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  • 0. Tuning Course READ ME FIRST !!!
  • We decided to try to make a lot of the material that was covered at the tuning class 4/20/13 + 4/21/13 available for all of our users. The material here is designed to be comprehensive. It is designed to be followed in a specific order. There will be links to more information on selected topics throughout. If you’re looking for a snippet about a particular thing, you may want to look at the “How Tuning Works” section instead, as it is more of a collection of small articles than a comprehensive course.  The idea with this course isn’t to tell you which value to change to make your car run right.  The idea is to teach you how engine management works so that you can look at something you’ve never seen before and (hopefully) have some clue as to how to approach getting it to do what you want.  This course is heavy on theory.  It’s also hopefully going to have lots of practical sections that connect with things you may be more familiar with from working with particular EFI systems.

    The material in this course represents *hours* (think: whole day+) worth of classroom lecture and discussion. Be prepared to spend an extended period of time reading through it and processing it. When you’re done, you’ll arguably be better prepared to tackle tuning than half the shops that practice on your car.

    Enjoy!

    (More will be coming soon as time permits.)

  • 1. Tuning Course: Introduction, Goals, Limitations
  • Tuning: Why bother?

    The rise of electronic engine management allows for the running conditions of an engine to be rapidly and precisely adjusted.  Before we talk about anything super technical, it’s worth examining some really basic stuff like, “why should we bother tuning a car in the first place?”  “What can we reasonably hope to accomplish?”

    Sometimes we start with an engine that’s running acceptably but we want to slightly change how it operates to achieve our goals.  Sometimes we start with an engine that doesn’t run at all because it is so different from the original system that was running that we have to tune it for it to run acceptably.  Regardless of whether adjustments are made out of necessity or desire, the answer to this “why bother” question is simple: in a word, it is OPTIMIZATION.  Tuning allows us to make the most out of the engine that we have.

    What Tuning ISN’T

    Tuning cars is often very misunderstood, especially by people who do not do it.  There is no magic involved.  You cannot wave a magic wand and violate the laws of physics in the name of making horsepower.  You are dealing with a computer system that responds to sensors in a predictable way.

    There is one golden rule (which I think has its origins in a completely different realm) which applies here:

    Garbage In, Garbage Out.

    As a tuner, you can only work with what you are given.   This may seem so obvious that it is a waste of time to even say it.  Trust me.  It isn’t.  It’s critical.  And at some point if you mess around with tuning vehicles long enough, you will get so focused on the knobs and buttons available to turn on your computer that you will forget about the mechanical system you are controlling.

    • Changing a computer program can’t fix mechanical issues.
    • Changing a computer program can’t fix electrical issues.
    • Changing a computer program can’t make more air enter an engine than it can mechanically pump
    • Changing a computer program can’t make more fuel flow through pumps/injectors than they can mechanically pump
    • Bottom line: You can’t make pigs fly by pushing buttons.  The physical motor you are working with will define what you do on the computer.

    Tuning Possibilities

    So if we are inherently limited by the physical engine that we are dealing with, what CAN we typically accomplish with tuning?

    Typically, we can:

    • Increase power / torque output of the engine
    • Increase efficiency / decrease fuel consumption
    • Decrease noxious emissions (Carbon Dioxide/CO2, hydrocarbons/HC, Carbon Monoxide/CO, Nitrous oxide/N2O, Nitrogen Oxides/NOx)
    • Control NVH (Noise – Vibration – Harshness)
    • Decrease stress on mechanical components / prevent damage to mechanical components
    • Many of these goals require different operating conditions making it impossible to do all of them at once! 

    Conclusion

    Tuning isn’t magic.  Modifying electronic engine control systems lets you get the most out of the physical system that you’re working with.  Through tuning, you can choose how to operate an engine in order to achieve the goals that are most important to you, making the compromises you want to make.  The goal of this course is going to be to teach you to use a calculator/simple math and data logging combined with an understanding of underlying processes to make targeted and appropriate changes in order to achieve the operating conditions you desire for your engine.

  • 2Timer
  • When using the 2Timer to switch between two 32k programs, you will want to program the chip directly (not through the 2Timer). Assuming you are using the 27SF512 chip, you can program two positions. 1) First, insert the 27SF512 chip into the BURN1 programmer and erase it followed by a blank check. 2) Load the first program from file to the buffer of the FlashBurn program. 3) For the first program (switch open to select), program the chip using chip addressing of 8000-FFFF, buffer addressing of 0000-7FFF. After the programming cycle, perform a verify step. 4) Load the second program from file to the buffer. 5) For the second program (switch wire grounded), use chip addressing 0000-7FFF and the same buffer addressing as before. Again, verify after this step. That's it! You can switch the wire to ground to select the 'lower' chip addressing location.

  • 2Timer Support
  • The 2Timer is a great tool used by anyone who needs multiple fuel maps one one chip. Good examples are those who run Nitrous, or typically run two different types of fuel. (I.E. Race Gas map vs. Pump Gas map)

    Creating a BIN for the 2Timer

    We get this question a lot, so we have decided to do a write-up to help people out. Let’s assume you have an easy situation and you are simply trying to create a Race Gas tune for your vehicle. We are also going to assume that you have both of your original BIN files in an easily accessible folder on your computer. For the sake of simplicity, lets say that both of these tunes were produced with CROME. So you should have 2 files, each of size 32,768 bytes, or 32KB for short. You need to combine these files into one 64KB file.

    Unfortunately, CROME does not have this capability. However TunerPro does.

    Download it here.

    There is a standalone module within TunerPro called the Bin Stacker.

    Tools->Bin Stacker/Splitter

    Within the Bin Stacker there are some rather Cryptic options:

    Bin Size: This is the size of the tune. Typically 32KB (for Hondas)

    Chip Size: This is the capacity of the chip. 64KB (assuming your using a SST 27SF512)

    Block Size: This is useful if you are putting two 16KB tunes on a 64K chip, but you need the second 16KB tune to start at the halfway point of the chip. Set the block size to 32KB and it will start writing the second tune at the 32KB mark. If you’re doing this on a Honda, select 32KB.

    For the 2Timer, Pos 1 is the default, and Pos 0 is the map that gets selected when you ground the wire coming out of the 2Timer unit.

    Using the Browse button you will be able to put your two tunes in their appropriate positions, and by clicking Stack you will be able to create 1 file that you can burn to a chip.

    Using the Flash N Burn software you will be able to burn this file to your SST 27SF512 chip.

    Alternate Procedure

    When using the 2Timer to switch between two 32k programs, you will want to program the chip directly (not through the 2Timer). Assuming you are using the 27SF512 chip, you can program two positions.

    1. First, insert the 27SF512 chip into the BURN1 programmer and erase it followed by a blank check.
    2. Load the first program from file to the buffer of the FlashBurn program.
    3. For the first program (switch open to select), program the chip using chip addressing of 8000-FFFF, buffer addressing of 0000-7FFF. After the programming cycle, perform a verify step.
    4. Load the second program from file to the buffer.
    5. For the second program (switch wire grounded), use chip addressing 0000-7FFF and the same buffer addressing as before. Again, verify after this step.  DO NOT ERASE THE CHIP BEFORE PROGRAMMING A SECOND TIME
    6. That’s it! You can switch the wire to ground to select the ‘lower’ chip addressing location.

    You may also want to consult the article on programming chips with offsets found here.

    How to Buy

    To purchase the 2Timer, please visit this item in our Online Store here

  • 84-87 Grand National 1226459 1227148
  • The 84-87 Grand National was a unique car available in limited production. These vehicles featured sequential injection, distributorless ignition systems and other groundbreaking features. A combination of unusual and off the shelf ECMs/electronic components make for some unique needs.

    These vehicles used two ECMs. 84-85 vehicles came equipped with the 1226459 and 86-87 vehicles came equipped with the 1227148.  These ECMs were used in a very select few other V6 vehicles of this generation with different programming for non-turbo applications.  It is possible to swap the 86-87 computers into the earlier vehicles.  Datalogging is improved with the later computers.

    The Grand Nationals have a cult following.  There is a lot of information to be found in general on www.gnttype.org and the chips/ECMs are covered especially here.

    Hardware Required for Tuning

    • The “early” 84-85 1226459 use the G2 *** 0.6″ *** Chip adapter
    • The “late” 86-87 1227148 use the G2 *** 0.45″ *** Chip adapter
    • To reprogram the ECM, both adapters accept a 28 pin EPROM like the C2 27SF512 chip.
    • WARNING: This is NOT plug and play!  Desoldering factory chip is required and soldering install for G2 adapter.  (view install)  Order the “Install Service” and send us your ECM if you’re not comfortable with soldering work.
    • After a chip adapter is installed, our “standard” OBD1 GM tools can be used:
      • BURN2 chip programmer programs chips
      • ALDU1+CABL1 cable allows laptop to log data with appropriate software
      • Ostrich 2 with SocketBooster allows real time tuning while vehicle is running
      • APU1 / AutoProm programs chips, logs data and allows realtime programming in one unit along with optional wideband logging.
      • TunerPro RT can be used with the $1D (84-85) or $31T /1227148Turbo (86-87) definitions for editing and logging
  • 85 Corvette TPI 1226870
  • Unfortunately, the 1226870 is an oddball one-year one-model ECM that was only used on the 1985 corvette.  It is for a TPI setup with an electronically controlled distributor and features 160 baud ALDL communication for logging.  It is a unique ECM.  There are no other ECMs that are a “plug and play” swap without extensive wiring changes. (see “ECM Conversions” below) The ECM uses a 24 pin 2732 EPROM.  A G2 0.6″ chip adapter (solder/desolder install) can be used to install a 28 pin chip or use any of our OBD1 GM tuning gear.

    No other masks from other ECMs can be trivially used.  It uses the $1F mask, which is supported by TunerPro RT.

    Hardware Required for Tuning

    • G2 Chip adapter and C2 27SF512 chip required to reprogram ECM.  WARNING: This is NOT plug and play!  Desoldering factory chip is required and soldering install for G2 adapter.  (view install)  Order the “Install Service” and send us your ECM if you’re not comfortable with soldering work.
    • BURN2 Chip Programmer programs 27SF512 chips
    • ALDU1 with CABL1 required for datalogging
    • Ostrich2 and SocketBooster 1.0 required for real time tuning
    • APU1 AutoPROM All-in-one device works great (without SocketBooster), taking the place of BURN2, ALDU1+CABL1 and Ostrich2
    • APU1 works great for the application and is the recommended hardware in addition to the G2.

    Software Required for Tuning

    These computers use the $1F mask from the factory.

    TunerPro RT + the $1F definitions works for editing and datalogging.  (this is the recommended software.  It is included with the AutoProm)  Additional/alternate definitions available from Gearhead-efi.com

    TunerCat OBD1 tuner with the $1F definition works for editing.

    WinALDL works for datalogging.

    ECM Conversions

    (disclaimer: blatant opinion) The 1226870 is not the high point of OBD1 GM engine management.  It is possible to swap to other ECMs which do better.

    1227165 (86-89 TPI MAF) swap

    1227730 (90-92 TPI MAP) swap

    12200411 (99-02 F body) swap

  • 86-88 Ford Fox Body Mustang / DA1 Speed density
  • Early Fox Body Mustangs used a speed-density metering system from 1986-1988.  Uses TFI distributor, 8 injectors, speed-density metering.  This EEC-IV system isn’t as well-supported as the MAF cars that followed but tools are available.  These ECMs have the hardware ID “SFI-SD1”

    Hardware for Tuning

    • QuarterHorse – integrated device brings unique functionality to the table.  It is a “chip on steroids” that allows you to make changes while the vehicle is running and (with supporting software) log live data from the vehicle.
    • F3 – simple chip module that can store one or two tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.  Requires Jaybird programmer or BURN2+FA.
    • F8 – fancy chip module that can store eight tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.   Can also be programmed while installed – no need to remove chip to reprogram it.  Requires Destiny programmer
    • BURN2 + FA + FE – generic chip programmer with Ford adapter (FA) and ECM interface (FE) that can be used to read the current program from EECIV and EECV ECMs on the bench.

    Software for Tuning

    Although several different strategies (or “operating systems”) were used on this generation of computer, all of them are capable of using the GUFB (i.e. A9L) code.  This can be downloaded with tuning software so it is not critical to read your own ECM.  This is a very common, well supported application.  Any of the three tuning softwares that we sell will work for this application.  Any tunes developed using a QuarterHorse can be programmed to F3/F8 chips for long term use

    • Binary Editor ($100 – $171 available from Moates.net) is a Ford-specific graphically oriented tuning software that supports many EEC-IV and EEC-V processors.  There are several options:
      • Free built-in definitions for BE2012 come with the software.  They’re reasonably complete and work really well.  Support DA1, DA2, etc.
      • Core Tuning definition (available through Coretuning.Net) – uses same standards for organization as other Core Tuning defs, very complete.
      • EEC Analyzer ($50 available from Moates.net) is an optional companion program to Binary Editor to assist with analyzing data and automating tuning tasks.
    • TunerPro RT ($40 / free trial available from Moates.net) is a universal tuning software that supports editing but not QH logging using definitions available on TunerPro’s website.
    • EEC Editor ($20 or $45 / available from Moates.net) has basic support for editing the DA1,DA2 mustang ECMs.  Datalogging support seems to be glitchy or non-functional as of April 2018.
  • 86-89 TPI GM Corvette, Firebird, Camaro 1227165 16198259
  • The 86-89 F and Y bodies were among the first EFI computers used by GM that featured a Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) for air metering.  P4 generation ECM, 160 or 8192 baud ALDL communication (depends on code mask), “memcal” with 27C128 EPROM.  Many of these ECMs feature a cold-start injector.  They can drive up to 8 injectors and a single coil with distributor.  There is no transmission shift control on these ECMs. The 1227165 and 16198259 ECMs can be used interchangeably.

    Hardware for Tuning

    • G1 Chip adapter and C2 27SF512 chip required to reprogram ECM
    • BURN2 Chip Programmer programs 27SF512 chips
    • ALDU1 with CABL1 required for datalogging
    • Ostrich2 required for real time tuning
    • APU1 AutoPROM All-in-one device programs chips, logs data and allows realtime tuning

    Software for Tuning

    These computers use different masks depending on the application.  $32, $32B and $6E are the most common masks.

    TunerPro RT + the $32, $32B and $6E definitions works for editing and datalogging. (included with APU1)

    TunerCat OBD1 tuner with the $32, $32B and $6E definitions works for editing. (we do not sell, available elsewhere)

    TTS Datamaster with the $32, $32B and $6E  definitions works for datalogging. (we do not sell, available elsewhere)

    Logging a Wideband Without an APU1

    One of our customers, Fred, was kind enough to email us with this information.  There is a modified bin available to allow logging a wideband with just an ALDU1 instead of requiring the analog inputs on the APU1.  This uses the MAT input to the ECM.  You can read more on thirdgen.org (and a thread on code patches to log 0-5V inputs)

    Recommended Purchase

    G1 + C2 + APU1 + Wideband

     

    Platform Notes

    While $32, $32B and $6E masks are found on these ECMs, it is highly recommended to start tuning with the $6E mask regardless of which mask the ECM/memcal originally used.  Using a chip with the $6E mask will override whatever was present from the factory.  The $6E mask does not use the 9th cold start injector and most importantly, speaks at “high speed” 8192 baud for logging, which is a HUGE improvement over the 160 baud logging used by the $32/32B masks.  Stock bins for various engines (305, 350, etc.) are available for download at the Gearhead-efi $6E information page.

    One of the common things that comes up is the idle change with logging on $6E.  It is hard-coded but can be poked with, just like anything.  This thread on thirdgen.org explains what you can do.

  • 86-92 GM TBI Trucks without elec. trans: 1227747
  • The 86 throttle body injection (TBI) system was the beginning of GM’s transition from carburetors to fuel injection.  This is the first of the “classic” speed-density computers which featured a MAP sensor for airflow metering.  This fundamental airflow model was used largely unaltered in later designs.  P3 generation ECM, 160 baud ALDL communication, 24 pin chip module with 27C32 UV-Erase EPROM.

    This ECM was used into the mid-90s in manual transmission equipped vehicles.  It was replaced with newer hardware when the 4l60e and 4L80e electronically-controlled transmissions were introduced.

    Hardware Required for Tuning

    • G2 Chip adapter and C2 27SF512 chip required to reprogram ECM.
    • WARNING: This is NOT plug and play!  Desoldering factory chip is required and soldering install for G2 adapter.  (view install)  Order the “Install Service” and send us your ECM if you’re not comfortable with soldering work.
    • BURN2 Chip Programmer programs 27SF512 chips
    • ALDU1 with CABL1 required for datalogging
    • Ostrich2 and SocketBooster 1.0 required for real time tuning
    • APU1 AutoPROM All-in-one device works great, taking the place of BURN2, ALDU1+CABL1 and Ostrich2
    • APU1 works great for the application and is the recommended hardware in addition to the G2.

    Software Required for Tuning

    These computers use the $42 mask from the factory.

    TunerPro RT + the $42 definitions works for editing and datalogging.  (this is the recommended software.  It is included with the AutoProm)

    TunerCat OBD1 tuner with the $42 definition works for editing.

    WinALDL works for datalogging.

  • 88-89 Fox Body V8 MAF oddballs: A9S / 8LD
  • The Fox Body Mustang switched to using a Mass Air Flow meter to measure airflow in 1988 in California.  Box codes “A9S” and “8LD” are known examples.  Uses TFI distributor, sequential injection for up to 8 injectors, MAF air metering.  This particular EEC-IV system became the blueprint for the popular A9L / GUFB used by the rest of the Fox body platform.  These early oddball ECMs are very similar to their A9L / A9P / etc. cousins but are just different enough that they require their own unique bin files and definitions.  It is trivially possible to swap a later A9L/A9P/etc. ECM into a car using a A9S/8LD or vise versa.

    These ECMs are known to have the hardware ID “SFI-MA2” and it is unknown which other hardware IDs can run the GUFA strategy.

    8LD labelonly

    Hardware for Tuning

    • QuarterHorse – integrated device brings unique functionality to the table.  It is a “chip on steroids” that allows you to make changes while the vehicle is running and (with supporting software) log live data from the vehicle.
    • F3 – simple chip module that can store one or two tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.  Requires Jaybird programmer or BURN2+FA.
    • BURN2 + FA + FE – generic chip programmer with Ford adapter (FA) and ECM interface (FE) that can be used to read the current program from EECIV and EECV ECMs on the bench.

    Software for Tuning

    Although similar to their cousins, these ECMs can only run the GUFA code which uses 32k binaries instead of 56k.  At this point, Binary Editor is the primary software which supports these ECMs.

    • Binary Editor ($100 – $171 available from Moates.net) is a Ford-specific graphically oriented tuning software that supports many EEC-IV and EEC-V processors.  There are several options for BE:
      • Free built-in definitions for BE2012 come with the software.  They’re reasonably complete and work really well.  Support GUFB (A9L, etc.) GUF1 (A9P, etc.) and GUFA (others) natively
      • Core Tuning definition (available through Coretuning.Net) – uses same standards for organization as other Core Tuning defs, very complete.
      • EEC Analyzer ($50 available from Moates.net) is an optional companion program to Binary Editor to assist with analyzing data and automating tuning tasks.

    Recommended Combos

    Just want to know what to buy?  All of these will be valid combos that will allow you to tune a vehicle effectively.

    (Ford Dealer Kit)

    (QuarterHorse AND Jaybird AND F3 AND Binary Editor WITH Dongle AND wideband)

    (Jaybird AND F3 AND Binary Editor )


  • 88-93 Holden VN + VP Commodore 1227808
  • The 88-93 VR Commodores use the 1227808 ECM which is basically the same as a US 1227165 ECM that is limited by hardware to 160 Baud communications.  These ECMs have torque converter lockup control as required for a 700R4 or similar automatic transmission.

    Hardware Required for Tuning

    • G1 Chip adapter and C2 27SF512 chip required to reprogram ECM
    • BURN2 Chip Programmer programs 27SF512 chips
    • ALDU1 with CABL1 required for datalogging
    • Ostrich2 required for real time tuning
    • APU1 AutoPROM All-in-one device works great, taking the place of BURN2, ALDU1+CABL1 and Ostrich2

    Software Required for Tuning

    These computers use the $5D, $A5, $B1, $DB, $FB or $03 masks.

    TunerPro RT has editing definitions on the website for $5D, $A5 and $FB

     PCMHacking.net appears to have datalogging definitions for TunerPro RT.

    TunerCat OBD1 tuner has editing definitions available for $5D, $A5, $B1, $DB and $FB

  • 89-93 Ford Fox Body Mustang 5.0: A9L / GUFB family
  • The Fox Body Mustang switched to using a Mass Air Flow meter to measure airflow in 1989.  Uses TFI distributor, sequential injection for up to 8 injectors, MAF air metering.  This EEC-IV system became the blueprint for future Ford systems (EECV and beyond) for years to come.  Initially hindered by a lack of datalogging capabilities, this platform has been able to truly shine with the help of Moates tuning tools.  These ECMs are known to have the hardware ID “SFI-MA12A” and it is unknown which other hardware IDs can run the GUFx strategies.

    Hardware for Tuning

    • QuarterHorse – integrated device brings unique functionality to the table.  It is a “chip on steroids” that allows you to make changes while the vehicle is running and (with supporting software) log live data from the vehicle.
    • F3 – simple chip module that can store one or two tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.  Requires Jaybird programmer or BURN2+FA.
    • F3v2 – simple chip module that can store 8 tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running using the switch module sold separately.
    • F8 – fancy chip module that can store eight tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.   Can also be programmed while installed – no need to remove chip to reprogram it.  Requires Destiny programmer
    • BURN2 + FA + FE – generic chip programmer with Ford adapter (FA) and ECM interface (FE) that can be used to read the current program from EECIV and EECV ECMs on the bench.

    Software for Tuning

    Although several different strategies (or “operating systems”) were used on this generation of computer, all of them are capable of using the GUFB (i.e. A9L) code.  All stock ECMs with the same processor code on the label have the same code inside the ECM which is typically downloaded with tuning software.  It is not critical to read your own ECM.  This is a very common, well supported application.  Any of the three tuning softwares that we sell will work for this application.  Any tunes developed using a QuarterHorse can be programmed to F3/F3v2/F8 chips for long term use

    • Binary Editor ($100 – $171 available from Moates.net) is a Ford-specific graphically oriented tuning software that supports many EEC-IV and EEC-V processors.  There are several options for BE:
      • Free built-in definitions for BE come with the software.  They’re reasonably complete and work really well.  Support GUFB (A9L, etc.) GUF1 (A9P, etc.) and GUFA (others) natively
      • Core Tuning definition ($extra available through Coretuning.Net) – uses same standards for organization as other Core Tuning defs, very complete.
      • EEC Analyzer ($50 available from Moates.net) is an optional companion program to Binary Editor to assist with analyzing data and automating tuning tasks.
    • TunerPro RT (fully functional free trial with nag screen / $39 to register available from Moates.net) is a universal tuning software that supports the GUFB strategy editing using definitions available on TunerPro’s website.
      • Definitions available elsewhere on support site only support GUFB (A9L) natively.  Auto cars can be tuned using GUFB by setting appropriate options in a GUFB bin file.
      • Alternative GUFX definitions available from decipha / EFI Dyno Tuning  support several extra features and code patches and are designed to work with the “A9L2” bin file
    • EEC Editor ($30 / $35 available from Moates.net) is a Ford-specific tuning software that supports both the GUFB, GUF1 and GUFA strategies
      • Reasonably complete editing definitions
      • Reasonably complete logging definitions
      • Does not run well on all computers.

    Recommended Combos

    Just want to know what to buy?  All of these will be valid combos that will allow you to tune a vehicle effectively.

    (Ford Dealer Kit)

    (QuarterHorse AND Jaybird AND F3 AND Binary Editor WITH Dongle AND Wideband)

    (QuarterHorse AND Jaybird AND F3 AND TunerPro RT AND Wideband)

    (Jaybird AND F3v2 AND TunerPro RT)

  • 90-92 Firebird, Camaro F Body: 1227730
  • The 90-92 Firebird and Camaro were the first of the P4 generation computers which featured a MAP sensor and speed-density for airflow metering.  These fundamental airflow models were used largely unaltered in later designs.  P4 generation ECM, 8192 baud ALDL communication, “memcal” with 27C256 EPROM.

    Hardware Required for Tuning

    • G1 Chip adapter and C2 27SF512 chip required to reprogram ECM
    • BURN2 Chip Programmer programs 27SF512 chips
    • ALDU1 with CABL1 required for datalogging
    • Ostrich2 required for real time tuning
    • APU1 AutoPROM All-in-one device works great, taking the place of BURN2, ALDU1+CABL1 and Ostrich2

    Software Required for Tuning

    These computers use the $8D mask from the factory.  There is a “Super $8D” mod that adds extra features beyond the stock $8D code.  It is also possible (and recommended) to run Code59 on the 1227730 for forced-induction applications.

    TunerPro RT + the $8D, Super$8D or Code59 definitions works for editing and datalogging.  (this is the recommended software.  It is included with the AutoProm)

    TunerCat OBD1 tuner with the $8D definition works for editing.

    TTS Datamaster with the $8D definition works for datalogging.

    Recommended Purchases

    Do it all: APU1 + G1 + a wideband ( LC1 MZTX-L LM2 single channel)

    Just burn chips/reprogram: BURN2 + G1 + C2

    Just log: ALDU1+CABL1

  • 91-93 GMC Syclone / Typhoon 1227749
  • The 91-93 Syclone trucks and Typhoon SUVs were a unique low-production vehicle that featured a powerful turbocharged 4.3L V6 engine.  They use the 1227749 ECM, which is most similar to the 1227730 used in the 90-92 TPI V8s.  These vehicles were equipped with a 2 bar MAP sensor from the factory along with hardware for controlling an intercooler pump and boost control solenoid.  There is no transmission shift control on these ECMs.  8192 baud datalogging, P4 generation ECM with memcal.

    Hardware for Tuning

    • G1 Chip adapter and C2 27SF512 chip required to reprogram ECM
    • G3 Chip adapter, C3 29F040 chip and Ex remote for multi-position chip for multiple tunes
    • BURN2 Chip Programmer programs 27SF512 chips
    • ALDU1 with CABL1 required for datalogging
    • Ostrich2 required for real time tuning
    • APU1 AutoPROM All-in-one device has complications with datalogging.  The APU1 is NOT recommended for the 1227749 ECM!!!  The combination of Ostrich, ALDU1+CABL1 and BURN2 is recommended.

    Software for Tuning

    These computers use the $58 mask supporting 2 Bar MAP sensors from the factory.  Numerous modifications were available to enable the use of a 3 bar MAP sensor including the “Ultimate Chip” and Code59.

    TunerPro RT + the $58 or Code59 definitions works for editing and datalogging.  (this is the recommended software.)

    TunerCat OBD1 tuner with the $58 definition works for editing.

    TTS Datamaster with the $58 definition works for datalogging.

    Custom ROMs may package their own definitions and require specific software support.

    Recommended Purchase

    G1 + C2 + BURN2 + Ostrich2 + ALDU1 w/CABL1 + Innovate MTX-L + TunerPro RT

  • 91-93 TBI Trucks with 4L80E transmission 16147060
  • This is one of the first electronically-shifted transmission applications.  Some 1991-93 vehicles came equipped with 4L80E transmissions and 16147060 PCMs.  This is a P4 generation ECM which speaks ALDL at 8192 baud and have removable “memcals.”  This was a one-year PCM which was followed by the 16168625 / 16197427 in later years.

    Hardware for Tuning

    • G1 Chip adapter and C2 27SF512 chip required to reprogram ECM
    • BURN2 Chip Programmer programs 27SF512 chips
    • ALDU1 with CABL1 required for datalogging
    • Ostrich2 required for real time tuning
    • APU1 AutoPROM All-in-one device works great, taking the place of BURN2, ALDU1+CABL1 and Ostrich2

    Software for Tuning

    These computers can be kind of tricky.  the $85 mask was the original but it was replaced with $D8.  You’ll need to read the memcal using a HDR1 to determine exactly which mask you have OR download a known starter bin to use from gearhead-efi or other sources.  Be warned: software support for this setup is not anywhere near as complete as the later $0D/$OE masks which followed.

    $85 information page on gearhead-efi

    $D8 information page on gearhead-efi

    TunerPro RT + definitions from gearhead-efi works for editing and datalogging.  (this is the recommended software.  It is included with the AutoProm)

    TunerCat OBD1 tuner with the appropriate definition works for editing.

    Recommended Hardware to Buy

    1. G1 + BURN2 + C2 = most basic
    2. G1 + BURN2 + C2 + ALDU1 w/ CABL1 = basic with logging capabilities
    3. G1 + APU1 = Chip tune / realtime tune / datalog – full capabilities
    4. G1 + APU1 + wideband = full capabilites with wideband logging
  • 92-93 Corvette / Camaro LT1 16159278
  • The 1993 Camaro / Corvette LT1 PCM 16159278 is an oddball.  It was not used before or since.  The $DA2 mask was used in Y-body Corvettes and the $DA3 mask was used in F-body Camaro/Firebirds.

    Hardware for Tuning

    • G1 Chip adapter and C2 27SF512 chip required to reprogram ECM
    • BURN2 Chip Programmer programs 27SF512 chips
    • ALDU1 with CABL1 required for datalogging
    • Ostrich2 required for real time tuning
    • APU1 AutoPROM All-in-one device works on some vehicles but many have issues datalogging reliably.  This is NOT recommended for this platform, please buy BURN2/Ostrich2/ALDU1 instead.  Using an ALDU1 in addition to the APU1 solves any issues, if you already have an APU1 on hand.  Temporarily pulling the fuse for the CCM while tuning the ECM may also help.

    Software for Tuning

    These computers use the $DA2 or DA3 masks from the factory.  The $DA2 mask was used in Y-body Corvettes and the $DA3 mask was used in F-body Camaro/Firebirds.

    TunerPro RT + the $DA2 or $DA3 definitions works for editing and datalogging.    (It is included with the AutoProm)

    TunerCat OBD1 tuner with the appropriate definition works for editing.

    TTS Datamaster with the appropriate definition works for datalogging. (this is the recommended software)

    Recommended Hardware to Buy

    1. G1 + BURN2 + C2 = most basic
    2. G1 + BURN2 + C2 + ALDU1 w/ CABL1 = basic with logging capabilities
    3. G1 + BURN2 + C2 + ALDU1 w/ CABL1  + Ostrich2 = Chip tune / realtime tune / datalog – full capabilities
  • 92-95 Civic and 93-95 Integra 37820-P05 P06 P08 P28 P29 P30 P72 P74 P75 PR4
  • If you are too lazy to read this whole page, you can skip to the “Recommended Combos” section at the end for a shopping list without any explanation.

    92-95 Civic and 92-95 Integras are a common hardware platform – there is no sense in addressing specific vehicle or ECU models.  These ECUs are also a more or less plug-n-play substitute for 92-95 Accord and Prelude computers, which have not been figured out to the same extent.  96-00/01 OBD2 vehicles can also use ECUs on this page with an OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness.

    Once chipped, these ECUs have many hardware options for tuning ranging from simple chip tuning to realtime options with integrated logging.  To learn about the different options, see “Tuning Hardware” below.

    While there are differences between OBD1 Civic and Integra ECUs (Vtec vs. non-Vtec, manual vs. automatic, 1wire vs. 4wire O2 vs. 5wire wideband, power steering vs no PS, etc.) it is possible to convert any ECU that is a member of the “family” into any other ECU by a combination of modifications to the the circuitry in terms of adding and removing parts along with chipping the ECU to change its program.  The only “oddballs” are the 92-95 Civic VX P07 (which came from the factory with a wideband and was heavily optimized for fuel economy) and the 94-95 JDM GSR Automatic P72 (which is more like a OBD2 ECU inside.   Manual P72 ECUs are ok).  To find out more about various kits for converting ECUs or adding features see “ECU Modification Hardware” below.

    The firmware of these ECUs has been hacked apart.  There are several software tools available for tuning this platform.  Many software tools extend the original capabilities of the factory computer, allowing forced induction, ITBs and larger injectors to be calibrated.  For more information about the software tools available, see “Software Options” below.

    Tuning Hardware

    • Honda Chip Kit allows ECUs to be chipped
    • BURN2 programs C2 27SF512 chips which can be installed in chipped ECUs
    • Ostrich2 allows realtime tuning in chipped ECUs
    • Xtreme HULOG allows logging of data from ECUs suitably equipped
    • Demon1 allows realtime tuning (like Ostrich) logging (like HULOG) and also has onboard memory for recording datalogs without a laptop connected.  Honda Chip Kit is included.  Supports both JDM and USDM ECUs
    • Demon2 is an evolution of the Demon1 with non-volatile memory for program storage, more onboard memory and different connection options.  Honda Chip Kit is included.  Supports only USDM ECUs
    • Demon+Neptune combo is a Demon1/2 bundled with a license for NeptuneRTP software
    • Neptune License allows Demon users to upgrade to Neptune RTP software
    • Honda Tuning kit bundles a Honda Chip Kit, BURN2, Ostrich2, HULOG together
    • Engine Sim generates signals like an engine to allow testing of ECUs on bench

    ECU Modification Hardware

    • Honda Chip Kit allows ECUs to be chipped
    • VTEC-1720 kit allows non-vtec ECUs with 1720 motherboard to be converted to run Vtec engines
    • VTEC-11F0 kit allows non-vtec ECUs with 11F0 motherboard to be converted to run Vtec engines
    • VTEC-1980 kit allows non-vtec ECUs with 1980 motherboard to be converted to run Vtec engines
    • PWM components kit adds the ability to control a boost control solenoid with supported software
    • Bluetooth modules allow wireless communication between laptops/smartphones and your ECU (Software support required for optimal operation.  Many applications that work with a HULOG will NOT run smoothly without modification)

    Software Options

    Looking at software options for this platform that work with our hardware, there are basically two choices:

    • Neptune – mature, stable, feature packed, well documented, bug-free
    • CROME – unstable, less features, non-existent documentation, lots of bugs

    Neptune RTP is the version of Neptune we sell.  We HIGHLY recommend this option.  When you buy a Neptune License, it is married to a specific Demon hardware unit (Demon+Neptune package – $395), the license is paired with the Demon hardware unit.  You can use it on whichever laptops you want, but only hardware that has been licensed.  Neptune RTP allows you to tune, datalog and also set up onboard logging, i.e. logging without a laptop.  Advanced features ranging from wideband closed-loop to programmable output control for nitrous or otherwise are supported.  Multiple tunes can be selected.  Alpha-N (TPS maps) are possible for ITBs or large cam cars.  Boost control via PWM solenoid or multiple stages of solenoids is possible.  Neptune is mature, relatively easy to use, well-documented, feature rich, works as documented and relatively bug free.  TL;DR: You get what you pay for.   More info can be found by looking at a demo version of the software which can be found here.

    We do NOT sell the dealer version of Neptune.  You can contact info@hrtuning.com for more information on this.

    CROME comes in several versions.

    • The free version of CROME supports editing bins ONLY.  There is no logging.  There is no “Gold” ROM support.
    • The Pro version of CROME (available from Xenocron.com, $150) supports editing bins AND datalogging.  The “Gold” ROM can be used on a restricted basis.  This is intended for individual use only but the license is widely abused.
    • The Dealer version of CROME (available direct from CROME’s author only, $450?) supports editing bins AND datalogging.  It has full support for the “Gold” ROM.  Commercial users are meant to use this version.

    CROME is a semi-community supported application.  (i.e. get your help on pgmfi.org) The software package itself is free to use for editing bins but any logging requires a paid version.  The “Pro” version intended for single user use is widely abused for tuning multiple cars.  CROME does NOT support the onboard logging or extra channels present on the Demon hardware.  CROME Pro/dealer will work with either the Demon as a in unit or with the Ostrich, BURN2 and HULog for chip-burning operation.  There is no documentation for CROME, aside from what is available from the community.  There are many things that are not working properly and tons that are mislabeled or misrepresented – individual cylinder trims, startup enrichment corrections and vtec pressure code elimination (among others) are all problematic as of February 2015.  CROME is the cheapest way to get into tuning Hondas but it hasn’t kept up with the support and features offered by Neptune.  We do NOT sell CROME – you can purchase Crome Pro from xenocron.com or CROME Dealer from tunewithcrome.com

    Recommended Combos

    For the end user looking to tune their own car with ease, there is only one good choice: the Demon+Neptune kit offers a comprehensive package of everything required to chip and tune an OBD1 Honda ECU in a convenient package.  The best hardware and best software combine to provide the best tuning option, hands down.  But it’s not cheap if you’re looking to do a fleet of vehicles.

    For the aspiring t00ner on a budget looking to tune every car in their neighborhood, there is only one good choice: the Honda Tuning Kit paired with a CROME Pro/Dealer license sold elsewhere and a dozen Honda Chip Kits.  No other option will let you tune as many cars for the money.

    Combos to Avoid

    The Demon is only fully supported by Neptune RTP.  You can purchase an Ostrich and HULOG for less than the price of a Demon.  It does not make sense to buy a Demon if you are planning to use CROME.

    The Honda Tuning Kit, BURN2 and Ostrich2 are NOT supported by NeptuneRTP.  In order to use these devices with Neptune, you must sign up as a dealer for Neptune – something we do not get involved with.

  • 92-95 TBI Trucks with 4L60E and 4L80E transmissions 16197427 16196395 16156930 16168625
  • Starting around 1992, GM started putting the newer electronically controlled 4L60E and 4L80E transmissions in their trucks.  Along with the electronically controlled transmissions came new ECMs that speak ALDL at 8192 baud and have removable “memcals” – 16197427, 16196395, 16156930, 16168625.  These ECMs are largely interchangeable – as a rule of thumb, any of the 4 hardware boxes ( 16197427, 16196395, 16156930, 16168625 ) can run any of the 4 main masks ( $0D, $0E, $31 or $E6 ) BUT you will have issues using a V6 memcal for a V8 application or vise versa.  Your memcal MUST be from a vehicle that has the same number of cylinders as the engine you are trying to run.

    You can also use these PCMs for standalone transmission controllers.

    Hardware for Tuning

    • G1 Chip adapter and C2 27SF512 chip required to reprogram ECM
    • BURN2 Chip Programmer programs 27SF512 chips
    • ALDU1 with CABL1 required for datalogging
    • Ostrich2 required for real time tuning
    • APU1 AutoPROM All-in-one device works great, taking the place of BURN2, ALDU1+CABL1 and Ostrich2

    Software for Tuning

    These computers use the $0D, $0E, $31 or $E6 masks from the factory.  The $0D and $E6 are generally found on 4L60E trucks.  The $31 and $0E are generally found on 4L80E equipped trucks.

    TunerPro RT + the $0D, $0E, $31 or $E6 definitions works for editing and datalogging.  (this is the recommended software.  It is included with the AutoProm)

    TunerCat OBD1 tuner with the appropriate definition works for editing.

    TTS Datamaster with the appropriate definition works for datalogging.

    Recommended Hardware to Buy

    1. G1 + BURN2 + C2 = most basic
    2. G1 + BURN2 + C2 + ALDU1 w/ CABL1 = basic with logging capabilities
    3. G1 + APU1 = Chip tune / realtime tune / datalog – full capabilities
    4. G1 + APU1 + MTX-L = full capabilites with wideband logging
  • 93-95 Holden VR Commodore 16176424 16183082 16195699
  • The 93-95 VR Commodores  use several different ECMs that fortunately use the same tools for tuning.  These ECMs feature electronically controlled automatic transmissions ( 4L60E ) as well as engine control.

    Hardware Required for Tuning

    • G1 Chip adapter and C2 27SF512 chip required to reprogram ECM
    • BURN2 Chip Programmer programs 27SF512 chips
    • ALDU1 with CABL1 required for datalogging
    • Ostrich2 required for real time tuning
    • APU1 AutoPROM All-in-one device works great, taking the place of BURN2, ALDU1+CABL1 and Ostrich2

    Software Required for Tuning

    These computers use the $11 mask for automatic transmission vehicles or $12 mask for manual transmissions.  $2A is also seen for LPG and $3D for Holden HSV.

    TunerPro RT has editing definitions on the website.

     PCMHacking.net appears to have datalogging definitions for TunerPro RT.

    TunerCat OBD1 tuner has editing definitions available.

  • 94-95 (ish) Mass-Air trucks with 4R70W Electronic Transmission CBAZ0 Strategy
  • Some 94-95 Trucks (mostly F150) came equipped with a 4R70W automatic transmission.  Most of the heavier-duty trucks came with AOD-E transmissions and use incompatible ECMs.  These ECMs feature sequential fuel injection, a distributor for spark delivery, Mass-air flow (MAF) sensors for air metering and most importantly are set up to control a 4R70W electronically-controlled automatic transmission.  These ECMs can be used to run the combination of a pushrod V8 and 4R70W.   Ideal for those wanting to run a mode modern electronically controlled automatic transmission instead of an AOD with a pushrod engine.  With little more than programming, they can use used to run everything from a 460cid big block (or larger) to a simple 302 or a 5.8L Windsor engine.  All of the ECMs in the name of this article use the CBAz0 strategy/operating system, all run 4R70W transmissions and can be considered functionally equivalent for tuning.

    BUG0

    BUG2

    GET0

    GLO0

    GLO2

    HUG0

    HUG2

    JAB1

    L4J1

    P5X0


    Hardware for Tuning

    • QuarterHorse – integrated device brings unique functionality to the table.  It is a “chip on steroids” that allows you to make changes while the vehicle is running and (with supporting software) log live data from the vehicle.  Any tunes developed using a QuarterHorse can be programmed to F3/F8 chips for long term use. (please keep reading below!)
    • F3 – simple chip module that can store one or two tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.  Requires Jaybird programmer or BURN2+FA.
    • F8 – fancy chip module that can store eight tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.   Can also be programmed while installed – no need to remove chip to reprogram it.  Requires Destiny programmer
    • BURN2 + FA + FE – generic chip programmer with Ford adapter (FA) and ECM interface (FE) that can be used to read the current program from EECIV and EECV ECMs on the bench.

    Software for Tuning

    The CBAZ0 strategy is used on these ECMs.

    • Core Tuning definition (available through Coretuning.Net or ben@coretuning.net ) – uses same standards for organization as other Core Tuning defs, very complete, includes full datalogging. Approximately $495 INCLUDES QuarterHorse hardware!!!
    • Binary Editor ($100 / $171 available through Moates.net) combined with Derek Fenwick’s CBAZ0 definition ($25, contact him directly to obtain) supports these ECMs.  Usually complete and extremely functional.
    • EEC Editor ($20 edit / $25 log available from Moates.net) has basic editing support for the these ECMs.  EEC Editor is a basic application for tuning Fords.  Logging support is experimental.

    Recommended Combinations

    Looking at what’s available, there are 3 recommended combinations:

    1. EEC Editor ($20) w/ WAY1 def, Jaybird ($75), F3 ($60)
      Option 1 gives you the cheapest way to tune your EC<.  You will NOT have logging – just editing.  You will NOT have realtime tuning – you’ll have to shut down, program chip, reinstall chip each time.  EEC Editor is a very basic application without many graphics or frills but it’s mostly functional as an editor.  (you can download it and check it out from the Tuning Software section of our website)
    2. QuarterHorse tuning package from Core Tuning definition ($495) and optionally Jaybird+F3($75+$75). Core Tuning provides a “one stop” shop experience, directly through them.  Their definitions are generally really well laid out, well defined and have a large selection of parameters to choose from.  They’re a US company with great support.  Again, chip tuning hardware is optional but recommended.
    3. QuarterHorse ($249), Binary Editor ($100) with Derek Fenwick definition ($25) and optionally dongle for BE ($+71) and optionally Jaybird+F3($75+$75)  Binary Editor is better software.  Derek generally makes very good definitions.  The combination of QH + BE + Def is going to give you realtime tuning while the vehicle is running AND datalogging to see engine and transmission parameters.  It’s still a good idea to have a chip for long-term use but chip tuning hardware is optional, at least from a getting started perspective.
  • 94-95 (ish) Mass-Air trucks with E40D Electronic Transmission AHACA Strategy
  • 94-95 MAF Trucks are an interesting breed.  They feature sequential fuel injection, a distributor for spark delivery, Mass-air flow (MAF) sensors for air metering and most importantly are set up to control an E4OD electronically-controlled automatic transmission.  Aside from their original application, these ECMs are commonly used for speed density->MAF conversions on speed density trucks and Broncos that had E4OD transmissions.   With little more than programming, they can use used to run everything from a 460cid big block (or larger) to a simple 302 or a 5.8L Windsor engine.  All of the ECMs in the name of this article use the AHACA strategy/operating system, all run E4OD transmissions and can be considered functionally equivalent for tuning.  All use the SMD-272 hardware type.

    BIO0 (F5TF-12A650-BYA) AHACA
    AKC0 (F8TF-12A650-NA) AHACA
    RAN2 (F5TF-12A650-AEC)
    MOB1
    MOB0

    Hardware for Tuning

    • QuarterHorse – integrated device brings unique functionality to the table.  It is a “chip on steroids” that allows you to make changes while the vehicle is running and (with supporting software) log live data from the vehicle.  Any tunes developed using a QuarterHorse can be programmed to F3/F8 chips for long term use. (please keep reading below!)
    • F3 – simple chip module that can store one or two tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.  Requires Jaybird programmer or BURN2+FA.
    • F8 – fancy chip module that can store eight tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.   Can also be programmed while installed – no need to remove chip to reprogram it.  Requires Destiny programmer
    • BURN2 + FA + FE – generic chip programmer with Ford adapter (FA) and ECM interface (FE) that can be used to read the current program from EECIV and EECV ECMs on the bench.

    Software for Tuning

    The AHACA strategy is used on these ECMs.

    • Core Tuning definition (available through Coretuning.Net or ben@coretuning.net ) – uses same standards for organization as other Core Tuning defs, very complete, includes full datalogging. Approximately $495 INCLUDES QuarterHorse hardware!!!
    • EEC Editor ($20 available from Moates.net) has basic editing support for the these ECMs.  EEC Editor is a basic application for tuning Fords.  There is no logging support at this time. (1/2015)

    Recommended Combinations

    Looking at what’s available, there are 2 combinations that make sense:

    1. EEC Editor ($20) w/ WAY1 def, Jaybird ($75), F3 ($60)
      Option 1 gives you the cheapest way to tune your ECM.  You will NOT have logging – just editing.  You will NOT have realtime tuning – you’ll have to shut down, program chip, reinstall chip each time.  EEC Editor is a very basic application without many graphics or frills but it’s mostly functional as an editor.  (you can download it and check it out from the Tuning Software section of our website)
    2. QuarterHorse tuning package from Core Tuning definition ($495) and optionally Jaybird+F3. Core Tuning provides a “one stop” shop experience, directly through them.  Their definitions are generally really well laid out, well defined and have a large selection of parameters to choose from.  They’re a US company with great support.  Again, chip tuning hardware is optional but recommended.
  • 94-95 (ish) Mass-Air trucks with E40D Electronic Transmission VEX1 WAY1 HOG0 U4X0 TIP1
  • 94-95 MAF Trucks are an interesting breed.  They feature sequential fuel injection, a distributor for spark delivery, Mass-air flow (MAF) sensors for air metering and most importantly are set up to control an E4OD electronically-controlled automatic transmission.  Aside from their original application, these ECMs are commonly used for speed density->MAF conversions on speed density trucks and Broncos that had E4OD transmissions.   With little more than programming, they can use used to run everything from a 460cid big block (or larger) to a simple 302 or a 5.8L Windsor engine.  All of the ECMs in the name of this article use the same strategy/operating system, all run E4OD transmissions and can be considered functionally equivalent for tuning.   VEX1 / WAY1 / AHACB strategy depending on the vendor.  (different names for same thing)  The ECMs all use the “SMD-221” hardware type. Some processor codes / hardware IDs:

    HOG0 (F4TF-12A650-AAA) VEX1/AHACB
    TIP1 (F5TF-12A650-GB) TIP1/AHACB
    IVY0 (F4TF-12A650-ABA) VEX1/AHACB
    U4X0 (F4PF-12A650-AA) VEX1/AHACB
    VEX1 (F5TF-12A650-HB) VEX1/AHACB
    WAY1 (F5TF-12A650-JB) VEX1/AHACB

    Hardware for Tuning

    • QuarterHorse – integrated device brings unique functionality to the table.  It is a “chip on steroids” that allows you to make changes while the vehicle is running and (with supporting software) log live data from the vehicle.  Any tunes developed using a QuarterHorse can be programmed to F3/F8 chips for long term use.
    • F3 – simple chip module that can store one or two tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.  Requires Jaybird programmer or BURN2+FA.
    • F8 – fancy chip module that can store eight tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.   Can also be programmed while installed – no need to remove chip to reprogram it.  Requires Destiny programmer
    • BURN2 + FA + FE – generic chip programmer with Ford adapter (FA) and ECM interface (FE) that can be used to read the current program from EECIV and EECV ECMs on the bench.

    Software for Tuning

    The AHACB strategy is used on these ECMs.  Both Binary Editor and EEC Editor support editing this strategy.  Only Binary Editor supports datalogging at this time.  It does not make sense to buy a QuarterHorse unless you’re also willing to buy Binary Editor and one of the available strategies for it.

    • Binary Editor ($100 – $171 available from Moates.net) is a Ford-specific graphically oriented tuning software that supports many EEC-IV and EEC-V processors.  There are several options for BE2012:
      • EEC Analyzer ($50 available from Moates.net) is an optional companion program to Binary Editor to assist with analyzing data and automating tuning tasks.
      • The optional dongle for Binary Editor allows you to use the software on more than one laptop instead of being locked to a single machine.($+71)
      • Core Tuning definition (available through Coretuning.Net or ben@coretuning.net ) – uses same standards for organization as other Core Tuning defs, very complete, includes full datalogging.
      • Derek Fenwick’s AHACB definition ($25, contact him ) supports these ECMs.  Usually complete and extremely functional.
    • EEC Editor ($20 available from Moates.net) has basic editing support for the these ECMs.  EEC Editor is a basic application for tuning Fords.  There is no logging support at this time. (1/2015)

    Recommended Combinations

    Looking at what’s available, there are 3 1/2 combinations that make sense:

    1. EEC Editor ($20) w/ WAY1 def, Jaybird ($75), F3 ($60)
      Option 1 gives you the cheapest way to tune your EC<.  You will NOT have logging – just editing.  You will NOT have realtime tuning – you’ll have to shut down, program chip, reinstall chip each time.  EEC Editor is a very basic application without many graphics or frills but it’s mostly functional as an editor.  (you can download it and check it out from the Tuning Software section of our website)
    2.  QuarterHorse ($249), Binary Editor ($100) with Derek Fenwick definition ($25) and optionally dongle for BE ($+71) and optionally Jaybird+F3
      Binary Editor is better software.  Derek generally makes very good definitions.  The combination of QH + BE + Def is going to give you realtime tuning while the vehicle is running AND datalogging to see engine and transmission parameters.  It’s still a good idea to have a chip for long-term use but chip tuning hardware is optional, at least from a getting started perspective.
    3. QuarterHorse tuning package from Core Tuning definition ($495) and optionally Jaybird+F3
      Option 3 is somewhat similar to #2 except Core Tuning provides a “one stop” shop experience, directly through them.  Their definitions are generally really well laid out, well defined and have a large selection of parameters to choose from.  They’re a US company with great support.  Again, chip tuning hardware is optional but recommended.

    Note: I’ve not seen either Derek nor Core’s defs personally so I can’t give you a meaningful comparison between the two.

    The “half combo” I refer to is including the chipping tools (Jaybird+F3) as well as the QH in #2 and #3 above.

  • 94-95 LT1 Corvette, Camaro, Firebird 16188051 16181333
  • The 94-95 F and Y bodies are a dramatically different breed of PCM compared to earlier models used by GM.  They are primarily tuned by reflash using the ALDL protocol over the diagnostic port, NOT by programming and replacing chips.  (Although this is possible – they feature two 28F512 PLCC EPROMs)  They speak ALDL for datalogging at 8192 baud.  They are MAP sensor based.

    BEWARE: these vehicles came with both the rectangular OBD1 style ALDL connectors AND the D-shaped “OBD2” connector, depending on their build date.  Make sure you check to see which connector your car has before ordering.  ( pictures )

    BEWARE: these ECUs are notorious for “bricking,” or being killed by a bad flash program.  Please ensure that there is adequate battery voltage at all times.  It is a good idea to put a charger on the vehicle while programming as a drop in voltage for one second (fan kicking on, headlights, turn signals, subwoofer, etc.) can be enough to kill the ECM.  We do NOT rebuild bricked ECUs!

    Hardware for Tuning

    • ALDU1 with CABL1 or CABL2 depending on build date to reprogram ECM and log data
    • APU1 AutoPROM with CABL1 or CABL2 All-in-one device works in pass through mode.  Advanced features of the APU1 including emulation and wideband datalogging are not trivially possible on this platform.
    • It is a good idea to use a 12V battery charger, available elsewhere.

    Software for Tuning

    These computers use the $EE mask.

    TunerPro RT + the $EE definitions works for editing bins and datalogging.  TunerPro can log data.  TunerPro can edit bins.  TunerPro CANNOT read or flash ECMs.

    TunerCat OBD1 Tuner with the $EE Definition works for editing bins.  TunerCat OBD1 Tuner can read and flash ECMs and edit bins but not log data.

    TunerCat DataCat (Formerly TTS Datamaster) works for logging data but cannot read, flash or edit.

    TunerCat WinFlash can be used for the actual work of flashing and reading ECMs but will not log or edit.

    Madtuner.com offer an alternative flash program which can be used for the actual work of flashing and reading ECMs but will not log or edit.

    There is also another $EE hack site that provides improved XDFs to work with TunerPro.

    So… There is NOT a single software package that does everything you need.  There are choices and you will need a combination of software packages to be able to read, program, edit and log.

  • 94-95 Mustang 302 V8: CBAZA / T4M0 / W4H0 / etc.
  • These processors use a TFI distributor, sequential injection for up to 8 injectors, MAF air metering and an electronically controlled AOD-E 4 speed automatic transmission or Tremec 5 speed manual.  This EEC-IV system became the blueprint for future Ford systems (EECV and beyond) for years to come.  The 94 Mustang with its CBAZA strategy is arguably the first “modern” Ford processor, at least in the sense that the same thinking and algorithms for fueling, spark and transmission control are used to the present day.  Initially hindered by a lack of datalogging capabilities, this platform has been able to truly shine with the help of Moates tuning tools.

    Hardware for Tuning

    • QuarterHorse – integrated device brings unique functionality to the table.  It is a “chip on steroids” that allows you to make changes while the vehicle is running and (with supporting software) log live data from the vehicle.
    • F3 – simple chip module that can store one or two tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.  Requires Jaybird programmer or BURN2+FA.
    • F8 – fancy chip module that can store eight tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.   Can also be programmed while installed – no need to remove chip to reprogram it.  Requires Destiny programmer
    • BURN2 + FA + FE – generic chip programmer with Ford adapter (FA) and ECM interface (FE) that can be used to read the current program from EECIV and EECV ECMs on the bench.

    Software for Tuning

    CBAZA is the strategy used by 94-95 V8 Mustangs, both automatic and manual transmission.  Base bin files from stock vehicles can be downloaded with tuning software so it is not critical to read your own ECM.  Most definitions support full transmission control in addition to allowing engine parameters to be modified.  This is a very common, established, well supported application.  Any of the three tuning softwares that we sell will work for this application.  Any tunes developed using a QuarterHorse can be programmed to F3/F8 chips for long term use.

    • Binary Editor 2012 is a Ford-specific graphically oriented tuning software that supports many EEC-IV and EEC-V processors.  The CBAZA strategy has full editing and logging support using the QuarterHorse.  There are both free and pay versions of the CBAZA strategy.
    • TunerPro RT is a universal tuning software that supports the CBAZA strategy with full QuarterHorse editing and logging using the definitions on this site.
    • EEC Editor is a Ford-specific tuning software that supports the CBAZA strategy with full QuarterHorse editing and logging.

    Recommended Combos

    Just want to know what to buy?  All of these will be valid combos that will allow you to tune a vehicle effectively.

    (Ford Dealer Kit)

    (QuarterHorse AND Jaybird AND F3 AND Binary Editor 2012 AND Innovate MTX wideband AND Keyspan USB->Serial)

    (QuarterHorse AND Jaybird AND F3 AND TunerPro RT AND Innovate MTX wideband)

  • 96-97 Corvette, Camaro, Firebird, Impala, Caprice, etc.16214399 and 16242921
  • Hardware and Software for Tuning

    • TunerCat RRTuner OBD2
    • TunerCat WinFlash software

    The only package capable of tuning these vehicles available from Moates is the TunerCat OBD2 tuner suite with WinFlash and cable.  This package is NOT a complete tuning solution as there is NO DATALOGGING!!!  You will need a 3rd party logging tool, such as EFI Live Scan or a GM Tech2 scan tool, to have a workable tuning solution.  This is *NOT* recommended as a first purchase – it is difficult to use compared to other tools and is aimed at an experienced tuner.

    Alternatives / Discussion

    It will cost about $900 to get into the TunerCat OBD2 package.  There are worthwhile alternatives:

    • Convert to a 94-95 ECM that is well-supported by TunerCATS OBD1.  This will require an ALDU1+CABL2 comboTunerCATS OBD1 tuner ($69.95) with a single definition file ($EE – $19.95) **OR** TunerCats WinFLash and TunerPro RT with the $EE definition, along with a new 94-95 ECM.  This may involve minor wiring changes.  Arguably the most simple and straightforward option.  Preserves all engine sensors, distributor, etc.  This option will work for LTx engines ONLY.  96-97 Vortecs must use another option.
    • Convert to a 98+ ECM that is well-supported by EFI Live.  This will involve more substantial wiring changes and a supported 98+ ECM.  This will involve a 24x reluctor conversion kit. (See here for more information.)  This is *NOT EASY OR SIMPLE* but arguably provides the best solution because quality, trusted LSx electronics replace many problematic parts on the earlier engines such as replacing  the Optispark system with coil-near-plug as found on the LSx.
  • 96-97 Mustang 3.8L, 4.6L 2V GT, 4.6L 4V Cobra, Town Car, Thunderbird, etc.: CDAN4 Strategy
  • These processors use EDIS coil packs backed by a 36-1 crank trigger wheel, sequential injection for up to 8 injectors, MAF air metering and an electronically controlled 4R70W 4 speed automatic transmission or Tremec 5 speed manual.  These mod motor ECMs speak the standard OBD2 which opens up options for logging using a standard scantool over the diagnostic port.  The CDAN4 strategy used by these processors was used to run almost all RWD engines offered by Ford in 1996 and 1997 – 3.8L V6 in Thunderbird and mustang base model, 4.6L 2V V8 in Mustang GT, Town car, grand marquis, thunderbird, 4.6L 4V in Mustang Cobra.

    Hardware for Tuning

    • QuarterHorse – integrated device brings unique functionality to the table.  It is a “chip on steroids” that allows you to make changes while the vehicle is running and (with supporting software) log live data from the vehicle.
    • F3 – simple chip module that can store one or two tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.  Requires Jaybird programmer or BURN2+FA.
    • F8 – fancy chip module that can store eight tunes and switch between them while vehicle is running.   Can also be programmed while installed – no need to remove chip to reprogram it.  Requires Destiny programmer
    • BURN2 + FA + FE – generic chip programmer with Ford adapter (FA) and ECM interface (FE) that can be used to read the current program from EECIV and EECV ECMs on the bench.

    Software for Tuning

    The CDAN4 strategy is very common in 96-97 vehicles as it is used on almost all of the RWD platform, both automatic and manual transmission.  Many base bin files for stock vehicles can be downloaded with tuning software, but there are a lot of applications where bin files are not available.  Plan on using the QuarterHorse or BURN2+FA+FE to read your own ECM.  Any of the three tuning softwares that we sell will work for this application.  Any tunes developed using a QuarterHorse can be programmed to F3/F8 chips for long term use.  Definitions for this platform vary in quality a TON!!!  Some support full automatic transmission control in addition to allowing engine parameters to be modified.  Some barely have the basics of engine operation.

    • Binary Editor 2012 ($100 – $171 available from Moates.net) is a Ford-specific graphically oriented tuning software that supports many EEC-IV and EEC-V processors.  There are several definition options for BE2012:
      • Core Tuning Definition ($195 available through Coretuning.net) – comprehensive definition with editing of engine and transmission parameters and full datalogging with QH.
      • Dex’s definition ($25 email sailorbob@uk2.net) – I haven’t seen this in order to review it, although Dex’s stuff is generally very, very good.
    • EEC Analyzer ($50 available from Moates.net) is an optional companion program to Binary Editor to assist with analyzing data and automating tuning tasks.
    • TunerPro RT ($30 / free available from Moates.net) is a universal tuning software that supports the CDAN4 strategy editing using definitions available on TunerPro’s website. 
      • The available definition does NOT have datalogging support.  Comprehensiveness questionable.
    • EEC Editor ($30 / $35 available from Moates.net) is a Ford-specific tuning software that supports the CDAN4 strategy with full QuarterHorse editing and logging.  
      • Datalogging and editing definitions available.  Completeness unknown.

    Recommended Combos

    Just want to know what to buy?  All of these will be valid combos that will allow you to tune a vehicle effectively.

    (Ford Dealer Kit + Core Tuning Commercial Tuning Package)

    (QuarterHorse AND Jaybird AND F3 AND Binary Editor 2012 WITH Dongle AND Core Tuning Premium Definition AND Innovate MTX wideband AND Keyspan USB->Serial)

    (QuarterHorse AND Jaybird AND F3 AND Binary Editor 2012 AND Dex Definition AND Innovate MTX wideband AND Keyspan USB->Serial)

    (Jaybird AND F3 AND TunerPro RT)

  • About the “Data Trace” feature of our chip emulators
  • The ‘Data trace’ feature of our emulators is probably one of the most misunderstood features.  Trace is intended to give you some idea of what portions of an emulated ROM are being used by the target system as a last resort when you don’t have a way of establishing communications for logging.  Trace is a feature supported only by the Ostrich 2.0 and RoadRunner (with latest firmware).  This article exists to document what Trace is, how it works, what it can do, what kind of limitations exist and how it can go wrong.

    In order to understand how data trace works, it is necessary to understand the electrical signals used by a microcontroller in your ECU (or target system) to access RAM or ROM using parallel access.  There are many explanations of this out there but this one seemed decently concise.  It will also be necessary to understand the commands used to set up Trace and the mechanism that the emulator uses to gather and report data back to the PC, along with what happens to that data in the application running on the PC.  It will also be very helpful to understand TunerPro RT definition creation.

    Bottom line: Trace is complicated, finicky, temperamental and is not designed to provide the same kind of steady, consistent data that can be obtained through communicating with the ECM using some form of data logging.  Our emulators were NOT designed from the ground up to provide 100% accurate address trace data and we do not expect them to be able to deliver that level of performance.

    What Trace is and How it Works

    Normal operation of the emulator is the PC sending commands to the Emulator to make changes to emulator memory, allowing changes in a “chip” to be made without having to stop, remove, reprogram and reinstall the chip.  The Emulator has a microcontroller which is responsible for receiving and processing commands from the PC and communicating with a memory controller.  In order to allow changes to be made without disturbing the target system, our emulators sneak updates from the PC in between accesses by the target system.  (If the target expects data too fast, glitches may occur caused by collisions between PC and target memory access.)

    Trace allows an application that sends the specific appropriate setup commands to the emulator to monitor which addresses the target system accesses.  When trace is enabled, the microcontroller on the emulator starts querying the same memory controller used for realtime updates to see which addresses are queried by the target system.  In order to determine which memory is accessed, two main signals are monitored by the memory controller:

    1. The address lines on the emulator, used by the target system to specify which data it wants to see
    2. The !OE (Output Enable) and !CE(chip enable) pins, which are used by the target to control the timing of a data output request

    After the control lines indicate memory access, the memory controller stores the last address used by the target system.  As fast as it can, the microcontroller retrieves the address information from the memory controller.  Addresses responses are always 3 bytes and take (minimum) 8 MCU clock cycles or around 0.6uS to retrieve from the memory controller.  Setup commands sent by the PC control how the Emulator handles each address retrieved from the memory controller.  It can either store/buffer, send to PC or ignore the received address and wait for another hit.  If you are curious, you can look at the setup command structure in our documentation.  It is possible to control the range of addresses which trigger a match, the number of address hits to gather before reporting to the PC, whether addresses are streamed continuously or reported once before returning to normal control, whether duplicate hits are reported multiple times or once, the format of responses in terms of number of bytes reported and more.

    Our emulators communicate with the PC at 921,600 baud 8N1 over a FTDI USB-Serial connection.  This means that approximately 102,400 bytes can be transferred each second, and each byte takes about 10uS to send.  The system is bandwidth-limited because it can gather trace responses from the memory controller faster than it can supply them to the PC.

    Software Support

    At this point (April 2020) the only softwares that have implemented support for data trace that we know of are TunerPro RT and RenoVelo Domino.  Specific software support for the trace feature is REQUIRED.  An application that supports the realtime tuning / emulation features of our products (i.e. EmUtility) may NOT support trace at all.

    While we do not develop it in house, TunerPro RT is our reference platform that we use internally for testing and product development.  There are two methods of using the Trace feature of a compatible emulator in TunerPro RT.

    The Address Watch Utility: (Note: it is “greyed out” / unavailable in this screenshot because I didn’t have a compatible emulator plugged in)

    TPRT - Address watch utillity

     

    Trace can also be invoked to watch individual tables: (again, “greyed out” / unavailable in this screenshot because I didn’t have a compatible emulator plugged in)

    TPRT - A for Address

    Looking at the control protocols, an example auto-generated “T” command sent by TunerPro RT to the emulator to set up trace after clicking the ‘A’ icon appears to be

    "54 23 00 00 01 01 08 44 38 08 44 73 BC    /      T#.....D8.Ds."
    • Control byte = 23: 0b00100011
    • NO streaming
    • report only windowed hits
    • report all
    • normal addr triggers
    • relative addressing
    • single hit buffers
    • single byte address report
    • windowed report (relative  vs. absolute address reports)

     

    What can go wrong with Trace? / Limitations

    I’m sure Trace sounds great, like the perfect solution for ECUs where limited communication is possible.  Unfortunately, there are many ways for trace to go wrong and not act like you might hope or expect it would.

    1. Memory controller limitations: missed hits inside the emulator.  The memory controller does not buffer memory hits.  It only reports the last accessed address.  The speed at which the microcontroller queries the memory controller limits how many hits can be captured.  As discussed, it takes several MCU clock ticks do retrieve data from the memory controller. In ~0.6uS, at least 5x 100nS memory accesses can happen, all of which would be missed by the trace system.
    2. Processing received addresses: missed hits inside the emulator.  It takes time (albeit a VERY short amount of time) for the microcontroller on the emulator to process address hits and decide what to do with them.  As it does not query the memory controller when deciding what to do with an address hit, this limits the speed at which it can query the memory controller and limits how many hits can be captured.
    3. Bandwidth / PC: missed hits due to serial comms.  This bandwidth and latency limitation is inherent to the hardware design and will not change.  There is very limited bandwidth to communicate with a PC compared to the speed of memory access.  It takes around 10uSec to communincate the shortest format abbreviated address hit in streaming mode.  That means around 100 memory accesses (at 100ns) can occur (and be missed) by the target during the time it takes ONE Trace hit to be communicated with the PC.  Multiple byte responses (which will be necessary for larger monitor windows) will require 2 or 3 times as long for communication.  These are best-case figures, assuming streaming mode.  If a single response is sent followed by a new command setup, the latency of the process could be increased by a factor of 20 easily.  (Note: single response is the default monitoring scheme for TunerPro RT commands.)  If a large number of address hits are buffered and then bulk transferred, the latency between each hit is significantly decreased but the time to communicate with the PC is significantly increased, leading to a longer pause in between each group of responses.  Bottom line: serial communication limits the maximum potential address hit capability to a fraction of bus speed.
    4. Addressing mix-ups: software/XDF.   Under XDF … Edit XDF info it is possible to specify chip size, offset parameters.  TunerPro uses the address of the table in the XDF for the start and stop addresses it sends as part of the Trace setup command.  The XDF setup parameters control the relative location of tables within TunerPro’s memory model.  These need to be specified in a way that the addresses TunerPro RT uses for representing the bin on your PC match how the Ostrich stores the bin in its memory.  The addresses matching allows TunerPro RT to match the Trace command responses it receives from the emulator with the correct bytes stored in PC memory and show you which bytes in a table are being accessed.  If the memory models differ, TunerPro RT will never show any bytes in the table being accessed because the responses to the Trace commands don’t match with the information it has in memory.
    5. Memory Shadowing: target system behavior: “Shadowing” refers to the practice of an embedded system copying memory from one place to another before using it.  In many cases, slow flash or ROM chip memory is copied to faster RAM memory and then accessed in RAM during normal operation.  In this style of use, there are no ROM accesses to trigger Trace hits after the initial shadow.  While this does not often happen, it is controlled by the target system and is not under the control of our emulators.

    Conclusion

    Trace was a “nifty extra” added to our emulators because we could and figured it might be handy in some cases.  We did NOT design our emulators around being able to deliver completely accurate and precise address tracing.  We do not have any plans to improve the data Trace feature.  We do not have any plans to release an emulator that has better trace performance.  Our emulators were designed to take the place of a chip and allow realtime changes – this they do well.  Trace should be considered a “bonus feature.”  Do not rely on it to gather all the data needed to tune an ECU.

  • About Us
  • Here at Moates.Net, we aim to deliver
    personalized service and top-notch products!


    Creating and supplying the tools you want and need to achieve success in your Electronic Fuel Injection Tuning projects, Moates.Net comes through for novices as well as professionals and shops.

    Affordable and dependable, we have something for almost everyone!

    We're just a small outfit, Craig and Bonnie Moates, a husband and wife team.

    We spend time putting together this stuff to try and help make things easier for folks when it comes to DIY-EFI tuning. The objective here isn't to make big bucks. It's to learn, teach, and have fun. To supply the tools which make things even more interesting than they are from the factory.

    We're making just enough money on this to justify continued effort and additional product development, and our low pricing reflects that. If there's anything you need, just let us know and we'll do what we can to help.
     
     
    The products of Moates.Net are offered for educational, off-road use.
     
    It is up to the end user to ensure compliance with local and federal laws.
    No liability, express or implied, shall exist for any damages resulting from use or misuse of the product offerings of Moates.Net or its associates.
  • ALDU1
  • The ALDU1 is a datalogger designed to work with OBD I GM vehicles.

    The ALDU1 is compatible with the CABL1 and the CABL2, which are interface cables that connect to GM OBD I and OBD II vehicle respectively.

    The ALDU1 can be purchased by itself, or as a combo with either the CABL1 or CABL2.

    CABL1 is used for ~88-94 GM OBD1 vehicles with a rectangular ALDL connector like this:

    female ALDL connector

    CABL2 is used only on 95 (and some late-year 94) vehicles that still speak ALDL but have the D shaped “OBD2-style” connector like this:

    Female OBD2 port

    It can be interfaced with many pieces of software, including TunerPro.

    Pinouts and Wiring

    In the event you need to build a custom cable, use the following pin outs for the RJ45 connector:

    1=A(gnd)

    2=B(diag)

    3=E/M(data)

    This is the 86-94 original ALDL connector:

    ALDL 12pin 86-94

    On CABL1:

    • pin A is connected to RJ45 pin 1
    • pin B is connected to RJ45 pin 2
    • pin E and pin M are connected to RJ45 pin 3
    • pin G is connected to RJ45 pin 4
    • other pins are not connected

    This is the late model ALDL connector used in 1995:

    ALDL 16pin 95

    On CABL2:

    • Pins 4 and 5 are connected to RJ45 pin 1
    • Pin 13 is connected to RJ45 pin 2
    • Pin 9 is connected to RJ45 pin 3
    • Pin 16 is connected to RJ45 pin 4
    • Pin 2 is connected to RJ45 pin 5
    • Pin 10 is connected to RJ45 pin 6
    • Pin 14 is connected to RJ45 pin 7
    • Pin 6 is connected to RJ45 pin 8

    How to Buy

    Take a look at the OBD1 GM section of our online store here

    Test Procedure

    The first step towards determining if your ALDU1 is working correctly is to look at the USB side.  Before you continue, you should have verified USB connectivity and you will need to know which COM port your cable is using.  Take a look at the USB troubleshooting guide if you have any questions or concerns here.

    You will need to have TunerPro RT version 5.0 or later installed.

    Test procedure:

    1. Start TunerPro RT with your cable plugged into your computer but unplugged from the vehicle.
    2. Load a valid XDF / ADS-ADX combination for your vehicle
    3. Go to Tools … Preferences and select “Use Plug-in” for Interface type.  Then make sure “TunerPro Data Acquisition I/O Interface” is selected.  Next, select “Configure Plug-in Component”  Then make sure “Standard Serial” is selected and the COM port shown matches the COM port of your cable. 
    4. Finally, click the “Test For Valid Interface Using Settings” to perform a test on the cable.

    If your cable fails the above test, it will almost certainly need to come back to us for repair.  If it passes the above test, the hardware has passed a basic minimal test.

  • All Pages
  • Here is an expandable list of all documentation and other pages on the webstore. This represents everything from the old osc and wp platforms.

  • APU1
  • AutoProm Quick-Start Guide

     
    Real-Time Tuning / Emulation

     

    1) Make sure car is in key-off position with no power to the ECM. Remove the 'stock' chip and install socket adapter (G1 or G2) if not already present. Remove any chip from the AutoProm ZIF socket!

     

    2) Hook the 28-pin ribbon cable header to the ECM chip adapter socket. Make sure the 'red' wire points toward where the notch, or Pin1, would be on a chip normally going in the socket. The AutoProm will auto-select its power source from either the USB port or the ECM header.

     

    3) Get your PC powered on with TunerPro or TunerCat loaded up. Hook USB cable up to the AutoProm and PC. Check the AutoProm switch positions along the backpanel. The innermost horizontal switch can be positioned either inboard (10k) or outboard (open A-B) depending on ECM requirements. The outer horizontal switch should be in the 'towards the USB port' position.

     

    4) If you haven't already loaded a file onto the AutoProm, you will get an SES light condition indicating bad PROM content. Now is the time to go ahead and initialize the AutoProm from the PC software (should be under 'Emulation, Initialize' option). Once initialized, load the desired binary file into the PC software and upload it to the AutoProm (option should be right next to the 'Initialize' button). You may want to select the 'Verify' option (in TunerPro) to ensure that the binary upload was successful. If you keyed the vehicle on without a valid binary loaded, you may need to cycle the key off for about 20 seconds to let the ECM reset.

     

    5) At this point, you should have the AutoProm loaded with the desired binary file. The car should now respond as though a chip with the uploaded binary content is installed. If not, then there is an issue. Either the binary is corrupt or some other condition exists.

     

    6) From the PC software, you can make on-the-fly changes in the BIN content and have those changes immediately transferred to the AutoProm and the car should respond accordingly. There are several options within the supporting PC software, such as 'Checksum Disable', 'Upload Entire Tables', 'Update Checksum', and 'Keep Item Open', etc., so read through the documentation and practice a little bit so you understand what is going on and what to select. Typically, checksum disable or update checksum should be selected, so keep that in mind. Use a setting of �AA at 08� for 28 pin applications, and �AA at 04� for 24 pin ECMs.

     

    7) Have fun, and try not to burn anything up other than rubber and fuel!  

     
     

    Stand-Alone Datalogging

     

    1) It doesn't matter whether the AutoProm is connected to the ECM chip socket or just the USB cable, since for standalone data logging, it gets its power for that function from the USB port. Just hook it up to the PC USB port and place the outer horizontal switch in the standalone, 'away from USB port' position (toward outside).

     
    2) Connect the ALDL cable to the car's ALDL connection. Place the inner horizontal switch on the AutoProm backpanel in the proper position for your vehicle and mode desired: inboard="10k across A-B", outboard="open between A-B�.

     

    3) Load up your favorite datalogging program on the PC, such as "TunerPro", "WinALDL", or "TTS DataMaster". You may need to select an ADS file to define your datastream if using TunerPro. Turn on the key and start logging data! To stop, just turn car off and disconnect hardware. Keep in mind that in this mode, the hardware will not be 'detected' like the AutoProm mode, and that you'll need to specify which USB Serial Port number (hopefully COM3 or COM4) has been allocated to the port in the datalogging software preferences.

     
     

    Simultaneous Emulation and Datalogging

     

    1) Carry out the same steps as in Topics (1) and (2) above, except keep the inner horizontal switch in the 'inboard / toward USB port' position.

     

    2) Use a simultaneous-supporting program such as TunerPro RT to perform simultaneous datalogging and real-time emulation/tuning. You should see results from changes to the binary on-the-fly right when you make them.

     
     

    Chip Reading and Programming

     

    1) Connect the AutoProm to the USB cable. The USB will supply the power.

     

    2) Place the target or source chip in the ZIF socket. Orientation is critical, and the chip should be placed with its notch or arrow facing toward the ZIF handle and toward the back panel of the AutoProm. The chip should be at the 'bottom' of the socket, such that any unused socket pin slots are closest to the handle or backplane.

     

    3) Use a supporting software program, such as TunerPro or FlashBurn to pick read/write operation, file location and name, starting and ending addresses, any hex offsets, bank selection, or other characteristic of the read/write operation. Carry out desired program/read/verify steps as desired, and remove chip from socket.
     
  • APU1 Support
  • AutoProm Quick-Start Guide

    [ 2007 Craig Moates, craig@moates.net ] 

    Real-Time Tuning / Emulation

    1) Make sure car is in key-off position with no power to the ECM. Remove the 'stock' chip and install socket adapter (G1 or G2) if not already present. Remove any chip from the AutoProm ZIF socket!

    2) Hook the 28-pin ribbon cable header to the ECM chip adapter socket. Make sure the 'red' wire points toward where the notch, or Pin1, would be on a chip normally going in the socket. The AutoProm will auto-select its power source from either the USB port or the ECM header.

    3) Get your PC powered on with TunerPro or TunerCat loaded up. Hook USB cable up to the AutoProm and PC. Check the AutoProm switch positions along the backpanel. The innermost horizontal switch can be positioned either inboard (10k) or outboard (open A-B) depending on ECM requirements. The outer horizontal switch should be in the 'towards the USB port' position.

    4) If you haven't already loaded a file onto the AutoProm, you will get an SES light condition indicating bad PROM content. Now is the time to go ahead and initialize the AutoProm from the PC software (should be under 'Emulation, Initialize' option). Once initialized, load the desired binary file into the PC software and upload it to the AutoProm (option should be right next to the 'Initialize' button). You may want to select the 'Verify' option (in TunerPro) to ensure that the binary upload was successful. If you keyed the vehicle on without a valid binary loaded, you may need to cycle the key off for about 20 seconds to let the ECM reset.

    5) At this point, you should have the AutoProm loaded with the desired binary file. The car should now respond as though a chip with the uploaded binary content is installed. If not, then there is an issue. Either the binary is corrupt or some other condition exists.

    6) From the PC software, you can make on-the-fly changes in the BIN content and have those changes immediately transferred to the AutoProm and the car should respond accordingly. There are several options within the supporting PC software, such as 'Checksum Disable', 'Upload Entire Tables', 'Update Checksum', and 'Keep Item Open', etc., so read through the documentation and practice a little bit so you understand what is going on and what to select. Typically, checksum disable or update checksum should be selected, so keep that in mind. Use a setting of �AA at 08� for 28 pin applications, and �AA at 04� for 24 pin ECMs.

    7) Have fun, and try not to burn anything up other than rubber and fuel!

    Stand-Alone Datalogging
    1) It doesn't matter whether the AutoProm is connected to the ECM chip socket or just the USB cable, since for standalone data logging, it gets its power for that function from the USB port. Just hook it up to the PC USB port and place the outer horizontal switch in the standalone, 'away from USB port' position (toward outside).

    2) Connect the ALDL cable to the car's ALDL connection. Place the inner horizontal switch on the AutoProm backpanel in the proper position for your vehicle and mode desired: inboard="10k across A-B", outboard="open between A-B�.

    3) Load up your favorite datalogging program on the PC, such as "TunerPro", "WinALDL", or "TTS DataMaster". You may need to select an ADS file to define your datastream if using TunerPro. Turn on the key and start logging data! To stop, just turn car off and disconnect hardware. Keep in mind that in this mode, the hardware will not be 'detected' like the AutoProm mode, and that you'll need to specify which USB Serial Port number (hopefully COM3 or COM4) has been allocated to the port in the datalogging software preferences.

    Simultaneous Emulation and Datalogging

    1) Carry out the same steps as in Topics (1) and (2) above, except keep the inner horizontal switch in the 'inboard / toward USB port' position.

    2) Use a simultaneous-supporting program such as TunerPro RT to perform simultaneous datalogging and real-time emulation/tuning. You should see results from changes to the binary on-the-fly right when you make them.

    Chip Reading and Programming

    1) Connect the AutoProm to the USB cable. The USB will supply the power.

    2) Place the target or source chip in the ZIF socket. Orientation is critical, and the chip should be placed with its notch or arrow facing toward the ZIF handle and toward the back panel of the AutoProm. The chip should be at the 'bottom' of the socket, such that any unused socket pin slots are closest to the handle or backplane.

    3) Use a supporting software program, such as TunerPro or FlashBurn to pick read/write operation, file location and name, starting and ending addresses, any hex offsets, bank selection, or other characteristic of the read/write operation. Carry out desired program/read/verify steps as desired, and remove chip from socket.

  • APU1+Wideband+Datalog
  • This is a nice article written by Charles Woock on how to configure TunerPro RT to digest 0-5v inputs such as the LM1 and LC1. The values can be brought in through the APU1 via the APADC interface. The tutorial explains how to set up the ADS file and render values such as AFR Air Fuel Ratio as part of your GM ALDL data stream.

    Here's the PDF file:

    http://osc.moates.net/zips/wideband_datalog_tunerpro_lm1.pdf

  • Auto to Manual
  • To perform an auto to manual conversion on an OBD I Honda ECU, use the following procedure:

    1. Verify that you have an Automatic. You will know if there are resistors in RP17 and RP18 (next to the EEPROM)
    2. Remove RP17 and RP18
    3. Replace RP18 with a jumper. (The one you removed from J12 usually works well, or just a paperclip)

    When you are done, the resistors should look like this:

    Manual ECU Resistor Arrangement

    Manual ECU Resistor Arrangement

  • AutoProm (APU1)
  • The Autoprom

    The Autoprom was the first Moates device. It is a combination Emulator, Chip Burner and Datalogger.

    Today you can buy these devices separately, however this package eliminates the need for 3 separate units.

    Compatibility

    As of writing this article, the only software known to be fully compatible with the Autoprom is TunerPro RT.  TunerCat OBD1 Tuner and TTS Datamaster support almost all of the AutoProm’s features.

    If you plan on tuning Honda vehicles, purchase the Ostrich, Burn1, and HuLog separately or a Demon as there is no software for Hondas that supports the Autoprom and all of its features.

    The Autoprom CANNOT be used to program F3 Ford chips using the FA nor can it be used to read Ford ECMs using the FE.  You will need to look at the Jaybird or BURN2/FA/FE combo for Ford vehicles.

    The Autoprom does not work smoothly with 29F040 chips.  If you need to work with these chips, it is recommended that you purchase a BURN2.

    The Autoprom should be compatible with almost all USB ports.  Its power consumption should be in the 100-150mA range.

     

    Environmental Compatibility

    The APU1 is NOT designed to be left in an engine bay!!!  It will fail prematurely if exposed to the heat of a bay.   It is designed for a maximum operating temperature of about 80C (175F).

    The APU1 is NOT designed to be exposed to moisture!!!  It will fail prematurely if exposed to liquids.  It will fail prematurely from condensation inside its case.

    If you are going to use the device in harsh environments, try to do so for short periods of time and then program a chip for long term use.  We recommend this in general but it is especially important in harsh environments.

    Due to its internal battery constantly powering portions of the device, the APU1 can easily be ruined by condensation caused by sudden drops of temperature in humid environments.  Returning the device to a cool (~50-77F / 10-25C) , dry environment after exposure to high humidity before attempting to use again  is a very good idea.  Placing it in a sealed bag with dry rice or another desiccant can help if condensation is suspected.

     

    Switch Positions

    APU1 Legend Picture

    Real-Time Tuning / Emulation

    1. Make sure car is in key-off position with no power to the ECM. Remove the ‘stock’ chip and install socket adapter (G1 or G2) if not already present. Remove any chip from the AutoProm ZIF socket!
    2. Hook the 28-pin ribbon cable header to the ECM chip adapter socket. Make sure the ‘red’ wire points toward where the notch, or Pin1, would be on a chip normally going in the socket. The AutoProm will auto-select its power source from either the USB port or the ECM header.
    3. Get your PC powered on with TunerPro or TunerCat loaded up. Hook USB cable up to the AutoProm and PC. Check the AutoProm switch positions along the backpanel. The innermost horizontal switch can be positioned either inboard (10k – used to select data initiation on older-model vehicles.  Try the other ‘open’ setting first!) or outboard (open A-B – almost everything else) depending on ECM requirements. The outer horizontal switch should be in the ‘towards the USB port’ position. (APU1 mode. Other position is passthrough mode, identical to ALDU1).
    4. If you haven’t already loaded a file onto the AutoProm, you will get an SES light condition indicating bad PROM content. Now is the time to go ahead and initialize the AutoProm from the PC software (should be under ‘Emulation, Initialize’ option). Once initialized, load the desired binary file into the PC software and upload it to the AutoProm (option should be right next to the ‘Initialize’ button). You may want to select the ‘Verify’ option (in TunerPro) to ensure that the binary upload was successful. If you keyed the vehicle on without a valid binary loaded, you may need to cycle the key off for about 20 seconds to let the ECM reset.
    5. At this point, you should have the AutoProm loaded with the desired binary file. The car should now respond as though a chip with the uploaded binary content is installed. If not, then there is an issue. Either the binary is corrupt or some other condition exists.
    6. From the PC software, you can make on-the-fly changes in the BIN content and have those changes immediately transferred to the AutoProm and the car should respond accordingly. There are several options within the supporting PC software, such as ‘Checksum Disable’, ‘Upload Entire Tables’, ‘Update Checksum’, and ‘Keep Item Open’, etc., so read through the documentation and practice a little bit so you understand what is going on and what to select. Typically, checksum disable or update checksum should be selected. Use a setting of “AA at 08” for 28 pin applications, and “AA at 04” for 24 pin ECMs.
    7. Have fun, and try not to burn anything up other than rubber and fuel!

    Stand-Alone Datalogging

    1. Hook the APU1 up to the PC USB port and place the outer horizontal switch in the standalone, ‘away from USB port’ position (toward outside). It doesn’t matter whether the AutoProm is connected to the ECM chip socket because it gets power for standalone data logging from the USB port.
    2. Connect the ALDL cable to the car’s ALDL connection. Place the inner horizontal switch on the AutoProm backpanel in the proper position for your vehicle and mode desired: inboard=”10k across A-B”, outboard=”open between A-B”.
    3. Load up your favorite datalogging program on the PC, such as “TunerPro”, “WinALDL”, or “TTS DataMaster”. You may need to select an ADS file to define your datastream if using TunerPro. Turn on the key and start logging data! To stop, just turn car off and disconnect hardware. Keep in mind that in this mode, the hardware will not be ‘detected’ like the AutoProm mode, and that you’ll need to specify which USB Serial Port number (hopefully COM3 or COM4) has been allocated to the port in the datalogging software preferences.

    Simultaneous Emulation and Datalogging

    1. Carry out the same steps described above in the sections on Emulation and Datalogging, except keep the outer horizontal switch in the ‘inboard / toward USB port’ position.
    2. Use a simultaneous-supporting program such as TunerPro RT to perform simultaneous datalogging and real-time emulation/tuning. You should see results from changes to the binary on-the-fly right when you make them.

    Chip Reading and Programming

    1. Connect the AutoProm to the USB cable. The USB will supply the power.
    2. Make sure the 28 pin ribbon cable used for emulation is UNPLUGGED from the unit. Unpredictable behavior can result from the APU1 being directly connected to a ECM using the emulation cable while burning chips.
    3. Make sure that the switches on the AutoProm are set for AUTOPROM MODE (outer switch inwards, see above picture)
    4. Place the target or source chip in the ZIF socket. Orientation is critical, and the chip should be placed with its notch or arrow facing toward the ZIF handle and toward the back panel of the AutoProm. The chip should be at the ‘bottom’ of the socket, such that any unused socket pin slots are closest to the handle or backplane.
    5. Use a supporting software program, such as TunerPro or FlashBurn to pick read/write operation, file location and name, starting and ending addresses, any hex offsets, bank selection, or other characteristic of the read/write operation. Carry out desired program/read/verify steps as desired, and remove chip from socket.

    APU1 Video introduction

    There is a series of videos on our YouTube channel that also explain some of the basics. You can also consult the APU1 Troubleshooting guide if you’re having trouble.

    APU1+Wideband+Datalog

    On the back of the APU1 you will find a terminal block with 4x screw terminals. The one closest to the USB port is GND/Common, and the other 3 are for channels 1,2,3 respectively. If you have a wideband O2 with 0-5v outputs, it can be wired up to GND/CH1 and TunerPro can then present the ADC data along with the rest of the datastream when operating in AutoProm mode (this feature unavailable in pass-through mode). Configuring this is a little bit complicated and requires comfort with TunerPro RT, basic algebra and some patience.

    This is a nice article written by Charles Woock on how to configure TunerPro RT to digest 0-5v inputs such as the LM1 and LC1. The values can be brought in through the APU1 via the APADC interface.  (Note: newer APU1s have the APADC interface built in as standard equipment) The tutorial explains how to set up the ADS file and render values such as AFR Air Fuel Ratio as part of your GM ALDL data stream.

    Here’s the PDF file:

    http://static.moates.net/zips/wideband_datalog_tunerpro_lm1.pdf

     

    “First Edition” AutoPROMs

    Very early editions of this unit feature a different switch configuration.

    first gen apu1

    These units have a horizontal switch and a vertical switch.

    For the horizontal switch, outbound is passthrough mode and inbound is APU1 mode.

    The vertical switch has three positions.  It controls the behavior of the datalogging interface, much like the inner switch on newer models. 10k is the up position, open is the middle position, and short (check codes) is the down position.

    These units also use a different style cable to connect the APU1 to the vehicle.  We no longer sell this style of cable.

  • Beginners: Programming Chips
  • A lot of the questions we get either via email or on the support line boil down to, “how do I program a chip?”

    You asked, we deliver!  This tutorial is going to picture the BURN2 but it applies equally to the BURN1 and APU1/AutoPROM as well.

    Step by step:

      1. Get out your burner and a chip.
        start
        Our burners will work with the AT29C256, SST27SF512, AM29F040 and F3/F3v2 chips we sell.
        Our burners will NOT program 27C32, 27C128, 27C256, 27C512 chips but it will read them.
      2. Plug the burner in to your laptop’s USB port.
      3. Install the chip per directions printed on the burner – the unused pins should be closest to the metal handle.  The divet on the chip used to mark pin 1 should also face the metal handle.
        chip_orientation
      4. Fire up our Flash n Burn software.  (If you do not have Flash n Burn, see here to download it)
      5. Assuming that your drivers are loaded and your hardware is working, you should see this screen after the software loads:
        hardware found
        If instead you see something like this:
        no hardware detected
        “No Hardware Found” means that you should see the BURN2 troubleshooting guide,
      6. Next, select the chip type from the list in the upper left hand corner. ( 28 pin = SST27SF512 *OR* Jaybird/BURN2+FA with F3 chip = J3 Ford Adapter)
        chip type
      7. Chips need to be be blank before you program them.  Click “Erase Chip” and then “Blank Check”  This will erase the chip and then perform a check to see if it is blank.  If it succeeds, you should see this:
        chipblank

        If you see this instead:
        chip not blank
        Try another chip.  If your burner fails to erase several different chips, you probably have fake chips.  If you are sure your chips are not fake, contact us for further assistance.
      8. At this point, you have a blank chip correctly inserted in your burner with the correct chip type selected.  The next step is to load the file you want to program to the chip.  To do this, click “Load File to buffer” and then point it at the file on your PC that you want to program.
        select file
      9. Double check addressing settings.  (This can be tricky – there is a whole article on it to help you.)  In most cases, the software will automatically set these for you.  These settings are important because most of the chips used in ECUs are a smaller capacity than the chip you are programming.  You need to make sure the program you put in the chip ends up in the top (end) of the chip, so these settings matter.  A short list of chip addressing settings:
        • 64k bin: 000000 start 00FFFF end ( SST27SF512 chip )
        • 32k bin: 008000 start 00FFFF end ( SST27SF512 chip )
        • 16k bin: 00C000 start 00FFFF end ( SST27SF512 chip )
        • 4k bin: 00F000 start 00FFFF end ( SST27SF512 chip )
        • 56k Ford EECIV bin: 032000 start 03FFFF end ( Ford F3 chip )
        • 256k Ford EECV bin: 000000 start 03FFFF end ( Ford F3 chip )
        • 112k Ford EECV bin: SPECIAL need other software ( Ford F3 chip )
        • 216k Ford EECV bin: SPECIAL need other software ( Ford F3 chip )
        • BEB files CANNOT be programmed with FnB / TP.  Must program using Binary Editor
        • eBIN file CANNOT be programmed with FnB / TP.  Must program using EEC Editor.

        check_settings

      10. Click “Program Chip”  You should see a progress bar march across and then the software report “PROM I/O succeeded.”
        program successful
      11. Now click “Verify Chip w/ Buffer”  This will read the contents of the chip back and check them against the program you have loaded in the buffer.  If this test passes, you can be confident that the chip was programmed correctly.
        verify good
        You should see: “SUCCESS:Verification Succeeded” as the message reported back.  If you see this, you are DONE and the chip is programmed correctly!

         

        If instead you see “FAILURE: Verification Failed (not matched)” you will need to do some troubleshooting:
        verify bad

    • Check and make sure the chip is inserted firmly in the socket. Remove it and re-insert it to be safe.
    • Re-erase and blank check it. If it passes a blank check, try programming it again.
    • If it fails the blank check, try another chip.  Failing blank checks is a common sign of fake chips.
    • Try another chip purchased from us, xenocron.com, poweraddersolutions.com or another known legitimate source.
    • If you’re still having trouble, contact us.
  • Binary Editor 2010 and EEC Analyzer Registration
  • In order to issue you a license for Binary Editor, you must first download and install the software. ( http://www.eecanalyzer.net )  Once you have downloaded and installed the software, go to the “Register” menu at the top of the screen and select “Register Binary Editor”

    Next, you will be presented with a screen where you need to provide some information.  First, check the boxes to indicate which hardware you will be using.  Under “Tuners,” check “Moates” for the QuarterHorse.  If you have an Innovate or PLX wideband, make sure you check the appropriate box under “Loggers.”  You will also need to do this for the DataQ standalone datalogger, if you own one.  Finally, put your name in the “Licensed To:” box.  Finally, copy and paste the Machine Code displayed and email it to clint@eecanalyzer.net so he can issue you your license.

    Note: you will see the machine code  change as you check and uncheck boxes along with changing the name in the “Licensed To:” box.  You must have the same boxes checked and your name typed identically as when you requested your license before you type in the registration key or your “Machine Code” will be different and the registration process will fail!

    After you have received an email with your registration key, you will need to open the software registration box again, make sure the same boxes are checked, re-input your name in the “Licensed To:” box so everything matches.  Enter the registration key in the boxes below and then click “Register” – and you’re done!

    EEC Analyzer

    Download and install the software from http://www.eecanalyzer.net

    Go to the “About” tab and click “Register”

    Copy and paste the “Machine Code” into an email to clint@eecanalyzer.net

    When you receive your registration code, navigate back to this screen and enter it in the bottom box then click “Ok.”  Your software will now be registered.

  • Binary Editor 2012: Dongle updates for EEC Analyzer
  • If you purchase Binary Editor 2012 with a dongle from us, it will come pre-activated for Binary Editor and the Innovate Wideband logger.  If you purchased EEC Analyzer, you will need to gather and send some information to Binary Editor’s author so an update can be issued for your dongle.

    Procedure

    1.  Fire up Binary Editor 2012 with your dongle connected.
    2. Look at the top of the screen.  It should say “Registered to Moates 1234”
    3. Fire an email to techsupport@eecanalyzer.net :

    “This is John User.  My dongle number is Moates 1234.  Please send me a dongle update for EEC Analyzer that I purchased through Moates.  Thanks!”

  • Bluetooth for Ostrich
  • For the Ostrich2, the following will show you how to install the Bluetooth into the unit:
     
    1) Open the Ostrich (two screws), keep track of the two nylon spacers.
    2) Gather up the Bluetooth kit parts as shown in the pictures below.
    3) Place the pin headers on the Bluetooth module and snap them on, and then solder it in place as shown.
    4) Screw the unit back together (no cleaning necessary) and connect using Bluetooth software (separate tutorial available).
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
    For the original Ostrich, look here:
    Ostrich BT Install Pictures
    Basically, it is as follows:
    1. Remove jumper caps and install shielded angle header.
    2. Install module.
    3. If you want to go back to USB, then REMOVE bluetooth module and you can put the jumper caps back in place.
     
  • Bluetooth Install on Ostrich
  • For the Ostrich2, the following will show you how to install the Bluetooth into the unit:
    1) Open the Ostrich (two screws), keep track of the two nylon spacers.
    2) Gather up the Bluetooth kit parts as shown in the pictures below.
    3) Place the pin headers on the Bluetooth module and snap them on, and then solder it in place as shown.
    4) Screw the unit back together (no cleaning necessary) and connect using Bluetooth software (separate tutorial available).
    For the original Ostrich, look here:
    Ostrich BT Install Pictures
    Basically, it is as follows:
    1. Remove jumper caps and install shielded angle header.
    2. Install module.
    3. If you want to go back to USB, then REMOVE bluetooth module and you can put the jumper caps back in place.
  • Burn1
  • The Burn1

    The Burn1 is a revolutionary device that was designed with the automotive enthusiast in mind. it supports chips used in our products aimed at ECUs/ECMs from the late 80s and early 90s.

    The BURN1 can:

    • WRITE SST 27SF512, ATMEL AT29C256 and 29F040 chips.
    • READ but NOT WRITE 2732A, 27C128, 27C256 chips (and most other 24/28 pin EPROMs/EEPROMs that can replace one of these chips).
    • With a F2A adapter, it can WRITE our F3 EECIV/EECV chip modules.
    • With a F2E adapter, READ factory Ford ECMs.
    • with a HDR1 adapter, READ factory GM TPI ECMs that would use a G1 chip adapter .

    As you can see, it is designed to comprehensively work with our products but it is NOT a general purpose EPROM programmer.  If you require programming chips outside these specifications, you probably should look at another product.

    Before the Burn1 was developed, there were only a handful of chip burners known to be compatible with these chips. These burners were usually not cost-effective, used outdated PC interfaces like a parallel Printer port. They also required external power supplies, so forget burning on the fly. Examples include the $160 Pocket Programmer II.

    The Burn1 was revolutionary with its simple USB interface that provided all power to the unit. An internal DC voltage step-up circuit is used to provide the high erase voltage required on certain chips.

    The latest generation of the Burn1 is the Burn2. It has the same same command set and features as the Burn1 but has a smaller size.

    How to Buy

    This product has been replace with the Burn2. Please visit the Burn2’s page on our webstore here

  • BURN1+F2A+F2E: Reading Ford ECMs
  • There are two products that we sell that can read the program in a factory ECM:

    BURN1/BURN2 with a F2A and F2E – This setup can be used to read ECMs on the bench.  ECM does not need to be powered.

    QuarterHorse – This setup requires the ECM to be powered either by a vehicle’s battery or a 12V bench power supply.

    Reading with BURN2+F2A+F2E

    1. Start with all cables disconnected (F2A,F2E,USB,etc.)
    2. Connect the F2E to the F2A
    3. Put the F2A in the BURN1/BURN2
    4. Connect the Burn1-2/F2A/F2E Assembly to your ECM.  Make sure your ECM is powered off if it is in the vehicle
    5. Connect the USB from the BURN2 to the PC
    6. Start Flash n  Burn Software on the PC
    7. Choose appropriate settings for the Supported chip type based on the ECM type:  J3 Ford EEC-IV Reader or J3 Ford EEC-V Reader
    8. Choose appropriate settings based on the number of banks used:
      • 56k EEC-IV = 032000 start 03FFFF end
      • 64k EEC-IV = 030000 start 03FFFF end
      • 2-bank EEC-V = 010000 start 02FFFF end
      • 4 bank EEC-V = 000000 start 03FFFF end
    9. Click “Save buffer to file” and choose a filename.

    Reading with QuarterHorse

    At the time of writing (Aug5-2010) Binary Editor is the only software that supports this feature of the QH reliably.  Select “Read PCM” from within the software.

  • Burn2
  • The Burn2

    The Burn2

    The Burn2 has the same features as the Burn1, only smaller and more compact.

    The Burn2 is a revolutionary device that was designed with the automotive enthusiast in mind. it supports chips used in our products aimed at ECUs/ECMs from the late 80s and early 90s.

    The BURN2 can:

    • WRITE SST 27SF512, ATMEL AT29C256 and 29F040 chips.
    • READ but NOT WRITE 2732A, 27C128, 27C256 chips (and most other 24/28 pin EPROMs/EEPROMs that can replace one of these chips).
    • With a F2A adapter, it can WRITE our F3 EECIV/EECV chip modules.
    • With a F2E adapter, READ factory Ford ECMs.
    • with a HDR1 adapter, READ factory GM TPI ECMs that would use a G1 chip adapter .

    As you can see, it is designed to comprehensively work with our products but it is NOT a general purpose EPROM programmer.  If you require programming chips outside these specifications, you probably should look at another product.

    How to Buy

    Visit this item’s page in our online store here

    Software

    This device can be used directly from TunerPro RT, EEC Editor, Binary Editor software packages as well as the Flash-n-Burn dedicated programmer software.

    Chris Handwerker was kind enough to write a utility for using the BURN2 under Linux.  Thanks for sharing with us!

  • Capacitor Repair: Ford A9L ECM
  • All electronics will fail with age.  A significant chunk of the failures are due to electrolytic capacitor failure.  These components are virtually guaranteed to fail eventually, even under normal use circumstances.  There are even calculators that can help you estimate how long a given capacitor will last!

    So why do manufacturers use these components if they know they will eventually fail?  There really aren’t a lot of good alternatives that have the necessary specifications AND are inexpensive.

    Bottom line: all electronic devices that have power supplies generally have electrolytic capacitors that fail.  Ford ECMs are no exception.

    A9L Capacitor Replacement

    Note: all of these pictures are fairly high res.  If you click them to view the original, you will be able to zoom in for much more detail.

    There are three capacitors that typically need replaced in an A9L / Fox Body MAF ECM.

    1. First step: Take off all the A9L’s clothes.  Both upper and lower case will need to come off.  These are TORX screws!


      A9L unclothed

    2. Next, locate the capacitors that need to be replaced.
    3. A9L unclothed caps marked
    4. Here is one of the cans, close up:
      original cap 1

       

      Even in this extreme close up shot of the base, it is hard to see anything OBVIOUSLY wrong.

      original cap 1 base

    5. Next step: de-solder the old capacitors.  Like always, we recommend that you use a high-quality de-soldering tool such as the Hakko 808 or a Xytronic 988.  You’ll have a hard time if you try to use a de-soldering braid.  I had to apply a lot of heat and go really slowly in order to achieve solid results.
      Bottom:
      original cap 1 desoldered bottom
      Top:
      original cap 1 desoldered top
    6. Next, it’s time to solder in a replacement.
      Bottom:
      replacement soldered bottom
      Top:
      replacement soldered top
    7. And sometimes when you look a little closer you will see that those caps that looked OK from a distance really had more serious issues…
      bad old capacitor 2 on board closeup
      bad old capacitor 2 on board closeup 2
    8. After you get it out of there, you can see the true mess:
      bad old capacitor 2 on board goop 2
      The capacitor really isn’t much better.  It pretty much fell apart being removed.  You can see that it was leaking pretty severely:
      bad old capacitor
    9. When you have goop on the circuit board, you should clean it up nicely before replacing the cap.  A Q-tip and rubbing alcohol was used here:
      bad old capacitor 2 board cleaned up 2
    10. Once everything is cleaned up, solder away with the replacements.  This ECU pictured took about 30-40 minutes to split, de-solder caps, re-solder caps, clean J3 port and re-assemble.
  • Cloning Ford ECMs
  • You can use our tools to “clone” a 1986 – 2004 Ford ECM, without needing any definitions or tuning software.

    There are a few caveats:
    1. ECUs must have the same hardware ID. You can’t mix and match tunes from different hardware IDs without having unpredictable (i.e. FAIL) results most of the time.
    2. Our chips do NOT touch the VID block. Things like PATS codes, tire size, rear end differential configuration, blah blah blah are stored in the VID block. The tune and calibration may change but the original VID block items will NOT and you will have to either otherwise program these or change tune configuration to override/ignore them.

    What You Would Need

    BURN2 (programmer), FA (chip interface), FE (reader), F3 (one F3 for each ECM) *OR* QuarterHorse(reader), Jaybird(programmer), F3 (one for each ECM)

    Be aware that reading ECMs will require the ECM to be powered on when using a QuarterHorse(always).   The BURN2 can sometimes provide enough power on the bench to read without issues.

    The Flash n Burn software that is available on our website would be the weapon of choice for this.

    Addresses to read/write: 0x030000 to 0x03FFFF for EECIV, 0000000 to 003FFFF for EECV

  • Conditions and Terms of Use
  • The products of Moates.Net are offered for educational, off-road use.

    It is up to the end user to ensure compliance with local and federal laws.

    No liability, express or implied, shall exist for any damages resulting from use or misuse of the product offerings of Moates.Net or its associates.

  • Contact
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  • Contact Us
  • If you can't find the answer to your question in the Support and Help link on the left, you can:

    EMAIL US: Email is available 7 days a week, 24 hours. We try to respond to most messages within a day or two.

    To contact us via email, please email support AT moates DOT net . (You need to remove the 'AT' and 'DOT' replacing them with the appropriate symbols, just in case you didn't figure that out.)

  • Credit Card Processing 101
  • While sometimes inconvenient, please understand that credit card verification schemes exist to protect you from fraud.

    How Credit Card Processing Works at Moates

    1. When you click “Submit” on the website to send us your order, your computer sends your information to us over an encrypted connection.
    2. Our website re-sends the information you have sent to our merchant service to AUTHORIZE (or pre-auth) your card.  (Important: your credit card information exists on our servers long enough to receive it and re-transmit it to our Merchant Service.  We do NOT log, store or otherwise keep a record of credit cards in any shape or form.)
    3. The Merchant Service checks your CARD NUMBER, EXPIRATION DATE, BILLING ADDRESS and CVV2 / VERIFICATION CODE versus the information that the card issuer has on file.  
    4. If the information provided by you even somewhat matches the information on file, the merchant service proceeds to place a PRE-AUTHORIZATION (hold) on the card for the amount requested.
    5. At this point, the Merchant Service performs additional verification procedures on the information you have submitted.  We normally have very strict standards for verification in order to prevent as much fraud as possible.  If any of the information you’ve submitted does not match, you will probably be kicked back to the order screen so you can fix the error.
    6. Regardless of whether your transaction was accepted or rejected by our Merchant Server, the PRE-AUTHORIZATION (hold) from the previous step has already happened and cannot be undone.
    7. This PRE-AUTHORIZATION is not an actual charge. This simply places a hold on funds in order to cover a real transaction, should it actually happen. On many online banking sites, these show up as a “Pending charge.”  We do NOT have any of your money at this point – your bank/credit card issuer is in control of the funds affected by the PRE-AUTHORIZATION.
    8. As part of the process of picking your order, packing it and shipping it out we complete the transaction, taking the PRE-AUTHORIZATION and turning it into a CHARGE.  Bottom line: until a human being manually completes the order, we do not receive any of your money.
    9. Authorizations that are not completed into transactions will generally go away on their own in 24-72 hours.  We do NOT have control over the speed at which authorizations fall off your card – this is controlled by your card issuing authority, not us.  We can’t remove an authorization from your card – we can only affect CHARGES from completed transactions.

    My Card Didn’t Verify?  What Can I do?

    1. DO NOT KEEP SUBMITTING THE SAME ORDER OVER AND OVER.  If it didn’t work once, it’s not going to work a second time with the same information.  If you keep submitting an order repeatedly without changing anything, you are likely to create lots of bogus pending charges/pre-auths on your card.
    2. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR BILLING ADDRESS!!!  The most common issue with cards being declined is the billing address information not matching what your card issuer has on file.  In most cases, we can ship to a different address but we MUST have your correct billing address in order to process the order
    3. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR CVV2 CODE!!!  The second most common issue with card verification is an incorrect CVV2 code, which is the 3 or 4 digit code on the back of the card.  Your card will not process without this information.
    4. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR CARD NUMBER AND EXPIRATION!!!  Your card will not process unless this basic data is correct.
    5. USE PAYPAL.  If you have PayPal, you can use it to pay.  PayPal often can use your card for payment even when we have issues with it because of the more involved verification procedure that is required to get an account.
    6. HAVE US CONTACT YOU.  If you are 100% convinced that your card information is correct and PayPal is not an option for you, call or email us and we can look into things further for you.

    Just remember – dealing with credit card authorization problems can be frustrating but the system exists to protect you from fraud.

  • CROME
  • John Cui's ROM Editor

    John Cui

     

    CROME is a ROM-Editor written primarily for OBD I Honda ECUs. A Pro version is available for $149 which unlocks a hidden data-logging feature.

    CROME works natively with the following Moates hardware:

    • Ostrich (both 1.0 and 2.0)
    • Burn1
    • Burn2
    • HuLog (both Xtreme HuLog and Original HuLog)
    • HondaLog

    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKpLKHEwWXY[/youtube]

  • Cross Reference Hardware Application Guide
  • Here is a link to an Excel file that shows a good cross-reference of info. Click here if you want to see the guide and open in Excel:
     
     
    http://osc.moates.net/Moates Hardware Selection Guide.xls
  • Current Class Schedule
  • Future Events

    None planned at this time! 

    Past Events

    Learn EEC-IV/V Ford Tuning – Baton Rouge, LA – weekend of March 28th, 2015

    Learn EEC-IV Ford Tuning – Cincinnati, OH – weekend of September 26th, 2014

    Learn EEC-IV Ford Tuning – Baton Rouge, LA – weekend of October 11th, 2014

    Learn Nismotronic for Nissan – Carlisle, PA – May 23-25, 2014

    Learn EEC-IV Ford Tuning – Baton Rouge, LA – November 2013

    Learn EEC-IV Ford Tuning – Cincinnnati, OH – October 2013

    Learn EEC-IV Ford Tuning – New Orleans, LA – April 2013

  • Customer Rides
  • Here you can see details on how users have applied Moates.Net Hardware to their particular project vehicles. Some of these are pretty extraordinary, and others are examples of how our hardware can be applied to even a mild street vehicle.

    (More Vehicles Coming Soon, submit yours today!)

    The Moates.Net project vehicle is here:

    1987 Trans Am 441 SBC

    I didn't get any pics up under the dash yet, that's where the Bluetooth AutoProm is tucked away 100% of the time!

    Want to see your work featured here? Send me the descriptive text via email along with pictures of the vehicle which feature images of the installed Moates.Net hardware. Also include testimonials on how the hardware affected vehicle performance, along with any dyno or timeslip evidence you might have. I'll be glad to add your stuff in here!

  • Your privacy choices
  • As described in our Privacy Policy, we collect personal information from your interactions with us and our website, including through cookies and similar technologies. We may also share this personal information with third parties, including advertising partners. We do this in order to show you ads on other websites that are more relevant to your interests and for other reasons outlined in our privacy policy.

    Sharing of personal information for targeted advertising based on your interaction on different websites may be considered "sales", "sharing", or "targeted advertising" under certain U.S. state privacy laws. Depending on where you live, you may have the right to opt out of these activities. If you would like to exercise this opt-out right, please follow the instructions below.

    If you visit our website with the Global Privacy Control opt-out preference signal enabled, depending on where you are, we will treat this as a request to opt-out of activity that may be considered a “sale” or “sharing” of personal information or other uses that may be considered targeted advertising for the device and browser you used to visit our website.

  • Datalogging with an ALDU1
  • The ALDU1 is a simple logging cable.  It attaches to the USB port of your PC and to the ALDL logging port on your vehicle.  It allows your PC to communicate with your ECM.

    Basic Connectivity

    The ALDU1 uses a USB connection to talk to your PC.  It uses the same FTDI drivers that all of our other products use.  The first step in getting the AutoPROM working is to get your PC to recognize it.

    1. Turn on the computer you want to use with the APU1 and plug the APU1 in to a free USB port.
    2. Follow the instructions in the USB troubleshooting guide to ensure the device is recognized by Windows.
    3. Although it is mentioned in the guide above, make sure the ALDU1 is using a COM port between 1 and 8!  This is CRITICAL for some older software.
    4. The rest of the troubleshooting guides in this guide will assume that you have basic USB connectivity.

    Using the ALDU for Logging with TunerPro

    Before you will be able to log any data, you need to have the correct ADX definition file downloaded for your vehicle.  The best place to find these is the Definitions section of TunerPro’s website.

    With that said, follow these instructions to get everything set up:

    1. Make sure the ALDU1 is connected to your PC and has a COM port between 1 and 8.  It will be necessary for you to know which COM port the ALDU1 is using to configure it properly.  Consult the instructions above for ‘Basic Connectivity’ for more detailed instructions.
    2. We’re going to walk through the TunerPro RT configuration steps to use this mode.  Your ALDU1 will NOT be recognized by TunerPro RT software like an Ostrich or APU1.  If you’re not using TunerPro, skip to step 8 below.
    3. Next, make double check TunerPro’s configuration for logging.  Start by going to Tools…Preferences
    4. Next, Tab over to the Data Acq. /Emulation tab. (red arrow)  Make sure that “Use Plug-in” is selected for Interface Type.  Make sure “TunerPro Data Acquisition I/O Interface” is selected under the component drop down box.
    5. Then click the “Configure Plug-in Component” box (green arrow).
    6. Make sure that “Standard Serial” is selected (green arrow) and the COM port of your APU1 is selected (blue arrow)
    7. IF THE ALDU1 IS UNPLUGGED FROM THE VEHICLE, you should be able to click the “Test For Valid Interface Using Settings” button and get a successful result.  You will NOT get a positive test if the cable is plugged in to the vehicle.
    8. If you are NOT using TunerPro RT, you should be able to start your software of choice and configure it to use the COM port of your ALDU1 (COM2 in this example)
    9. If you have trouble connecting, check the switch on the ALDU1.  Older applications that use 160baud require the ”10k across A-B” setting.  Later TBI, LT1 and TPI applications use 8192 baud which requires the switch to be in the ”open between A-B” position.
  • Demon
  • demon1

    The Demon (or original Demon, Demon 1) pictured above  is the first of our integrated devices aimed at Honda/Acura-friendly P28/P30/P72 OBD1 ECUs. Flawless realtime emulation, embedded datalogging, auxiliary ports, 16x calibration storage and encryption.   The Demon is designed to fit inside both USDM and JDM ECUs including those with knock boards.   The Demon combines the features of the Ostrich, Hulog, RTP, and adds its own unique feature set.  The Demon requires software to specifically support many of its features – not all software support is equal.

    Ports and Connectivity

    The Demon uses the same FTDI Device drivers as the rest of the products that we sell.  The Demon a USB mini-B port for internal cable connection.  Plugging a cable from the Demon to your PC will allow your PC to communicate with the unit.

    The Demon supports additional devices through the black 4 pin add-on header, which is an option to install.  Some examples of devices that can be used are the TunerView II, TunerView RD1 and BlueTooth serial modules.   When using the 4-pin TTL with devices such as the Demon/Tunerview interface, TunerView RD1, or Bluetooth, be SURE that the pinout is:

    Demon1: 1=TX out, 2=RX in, 3= GND , 4= 5V out

    ***IMPORTANT***  The original Demon and Demon II **DO NOT** have the same pinout!  It is entirely possible for damage to occur if incorrectly pinned peripherals are plugged in to the Demon!  ***IMPORTANT***

    Please make sure you have the correct cables to support the hardware you have.  If you have any doubts, please contact us.

    If your Demon did not come with the auxiliary port installed, the following picture illustrates the correct orientation of the 4 pin right angle connector:

    demon1bt_aux

    Software Support

    As of 11/03/09 software support is as follows:
    Neptune: Full emulation+data+onboard (release)
    ecTune: Emulation+data (release)
    Crome: Emulation+data (beta)
    Please note that each Demon has a serial number – NepTune and eCtune both license a single copy of the software to a single Demon.  The exact procedure for this is different for each software package.

    Datalogging Memory

    The first production runs of Demons have 1 Mbyte memory for storing datalogging.  Current (starting around April 2010) production units have 4Mbyte memory.  Early production units can have their memory upgraded.  If you are interested in this service, purchase the Install Service item and note in the “Comments” field of your order that you would like the Demon memory upgrade.  You’ll have to send your Demon back to us – turnaround time is normally about 2 weeks.

    Switching Between Software

    You can now more easily switch among the different applications using our Config Utility for resetting the state of your Demon.

    Indicator Lights (1.8 and older firmware)

    The Demon has two LEDs to indicate its status, one red and one green.

    The red LED serves as a hardware status indicator and/or busy light.  It can come on when:

    • Demon is currently processing a command (upload/download/etc)
    • Poor / nonexistent connection between Demon and ECU 28 pin socket.  (usual cause: faulty installation)
    • Poor / nonexistent connection between Demon and ECU CN2 port.  (usual cause: cabling, cable backwards, faulty installation)
    • Demon is powered via USB but there is no power to ECU
    • NEPTUNE RTP ONLY: No serial communication between ECU and Demon
    • Red LED will blink when onboard packets are being stored to memory

    The green LED is more of a data packet and status indicator light.  It typically behaves as follows:

    • Lights up solid green when the Demon is powered on
    • Blinks when the Demon is communicating with the ECU (assuming data packets are configured correctly)
      • Fast blinking means data is flowing properly from ECU to Demon via CN2
      • Slow blinking likely means data timeout / incorrect connection/configuration

     

    Indicator Lights (1.9 and newer firmware)

    Light behavior has been changed in the new firmware.

    The red LED serves as a hardware status indicator and/or busy light.

    • Red light on solid = not receiving power from the ECU: physical connection issue to ECU
    • Red LED will blink when logging packets are being captured

    The green LED is more of a data packet and status indicator light.  It typically behaves as follows:

    • Solid green light when the Demon is powered on and all systems are go but no packets are being received
    • Green light is off when the device is busy OR Demon is powered off
    • Fast green blinks mean the Demon is receiving good datalogging packets from the ECU.

    Troubleshooting:

    • Red light onwith USB plugged in means the Demon is NOT receiving power from the ECU.
      • You will only see this condition when the Demon is being powered by USB
      • Check 28 pin socket bridge pins and connection
      • Check ECU CN2 – 4 pin port connection.  This is REQUIRED for proper Demon operation
    • Green light off means no power to ECU.  Red on / green off is expected with no power.
    • No lights at all when USB is plugged in generally is a fault condition.
      • Try removing the Demon from the ECU.  If the Red light comes on, check the chipping job and physical connections between the Demon and the ECU
  • Demon II
  • d2_in_ecu

    Introduction / Identification

    The Demon2, pictured above, is the newest in our line of Honda/Acura-friendly P28/P30/P72-compatible technology. Flawless realtime emulation, embedded datalogging, auxiliary ports, 16x calibration storage and encryption.   The Demon II is designed to fit inside only USDM ECUs.   If you have a JDM ECU, be sure to let us know when you order so we can supply an original Demon.  The Demon II combines the features of the Ostrich, Hulog, RTP, and adds its own unique feature set.  The Demon II requires software to specifically support many of its features – not all software support is equal.

    Ports and Connectivity

    The Demon II uses the same FTDI Device drivers as the rest of the products that we sell.  The Demon II has two USB ports – one standard ‘B’ port that is accessible by cutting the ECU case prior to installation and one mini-B port like prior hardware versions.  Plugging a cable from either of these ports to your PC will allow your PC to communicate with the unit.  Please do NOT plug both USB ports in at the same time.

    The Demon II supports additional devices through the black 4 pin add-on header.  Some examples of devices that can be used are the TunerView II, TunerView RD1 and BlueTooth serial modules.  ***IMPORTANT***  The original Demon and Demon II **DO NOT** have the same pinout!  It is entirely possible for damage to occur if incorrectly pinned peripherals are plugged in to the Demon II!  Please make sure you have the correct cables to support the hardware you have.  If you have any doubts, please contact us.


    If using the 4-pin TTL with devices such as the Demon/Tunerview interface, TunerView RD1, or Bluetooth, be SURE that the pinout is:

    Demon2: 1=Gnd , 2=5v supply , 3=Rx in, 4=Tx out

    Software Support

    As of 5/5/2014 software support is as follows:

    Neptune: Full emulation+data+onboard (stable)
    ecTune: Emulation+data (stable)
    Crome: Emulation+data (some versions)

    Please note that each Demon has a serial number – NepTune and eCtune both license a single copy of the software to a single Demon.  The exact procedure for this is different for each software package.

    Datalogging Memory

    Demon II units have 4Mbyte (32Mbit) memory.  This is enough for several hours of logging at full speed on all channels, with compression turned on.

    Switching Between Software

    You can now more easily switch among the different applications using our Config Utility for resetting the state of your Demon.

    Indicator Lights

    Light behavior on the Demon II is the same as the 1.9+ Demon firmware.

    The red LED serves as a hardware status indicator and/or busy light.

    • Red light on solid = not receiving power from the ECU: physical connection issue to ECU
    • Red LED will blink when logging packets are being captured

    The green LED is more of a data packet and status indicator light.  It typically behaves as follows:

    • Solid green light when the Demon is powered on and all systems are go but no packets are being received
    • Green light is off when the device is busy OR Demon is powered off
    • Fast green blinks mean the Demon is receiving good datalogging packets from the ECU.

    Troubleshooting:

    • Red light onwith USB plugged in means the Demon is NOT receiving power from the ECU.
      • You will only see this condition when the Demon is being powered by USB
      • Check 28 pin socket bridge pins and connection
      • Check ECU CN2 – 4 pin port connection.  This is REQUIRED for proper Demon operation
    • Green light off means no power to ECU.  Red on / green off is expected with no power.
    • No lights at all when USB is plugged in generally is a fault condition.
      • Try removing the Demon from the ECU.  If the Red light comes on, check the chipping job and physical connections between the Demon and the ECU
  • Dev: Hardware Interfacing Guide
  • Although our hardware uses USB connectivity, you don’t have to be a kernel level device driver programmer or any sort of expert in the USB framework to interface our devices.Our devices simply create a virtual COM port that can be written to via all sorts of methods.

    Old-school Windows programmers may be familiar with using the Windows API to play with serial ports. While this is fun, the new school .NET programmers can throw together applications in literally minutes using serialPort objects. We would love to see a C# Moates Hardware Class with all of our hardware features implemented. Unfortunately, we haven’t gotten around to doing it.

    One of the downfalls of using a virtual serial port is that customers seem to have problems remembering baud rate settings. Luckily there is a (not so simple) solution. FTDI devices can be interfaced through what is known as the D2XX API. Basically, you import functions from their unmanaged DLL and you can connect to their devices without the user ever having to select a COM port. We have begun developing a C# Class based on an example from the FTDI website, but it is far from completion.

    The following guide (MS Excel format) details the commands and expected responses for all of our devices.  If you don’t see something you need or have questions, email us.

    Download the Moates Hardware Interfacing Guide here (v19 2/11/10)

    In terms of understanding what commands are used when and how they fit together – looking at an ADX for TunerPro RT that makes use of the device is a great way to put things together.  The ADX has sections for connect, initialization, packets, etc.


    Devices with Onboard Logging

    Although the command structure is outlined in the above document, the procedure for using the onboard logging facilities of newer integrated devices is complex and the order of operations maters.  The example that will be illustrated here will be for the Demon / Demon2 but it should be more or less the same for the NEMU and have much in common with the SuperLogger.

    1. Pause for data rate (otherwise TunerPro could potentially hammer the Demon faster than it could retrieve new packets from the ECU) and limit to 10Hz (or whatever you want)
    2. DR command: setup packet = “0x44 0x52 0x0F 0x17 0x00 0x05 0x04 0x05 0x05 0x1D 0x1B 0x14 0x1E 0x15 0x05 0x05 0x20 0x10 0x11 0x12 0x13 0x05 0x05 0x16 0x22 0x1C 0x17 0x18 0x05 0x05 0x19 0x1A 0x21 0x22 0x1F” =
      1. 0x44(‘D’) 0x52(‘R’)
      2. 0x0F(ADC fetch mask = all channels)
      3. 0x17(baud rate divisor 17hex=23decimal for 38400 baud)
      4. 0x00(c=reserved)
      5. 0x05(d=reserved)
      6. 0x04(4 elements in structure, can use ‘0’ for ADC only)
      7. 0x05(5 bytes to send for first element)
      8. 0x05(five response bytes expected)
      9. 0x1D 0x1B 0x14 0x1E 0x15 (req1)
      10. 0x05 0x05 0x20 0x10 0x11 (req2)
      11. 0x12 0x13 0x05 0x05 0x16 (req3)
      12. 0x22 0x1C 0x17 0x18 0x05 (req4)
      13. 0x05 0x19 0x1A 0x21 0x22 (req5)
      14. 0x1F (checksum)
      15. expect “Okay” repsonse: 0x4f (‘O’)
    3. Send retrieve packet: 0x64 (‘d)
    4. Wait for packet of configured length (in this case: 30 bytes)

    (above section is work in progress)

     

  • Dev: Making new datalogging definitions for QuarterHorse
  • Creating definitions for datalogging with the QH is a complicated, involved process.   Regardless of which software is being used, there is a common core set of tasks that need to be done to allow meaningful real-world data to get spit out.

    Overview

    Before I get into the specifics, it probably helps to understand how the QH works a little better.

    The QH sits on the J3 port of the ECM, which is a bus connected to the processor.  On a stock ECU, both the external program memory (RAM) that stores active processor states and the internal program memory (“ROM”) which stores the strategy and calibration are present on this bus.  The QH overrides addresses on the bus allowing the processor to use RAM on the QH instead of ROM native to the ECM.  You can make changes while tuning by modifying the contents of RAM on the QH.  This is the same mechanism that F3/F5/F8 chips use to allow you change the program on the ECM.

    The QH also builds a “shadow” copy of external RAM used by the processor by passively observing communication between the processor and RAM over the J3 port.  Where things get complicated is that not all RAM can be observed by the QH – a portion of it remains internal to the processor, unable to be seen by the QH.  Patch code exists to move or copy memory addresses that we care about from memory the QH cannot see to memory the QH can access, allowing you to log these items.  To reiterate – the QH doesn’t interfere or change communication between the processor and RAM on the ECM – it just observes all transactions, building a “shadow” copy of RAM that is used to supply logging data.

    A Datalogging Definition, Dissected

    In order to understand the software tasks involved in QH communication, we are going to examine a TunerPro ADX for the CBAZA strategy.  Other software follows the same steps to initialize and log from the QH, so you can read between the lines if you’re not using TunerPro.  The TunerPro definition is open so you can download it ( here ) and follow along because the whole initialization and logging process is broken down step by step.

    Fire up TunerPro.  Load one of the existing Ford ADX files. (CBAZA.ADX)

    Go to Acquisition menu… Edit Definition

    Looking at the ADX Header Data, you will see 3 important commands:

    • Connection Command (run when you connect to datalog)
    • Monitor Command (run continuously while logging to gather data)
    • Disconnect Command (run when you disconnect)

    Next, lets examine the Connection Command closer, as it has most of the magic in it.

    Go to Commands… Configure QH for Payload.  This is a Macro command that simply executes a bunch of other commands:

    1. Pause for Data Rate (simple pause to let things settle)
    2. Write Patch Code (modify the ECU program to allow the QH to log all items – more on this later)
    3. Write Patch Response (wait for a valid response from the QH to the code modification)
    4. Config Part 1 of Q (configure the QH to watch the RAM locations we desire – more on this later)
    5. Config Reply to Q (make sure QH gives a valid response to the configure command)

    Step #2 writes the patch code needed to move things we care about from private internal RAM to RAM the QH can snoop on.  This patch code is UNIQUE to each strategy.  It must be hand-crafted by someone with knowledge of the internal workings of the ford processor.

    Step #4 configures which bytes of RAM the QH is monitoring.  The bytes used are unique to each strategy and are also dependent on how the patch code is written.

    Continuing, logging happens by the Harvest Data Macro.

    1. Pause for Data Rate (this controls how fast the QH logs data, in hertz)
    2. Query (retrieve a frame of data, as configured by Config Part 1 of Q command)
    3. Data Packet (retrieve a packet.  fixed size is used here because the same packet is always configured by the Config Part 1 of Q command)

    Datalogging values are defined relative to their spot in the packet you’ve requested in the format specified by the Config Part 1 of Q command.  Same deal for bitmasks.  Formulas for turning raw data into real world values can vary but are generally at least somewhat consistent among ECMs of comparable generations.

    Summary

    If you want to make a datalogging definition for a processor, you’re going to need to:

    • disassemble the code well enough to pinpoint RAM locations for things you care to log.
    • For any items that are stored in ram locations 0x0000 through 0x0100 (EECIV) and 0x0000 through 0x0400 (EECV ??? need to verify, may be different for 2 vs. 4 bank.  You can generally tell because private locations will always return the same data), you are going to need to write patch code to relocate these items to blank/unused space.  You can relocate items to either RAM or “ROM” space (because the QH gives read-write access via the J3 port to “ROM” locations stored in RAM on the QH) but you need to make sure NOTHING ELSE IS USING THE ADDRESS SPACE.  If you use RAM or “ROM” that is already in use for other things, you will end up with a processor that does not run properly!!!
    • build a definition including the patch code you’ve come up with
    • create an initialization macro for the QH specifying which RAM addresses need to be included in each data packet, using both stock and patch-code-remapped locations
    • do some analysis to come up with formulas for converting from raw values to real world data
    • build the data values using the formulas you’ve come up with and the packet structure you’ve specified with the QH initialization packet

    I know that’s a lot to chew on, but the QH isn’t exactly a simple tool…  You can find more information about QH command structure by reading the Hardware Interfacing guide.  We’re always excited to have more people getting involved in the task of building definitions so feel free to email us if you get confused or stuck.

    Memory Addressing – EECIV

    Note: these addresses are for the QH’s addressing scheme.  If you want to use the 16 bit addressing of the ECU, lop off the MSB of 0x03 present in each one.  Ever wonder why chips get programmed from 0x032000 to 0x03FFFF ?

    0x03 00 00 – bottom of memory
    0x03 00 FF – top of internal 8061 MCU memory
    0x03 01 00 – start of xram/others
    0x03 1F FF – end of externally addressable memory
    0x03 20 00 – start of ROM
    0x03 FF FF – end of ROM

    This PDF should be very helpful for understanding what is going on. (thanks Tom Cloud)

    Tools

    CATS Disassembler – a disassembler which can be used for the processor found in EEC-IV

  • Discounts for Shops, Resellers, and Group Buys
  • Shops and Resellers:
     
    If you are interested in purchasing Moates.Net products in bulk, or would like to be a reseller of our products, the following discount structure is available to you:
     
    10% off for 10 - 19 pieces more of a given item
    15% off for 20 - 49
    20% off for 50 - 99 and
    25% off for 100+ units
     
    NOTE!
    This discount can be applied retroactively as well for a 12 month rolling total. For instance, if you buy 5 units at regular price of $20 each and then later on purchase 6 more units in a 12 month period at $20 each, then a discount will be applied to the total so you'll get a partial refund of 10% on all 11 units, or $22.
     
    Furthermore, if you subsequently purchase 12 more units, you will be eligible for the 15% price break on all 23 units, giving you an additional $47 off. The total net discount on ALL same items purchased in a 12 month rolling period would effectively be 15%.  We chose a 12 month rolling time period instead of a calendar year so you won't lose your discount if you buy in December and then more in January.
     
    This may seem confusing, and it does add to order processing complexity on our side. However, it is designed to lower the risk level for entry-level shops and resellers. You don't need a big buy-in, since the retroactive discount structure takes care of you!
     
    This discount structure is not valid for small incremental orders (one part here, one part there), and does not apply to individual drop shipments. Instead, it is limited to quantity orders of 3 or more pieces at a time going to the same destination. So if you buy 3 units and 8 units, then you get the 10% discount on all 11. If you then buy 1 separate unit separately, the 1 separate unit doesn't get the discount and doesn't count toward the total accumulation for bulk retroactive discount.The reason for this is that the 1 piece at a time approach still requires all of the administrative order processing burden on our side, and part of the reason for bulk discounts is that it is easier for us to ship quantities of units than shipping them individually.
     
     
    Group buys:
     
     Pre-arranged group buys are available. The same normal discount structure as described for bulk discounts applies based on the number of participants, but the minimum individual order quantity of 3 isn't required.
     
    Any purchase made on the website or over the phone under a group buy situation should be CLEARY INDICATED, preferably in the comments section of the order. That way we know what to do with it.
     
    For example, one group buy coordinator will contact us ahead of time and initiate the group buy period (up to two weeks in duration). We will agree on the close-out date for the group purchase.
     
    If the coordinator wants to have all of the units shipped to them and then distribute them to the individual purchasers, then it will be handled no differently than a standard bulk discount situation.
     
    If the buyers decide to pay for the units individually at our webstore and have them shipped separately to each buyer, then that is also fine. In this case, full price will be charged initially. At the close of the group buy, a discount will be applied as a partial refund to each participant separately.
     
    The total discount will depend on the total number of participants. So for 10-19 it'd be 10% and for 20-49 it'll be 15%. We usually don't know how many participants are involved until the close of the group buy period, so that's why the partial refund / discount is delayed until that time.
     
     
    Hope this helps!
     
  • eCtune
  • eCtune is a ROM Editor available for Hondas. It is written by Calvin Baank and has an exhaustive list of features.

    eCtune has very structured licensing. It is important to note that most eCtune tunes will only work when run off the Ostrich or Demon. This means a separate Ostrich must be present in each car you tune with eCtune. (For all you CROME guys, there is no more burning chips and walking away)

    At the end of the day, if you want to drive 5 cars at the same time, you will need 5 Ostrii.

    There is also a dealer version available, contact eCtune for more information.

    For more information on eCtune, visit the eCtune website here

    NOTE: We do NOT sell or directly support eCtune.  You must purchase your software licenses and receive support directly from eCtune!  This page is provided for information only.

  • EECEditor
  • EECEditor is a ROM Editor for many Ford vehicles.

  • EFI Live hard reset of Roadrunner
  •  
    Performing a Hard Reset on the Roadrunner with EFI Live
     
    When you set up a Roadrunner in a vehicle, you will often need to force a 'hard reset' of the Roadrunner PCM. This is particularly true if you are using a custom OS or changing OS type.
     
    For using EFI Live, perform the following:
     
    1) Connect the Roadrunner, and turn the vehicle ignition on or power the PCM on the bench. The PCM must be powered up for this to be effective.
     
    2) Open up the software, and get the EFI Live Roadrunner Control Panel. Make sure the Roadrunner serial number is being displayed.
     
    3) Upload the whole new Operating System and Calibration from the PC *.tun file to the Roadrunner device.
     
    4) Select the "Execute from PCM Flash Memory (if equipped)" option (two chips with arrows in between). This will turn the Roadrunner emulation 'off' in order to blank out the PCM RAM when the memory read faults. The software should display 'Flash' as the mode of operation.
     
    5) Re-select the button, this time selecting the 'Emulation' mode of operation.
     
    6) Turn the key or power to the PCM off, wait 10 seconds, and turn it back on.
     
    7) If you like, at this point you can open the EFI Live ScanTool software (make sure cable is connected and vehicle is on). You will probably want to scan for codes and DTCs, and clear them all as appropriate.
     
    8) Start the vehicle briefly (1-2 seconds) and then shut power back off. This is primarily to reset the idle relearn, so it typically not an issue with the drive-by-wire configurations.
     
    9) You should now be able to restart the PCM and vehicle, and things should work as expected if you are using a valid *.tun file.
     
    This procedure will also help if you have suffered tune corruption.
     
    If you have any questions, contact EFI Live or Moates technical support and they'll be glad to help further.
     
     
  • EFI Live: Requesting a VIN license
  • EFI Live Commercial Scan and Tune comes with two VIN licenses. To tune more vehicles, you must provide us some information when you purchase VIN or stream licenses.

    Requesting a New License

    1. Plug in your EFI Live FlashScan handheld to your laptop.  Its display should be lit up.
    2. Double click on the “EFILive V7.5 Tune Tool” icon to start the software.  If you do not have this on your desktop, go to the “Start” menu and find it under the EFI Live program group.
      EFI Live Tune Tool
    3. Go to the “Help” menu and select “FlashScan V2 / AutoCal V2 VIN Licensing…”  help_vinlicensing
    4. We need two pieces of information from here.  #1 – WE NEED YOUR SERIAL NUMBER.  You can click the “Copy” button to copy it to the clipboard.
      copy_serial
    5. Once it has been copied, open up an email to us (or the Comments section of your order) and press Control-V (or right click + select paste).  Doing things this way ensure you don’t make a typo.
      comments_serial
    6. Next, click the “Authenticate” table towards the bottom of this window.
      select_authenticate
    7. On the “Authenticate” tab is another important piece of information we need, the Auth Code.  Click “Copy” to copy the Auth Code to the clipboard.
      copy_auth
    8. Go back to your email to us / comments for your order.  Hit Control-V again to paste your Auth Code
      comments_serial_auth
    9. That’s it!  Go ahead and submit your Serial + Auth with your order.  If you forget to do so, you can email it to support@moates.net

    Installing a License Key

    After you’ve paid for your licenses, you need to use the information we give you to add them to your EFI Live handheld.

    1. Plug in your EFI Live FlashScan handheld to your laptop.  Its display should be lit up.
    2. Double click on the “EFILive V7.5 Tune Tool” icon to start the software.  If you do not have this on your desktop, go to the “Start” menu and find it under the EFI Live program group.
      EFI Live Tune Tool
    3. Go to the “Help” menu and select “FlashScan V2 / AutoCal V2 VIN Licensing…”
      help_vinlicensing
    4. Decision time: What did you purchase?
      • If you purchased an Upgrade to Dodge (from Chevy only) select “Upgrade” (blue)
      • If you purchased a Stream license for unlimited VINs of a certain type of vehicle, select “Add Stream” (yellow)
      • If you purchased a VIN License(s) select “Add VIN” (green)
        license_options
    5. Look at the email you will have received from us and find the important information.  Activation Code (Red) Number of licenses purchased (yellow)  Total license ount (green)

      moates_license_email

    6. Enter the Activation code you should have received in the box and click “Add”.   If you’re entering VIN Licenses, you need to adjust the license number before clicking “Add”.  To do this:
      • Look at the license screen to the right and count the number of licenses in use currently. (4 in the pictured example)
      • Add the number of licenses purchased to the number of licenses in use
      • Set the ‘License number’ to this value.

        enter_info

    7. You should see a message informing you that the change was successful.
      success
    8. You should see the new licenses available for use.
      success_newlicenses

  • EFI Live with RTACS Realtime
  • Notes from EFI Live's Paul Blackmore regarding using the auto-tuning feature of EFI Live with Moates hardware:
     
    1. Check both axis of the VE table in the tuning tool to make sure the MAP and RPM headings (the ones colored sky-blue) have link PIDs associated with them. The link PIDs are usually displayed as {Link:

    SAE.MAP} and {Link: SAE.RPM}.

    2. Check that the units displayed for the MAP link pid are exactly the same as the units specified in the Scan Tool for that PID.

    You can change the units of the VE table's MAP axis using the menu

    option: Edit->Configure display units...

    You can change the units of the MAP PID in the Scan Tool by displaying the [PIDS F8] tab page, right clicking on the SAE.MAP PID and selecting Imperial or Metric so that it matches the units in the VE table.

    3. Make sure you start logging (red button) or monitoring (yellow button) in the Scan Tool. Otherwise real-time data will not be sent to the tuning tool's VE table and RTACS will not work.

    4. Make sure the cells you want RTACS to update are not "protected".

    Protected cells are displayed with a white background.

    5. Set the accuracy in the [RTACS] tab page of the VE table to 0. That will turn off EFILive's auto protect feature when EFILive "thinks" the cells are accurate enough.

    6. Make sure the Col, Row and BEN factor PID values are displayed and upadting with the exepeted values in the [RTACS] tab page of the VE table.

    7. Make sure the min and max RTACS limits in the [RTACS] tab page of the VE table are set far enough apart so that values can be modified.

    8. Make sure the "RTACS is NOT active" changes to "RTACS is active" when you expect RTACS to be working.
     
     
    Here's more text from a recent email:
     

    The most important part of the RR auto tune is to make sure the calculated BEN factor PID you are using is correctly calculating the error between the commanded v's actual (i.e. wideband measured) AFR. The error is displayed as a numerical value that represents the percentage error between the two values.

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    The BEN factor is calculated as (actual AFR) divided by (commanded AFR).

    A value of 1.00 indicates that the commanded AFR matches the actual AFR

    A value less than 1 indicates that the actual AFR is less than the commanded AFR by the fractional part of the value. i.e. if the value was 0.95, then the difference is 5%, if the value was 0.90 then the difference is 10%, if the value was 0.87 then the difference is 13% etc.

    A value greater than 1 indicates that the actual AFR is greater than the commanded AFR by the fractional part of the value. i.e. if the value was 1.05, then the difference is 5%, if the value was 1.10 then the difference is 10%, if the value was 1.13 then the difference is 13% etc.

    The RTACS software multiplies the existing VE value by a percentage of the BEN factor, the percentage is based on coarse/fine settings.

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    When the border turns red that indicates that the logged data is currently being discarded because it did not pass the filter(s) that you have in place.

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    You should also make sure the PCM is operating is open loop to prevent the PCM from fighting against you and adjusting the long/short term fuel trims while you are trying to tune. You can force open loop by increasing all values in B4205 (Closed Loop Temp Enable) to greater than the coolant temp will ever get. That will prevent the PCM from entering closed loop.
     
    Hope this helps!
  • EFILive
  • Emulation Cables
  • Emulation cables link our emulators to a target device.  The Ostrich, Ostrich2 and APU1 all use a similar style emulation cable.  The design of this cable has not changed in many years.  Four standard “shelf” cables are available:

    • EMUC2818 is the standard cable supplied with the Ostrich, Ostrich2 and APU1 emulators.  It has a 28 pin chip side (“28″) and is 18” long (“18”) hence EMUC2818
    • EMUC2806 is a shorter cable (6″) with a 28 pin chip socket.  It is useful for situations where there is interference with the standard length cable.
    • EMUC3206 is a short (6″) cable with a 32 pin chip socket.  When used with an Ostrich2 it allows emulation of a 29F040 4Mbit EPROM.  Adapters can be used to change this to PLCC or other formats.  This cable is NOT compatible with the Ostrich 1, APU1 or ChipExtender – Ostrich2 ONLY!
    • EMUC2836 is an extra-long (36″) cable with a 28 pin chip socket.  It is NOT for use with emulators.  This cable is only intended to be used with the ChipExtender product we sell.  Unpredictable results can happen when used with emulators.

    The RoadRunner uses an alternative emulation cable which is incompatible with other devices.

     

    Ostrich and APU1 Emulation cables

    The Ostrich, Ostrich 2 and APU1 all use the same emulation cables.  These cables have a 0.1″ pitch rectangular connector on one end.  On the other end, a male chip connector is crimped.  Before shipping the cable, we install a machined-pin socket on the cable to protect the more fragile chip connector.

    This is how one of the cables looks when we ship it:

    emuc_assembled

    As you can see, you can remove the 28 pin machined-pin socket on this cable if necessary:

    emuc_apart

    Replacing a MP socket is much easier and cheaper than replacing a whole emulation cable!

     

    RoadRunner Emulation cables

    The roadrunner uses unique cables designed to connect RR hardware with a soldered-on POSOP44 pin header.  Typically, two of these cables must be connected back-to-back for proper operation.

    More will follow.

  • EmUtility: standalone emulator control
  • Ever wish your favorite Moates emulator would work with your favorite ROM editor software that doesn’t have native support for our products?  EmUtility (from the author of TunerPro) allows you to use Moates emulators with any software that can spit out a binary (bin) or hexadecimal (hex) format file.  It supports the Ostrich1, Ostrich2, APU1 *and* RoadRunner!  It can even support more than one emulator connected to the same computer simultaneously. (this requires more than one instance of the program, one for each emu)

    Installation

    You can get EmUtility from the Utilities section of TunerPro.net

    EmUtility may require additional files to be installed for it to work, specifically the Microsoft Visual C redistributable libraries, which  are also linked off the Utilities section of TunerPro.net

    EmUtility does not come with an installer – it is shipped as a zip file with a single program file inside.  Unzip it to place where you will be able to easily find it, such as your desktop.  You can run it directly from the desktop and it will not make a “mess” because it is only one file.

    Usage

    EmUtility is pretty straightforward to use.

    First, start the program.  You should see “Detecting Hardware… Ostrich 2.0 blah blah blah” for instance.  If you see “No Hardware Detected” check your cables and connections.  If you cannot get your hardware to detect, try looking at our USB Troubleshooting Guide.

    After you have verified that your hardware has been detected properly, click the “…” next to “Input / Output File” to select a file to use.  (If you are going to read the contents of the emulator to a file, this can be a new file)

    Next select an operation from the drop down box next to “Operation”  Valid operations include:

    • Read from emulator to file = creates a new file on your computer with the contents of emulator RAM.  Must specify a filename, how much memory you want read (size), if you want to use a non-standard start address (File Start Address)  and if you want to use large RAM support (required for files > 512kbit / 64k byte)
    • Write from file to emulator = updates the RAM on your emulator with the contents of a file on your computer.  Must specify a filename  and if you want to use large RAM support (required for files > 512kbit / 64k byte).  File size and start address will be automatically selected for you and will be correct in most cases where your file is the same size as the chip you are trying to emulate.  (i.e. 32k byte file for 27C256 chip)
    • Verify emulator RAM with file = compares the contents of the Emulator’s RAM with a file on your computer to see if they match.  Must specify a filename  and if you want to use large RAM support (required for files > 512kbit / 64k byte).  File size and start address will be automatically selected for you and will be correct in most cases where your file is the same size as the chip you are trying to emulate.  (i.e. 32k byte file for 27C256 chip)
    • Monitor File for changes and upload = this operation monitors a file for changes and uploads the changes to your emulator as they happen. ust specify a filename  and if you want to use large RAM support (required for files > 512kbit / 64k byte).  File size and start address will be automatically selected for you and will be correct in most cases where your file is the same size as the chip you are trying to emulate.  (i.e. 32k byte file for 27C256 chip)

    After you have selected and configued the operation you desire, click “Execute” to perform it.  To cancel a monitoring+upload session or other op, click “Cancel Op”

    That’s it!

    Suggested Uses

    If you have a program that can spit out bin files but it does not support Moates hardware:

    1. Start EmUtility
    2. Pick “Write from file to Emulator”
    3. Point EmUtility at the file you are working with
    4. Click “Execute” to load the initial file
    5. Change the operation to “Monitor file for changes and upload”
    6. Click “Execute” to begin monitoring the file for changes
    7. Leave EmUtility running in the background.  Go back to your editing application.  Make changes and save the file (with the same filename).  As you save changes to the file, EmUtility will copy them to your emulator almost instantly!

    Nissan 16 bit applications with TunerPro 4.x: (using a daughterboard like our Nissan 20×2 that takes two identical chips and two Ostrich 2.0 emulators)

    1. Plug in ONE Ostrich and follow the directions immediately above to set up monitoring for an application that does not support Moates hardware.
    2. Leave EmUtility running and connect the second Ostrich.
    3. Start TunerPro.  It should detect your second Ostrich.
    4. Start your emulation session in TunerPro.
    5. Tune away.  TunerPro will update one Ostrich, EmUtility will update the other

    (Note: TunerPro 5.x supports dual Ostrich mode which is easier to set up than this)

    16 bit Nissan applications such as 925style.com’s ROM  EDITOR (using a daughterboard like our Nissan 20×2 that takes two identical chips and two Ostrich 2.0 emulators)

    1. Plug in ONE Ostrich and follow the first set of directions above to set up monitoring for an application that does not support Moates hardware.
    2. Leave EmUtility running and connect the second Ostrich.
    3. Start a SECOND COPY of EmUtility.  It should detect your second Ostrich.
    4. Repeat the instructions for loading a binary and starting monitoring in the second EmUtility session
    5. Tune away!  As you save changes to the file, each instance of EmUtility will update one emulator.

    Using the RoadRunner as a general purpose 16 bit emulator with software that does not have native support (i.e. Bosch Motronic 28Fxxx):

    1. Start EmUtility
    2. Pick “Write from file to Emulator”
    3. Point EmUtility at the file you are working with
    4. Click “Execute” to load the initial file
    5. Change the operation to “Monitor file for changes and upload”
    6. Click “Execute” to begin monitoring the file for changes
    7. Leave EmUtility running in the background.  Go back to your editing application.  Make changes and save the file (with the same filename).  As you save changes to the file, EmUtility will copy them to your emulator almost instantly!
  • End Of Life Products
  • While we try to produce and support products for as long as we can, we can’t continue to make things forever.  Often, product changes are prompted by the components required to build a product no longer being available for us to purchase (“End Of Life” / EOL) – if we can’t buy the chips needed to build stuff, we can’t sell the product to you.  As a rule of thumb, our limited lifetime warranty will cover any products that we’re currently still manufacturing – we will replace any defective units with a new unit from stock.  If we revise, upgrade or otherwise change a product we will generally offer the upgraded/replacement product via warranty service for a limited time, usually at least six months to a year.  After a product has no longer been manufactured for some time, free replacements may stop at our discretion.

    This page serves to document some products that are no longer in production and what their current status is. NOTE: This is older information, and many products have been revived and are again available! Please check shop stock levels to determine what is currently being made.

    • QuarterHorse version 1 (soldered battery): EOL Date 12/31/2019.  After this time, there will be a $100 charge to upgrade to the current model with a removable battery and improved keep-alive power supervisor circuit which runs off power supplied to the ECM key-off.  Please use the Please use the “Express RMA” instructions here and explain that you’re doing trade-in program in the ‘Comments’ of the RMA order.  If you want to replace the battery yourself, you can order a battery (Panasonic BR2330A/GAN) but be warned that you will need proper tools to desolder and replace the old one.  It’s not hard to do with the right tools and skills and extremely challenging if you’re not used to working on circuit boards.  If you butcher a QH trying to replace the battery yourself, there will be no warranty repairs related to the battery circuit.
    • Demon1: EOL Date 1/1/2018.  Demon1 units that fail can be replaced with Demon2 units for $124.50 (half retail price)  Any Neptune license can be transferred to new hardware.  Please use the “Express RMA” instructions here and explain that you’re doing trade-in program in the ‘Comments’ of the RMA order.  If your unit has a dead battery, you can just order a battery (Panasonic BR2330A/GAN) but be warned that you will need proper tools to desolder and replace the old one – it’s about as difficult as chipping an ECU.
    • Neptune RTP: EOL Date 1/1/2014. Original Neptune RTP boards that fail can be replaced with Demon2 units for $124.50 (half retail price).  Neptune license can be transferred to new hardware.  Please use the “Express RMA” instructions here and explain that you’re doing trade-in program in the ‘Comments’ of the RMA order.  There are no spares available for repair of these boards due to parts going EOL.
    • Ostrich 1.0: EOL Date 1/1/2018.  Ostrich 1 units that fail can be replaced with current Ostrich 2 for $87.50 (half retail price)  Please use the “Express RMA” instructions here and explain that you’re doing trade-in program in the ‘Comments’ of the RMA order.
    • BURN1: EOL Date 1/1/2018.  BURN1 units that fail can be replaced with BURN2 for $42.50 (half retail price)  Please use the “Express RMA” instructions here and explain that you’re doing trade-in program in the ‘Comments’ of the RMA order.
    • F8: EOL Date 1/1/2018  This product is no longer available and will never be made again.  Please contact us for options in the event of a failure.  Please use the “Express RMA” instructions here and explain that you’re doing trade-in program in the ‘Comments’ of the RMA order.
    • F3: EOL Date 1/1/2018  This product is no longer available and will never be made again.  Units that fail will be replaced with F3v2 chips for $37.50 (half off retail)  Please use the “Express RMA” instructions here and explain that you’re doing trade-in program in the ‘Comments’ of the RMA order.
    • F2: EOL Date 1/1/2014  This product is no longer available and will never be made again. Units that fail will be replaced with F3v2 chips for $37.50 (half off retail)  Please use the “Express RMA” instructions here and explain that you’re doing trade-in program in the ‘Comments’ of the RMA order.
    • G3: EOL Date 1/1/2018 This product is no longer available.  Comparable functionality can be made by using a GX and G1 together.
    • AT29C256: EOL Date 5/24/2006.  This product is no longer available.  Please use C2 SST27SF512 as replacement.
    • CABL2:  EOL Date 7/1/2019.  This product is no longer available.  There are no replacements.  TunerCat sell a compatible unit.
    • APU1: EOL Date 4/1/2022.  This product is no longer available.  We have no stock.  We cannot get parts to build more.  Ostrich2, BURN2, ALDU1+CABL1 do almost the same thing.
    • Ostrich2: EOL Date 4/26/2022.  We cannot get parts to build more.  There is no immediate replacement.
    • NEMU/Nismotronic: EOL Date 5/1/2022.  We cannot get parts to build more.  There is no planned replacement.
  • External Links
  • Here is a collection of useful links. They include vendor websites, informational resources, and related content.

    Feel free to explore these links at the following location:
    List of External Links
  • F3
  • The F3 is a simple chip for EEC-based Ford ECUs allowing the stock program to be replaced with a tune of your choice.

    To install, simply clean contacts of the EEC connector with carb cleaner and a mild abrasive such as scotchbrite or 220+ grit sandpaper, and slide the module on.

    It is critical that the vehicle is fully off before installing or removing anything on the J3 port.  Failure to power-off the ECM correctly can result in frying our hardware, your ECM or both!!!  If you have any doubts at all, remove the keys from the ignition 100% or disconnect the battery.  WARNING WARNING WARNING!

    Tunes can be loaded through the via the Jaybird or Burn1 /2 and FA (F2A) adapter.  Flash n BurnTunerPro RTBinary Editor, EEC Editor (and others?) software can be used to program these chips.

    Switching Setup

    The F3 can optionally store two programs and switch between them.  You can even switch between them while the vehicle is running.  The F3 adapter has a switch pin.  If you connect this switch pin to chassis ground, the program will switch too.  In order to program the second program you must ground the switcher line while programming!!! There is a ground pad provided next to the switcher pad for your convenience – a paperclip works wonders for programming.  (FYI – Dave often uses this for nitrous – regular NA program in one half of F3, program with a couple degrees of timing and/or more fuel in the other slot, wire the program switch wire to the nitrous solenoid – see diagram)

    Take a look at this picture to get an idea of what you need to do:

    One thing to be careful of when you are wiring your F3 for switching: NEVER NEVER NEVER connect your switch wire to 12V!!!  You will instantly fry the F3 if it sees more than about ~5volts.

    The safe way to “flip” your F3 on an external signal (like nitrous) is to switch the GROUND side of your solenoid (i.e. wire to constant 12v, give the system a ground to trigger) and wire the F3’s switcher to your switched ground.

    If this is not an option and you want to have a 12volt signal trigger your F3 to “flip,” you need to add a simple relay or reed switch as in the following diagram:


  • F3v2
  • f3v2_v01F2v2_v02

     

    Overview

    The F3v2 is a simple chip for EEC-based Ford ECUs (~86-04) allowing the stock program to be replaced with a tune of your choice.  This unit was introduced in 2016 and replaces the prior F3 chip, which was discontinued due to parts needed to manufacture it no longer being available.

    Chips are supplied blank and must be programmed prior to installation.  To install, simply clean contacts of the EEC connector with carb cleaner and a mild abrasive such as scotchbrite or 220+ grit sandpaper, and slide the module on.

    It is critical that the vehicle is fully off before installing or removing anything on the J3 port.  Failure to power-off the ECM correctly can result in frying our hardware, your ECM or both!!!  If you have any doubts at all, remove the keys from the ignition 100% or disconnect the battery.  WARNING WARNING WARNING!

    Tunes can be loaded through the via the Jaybird or Burn1 /2 and FA (F2A) adapter.  Flash n Burn, TunerPro RT, Binary Editor, EEC Editor (and other?) software can be used to program these chips.

    *IMPORTANT* Firmware 5.15 (or higher) is required on Jaybird / BURN1  / BURN2 to program these chips!  You can visit the firmware update page if necessary.

    Switching Setup

    The F3v2 supports up to 8 programs.  The normal way to use this functionality is to buy the Rotary Switch which plugs into the black 4 pin connector on the module.  Simply turn the dial to change position on the chip – this works to select a program for the vehicle to run off of and also to select a slot to program with the Jaybird/BURN2.

    Things to remember:

    • Turn the dial to the spot you want to program before programming.
    • “Erase chip” will only erase the current active slot, not all positions.
    • You can verify each slot with the tune you desire after programming.  This is a very good idea before actually installing the chip.
    • Changing tunes while the engine is running is safe IF you do not change code!
      • No code patches! BAD
      • No strategy changes! BAD
      • Same strategy, different calibration, A-OK.
      • Remember: change calibration not code!

     

    Manual Switching

    Like its F3 predecessor, it is possible to manually switch between programs with the F3v2.

    Couple things to remember:

    • At our sole discretion, custom wiring for switching may void your warranty.
    • The connector is a Molex latching 4 pin 0.1″ header with male pins, very common.  You can buy a latching 4 pin female header from the usual sources or buy short cables from us to cut up.
    • Do NOT feed voltage into the F3v2!!!  GROUND ONLY!
    • The 4 pin header consists of GND, A2, A1, A0. Whenever possible, use the GND provided on the header NOT a chassis ground!
    • “1” (high, floating, open, unconnected) is the default state.  “0” (GND) on a pin changes that address bit
    • Tunes are binary format, i.e. 000, 001, 010, 011, 100, 101, 110, 111.  “0” on the switch is generally “111” and “8” on the switch is generally “000”
    • If you use a switch or otherwise to ground pins automatically (nitrous?) to switch tunes while the vehicle is running, you must also remember to ground the same pin(s) during programming.

    F3v2 switchin

     

    Data Masking and Manual Selections

    In addition to supporting 8 independent tunes, the F3v2 adds manual masking control.  It is very unlikely that you will ever need to use this, but we’re documenting it anyway.  This is an advanced feature and you should only use it if you know what you are doing.  Incorrect use of this feature can make an otherwise correctly programmed chip cause fault mode operation as would happen if an invalid tune is loaded or worse.  You have been warned.

    While you use 256k bin files (0x00000 -> 0x3FFFF) to program the F3v2, the whole memory area isn’t visible to the ECM.  The memory area has other things in it like RAM, I/O and stuff other than code and calibration.  If the F3v2 were to “answer” over the entire address range called out by the ECM, it would effectively crash the system because the brain of the ECM wouldn’t be able to communicate with other necessary peripherals.  By default, the F3v2 doesn’t respond in certain memory areas in order to let other devices answer on those addresses.  This allows the tune to be changed (addresses it answers to) and other peripherals to communicate in the same memory space (addresses it doesn’t answer to).  These areas aren’t the same for EECIV-32k, EECIV-56k, EECV 2 bank and EECV 4 bank (the 3 possible memory layouts) so it can’t just run a hard-coded set of addresses and work on 86-04 vehicles.  The F3v2 chip has logic to try and automatically detect which memory addresses it should answer on and which ones it shouldn’t.  We’d like to think it gets things right most of the time but you can manually control some aspects of the masking behavior if you think it is necessary.

    One important piece of information regarding this: if you PROGRAM a F3v2, all masking will be disabled until you power cycle (i.e. unplug from programmer) the chip.  After a write operation, you will always be able to read the entire 256k address space, regardless of jumper settings!  This is done to ensure that any program written to the chip can be verified in its entirety.  In order to see how masking affects the data presented, you MUST power cycle the chip.  Doing a read after power cycling a chip may present different data and fail a “verify” operation depending on the original contents programmed to the chip.  After power cycling the chip, any data in masked regions will be read as “FF” instead of the data originally programmed in order to be compatible with the Ford EEC memory bus.

    There are two jumpers on the underside of the F3v2:

    f3v2_jumpers

    For sake of discussion, we’re going to call these “inner” and “outer” as they are not labelled on the circuit board.  In this picture, the “Outer” jumper has been soldered to bridge it and the “Inner” jumper is still open.  (Open = factory setting)

    Each of these jumpers controls masking a specific region of memory.  When they are soldered, the F3v2 will always present the data you are programming.  When they are not soldered, the F3v2 autodetection logic is active.

     

    The “Inner” jumper controls presenting the region from 0x01E000 -> 0x01FFFF.

    • Not 100% sure on use case for this but it’s there. I’m thinking manual EECV-2bank selection perhaps?

    The “Outer” jumper controls presenting the region from 0x03FF00 -> 0x03FFFF.

    • This is the “top” of the single bank used in EECIV and is known to be used by the CBAZA strategy, in which case it would need to be passed through for all settings in the tune to work on the chip.  F3 (first gen) chip adapters had a “bug” when used on CBAZA applications where some settings wouldn’t work – this is why.  Autodetection logic *should* catch the EECIV use case and pass this memory region through but this jumper allows manual control should it be necessary.
    • In EECV 4 bank applications(and maybe EECV2 bank – I’m not sure), this memory area has a special name – the VID block.  The VID block is used to store vehicle-specific settings such as but not limited to VIN, PATS security keys, rear end ratio, tire size and more.  The default behavior of the F3v2 chip is to “pass through” the information programmed in the factory VID block regardless of the data programmed in the chip.  This has been the “standard” behavior for most Ford chips on the market.  If you wished to override the contents of the factory VID block with a F3v2 chip, you would need to solder the outer jumper.  Make sure that you have programmed the chip with a valid VID block from 0x03FF00 -> 0x03FFFF if you solder this jumper!  Failure to do so will cause PATS-equipped vehicles to not start due to invalid anti-theft system data.
    • The picture above shows this jumper soldered to override masking in the 0x03FF00 -> 0x03FFFF region.
  • Fake 27SF512 Chips!
  • We’re Seeing Lots of Fake Chips!

    TLDR: If it seems too good to be true, it probably is too good to be true.  If the seller is in China and the chips cost less than $3 each, they’re probably fake.

    Update March 2014:  This is now totally out of control.  Less than 10% of the results searching eBay for “SST27SF512” were genuine chips.  They’re now coming in all sorts of shapes, sizes, markings.  The majority of these chips are ONE TIME PROGRAMMABLE chips that have been re-marked to look like the erasable and re-usable SST chips – this means you can program them, ONCE.  After that, the chips will never erase or program again.  Real SST27SF512 chips can be erased and re-used hundreds if not thousands of times.

    Increasingly often, we’ve been seeing problems programming chips with the BURN1/BURN2/APU1 because of COUNTERFEIT CHIPS!!!  The 27SF512 chips are no longer being made and have not been in production for quite some time.  (~Aug2009)  I guess we shouldn’t be surprised that counterfeits of these popular chips are now common because Moates purchased the entire final production run of these chips, leaving nothing but counterfeits for other vendors to sell.

    Bottom line: If the SST27SF512 chips you purchased did not come from Moates.net, Xenocron.com or one of our other re-sellers, they are probably fake because the legitimate supply of new chips from SST was sold years ago.

    Identifying Real Chips

    Fortunately, most of these counterfeit chips are fairly easy to spot:

    • Most use a white silkscreen print on the top of the chip NOT the laser-etched found on the real deal chips.
    • Most have printing on the bottom of the chip instead of  ‘TAIWAN’ embossed in a circle.

    Here are some pretty decent pictures of a GENUINE chip for comparison: (click images for full-size)

    Fake Chip Gallery

    As we receive more pictures from our users of fake chips, we will post them here.

    Note the size and placement of the round “dimples” on this fake chip.  Note the whitish silkscreened letters instead of the laser-etched letters.  This is not a real 27SF512 chip.

    Note the size of the “dimples” on the bottom of this fake chip.  Note the writing in the center of the chip.  Note the absence of “TAIWAN” in one dimple and the chip ID in the other.  This is not a real SST27SF512 chip.

    I’ve seen at least two examples of this fake chip in the past month. (October 2013) They seem to be circulating ebay.  Again, there is a printed NOT laser-etched top, easy to spot and tell:

    fakesst1

     

    And “TAIWAN” should not be printed in big letters on the bottom:

    fakesst2

  • FAQ -> Typical Questions & Issues
  • Moates.net F.A.Q

    Last updated 2-03-06
    Autoprom | ALDU1 | Burn1 | F1 | F2/F3 | F2E


    GM tuning Frequently asked questions

    You can use the ALDU1 and CABL2 together for both datalogging and reprogramming. Just get you a free trial version of TTS DataMaster and then get you a copy of TunerCat with the proper definition.

    Do I need an adapter to get the chip to fit in my TBI ECM?

    For chip swaps on your TBI computer, you'll probably want to use the G2 adapter. Most folks use an S2 socket snapped into it along with the C1 chip. They're pretty easy to install, or I can do it for you. The chip you're looking at comes out of that little plastic holder. Squeeze it gently from the sides, and then use like a jeweler's screwdriver to lift the legs away from the sides of the holder a little bit. It should snap out of the bottom. Worst case, you can cut the plastic support piece along the back of the chip, and it will come apart much easier. Then you can read the 'stock' chip using the Burn1. Key thing though is that to reprogram a chip, you'll need to use a Flash chip like the C1, and you'll want to use a G2 adapter to make fitment easy. They are 28 pin rather than 24 pin.



    ALDU1 Frequently asked questions


    I am using ALDU1 and CABL1 and I cannot get my PC or Laptop to connect to my ecm.
    What does the switch on the ALDU1 do?
    What do I need to do to use the winALDL program with ALDU1?
    Could tell me how to connect with the APU1/ALDU1 step by step?

    I am using ALDU1 and CABL1 and I cannot get my PC or Laptop to connect to my ecm.

    When using it to connect to the 165, make sure the vertical switch (as you look at it to the right) is in the 'up' position. When working with the 730, have it in the middle position.

    - Under Windows Control Panel, make sure you have the USB/Serial device set up to COM3 or COM4.

    - Under TunerPro Tools/Preferences, make sure you have it set up as a 'Max232/etc' on the corresponding COM port.

    - Under TunerPro ALDL/Datalogging section, make sure you have the correct *.ads file selected. This will either be the 1227165_6E.ads or 1227730.ads file.


    What does the switch on the ALDU1 do?

    The switch on the back of the ALDU1 changes the resistance between pins A and B on the ALDL interface cable. The topmost position places 10k ohms between the pins. Some ECMs require this 10k resistance in order to connect to the ALDL datastream (1227165 is an example). The middle position opens the connection between A and B (infinite resistance). This is the "default" position. Most cars can be datalogged in this position. Cars that require 10k to connect can be switched to this position after connection. The bottom most position shorts the connection (0 ohms). Most GM ECMs dump trouble codes when pins A and B are shorted. This switch position makes doing so simple and convenient when a PC is not available.


    What do I need to do to use the winALDL program with ALDU1?

    • Set the baud rate to 4800 within the WinALDL program.
    • While looking at the ALDU1 box, set the vertical switch to your right, and switch it 'up' (10k mode).
    • Set the COM port selection in WinALDL to match what it set up to on the USB driver under the control panel.
    • Select the ECM type in WinALDL which matches your ECM.
    • Make sure the ALDU1 is connected to the laptop prior to starting the software.
    • Turn your key off, connect the ALDU1 to the car, and start the software.
    • Turn the car on, it should connect.

     


    Autoprom Frequently asked questions


    Does the USB AutoProm require a driver, and if so, where do I get it and how do I install it?
    Is there a users manual for the Autoprom?
    What does the vertical switch on the back of the Autoprom do?
    What does the horizontal switch on the back of the Autoprom do?
    What is the firewire connection on the rear of the AutoProm for?
    What chips can I burn and read with the AutoProm?
    Why does the USB version support writing 27SF512 chips, but the serial version does not?
    What chips can I emulate using the AutoProm?
    What are the 3 additional channels of analog to digital (A/D) conversion for and how can I make use of them?
    I've hooked up the USB AutoProm to the computer, but the software cannot find or detect it.
    Emulation does not seem to work. The SES light flickers and/or the cooling fans come on when I turn the key on.
    After uploading my bin to the AutoProm successfully, verification fails.
    I can't seem to read or write a chip. What am I doing wrong?
    I can't seem to connect to my ECM with the AutoProm.
    Could tell me how to connect with the APU1/ALDU1 step by step?
    How do I make an ALDL data recording with Tuner Pro?
    How do I emulate with the Autoprom and Tuner Pro?

    Does the USB AutoProm require a driver, and if so, where do I get it and how do I install it?

    The USB AutoProm does require a driver. You can download it form http://osc.moates.net/. Instructions on installation can also be found there. Without the driver, the AutoProm will not function.

    Note that the serial version does not require any special drivers.


    Is there a users manual for the Autoprom?

    Yes, Its on the Moates.net website here.


    What does the vertical switch on the back of the Autoprom do?

    The vertical switch on the backplane of the AutoProm changes the resistance between pins A and B on the ALDL interface cable. The topmost position places 10k ohms between the pins. Some ECMs require this 10k resistance in order to connect to the ALDL datastream (1227165 is an example). The middle position opens the connection between A and B (infinite resistance). This is the "default" position. Most cars can be datalogged in this position. Cars that require 10k to connect can be switched to this position after connection. The bottom most position shorts the connection (0 ohms). Most GM ECMs dump trouble codes when pins A and B are shorted. This switch position makes doing so simple and convenient when a PC is not available.


    What does the horizontal switch on the back of the Autoprom do?

    The horizontal switch, called the bypass switch, switches whether the PC communicates with the AutoProm CPU or directly to the ALDL interface hardware. When the switch is towards the serial or USB port, the PC communicates with the AutoProm CPU. This mode is used for changing data in the emulation buffer, for acquiring A/D data, and for ALDL datalogging in "AutoProm" mode (TunerPro only). When the switch is switched away from the serial or USB port, the AutoProm is in bypass mode. This mode allows the PC to communicate directly with the car through the ALDL cable. This allows the AutoProm to function as a simple ALDL cable. Use this mode to communicate with your OBDI vehicle using most ALDL data acquisition software such as WinALDL, CarBytes, Datamaster, etc.


    What is the firewire connection on the rear of the AutoProm for?

    The firewire connection on the backplane of newer AutoProm units is used for connecting (via a special connector available from moates.net) the 3 channel A/D module.


    What chips can I burn and read with the AutoProm?

    The Serial and USB AutoProm can read the following:

    2732A, 27C128, 27C256, 27C512, 27SF512, 29C256, 29F040, Moates F2A Ford Adapter, Moates F2E EEC reader

    The Serial AutoProm can write to the following chips:

    29C256, 29F040, 27SF512*, Moates F2A Ford Adapter

    * USB AutoProm only


    Why does the USB version support writing 27SF512 chips, but the serial version does not?

    Because of the simplicity and size of the USB connector, there is more room on the hardware layout for the electronics necessary to write to 27SF512 chips. The serial version does not have enough room for the required components.


    What chips can I emulate using the AutoProm?

    The AutoProm can emulate virtually any chip up to 64MBit in size (64KB) with 28 pins or less.


    What are the 3 additional channels of analog to digital (A/D) conversion for and how can I make use of them?

    With the AutoProm, you can monitor and datalog up to 3 channels of analog data. This can be used to monitor external temperature sensors, voltage levels, etc. To make use of the this feature, you need the appropriate interface connector available from osc.moates.net. Once connected, you can use TunerPro to monitor the data or datalog the data in the normal ALDL stream (see the TunerPro help documentation).


    I've hooked up the USB AutoProm to the computer, but the software cannot find or detect it.

    The USB AutoProm requires a driver to be installed. See the appropriate question in this FAQ for more information on finding and installing this driver.


    Emulation does not seem to work. The SES light flickers and/or the cooling fans come on when I turn the key on.

    There are a few things to try or check.

    1. Make sure you do not have a chip in the ZIF adapter. At no time other than reading or writing a PROM should you have a chip in the AutoProm ZIF.
    2. Make sure your checksum is correct or disabled if your ECM requires it. Checksums can be disabled on GM ECMs by uploading 0xAA to the Mask ID byte.
    3. Make sure the chip header is installed in your ECM correctly. Make sure pin 1 is oriented correctly and that all pins are making contact. This may require making adjustments to your ECM chip adapter.
    4. If you're using a C3 ECM (7747, etc), make sure you've soldered in your chip adapter correctly. Make sure your car runs as expected from your stock (or known-good) chip.
    5. Make sure your emulation header cable is not too long or in a place where electrical interference could be an issue.


    After uploading my bin to the AutoProm successfully, verification fails.

    There are generally two causes for this: 1) You have a chip in the AutoProm ZIF, 2) Your USB cable is bad or inadequate. Try a different brand or type of USB cable.


    I can't seem to read or write a chip. What am I doing wrong?

    Make sure the chip is properly oriented in the AutoProm ZIF. Pin 1 should be towards the back (connection) side of the AutoProm, and the chip should be all the way towards the front of the ZIF, such that any unused pins are between the chip and the ZIF handle.


    I can't seem to connect to my ECM with the AutoProm.

    If your AutoProm is in bypass mode and you're using TunerPro, make sure TunerPro is configured to use "Max232" as the adapter interface. If you're using a USB AutoProm in bypass mode with WinALDL, make sure WinALDL is configured to use 4800 baud. There are a few ECMs that cannot be connected to un non-bypass mode. Please contact Craig or Mark for more information if you continue having difficulties connecting.


    Could tell me how to connect with the APU1/ALDU1 step by step?

     

    • Turn vehicle off.
    • Close all programs including TunerPro.
    • Connect the APU1 or ALDU1 to the USB port and the vehicle ALDL.
    • If using the APU1, set the horizontal switch to the 'inside' setting for use with TunerPro. Set it to the outside for use with WinALDL or DataMaster.
    • For 8192, if using 1227165 ECM, set vertical switch to 'up' position (looking at it with the vertical switch to your right).
    • For all other 8192, set it to the 'middle' position.
    • If you want to 'flash your codes' set it to the bottom position and turn the key on.
    • For 160 baud (older TBI, etc), set it to the 'top' position.
    • Open up your Windows Control Panel, under 'System' and 'Hardware' and 'Device Manager' under 'Ports'. Find the USB Serial Port, and go to the Port Settings tab. Go to the Advanced button, and make sure the COM port setting is either COM3 or COM4. Set the latency to 1. If having connection issues, you might try a latency of 5. Once settings are applied, hit OK and close out all Control panel stuff. Keep in mind that this will be valid and 'keep' for the particular USB port you are plugged into for next time. If you plug into a different USB port you'll need to do this again for that one.
    • Open un TunerPro, and go under the Tools/Preferences section. Go to the ALDL/Emulation tab. If using APU1 with the switch to the 'inside', select 'AutoProm' for datalogging device type. If using the ALDU1 or the APU1 with the switch 'out' then select 'MAX232/etc' as device type and specify the correct COM port assignment (remember this from the Windows Control Panel exercise, probably COM3 or COM4). Once set, hit apply or OK and close that window.
    • Go to the Tools/ALDL-Datalogging/Setup section of TunerPro, and 'browse' for the correct datalogging definition file (ADS file). You may need to download it from the TunerPro website. The name of the file should tell you if it's the right one. Once selected, you're ready to go almost.
    • Close TunerPro and open it back up. That'll make sure all your options 'stick'.
    • If using APU1 with the switch 'in', you should see a message at the bottom of the TunerPro window indicating "Connected: AutoProm blahblah" whereas if you have the switch 'out' or you're using an ALDU1, you will see 'Hardware Not Connected' and that is OK.
    • Go back to the Tools/ALDL Datalogging/Setup option, and now turn your key on. Click on the 'Connect to ECM' button. It should connect. If not, then something isn't correct or something is wrong. Could be corrupt binary, bad connection, hardware problem, or something else. Some of the older 165 (pre-89) have difficulty, and you may need to upgrade to the 89 (6E) code. Some of the SyTy/late-model TBI trucks/LT1 stuff has problems because of a 'silence mode' command requirement. This is being worked, and should be fixed soon.
    • Once connected (you'll see the 'connected' indicator), you can monitor variables. Go to the Tools/ALDL/Datalogging menu, and you'll see where you can show 'Flags', 'Values', 'Dashboard', 'Traces', all sorts of user-definable stuff. To choose values for your dashboard display, you can right-click and select something you want to show from a pulldown menu.
    • Now you're up and running. Don't forget: NEVER disconnect the APU1 or ALDU1 from the PC while the software is open! No damage will occur, but the PC side will hang up and get confused. So, always connect and disconnect your hardware when there is NO software open and running (safe rule of thumb

     

    Once you do all the stuff above, next time all you should need to do is:

    • Connect USB stuff
    • Connect ALDL stuff
    • Set switches
    • Start TunerPro
    • Turn key on
    • Connect and datalog
    • When finished, turn key off and close TunerPro session
    • Disconnect ALDL
    • Disconnect USB

     


    How do I make an ALDL data recording with Tuner Pro?

    For ALDL data acquisition the AutoProm has two modes: Passthrough and AutoProm. Passthrough mode is set by placing the horizontal switch on the backplane away from the USB connetor. In this mode, TunerPro must be set to MAX232, since the AutoProm, when set to this mode, is just like any other ALDL cable. To set it to AutoProm mode, place the horizontal switch towards the USB port. In this mode, TunerPro must be set to AutoProm mode. The purpose of passthrough mode is to allow the AutoProm to be used for gathering ALDL data using applications other than TunerPro. In this mode you cannot make changes to the emulation buffer in the AutoProm mode. In AutoProm mode (again, set on the AutoProm itself and in TunerPro's settings), you can emulate and datalog at the same time.

    To record an ALDL data log, see the TunerPro help file, but here's a summary:

    • Connect the AutoProm ALDL cable to your Vehicle
    • Set the AutoProm and TunerPro to the appropriate mode (see above explanation)
    • Connect to your ECM
    • Hit F4 to open the ALDL setup window
    • Click "Select Log File for Record/Play" and browse to a file to record to (or enter the name of a new file)
    • With TunerPro actively getting data from your ECM, hit the Record button
    • When done logging, hit the stop button
    • Hit the play button to play back the log you just recorded

     


    How do I emulate with the Autoprom and Tuner Pro?

    The TunerPro help file has a step-by-step outline of how to emulate. Here's a an abridged overview:

    • Attach the AutoProm to your PC and to your Vehicle
    • Make sure the horizontal switch is towards the USB port on the AutoProm
    • Start TunerPro (note that TunerPro automatically detects the hardware)
    • Load your bin and bin definition into TunerPro
    • Upload the bin to the emulator (see the related menu or toolbar buttons)
    • Enable emulation (again, in the tools menu or on the toolbar)
    • Start your vehicle
    • Make changes to the bin
    • Hit "update" in the respective item editor after every change to update the emulator RAM with the new data.


    Note that you may need to disable the checksum in your bin. This is done by changing the mask ID byte to 0xAA. More information on that can be found in the various tuning forums, including the forum at www.thirdgen.org/techbb2 (DIY PROM forum).



    Ford tuning Frequently asked questions


    What do I need to start tuning a Ford?
    I have a 2.3 Turbo (PC1, PE, PF2, PF3, PK, PK1,etc) what do you have for me?
    How do I know what bin file I need?
    What is a J3 port?

    What do I need to start tuning a Ford?

    It really depends on what you want to do and how you want to do it. The F1 and F3 adapters are plugged into the J3 port. You cannot change anything with these while they are plugged into the J3 port, you have to unplug them and use the burn1 to write the modified bin file to the adapter. These adapters "override" the stock programming and allow you to change anything you want ,and get your "tune" exactly where you want it. To do this though you really need a way to datalog, and a Wideband O2 sensor is a great help as well.

    The F1 adapter is designed for use with most EEC-IV processors, it doesn't work with the 4 cyl turbos, and it does not come with a chip. The new F3 works with both EEC-IV and EEC-V processors up to 2003, it is switchable between 2 memory locations , giving you multi-chip capability. It also comes with chip installed and with the optional F2A adapter, can be programmed without removing chip.

    You also need some software to be able to edit your bin files, the bin file is the binary code within your PCM. Both Tuner Pro and EEC Editor support Ford stuff and work well with Moates hardware. You will need to make sure there is software support for your particular application.

    Another way to tune is with a emulator, basically with this device you can make changes while the car is running, this greatly simplifies the tuning process. Currently Moates offers the Ostrich, which will interface with EEC IV and EEC V PCMs using the FORDEMU. Also the Autoprom will work with only EEC IV PCMs using the F1.


    I have a 2.3 Turbo (PC1, PE, PF2, PF3, PK, PK1,etc) what do you have for me?

    Typically folks have used the F2 adapter to override their stock EEC program via the J3 port. However, the F2 adapter is no longer available. The F1 adapter does something similar, but it doesn't work with turbo type applications, only N/A EEC-IV (pre-96) stuff. So, I have the F3 and F4 adapters (single program and switchable). They will be made available soon. They will work with EEC-IV and EEC-V as well as the Turbo EEC-IV.

    The Burn1 is a chip programmer, and is used to program the J-3 adapters via the F2A. The F2A is merely an adapter to go from the BURN1 to a chip adapter such as the old F2 or F3/F4. The BURN1 can also be used in conjunction with the F2A adapter. This is being redesigned so that it can be used with the APU1, and will be renamed probably to just the FA. It is used for a couple of different purposes. First, it can be used in conjunction with the F2E to read the 'stock' content from the EEC-IV and EEC-V computers. Second, it can be used to read chip modules such as the F1, F2, F3, F4, and others such as the TwEECer. The binary from these exercises can be saved and edited offline. The BURN1/FA combo can also be used (as well as the APU1/FA combo) to program chip modules such as the F2, F3 and F4. This way, you go directly through the BURN1/APU1 interface via the accompanying software and USB interface. No need to remove the chip from the module.

    In all these cases, there is no desoldering involved. Just clean the contacts on the J3 port and stick the programmed adapter module (F3 or F4 in your case) in there.


    How do I know what bin file I need?

    You start by getting the catch code off of the processor (see image), this will be the .bin file name. This one would be a Z2D1.bin



    What is a J3 port?

    It's the port on the back of your processor that the adapter plugs into (see pic).



    F1 J3 adapter Frequently asked questions


    Which way does the chip go into the socket on the adapter?

    The top of the socket on the F1 adapter has a notch in it, line it up with the notch on the chip facing the same way, the chip installed all the way at the bottom of the socket(see picture).



    F2/F3 J3 adapter Frequently asked questions


    What chip addressing do I use when programming a F2 or F3 for EEC-IV ?
    What chip addressing do I use when programming a F2 or F3 for EEC-V ?

    What chip addressing do I use when programming a F2 or F3 for EEC-IV ?

    When programming for EEC-IV, you want to put a 56k binary from 032000-03FFFF.


    What chip addressing do I use when programming a F2 or F3 for EEC-V ?

    When programming for EEC-V, use the following addressing:

    BANK0: 002000-00FFFF
    BANK1: 012000-01FFFF
    BANK8: 022000-02FFFF
    BANK9: 032000-03FFFF



    F2E Frequently asked questions


    Does the F2E (EEC computer reading interface) use an external power supply ?
    Do I have to remove the PCM from the car to use the F2E ?
    Is the F2E a stand-alone unit, will I need anything else to read the chip ?
    How do I use the F2E ?
    What addressing do I use to pull out a bin from my EEC V ?

    Does the F2E (EEC computer reading interface) use an external power supply ?

    No, its uses the USB port to power the PCM.


    Do I have to remove the PCM from the car to use the F2E ?

    No, it works either way, either on the bench or in the car.


    Is the F2E a stand-alone unit, will I need anything else to read the chip ?

    No, it is not a stand-alone unit, it is designed to work with the burn1 and F2A Ford programming adapter.


    How do I use the F2E ?

    Attach the F2A to the Burn1, then plug the cable that came with the F2E into the F2A, then the F2E to the cable, then plug it into a CLEAN J3 port (see pics below).




    What addressing do I use to pull out a bin from my EEC-V ?

    When pulling a bin from a EEC-V, use the following addressing:

    000000-03FFFF will pull out an entire 256k file with the banks at the following addressing:
    BANK0: 002000-00FFFF
    BANK1: 012000-01FFFF
    BANK8: 022000-02FFFF
    BANK9: 032000-03FFFF



    burn1 Frequently asked questions


    Which way does the chip go in to the socket?
    My software doesn't see the burn1

    Which way does the chip go in to the socket?

    The top of the socket on the burn1 is the handle, line it up with the notch on the chip facing the same way, the chip installed all the way at the bottom of the socket(see picture).


    My software doesn't see the burn1

    Follow the documentation on setting up a com port and installing the USB drivers in the documentation section on the Moates.net web site here.



    Wideband F.A.Q


    Can I use a Wideband O2 sensor in my factory harness?

    The wideband O2 sensor itself looks much like a standard O2 sensor. It does in fact install similarly, with the same threads. However, it requires a separate control box. It is a heated sensor which requires special heating rates and such, and can't be controlled straight off of a factory harness. Instead, what you do is 'add' it to your exhaust, keeping the stock O2 sensor in place and adding the wideband sensor at another point in the exhaust system by cutting a hole and welding in a bung. Then for the control box, you use either the LC1 or the LM1. For the LC1, you can monitor it via the laptop and what-not, and for the LM1, it has a local readout which you can view. Both the LM1 and LC1 have a 'serial' output which can be used to either hook up to a PC for logging or to a gauge like the XD1.

    As a more advanced topic, if you'd like to 'replace' your factory O2 sensor with a wideband unit, you can use what is called the 'simulated narrowband output' of a unit like the LC1. To do this, you need to splice into your existing harness slightly and program the LC1 to match. The LC1 has two programmable analog outputs, one of which can be used to 'feed' the factory ECU.

    In any case, the wideband controller (LM1 or LC1) is a critical part which is needed.



    Tunerpro F.A.Q

    How do I make an ALDL data recording with Tuner Pro?
    How do I emulate with the Autoprom and Tuner Pro?

    Where do I find support for TunerPro software?

    At the TunerPro website http://tunerpro.markmansur.com/, Mark has a nice F.A.Q posted there.



    EEC Editor F.A.Q


    Where do I find support for EEC Editor software?

    On the EEC editor mailing list http://groups.yahoo.com/group/eeceditor/.
    Or check this web page to D/L the software and def files: EEC Editor


    Moates.net Software F.A.Q


    Where can I find information on using the Flash & Burn Software for the Burn1?
    Where can I find information on Chip addressing?
    What chip addressing do I use when using the F2 in a EEC-IV ?
    Can the firmware of my Moates.net device be updated?

    Where can I find information on using the Flash & Burn Software for the Burn1?

    This information can be found in the Burn1 Use document in the Documentation section of the Moates.net web site.


    Where can I find information on Chip addressing?

    This information can be found in the Using offsets when programming chips document in the Documentation section of the Moates.net web site.


    What chip addressing do I use when using the F2 in a EEC-IV ?

    When programming for EEC-IV, you want to put a 56k binary from 032000-03FFFF.


    Can the firmware of my Moates.net device be updated?

    There are 3 devices which can be reflashed in terms of firmware: APU1, BURN1, and Ostrich.

    Whatever you do, do NOT reflash your unit with an update that is designed for another! For instance, don't reflash your AutoProm with a Flash&Burn firmware. Otherwise, you'll be sending it back to me. I don't know how to state this more explicitly. Be careful and deliberate, and DON'T reflash with the wrong firmware! Step by step instructions are below:

    1. Download the Firmware updater program and the correct firmware for your application from Moates.net, i.e AP_2_8_A.zip is for the autoprom, notice the "AP" at the beginning of the file.

    2. Open up the Firmware updater program, you should see a window like below:



    3. Click on the open file button, browse to the directory you downloaded the firmware and select it.



    4. Make sure you have the correct firmware loaded before this step! Now click update, you should see this screen when update is done:


  • File Uploads and Downloads Support
  • Our file manager is no longer available for access due to a website crash.  Almost all of the content is available at the excellent forums http://www.gearhead-efi.com

    You can also click this for a direct link to the files section: link

  • File Uploads & Downloads
  • Files Available for upload or download including stock binaries, custom bins, datastream definitions, source code, etc.

    The new location for file uploads and downloads is over here:
    Gearhead EFI File Collection

  • Firmware Updates Support
  • About Firmware Updates and a Warning

    Periodically we release new firmware for our products. We generally recommend AGAINST updating firmware unless you have a very specific reason for doing so, as there is always the chance something will go wrong during an update leaving the device bricked in a state where it has to be sent in for repair.

    If you are attempting to update your firmware because you think your current firmware is corrupt, be advised that you will not be able to update your firmware unless the old firmware actually works (a little) and is able to accept new firmware. You will have to return your device to us in these cases.  Some newer r

    Again, most of the time problems can be resolved without a firmware upgrade. Consult this site and/or contact us at support@moates.net if you think you need a firmware update.

    Firmware Update Procedure

    The information on this page pertains to the following devices:

    • APU1 AutoProm
    • Ostrich 1.0
    • Ostrich 2.0
    • Flash & Burn (BURN1 / BURN2 / Jaybird)
    • Roadrunner LS1 16-Bit Emulator
    • QuarterHorse J3 Ford Emulator
    • Demon integrated tuning device
    • NEMU integrated tuning device

    Directions for updating firmware:

    1. Download the following utility (new version as of 2017):
      Firmware Update Utility
      and unzip it to the location of your choice.
    2. Download the appropriate firmware package for your hardware from the table below and unzip it to the location of your choice (preferably to the same location as the update utility).
    3. Connect your hardware to your PC and close all software applications.
    4. Start the firmware update utility. Your hardware should be automatically detected. If it isn’t, click the “Detect” button
    5. Click the “Browse” button in the update utility and browse to the firmware package you downloaded and unzipped in step 2 above.
    6. If the package and hardware match, the “Update” button should be available. Press it now.
    7. Once complete, the updater should notify you of success and display the new version information.

    Firmware downloads for individual units:

    Hardware Current Version Notes
    AutoProm 2.17 No updates available.
    Ostrich 1.0 N/A No updates available.
    Ostrich 2.0 20.9.O Provides newest ‘trace’ implementation and vendor-specific security. Well tested.
    BURN1 / BURN2 / Jaybird 5.14.F Legacy firmware shipped in all units up to 2016. Does NOT support F3v2 chips currently shipping in 2017. Recommended for all BURN2 units which will be programming 28/32pin EPROMs and older F3 chips.
    BURN1 / BURN2 / Jaybird 5.16.F

    Supports Ford F3v2 chips (released October 2016). Some users have reported bugs with programming 28/32pin EPROMs and some older F3 chips. Recommended for F3v2 Ford chips only at this time. Fix in the works.

    BURN1 / BURN2 / Jaybird 5.18.F

    Supports newer F3v3 chips (2023+_. You'll want to select 'F5' as chip type and use random access addressing for various  switch locations.

    Roadrunner 12.14.R Update for smoother RTACS work in EFI Live vs v12.13.R
    QuarterHorse 1.6 Not user-upgradable. Must return to Moates.net for upgrade.
    Demon 1 1.9.D EMAIL US IF NEEDED! Bug fix. Recommended for all Demon1 units.
    Demon 2 2.9.D Initial release version. Installed on all units at factory.
    NEMU N/A No updates available.

  • Flash N Burn
  • Flash & Burn Screen Shot

    Flash & Burn Screen Shot

    Download Flash & Burn here.

    Flash & Burn is a software package used with the Burn1 and Burn2 EEPROM burners, as well as the Autoprom (APU1).

    Note, many tuning software packages (like CROME and Hondata) can interface with these burners directly making this software not necessary.

  • Ford: Box code – strategy – vehicle cross reference
  • This page is intended to help people who have looked here to figure out if there is support for their vehicle.

    Each ECM has a 3 or 4 digit processor code that uniquely identifies it.  You can tell what strategy a ECM uses from its box code or from looking at a dump of a stock program from that ECM.  “Strategy” is Ford’s lingo for a program to run a vehicle. (or operating system)  Each strategy can have multiple calibrations for different engines.  Sometimes even V6 and V8 engines will use the same strategy!

    If you are wondering if your strategy is supported, take a look at the Supported Strategies guide.

    This list will grow over time.  If you don’t see your vehicle listed here, email support@moates.net

    A9L = GUFB (88-93 “Fox body” V8 mustang 5-speed)

    A9P = GUF1 (88-93 “Fox body” V8 mustang auto)

    T4M0 = CBAZA (94-95 SN95mustang  5.0 V8)

    LLX4 = CDAN4 (96-97 Cobra 4.6L 32v)

    PTP2 = FBFG2 (04 Mustang GT)

    RCX5 = CDAN4 (97 Tbird 3.8L v6)

    SLL4 = CTBAE (96 5.0 explorer ??? )

    LKT3 = ODAJ0 (02 F150 4×4 auto)

    SCI1 = ODAG0 (02 F150 4×4 manual)

    NMI1= ODAG0 (02 F150 4×4 manual)

    MIJ1 = ODAG0 (02 F150 4×4 manual)

    KVF1 = ODAL1 (02 F150 4×4 manual)

    CXN1 = MNAE1 (01 Lightning)

    CUX1 = MRAD2 (01/02 Lightning)

    CUX2 = MRAD3 (01/02 Lightning)

    URB1 = TAUF0 (02/03 Lightning)

    There is a handy Excel spreadsheet you may want to look at ( link ) that has a decent cross-reference.

    External Resources

    Core Tuning have an excellent list of strategies they support which can be used to cross reference ECMs and strategies.

    OBDTester.com has a nice list of Ford ECM info organized by hardware ID and updates for Ford ECMs.

     

  • Ford: “Calibrated” MAFs
  • Calibrated MAFs are something you are almost guaranteed to run into sooner or later tuning EECIV Fords.  Although largely an artifact of yesteryear when tuning tools were not available, “calibrated” MAFs will work just as well as any other if you understand them.  Few of the websites out there will really give you the information you need to use them effectively in current golden age of EECIV tuning.

    How They Work

    The factory ECM has a table that tells the computer that it has a certain amount of air when there is a particular MAF voltage.  (i.e. “MAF Transfer Function”)  The computer also has a configuration for a set of injectors. (i.e. “high slope / low slope / breakpoint / offset”)  The factory ECM is going to deliver a certain amount of fuel based on the size of the injectors, MAF transfer and amount of air / voltage coming from the MAF.

    So pretend for a moment that the ECM is off limits.  You can’t do anything with the MAF transfer function or any of the internal configuration.  But you need to be able to support a larger engine that makes more power than factory 19# injectors can support.  So you install 24# injectors that flow more fuel.  Paired with a stock MAF, 24# injectors are going to make the car run really rich!  Mass air flow (output from MAF transfer) x injector slopes get’s you pulsewidth, pulsewidth determines fuel flow.  You can’t change anything on the computer in this game, so what do you do to fix fueling?

    Enter the calibrated MAF.

    Say you start with a system that uses 19# injectors and you have installed 24# injectors.  Your injectors flow roughly (24# / 19#) or 1.26 times too much fuel.  What’s the other side of the fueling equation?  Airflow.  If you can make the MAF output 1.26 times LESS air, the net amount of fuel will be about the same as when you have a factory MAF and factory injectors.  “Calibrated MAFs” diddle with the voltage->airflow output of the MAF in order to try and make a factory ECM provide the correct amount of fueling without needing any of its program being altered.  Essentially, hardware modifications to the sampling tube and electrical tweaks are used to produce a specifically reshaped output to fool the ECM into somewhat behaving.

    So What Does This Mean?

    There is an unintended consequence to using a “Calibrated MAF” setup.  In addition to being used for fueling, the MAF is also used to calculate timing at part throttle.  Less air means less Load.  Less Load generally means more timing at part throttle.  Fortunately, the WOT timing model of factory fox body cars removes most of the danger inherent with changing Load values without changing the rest of the tune.   It’s an imperfect system, at best.  There are generally errors here and there in the airflow curve.  Hopefully, they’re small enough to be corrected by O2 sensors.  Remember, this whole matching calibrated MAF thing dates to when there weren’t tuning options commonly available.

    In the golden age of EECIV tuning ushered in by the QuarterHorse, you can make effective changes to the calibration on the ECM, removing the need for MAFs to be “Calibrated” in hardware.  Instead, the quality of MAF calibration will depend on how closely the values you have programmed in the MAF transfer function match the actual airflow values required to produce given voltages.  Being able to independently change the MAF transfer function and injector configuration using our tools removes the need for the “calibration” to be done in hardware and instead lets you do it in software by tuning the vehicle and modifying its calibration.

    Bottom line: when tuning with a QuarterHorse, the flow test or flow sheet from the MAF is 100x more important than the MAF being “calibrated” for whatever injectors are being used.  The MAF and injectors can be independently calibrated in tuning software.

    References

    C+L on Calibrated MAFs

    Need more refs…

     

  • Ford: Diesel Programming
  • Good news: Our hardware (Quarterhorse, F3, F8, F2A+F2E) works great on diesel trucks

    Old Bad news: As of this time (2-25-10) there are NO PUBLIC DEFINITION FILES for software that supports our hardware. (TunerPro RT, EEC Editor, Binary Editor)

    New Better news: (2-13-13)  The Minotaur software available from Power Hungry Performance will spit out bin files you can program to our chips.  Supposedly, there will be QuarterHorse support soon.  Note: we are not affiliated with PHP in any way and you will have to contact them for any and all specific information regarding their products.

  • Ford EFI Tuning Class – Fall 2014 Baton Rouge, LA (finished)
  • Another Fall Class!

    We are going to be offering a three-day class on tuning Fords with QuarterHorse in Fall 2014 – weekend of october 11th.  This is the same format class previously offered.  Classroom instruction will take place at the  Classroom instruction will take place in the Moates Event Center around the corner from Moates HQ.  Street tuning and dyno instruction will take place on a dyno in the area.

    Cost

    Registration for the class will be $350.   You can pay with any of the methods that we accept on the website (Paypal, Credit Card) in advance or pay cash/money order at the door.  If you’re going to pay at the door, we ask that you purchase the class item from our website and select “Check or Money order” at checkout so we can keep an accurate headcount and reserve your spot.  All of the products that are used for the class will be available for purchase at/after the event at a discount for attendees. You can register for the event here.

    Class Overview

    Dave Blundell, Moates tech support and former tuner at Modular Depot will be the instructor.   Craig Moates, founder and engineer of Moates products will give an in depth overview of hardware.

    Registration will be limited to 12 people in order to keep the class manageable and give everyone a chance to get involved and ask questions.  There will be a mixture of classroom instruction, live in-car demonstration of logging techniques with street driving and dyno tuning and techniques.  Forced induction and naturally aspirated modifications and tuning will be covered.  We expect lots of discussion and have built time for this into the class schedule.

    Primary focus will be on 89-95 (i.e. Fox-body Mustang, 94-95 Mustang) EEC-IV MAF Fords but much of the material will carry to later models also supported by the same hardware and software. This class is aimed at beginner-intermediate users, but those with literally no experience at all may want to look at some of the material in advance in order to be better prepared.  Likewise, if you have years of experience with Ford EFI tuning and you’re simply looking to get familiar with using our products for the EEC-IV platform, you should already be familiar with some of the material presented.  We cover everything from physical engine operation to air metering methods to Ford implementations with a goal of helping you make targeted tuning changes and not just “button mashing.”

    Schedule of Events

    Day 1 (TBA) will focus on general theory of how engines work, how electronic engine management works and general approaches to calibration of engine management systems.  Chances are, if you’ve been tuning cars for five years you probably already know a lot of this stuff but it probably wouldn’t hurt you to sit through it again.  If you’re new to engine management, expect your brain to hurt.  The goal of day one is to help you understand how the many pieces of engines, electronics and sensors that you will be dealing with fit together – the big picture.  Most of this day will NOT deal with Ford specific terms and methods.  At the end of the day, you should have a strong understanding of spark ignition internal combustion engines, how and why engines make power, be able to name and explain the function of sensors likely to be found on a fuel injected engine and understand the conditions needed for achieving specific goals such as fuel economy, power or keeping and engine in one piece.  If you’ve previously worked with other systems of engine management, you might look at what you already know in a new light.

    Day 2 (TBA) will focus on early Ford engine management.  If you need to get any software set up and configured, we’ll take care of it on this day.  The morning session will focus on Ford specific terms and procedures for running an engine.  The emphasis will be on the most common and important parameters necessary for adjustment.   Fuel, spark, idle and limits will be covered as well as some of the limitations and pitfalls of using factory computers.  Both forced induction and naturally aspirated setups will be discussed.  After lunch, we will demonstrate setting up Moates hardware and how TunerPro RT and Binary Editor 2012 software can be used to make adjustments necessary for tuning Ford vehicles.   At the end of day two, you will have an understanding of the terms used in Ford EFI, be able to pick out the most important items that you need to change in a calibration when tuning and see how software can be used with Moates tools to tune vehicles.  GUFB (aka 89-93 MAF Fox Body Mustangs) and CBAZA (aka 94-95 Mustangs) will be the focus of this day.

    Day 3 (TBA) will focus on hands-on usage of TPRT and BE, acquiring data from street and dyno use, analyzing it, diagnosing issues and making changes to tune your vehicle.  We will be acquiring data on the street and on the dyno and using it to make targeted changes.   This will be putting the theory from previous days together with real vehicles and seeing how to apply our understanding of Ford MAF systems to achieve results.  At the end of day three, you will be able to understand enough of Ford EFI systems and the software available to work with Moates tools to be able to acquire data and make precise changes based on measurements rather than simply “mashing buttons” to get results.

    Plan on 8-10 hours of being focused per day.  We’ll typically run on a 9ish-6ish kind of day depending on how things go.  (Local time is Central Standard Time – CST)

    There will be lunch, snacks and drinks provided.  At previous classes, we had an optional group dinner afterwards that worked out well.  Some of the best discussion ended up coming up over dinner, so we’ll probably try to do that again.

    We’ll try to have a good chunk of the curriculum up here on the support site prior to the class for you to review and prepare.

    Travel Information

    There will be a limited number of spots available at the Moates event center where we are having the class.  Information on regional hotels is available on request.

    Other Class Opportunities

    Check out the support site for other opportunities to take a class on using Moates products.

  • Ford EFI Tuning Class – Fall 2014 Cincinnati, OH (finished)
  • Another Fall Class!

    We are going to be offering a three-day class on tuning Fords with QuarterHorse in Fall 2014 – Friday September 26 to Sunday September 28th.  This is the same format class previously offered.  Street tuning and dyno instruction will take place on a dyno in the Fairfield, OH (northwest suburb of Cincinnati).

    Cost

    Registration for the class will be $350.   You can pay with any of the methods that we accept on the website (Paypal, Credit Card) in advance or pay cash/money order at the door.  If you’re going to pay at the door, we ask that you purchase the class item from our website and select “Check or Money order” at checkout so we can keep an accurate headcount and reserve your spot.  All of the products that are used for the class will be available for purchase at/after the event at a discount for attendees. You can register for the event here.

    Class Overview

    Dave Blundell, Moates tech support and former tuner at Modular Depot will be the instructor.

    Registration will be limited to 15 people in order to keep the class manageable and give everyone a chance to get involved and ask questions.  There will be a mixture of classroom instruction, live in-car demonstration of logging techniques with street driving and dyno tuning and techniques.  Forced induction and naturally aspirated modifications and tuning will be covered.  We expect lots of discussion and have built time for this into the class schedule.

    Primary focus will be on 89-95 (i.e. Fox-body Mustang, 94-95 Mustang) EEC-IV MAF Fords but much of the material will carry to later models also supported by the same hardware and software. This class is aimed at beginner-intermediate users, but those with literally no experience at all may want to look at some of the material in advance in order to be better prepared.  Likewise, if you have years of experience with Ford EFI tuning and you’re simply looking to get familiar with using our products for the EEC-IV platform, you should already be familiar with some of the material presented.  We cover everything from physical engine operation to air metering methods to Ford implementations with a goal of helping you make targeted tuning changes and not just “button mashing.”

    Schedule of Events

    Day 1 (9/26) will focus on general theory of how engines work, how electronic engine management works and general approaches to calibration of engine management systems.  Chances are, if you’ve been tuning cars for five years you probably already know a lot of this stuff but it probably wouldn’t hurt you to sit through it again.  If you’re new to engine management, expect your brain to hurt.  The goal of day one is to help you understand how the many pieces of engines, electronics and sensors that you will be dealing with fit together – the big picture.  Most of this day will NOT deal with Ford specific terms and methods.  At the end of the day, you should have a strong understanding of spark ignition internal combustion engines, how and why engines make power, be able to name and explain the function of sensors likely to be found on a fuel injected engine and understand the conditions needed for achieving specific goals such as fuel economy, power or keeping and engine in one piece.  If you’ve previously worked with other systems of engine management, you might look at what you already know in a new light.

    Day 2 (9/27) will focus on early Ford engine management.  If you need to get any software set up and configured, we’ll take care of it on this day.  The morning session will focus on Ford specific terms and procedures for running an engine.  The emphasis will be on the most common and important parameters necessary for adjustment.   Fuel, spark, idle and limits will be covered as well as some of the limitations and pitfalls of using factory computers.  Both forced induction and naturally aspirated setups will be discussed.  After lunch, we will demonstrate setting up Moates hardware and how TunerPro RT and Binary Editor 2012 software can be used to make adjustments necessary for tuning Ford vehicles.   At the end of day two, you will have an understanding of the terms used in Ford EFI, be able to pick out the most important items that you need to change in a calibration when tuning and see how software can be used with Moates tools to tune vehicles.  GUFB (aka 89-93 MAF Fox Body Mustangs) and CBAZA (aka 94-95 Mustangs) will be the focus of this day.

    Day 3 (9/28) will focus on hands-on usage of TPRT and BE, acquiring data from street and dyno use, analyzing it, diagnosing issues and making changes to tune your vehicle.  We will be acquiring data on the street and on the dyno and using it to make targeted changes.   This will be putting the theory from previous days together with real vehicles and seeing how to apply our understanding of Ford MAF systems to achieve results.  At the end of day three, you will be able to understand enough of Ford EFI systems and the software available to work with Moates tools to be able to acquire data and make precise changes based on measurements rather than simply “mashing buttons” to get results.

    Plan on 8-10 hours of being focused per day.  We’ll typically run on a 9ish-6ish kind of day depending on how things go.  (Local time is Eastern Standard Time – EST)

    There will be lunch, snacks and drinks provided.  At previous classes, we had an optional group dinner afterwards that worked out well.  Some of the best discussion ended up coming up over dinner, so we’ll probably try to do that again.

    We’ll try to have a good chunk of the curriculum up here on the support site prior to the class for you to review and prepare.

    Travel Information

    The dyno portion of the class will be held at Zerolift Autolab, 100 Security Dr, Fairfield, OH 45014

    The classroom portion will be held at Zerolift.

    There are many hotels in the area.  The cluster around I275 and S. Gilmore Rd. will probably be best.  See this link for guidance.

    The location is approximately 45 minutes drive from Cincinnati/NKY airport (CVG) and approximately an hour from Dayton International Airport.

    Other Class Opportunities

    Check out the support site for other opportunities to take a class on using Moates products.


  • Ford EFI Tuning Class – March 2015 Baton Rouge, LA
  • Learn to Tune Fords in Comfort!

    We are going to be offering a three-day class on tuning Fords with QuarterHorse in March 2015 – weekend of 3/28/15.  Come enjoy Baton Rouge before it gets too hot to be fun!  Classroom instruction will take place in the Moates Event Center around the corner from Moates HQ.  Street tuning and dyno instruction will take place on a Mustang dyno in the area.  The exact format of this class will be determined by the abilities and interests of the attendees.  Previously, we have spent a lot of time on general tuning theory, Ford EECIV operation and then hands on work.  This time, all bets are off.  EECV, automatic transmissions and transmission tuning, hands-on forced induction vehicle tuning are all options that will be determined by surveying attendees prior to class.

    Cost

    Registration for the class will be $350.   You can pay with any of the methods that we accept on the website (Paypal, Credit Card) in advance or pay cash/money order at the door.  If you’re going to pay at the door, we ask that you purchase the class item from our website and select “Check or Money order” at checkout so we can keep an accurate headcount and reserve your spot.  All of the products that are used for the class will be available for purchase at/after the event at a discount for attendees. You can register for the event here.

    Class Overview

    Dave Blundell, Moates tech support and former tuner at Modular Depot will be the instructor.   Craig Moates, founder and engineer of Moates products will give an in depth overview of hardware.

    Registration will be limited to 12 people in order to keep the class manageable and give everyone a chance to get involved and ask questions.  There will be a mixture of classroom instruction, live in-car demonstration of logging techniques with street driving and dyno tuning and techniques.  Forced induction and naturally aspirated modifications and tuning will be covered.  We expect lots of discussion and have built time for this into the class schedule.

    Traditonally, primary focus will be on 89-95 (i.e. Fox-body Mustang, 94-95 Mustang) EEC-IV MAF Fords but much of the material will carry to later models also supported by the same hardware and software.  This class is aimed at beginner-intermediate users, but those with literally no experience at all may want to look at some of the material in advance in order to be better prepared.  Likewise, if you have years of experience with Ford EFI tuning and you’re simply looking to get familiar with using our products for the EEC-IV platform, you should already be familiar with some of the material presented.  We cover everything from physical engine operation to air metering methods to Ford implementations with a goal of helping you make targeted tuning changes and not just “button mashing.”  As previously stated – we’re going to let student interest dictate the exact path class takes.

    Schedule of Events

    Assuming we run this class like previous classes, the following schedule will apply.  If students elect to focus on more advanced topics, we will adjust the schedule accordingly. (And there may be homework prior to class!)  One thing is for certain – we only have three days.

    Day 1 (3/27) will focus on general theory of how engines work, how electronic engine management works and general approaches to calibration of engine management systems.  Chances are, if you’ve been tuning cars for five years you probably already know a lot of this stuff but it probably wouldn’t hurt you to sit through it again.  If you’re new to engine management, expect your brain to hurt.  The goal of day one is to help you understand how the many pieces of engines, electronics and sensors that you will be dealing with fit together – the big picture.  Most of this day will NOT deal with Ford specific terms and methods.  At the end of the day, you should have a strong understanding of spark ignition internal combustion engines, how and why engines make power, be able to name and explain the function of sensors likely to be found on a fuel injected engine and understand the conditions needed for achieving specific goals such as fuel economy, power or keeping and engine in one piece.  If you’ve previously worked with other systems of engine management, you might look at what you already know in a new light.

    Day 2 (3/28) will focus on early Ford engine management.  If you need to get any software set up and configured, we’ll take care of it on this day.  The morning session will focus on Ford specific terms and procedures for running an engine.  The emphasis will be on the most common and important parameters necessary for adjustment.   Fuel, spark, idle and limits will be covered as well as some of the limitations and pitfalls of using factory computers.  Both forced induction and naturally aspirated setups will be discussed.  After lunch, we will demonstrate setting up Moates hardware and how TunerPro RT and Binary Editor 2012 software can be used to make adjustments necessary for tuning Ford vehicles.   At the end of day two, you will have an understanding of the terms used in Ford EFI, be able to pick out the most important items that you need to change in a calibration when tuning and see how software can be used with Moates tools to tune vehicles.  GUFB (aka 89-93 MAF Fox Body Mustangs) and CBAZA (aka 94-95 Mustangs) will be the focus of this day.

    Day 3 (3/29) will focus on hands-on usage of TPRT and BE, acquiring data from street and dyno use, analyzing it, diagnosing issues and making changes to tune your vehicle.  We will be acquiring data on the street and on the dyno and using it to make targeted changes.   This will be putting the theory from previous days together with real vehicles and seeing how to apply our understanding of Ford MAF systems to achieve results.  At the end of day three, you will be able to understand enough of Ford EFI systems and the software available to work with Moates tools to be able to acquire data and make precise changes based on measurements rather than simply “mashing buttons” to get results.

    Plan on 8-10 hours of being focused per day.  We’ll typically run on a 9ish-6ish kind of day depending on how things go.  (Local time is Central Standard Time – CST)

    There will be lunch, snacks and drinks provided.  At previous classes, we had an optional group dinner afterwards that worked out well.  Some of the best discussion ended up coming up over dinner, so we’ll do that again.

    We’ll try to have a good chunk of the curriculum up here on the support site prior to the class for you to review and prepare.  You can also expect emails from us regarding the class and materials, so please make sure we have the correct contact information for you when you register.

    Travel Information

    There will be a limited number of spots available at the Moates event center where we are having the class.  There is no charge to stay at the event center but space is strictly first-come-first-serve.  Contact us via phone or email to reserve your spot.

    Information on regional hotels is available on request.

    Other Class Opportunities

    Check out the support site for other opportunities to take a class on using Moates products.

  • Ford: Information we need (READ ME)
  • We probably get 10 emails a week of the form:

    “Dear Moates,

    My name is ________ and I have a _________ Ford.  Can I use your products to tune my car/truck/van/etc. ?”

    Identifying J3 Port ECMs

    Our Ford products (F3 chip module, Quarterhorse) will work on pretty much any ECM that has a J3 port.  This is 95% of 87-2004 vehicles.  Most ECMs have a black plastic protective cover over the J3 port.  The picture below shows what a J3 port looks like with the protective cover removed:

    Ford J3 Port, protective cover removed.

    Again, our hardware products will work on any 1, 2, or 4 bank EECIV or EECV ECM that has a J3 port.

    Software Support

    I bet you thought that was too easy!  It is…

    Our HARDWARE works on just about everything Ford ever made with a J3 port,

    ***BUT software support for Fords is not as guaranteed***

    There are three applications that are known to work well with our hardware – TunerPro, EEC Editor and Binary Editor.  Each application supports different vehicles.  Some vehicles are supported by all three, some vehicles are supported by only one, some vehicles are supported by NONE.

    We need to know some information about your ECM in order to be able to tell whether there is support for your vehicle.  This information is the “Strategy” (or “operating system”) that your ECM uses, which can usually be determined from the “Box code.”  Your “box code” can normally be found in the center of the label with the barcode where the wire harness connects to the ECM.  See picture below.

    Z2D1 box code on label of ECM

    Once you have found your box code, you can take a look at the box code-strategy cross reference to determine which strategy your ECM uses.  The list of supported strategies will then tell you which (if any) software supports your ECM.  If you can’t find your ECM, please email support@moates.net and remember when you contact us inquiring about vehicle support, please include the “box code” pictured above!  Without this information, we cannot provide you with accurate information about software support.

  • Ford Overview (READ ME)
  • “I have a Ford.  What do I need to tune my car?” is an email we frequently receive.  Hopefully this page will provide some answers.

    We also often get asked, “Can I use your product to let me put _______ on my engine?” The answer to this is very simple: our products let you tune factory Ford computers.  If the factory Ford computer can do it, our products can help you tune it.  If there is another factory Ford computer that you can swap to run your engine that does what you want, great.  Some examples of what I’m talking about here include putting a MAF sensor on a car, running a car without a MAF speed-density, switching to coilpacks, etc.  If you can’t do it with a factory Ford ECM, our products aren’t going to help you achieve your goals.

    We offer products that work with almost all ~1986-2004 Ford ECUs that have a J3 port (i.e. EECIV and EECV).  International users report success using our products with non-US computers that have a J3 port.  A J3 port looks like an edge of a circuit board that kind of sticks out.  J3 ports must be cleaned with a wire brush and solvents in order to remove the protective coating on the circuit board before they can be used.  They are almost always behind a rubber protective panel.  We do not offer any products for Ford computers that lack a J3 port, such as pre-1986 and 2005+ computers.  Also, cars branded by Ford but manufactured by others (i.e. Ford Probe, made by Mazda) often use computers that lack J3 ports.

    It is critical that the vehicle is fully off before installing or removing anything on the J3 port.  Failure to power-off the ECM correctly can result in frying our hardware, your ECM or both!!!  If you have any doubts at all, remove the keys from the ignition 100% or disconnect the battery.  WARNING WARNING WARNING!

    On this page “application” simply means the car/ECU/engine you are working with.

    “ECU” means ECM, PCM – the computer running your car’s engine.

    “Strategy” is Ford lingo for a set of procedures (i.e. code) that an ECU runs.  (Closest GM term: Operating system)  Most of the time, a strategy is particular to an ECU, i.e. the GUFB strategy runs onA9L ECUs.  Sometimes more than one strategy can run on the same ECU (i.e. GUFB/A9L + GUFC/A9P) .  Most of the time the “tuner” cars (i.e. Roush, Saleen) use unusual strategies that are often simply renamed factory strategies.

    “Definition” means a file that describes the location of parameters that can be changed in a strategy.  All of the Ford tuning software uses definition files to process raw files.

    “Patch code” refers to special routines that change the way a strategy operates in order to allow Quarterhorse to log all vehicle parameters.

    Hardware used with Ford:

    F3 Chip adapter – This stores a new program for a Ford ECU and clips on the J3 port.  This is a simple Ford “chip” that can optionally store two programs.  It works with both EECIV and EECV.

    Jaybird – This is a Ford-specific device that writes F3 chip adapters ONLY.  It uses the same Flash n Burn software as a BURN1/BURN2

    F2A – The F2A is a Ford interface for the BURN1/BURN2 programmers.  It lets you write a F3 chip adapter using a BURN1/2 programmer and the Flash n Burn software.

    F2E – the F2E is used with a F2A and a BURN1/2 to read the stock program from a ECU.

    BURN1/BURN2 – These general purpose ROM burners can be used with a F2A to program F3 chips

    FORDEMU – This adapter allows the use of a Ostrich emulator to make real-time changes with a Ford ECU.  This product has been replaced with the Quarterhorse.  It does not work very well with EECV ECUs.

    Quarterhorse – The Quarterhorse (or “QH” for short) is our flagship Ford tuning product.  It allows changes to be made while the vehicle is running.  It also allows datalogging by spying directly on RAM locations.  In order to log all vehicle parameters, patch code that is specific to each strategy is required.  Many of the features of QH require special definition files and/or software support that may not be available for all applications.

    Software for Tuning Fords:

    You can read the binary from any J3 Ford computer with our gear (BURN2+F2A+F2E), but that does NOT mean that any J3 ford computer is fair game.  In order to be able to display a raw binary from a Ford ECM in a real-world units that might make sense to you, a definition is required.  The def is kind of like a roadmap that allows software (Binary Editor or EEC Editor) to translate what runs the car’s computer into something meaningful to you.  Defs have to be developed by a human being for each application.  PLEASE ASK US FOR HELP IF YOU ARE NOT SURE YOUR APPLICATION IS SUPPORTED!!!

    TunerPro / TunerPro RT (www.tunerpro.net) : Great for basic editing.  Free.  Somewhat limited definitions compared with other software.  At time of writing (11/28/09) lacks full support for QH, but beta versions have support.

    EEC Editor http://www.moates.net/eec-editor-software-from-paul-booth.html : Cheap ( <$50 ) software with fairly extensive editing support for editing Ford tunes.  EEC Editor requires you to purchase definitions on a per-strategy basis.  One strategy will cover more than one box code.  Definitions for datalogging can be purchased separately.  As of time of writing (11/28/09) has QH support for MANY applications including Fox body mustang (GUFB/GUFC/etc. A9L/A9P/C3W/etc.) 94-95 Mustang (T4M0, CBAZA) along with many 96-03 applications.  Custom definitions available for a fee.

    Binary Editor (http://www.eecanalyzer.net) : Relatively cheap ( $80 BE / $130 BE + EEC Analyzer) software with comprehensive editing support and comprehensive support for QH.  See here for a list of strategies supported.  Binary Editor comes with a bunch of definitions that are free and there are others you need to pay for.  You can see most of them at http://www.eecanalyzer.net in the downloads section.

  • Ford – Speed Density ECMs
  • The first EFI ECMs used by Ford were speed-density featuring a MAP sensor and either a manual or hydraulically shifted automatic (C4/C6/AOD/etc) transmission along with electronically controlled ignition advance with a distributor.  They’re commonly found on early fuel injected Ford trucks like F150, 250, 350, Broncos and even early speed-density 5L mustangs/crown vics/etc.

    Later models added AOD-E and E4OD electronically shifted transmissions.

    The first generation Lightning trucks came with a speed-density 351 and a E4OD transmission.

    These ECMs batch-fire injectors.  Swapping to later ECMs typically provides a slight improvement in fuel economy when the replacement ECM uses sequential injection.

    As a rule of thumb, software support is very limited for these models compared to MAF vehicles like Fox Body A9L platform.  These may not be the best choice for a beginner or someone without prior tuning experience.  Be warned.

    Strategy/BIN Swapping

    While support in general is very limited for these models, there are a select few models/applications that are well-supported.  Fortunately, it is sometime possible to “swap strategies” and use a bin file that has software support in an ECM which otherwise lacks direct support.  Unlike MAF ECMs, the specific combinations of engine components factor highly in each particular speed-density calibration.  Use of a well-supported bin/strategy with a different engine than it was originally intended will often require major tuning due to differences in cylinder count, engine displacement, compression, camshaft.

    The easiest way you can figure out which strategies will interchange is to match the hardware ID on the label of the ECM.

    C3P1 EFI-SD48B

    C3P1 EFI-SD48B HW ID

    This is an “EFI-SD48B” ECM.  Any bin/strategy that runs on it (including a first generation lightning C3P1 / LHBL0 / LHBL1 ) will also run on other EFI-SD48B ECMs, and probably EFI-SD48E etc.  I don’t have an exact guide for swapping but if it is very close it’s at least worth a shot.

    This document will be published incomplete and added to as I find more information and details.

    Supported Hardware-Software Combos

    These are known working combinations.  Each of these corresponds with a specific hardware ID or IDs known to interchange.

    EFI-SD4x family: speed density, E4OD transmission.  Native to Bronco, Lightning, F150, F250, F350 approximately 1992-1995

    • Box codes C3P1, C3P2, C3p3 (1st gen Lighning), ICY1, T2X1, many more
    • Hardware IDs EFI-SD48B EFI-SD48E and more
    • LHBL0 / LHBL1 strategies will run on the hardware, maybe more
    • Supported by Core Tuning definitions ( www.coretuning.net ) LHBL1 strategy
    • Supported by Binary Editor (maybe?) via LHBL1.xlsx definition (BE website)
    • Supported by Decipha’s speed-density definitions for TunerPro RT ( EFI-SD4X [A1C] www.efidynotuning.com )
    • Decipha suggests that his definitions for TunerPro RT will work for “EFI-SD4x” implying that broad strategy/bin swapping is possible.

     

    EFI-SD2X family: speed density, C4/C6/AOD non-electronic transmission.  Native to F150, Bronco approximately 1985-1993

    • Box codes 8PZ and more
    • Hardware IDs EF-SD20B and more
    • Supported by Decipha’s speed-densite definitions for TunerPro RT ( EFI-SD2X [C9C1]  www.efidynotuning.com )

     

    SFI-SD1 family: 87-88 Mustang 5.0 speed density

     

    Z2D1 / EFI-SD47B / F2TF-12A650-AHB: Supported by EEC Editor def/dlm edit/log via Z2D1 specific.  May also work with other options.

     

    Unsupported/Unknown Hardware-Software Combos

    SFI-SD3 / EA2 1988 Lincoln town car

  • Ford: Strategies supported
  • Although you can use our Ford hardware ( F3 Jaybird QuarterHorse ) on just about any 86-2004 Ford, software is much more lacking.  Currently (2021) there are three primary software packages that support our Ford hardware – Binary Editor, TunerPro RT, EEC Editor.  Each software package has a different set of ECMs that it works with, although there is quite a bit of overlap on more popular strategies.  US ECMs are best supported – Australian ECMs and European models are quite lacking in comparison.

    There is a section of this site dedicated to answering what you need for some common specific Ford vehicles.

    Note that most of the information about software support on this page will deal with STRATEGIES not processor codes.  We also have a box code-strategy cross reference.  If you don’t see your box code listed there, we will generally be able to help you figure out which strategy your ECM uses most of the time from its box code – send an email to support@moates.net.  Worst case, you will have to read the stock computer (with QuarterHorse or F2E ) and do the reverse engineering work to make a definition yourself.

    The following information is REASONABLY up to date as of 2020.  (I will try to update it periodically)


    Binary Editor Supported Strategies

    The best way to find out if your strategy is supported in Binary Editor is to download the software and install it!  Let it update itself.  It should download the latest and greatest strategies available.   You can also take a look at the strategies download page at EECAnalyzer.net for more information. Strategies are stored in “C:\Binary Editor\DEF” in a unique folder for each definition.

    Please note: datalogging and editing are controlled by the same definition file in BE.  You will have to load the definition along with a tune file to get an accurate idea of what exactly is supported.

    Please also note: some definitions (that end in “.xls”) can be used by anyone with the software.  Other strategy files (those with the “.cry” extension) require additional registration with their author to use them. Derek Fenwick is a particularly excellent strategy author to look for.

    Supported Strategies:

    (This list last updated 1/3/2018 – always check http://www.eecaalyzer.net for a current list!!!)
    Free strategies (vehicles) included “out of the box” with standard version of Binary Editor:

    CBAZA (94-95 Mustang/Cobra V8)
    CDAN4 (96-97 Mustang and Cobra 4.6L V8, others)
    ELK1 (? – check)
    U2L1 (? – check)
    FBJR3 (? – check)
    GUF1 (Fox body MAF – auto)
    GUFA (Fox body MAF – Cali?)
    GUFB (Fox body MAF – manual)
    HWAD4 (? check)
    KMAK6 (? – check)
    LA (? check)
    LA3 (? check)
    LB2 (? check)
    LHBH1 (? check)
    LUX0 (87-88 Mustang 5.0 speed density)
    NVMG8 (? check)
    PE (? check)
    VEX1 (94-95-ish MAF trucks)
    VHAF7 (? check)
    VP1 (? check)

    (This information was gathered from looking at http://www.eecanalyzer.net/index.php/strategies-calibrations and is provided without any guarantee for fitness. You should always check compatibility with your application before purchase. This is simply a list of free strategies available for download. They were not checked, validated or otherwise examined in any way. Do not assume that these files have all the parameters you require to change or have complete logging capabilities before examining them yourself, which can be done with the free trial version of BE)

    Binary Editor – Core Tuning Strategies:

    Core Tuning offer (arguably) the most comprehensive support for a wide range of vehicles out of all the software which works with the QuarterHorse.  Many definitions for popular EECV applications which are not publicly available otherwise are available on a paid commercial basis from Core. You can purchase them from www.coretuning.net if you are interested.

    Here is a list of their supported strategies:  http://www.coretuning.net/index.php/strategy

    Important: it is almost always cheaper to buy a “QuarterHorse bundle” from CoreTuning directly versus buying hardware from us and then software from them.

    Binary Editor – Derek Fenwick’s definitions

    1DEB – Australian EB series 5.0l XR8
    1DGA – Australian EB series 5.0l XR8
    2DCA – Australian EB series 5.0l
    A4A1 – 94 Lincoln Towncar
    AHACB – covers a variety of trucks, e.g. VEX1, WAY1. HOG0
    ANY1 – covers a variety 4.0L ’93/94 Explorers and Rangers
    C1A1 – ’92/93 2.3L Mustang (C1A1 and D1L1 catch codes)
    CAW0 – ’91/94 F series TCM (CAW0 catch code)
    CBAZ0 – ’94/95 5.0L trucks and 3.8L Thunderbirds
    CBAZA – ’94/95 5.0L Mustangs
    CCAQA – ’94/95 4.6L Thunderbird, Cougar and 3.8L Mustang
    CCAQE – ’94/95 4.6L Thunderbird, Cougar and 3.8L Mustang
    CDAN4 – ’96/97 4.6L Mustang, Thunderbird, Cougar, Grand Marquis, Crown Victoria, Towncar and 3.8L Mustang, Thunderbird, Cougar
    CDAN6 – ’96/97 4.6L Grand Marquis, Crown Victoria, Towncar
    CNAB1 – ’98 4.6L F series
    CZAJL – Lincoln Mk VIII
    CZAW0 – ’94/95 3.8L Thunderbird
    DC – ’87 5.0L Mustang (DC and DE catch codes)
    GHAJ0 – 2.0L Escort Cosworth
    GSALC – ’91 3.8L and 5.0L Thunderbird
    GSALI – ’92/93 3.8L and 5.0L Thunderbird
    GURE ’89/90 3.8L Thunderbird, Cougar
    LHBL0 – ’93/96 covers a variety of Lightnings and other trucks
    LHBL1 – covers some trucks (e.g. P2Y0 catch code)
    LHBL2 – covers some trucks (e.g. ALT0 catch code)
    LUX0 – ’87’88 5.0L Mustang
    NVAF91 – a variety of Australian EF series 5.0L
    NVMG84 – a variety of Australian EL series 5.0L
    NVMG85 – a variety of Australian EL series 5.0L

    To purchase a registration to use any of these definition files for Binary Editor contact him directly.
    be sure to include your machine code from Binary Editor’s Register >> Strategy Menu, type the “Strategy Name” just as its listed above
    in the “Name of creator of the Strategy file” type in “Derek” with no quotations.

    Strategy files are $25 each and gives you the ability to tune an unlimited amount of vehicles with that ECU strategy.

    TunerPro / TunerPro RT Supported Strategies

    TunerPro RT supports the QuarterHorse as of version 5.0 but QH and strategy support is still sparse.  There is extremely solid support for GUFB (A9L / Fox body) and CBAZA (T4M0 / J4J1 / 94-95 Mustang). You can download the TPRT5 specific files here from our site.

    Most of the EECV support has been done by Michael Ponthieux.  EFI Dyno Tuning has a wealth of information and definitions for using TunerPro for tuning.  There is a comprehensive list of definitions along with starter bins for various conversions.

    EEC Editor – Supported Strategies

    The best way to find out what strategies are supported by EEC Editor is to download and install it!  After you have updated the software, you can see all supported strategies by looking in the directory “C:\Program Files\EEC Editor\definitions”  which contains a file for each strategy EEC Editor can open and edit.  You can see which strategies support datalogging with the QuarterHorse by looking at the directory “C:\Program Files\EEC Editor\dlms”  Please download the software and play with your computer’s definition / DLM prior to purchase as not all strategies are equally complete.  EEC Editor is not currently (2021) very actively developed but it does have support for some vehicles that none of the other software packages do.

    Supported strategies:

    1990F250.DEF (edit only)
    1DDB.DEF (edit only)
    1deb.def (edit AND datalog)
    1dec.DEF (edit only)
    1dga.def (edit only)
    2dbd.def (edit only)
    2dca.DEF (edit only)
    2dda.DEF (edit only)
    3dea.def (edit only)
    a9u2.def (edit only)
    AGANF.def (edit only)
    AKAM9.def (edit only)
    akama.def (edit only)
    AKAMH.def (edit only)
    akc0.DEF (edit only)
    AOAG3.def (edit only)
    ATAN0.def (edit only)
    bnaf9.DEF (edit only)
    boae4.def (edit only)
    c3p2.def (edit only)
    C3W1.DEF (edit only)
    cbaz0.def (edit only)
    cbaza.def (edit AND datalog)
    CCAQA.def (edit only)
    CCAQE.def (edit only)
    CDAN4.def (edit only)
    CDAN6.def (edit only)
    CDAP3.def (edit only)
    cdba4.def (edit only)
    cfak7.DEF (edit only)
    cmai3.def (edit only)
    cmai7.def (edit only)
    cmai9.def (edit only)
    cmba0.def (edit only)
    CNAB0.def (edit only)
    CNAB1.def (edit only)
    cqab1.def (edit only)
    crai8.def (edit only)
    CRAIA.def (edit only)
    CRAIB.def (edit only)
    CRAIC.def (edit only)
    craj0.DEF (edit only)
    ctbae.def (edit only)
    cvae6.DEF (edit only)
    cvae7.DEF (edit only)
    CVAF1.def (edit only)
    cvba0.DEF (edit only)
    cvba2.DEF (edit only)
    d9s.DEF (edit only)
    DA1.def (edit AND datalog)
    GVAKA.def (edit only)
    gvakb.def (edit only)
    gufa.def (edit AND datalog)
    gufb.def (edit AND datalog)
    gufc.DEF (edit AND datalog)
    gure.def (edit AND datalog)
    hug02.DEF (edit only)
    HWAD3.DEF (edit only)
    icy1.def (edit only)
    kmak6.def (edit only)
    kqad2.DEF (edit only)
    kraf5.def (edit only)
    LA3.def (edit only)
    LB3.DEF (edit only)
    m2y.def (edit only)
    maag4.DEF (edit only)
    MMAH0.def (edit only)
    MPAM1.def (edit only)
    mrad2.DEF (edit only)
    mrad3.DEF (edit only)
    odal1.DEF (edit only)
    ODAL1.def (edit only)
    OMAD3.def (edit only)
    OMAD4.def (edit only)
    OMAE1.def (edit only)
    OMAE2.def (edit only)
    p2y0.def (edit AND datalog)
    PCAG2.def (edit only)
    PCAG6.def (edit only)
    pf3.def (edit only)
    pybd3.DEF (edit only)
    pycl5.def (edit only)
    PYCL7.def (edit only)
    QAAC5.def (edit only)
    qbaa0.DEF (edit only)
    rbadb.def (edit only)
    rbaed.DEF (edit only)
    REAC3.def (edit only)
    reac4.DEF (edit only)
    RGAF2.def (edit only)
    rhagb.def (edit only)
    RQAD6.def (edit only)
    rtai0.DEF (edit only)
    rtai1.def (edit only)
    rtaj0.DEF (edit only)
    RVAF1.def (edit only)
    RVAF3.DEF (edit only)
    rvafa.DEF (edit only)
    rvafb.DEF (edit only)
    rvai1.DEF (edit only)
    RWAI2.def (edit only)
    ryae0.def (edit only)
    RYAF0.def (edit only)
    RYAF1.def (edit AND datalog)
    ryak1.DEF (edit only)
    RYBE2.def (edit only)
    RZAN0.def (edit only)
    RZAO1.def (edit only)
    rzao2.def (edit only)
    RZASA.def (edit only)
    rzaso.def (edit only)
    tauf0.DEF (edit only)
    VET1.DEF (edit only)
    way1.def (edit only)
    X2S2.def (edit only)

    Australian EEC Support list

    Tuner Pro seems to be the weapon of choice for most Australian EECs.  You can get more info and an updated list of supported cars, box codes and strategies here:

    Australian EECs : http://www.tiperformance.com.au/technical.html

    PCMHacking.net also has some Ford information.

  • Ford: TunerPro Definitions for QuarterHorse
  • In addition to any definitions you might find on TunerPro’s Webpage or TI Performance‘s webpage, there are also some definitions we try to maintain.  If you are going to use the QuarterHorse with any of the strategies on this page with TunerPro, these are the definitions we recommend you use.

    TunerPro Defs from Moates

    89-93 Mustang / Cobra GUFB strategy – A9L, A3M, A3M1, X3Z, S0Z, etc.  A9L-GUFB-TunerPro Download (Created by Sailorbob and modded by Michael Ponthieux, Craig Moates, Dave Blundell)

    94-95 Mustang / Cobra CBAZA strategy – T4M0, U4P0, W4H0, J4J1, etc. T4M0-CBAZA-TunerPro-Download (Created by Sailorbob and modded by Michael Ponthieux, Cody Hindman, Craig Moates, Dave Blundell)

    Random Community Definitions

    These definitions were found randomly.  Little is known about their origins, accuracy, author or maintenance.

    CVAF1: CVAF1_TPRT

    CVBA2: 99-00ish 3.8L V6 Mustang CVBA2_TPRT

    Decipha’s Definitions

    Michael Pontieux / Decipha has put together a pretty wide range of definitions for TunerPro. Some of these are designed to be paired with a custom ROM like the “A9L2” where Ford’s routines have been modified. Some like FBGI0 are definitions that work with “pure” Ford code. Following his instructions, many 99-04 ECUs can be supported. Be prepared to do a lot of reading on his site before trying to use these definitions as there are a few tricks that make things different from other Ford tuning softwares. You may need to grab base tunes as well as definitions to have a working set of tools. Downloads here.

    List of supported strategies as of 3/2017:

    • GUFx / 89-93 Mustang V8 (modified GUFB to add extra features, more info on his site)
    •  CBAZA / 94-95 Mustang V8 (note: files available for using CBAZA with EDIS coils)
    • CDAN4 / 96-97 Fords, mostly Mustang
    • CRAJ0 / 98 Cobra & V6
    • CVAE7 / 99 Cobra
    • CVAF1 / 99-02 Mustang V8
    • MPAM0 / 00 Excursion V10 6.8L 4R100
    • OMAE2 / 02/03 Harley F-150
    • FBGI0 / 03-04 Cobra
    • FBFG2 / 03-04 Mustang V8 (99-04 V6 as well.  Can be used on other ECUs with code modification, read on his site for more)
    • RZASA / 03/04 Marauder
    • RZAS0 / 03/04 Crown Vic/Linc Town
    • PRDO0 / 2006 Ranger 4cyl
    • CMAI9 – 97/98 Mark VIII (Pending Maintenance – available upon request)
    • DOAV7 – 02/04 Escape (Pending Maintenance – available upon request)
    • MQAH1 – 99/03 F-150 4R100 (Pending Maintenance – available upon request)
    • MZAK0 – 99/04 F-250 (all 4r100) (Pending Maintenance – available upon request)
    • RWAI2 – 99/03 F-150 4R70W (Pending Maintenance – available upon request)
  • Ford Tuning Class April 2013 (finished)
  • Thank you NOLA Motorsports Park for hosting us for the First Moates 4/20-4/21 Ford EFI training!

    The quality of the facility, students, participants, and support staff all worked together to yield a ‘class act’ of a weekend!

    We all had a great time, and everyone learned something. Group discussions, generous facilities, and a rich diversity of participants all contributed to the weekend’s success.

    We will update this page with additional presentation material, video content, feedback, and review as it is prepared, but for now, here are some photos of the group going through the paces of teaching and learning.

    class_9

    Dave getting ready to do some ‘airport departure’ tuning.

    class_6

    Group trying to decide who messed with the lap timer and who ‘actually’ won.

    class_5

    Mark & Michael in the back row.

    class_2

    Steve using the coffee makers as props while explaining LWFM methods.

    j3_cleaning

    Dave bending the J3 port to his will.

    class_8class_7class_4class_3class_1


  • Ford Tuning Class Fall 2013 – Louisiana (finished)
  • We’re offering another class!

    We are going to be offering a class on tuning Fords with QuarterHorse November 15th, 16th and 17th in Baton Rouge, Louisiana.   There will be a mixture of classroom instruction, live in-car demonstration of logging techniques with street driving and dyno tuning and techniques.  Classroom instruction will take place in the Moates Event Center around the corner from Moates HQ.  Street tuning and dyno instruction will take place on a rented dynojet in the area.  Dave Blundell, Moates tech support and former tuner at several Midwest speed shops will be the instructor.   Registration will be limited to 12 people in order to keep the class manageable.

    Cost

    Registration for the class will be $250.   You can pay with any of the methods that we accept on the website (Paypal, Credit Card) in advance or pay cash/money order at the door.  If you’re going to pay at the door, we ask that you purchase the class item from our website and select “Check or Money order” at checkout so we can keep an accurate headcount.  All of the products that are used for the class will be available for purchase at/after the event.

    You can register for the event here.

    Schedule of Events

    Day 1 (Friday November 15) will focus on general theory of how engines work, how electronic engine management works and general approaches to calibration of engine management systems.  Chances are, if you’ve been tuning cars for five years you probably already know a lot of this stuff but it probably wouldn’t hurt you to sit through it again.  If you’re new to engine management, expect your brain to hurt.  The goal of day one is to help you understand how the many pieces of engines, electronics and sensors that you will be dealing with fit together – the big picture.  Most of this day will NOT deal with Ford specific terms and methods.  At the end of the day, you should have a strong understanding of spark ignition internal combustion engines, how and why engines make power, be able to name and explain the function of sensors likely to be found on a fuel injected engine and understand the conditions needed for achieving specific goals such as fuel economy, power or keeping and engine in one piece.  If you’ve previously worked with other systems of engine management, you might look at what you already know in a new light.

    Day 2 (Saturday November 16) will focus on early Ford engine management.  The morning session will focus on Ford specific terms and procedures for running an engine.  The emphasis will be on the most common and important parameters necessary for adjustment.   Fuel, spark, idle and limits will be covered as well as some of the limitations and pitfalls of using factory computers.  Both forced induction and naturally aspirated setups will be discussed.  After lunch, we will demonstrate setting up Moates hardware and how TunerPro RT and Binary Editor 2012 software can be used to make adjustments necessary for tuning Ford vehicles.   At the end of day two, you will have an understanding of the terms used in Ford EFI, be able to pick out the most important items that you need to change in a calibration when tuning and see how software can be used with Moates tools to tune vehicles.  GUFB (aka 89-93 MAF Fox Body Mustangs) and CBAZA (aka 94-95 Mustangs) will be the focus of this day.

    Day 3 (Sunday November 17) will focus on hands-on usage of TPRT and BE, acquiring data from street and dyno use, analyzing it, diagnosing issues and making changes to tune your vehicle.  We will be acquiring data on the street and on the dyno and using it to make targeted changes.   This will be putting the theory from previous days together with real vehicles and seeing how to apply our understanding of Ford MAF systems to achieve results.  At the end of day three, you will be able to understand enough of Ford EFI systems and the software available to work with Moates tools to be able to acquire data and make precise changes based on measurements rather than simply “mashing buttons” to get results.

    Plan on 8-10 hours of being focused per day.  We’ll typically run on a 9ish-6ish kind of day depending on how things go.  (Baton Rouge is in Central Time – CST)

    There will be snacks and drinks provided. Previously, we had optional group dinner afterwards that worked out well so we’ll probably try to do that again.

    We’ll try to have a good chunk of the curriculum up on the support site prior to the class for you to review and prepare.

    Travel Information

    There are a limited number of beds in the Moates event center available for FREE.  If you’re interested in staying where we’re having the class, put a note in the ‘Comments’ field when you sign up for the class.  These spaces will go on a first-come first-serve basis.  Additional space is available at area hotels.  Send us an email if you need a recommendation on hotels.

    Other Class Opportunities

    Check out the support site for other opportunities to take a class on using Moates products.  This class will also be offered in October in Cincinnati, Ohio.

  • Ford Tuning Class Fall 2013 – Ohio (finished)
  • We’re offering another class!

    We are going to be offering a class on tuning Fords with QuarterHorse October 25th, 26th and 27th in Milford, Ohio (East side of Cincinnati).  There will be a mixture of classroom instruction, live in-car demonstration of logging techniques with street driving and dyno tuning and techniques.  Classroom instruction will take place in the conference room of the Homewood Suites by Hilton Hotel.  Street tuning and dyno instruction will take place on the Dynojet 224 dyno of Easy Street, which is literally across the street from the hotel.  Dave Blundell, Moates tech support and former tuner at Modular Depot and Easy Street will be the instructor.   Registration will be limited to 15 people in order to keep the class manageable.

    Cost

    Registration for the class will be $250.   You can pay with any of the methods that we accept on the website (Paypal, Credit Card) in advance or pay cash/money order at the door.  If you’re going to pay at the door, we ask that you purchase the class item from our website and select “Check or Money order” at checkout so we can keep an accurate headcount.  All of the products that are used for the class will be available for purchase at/after the event.

    You can register for the event here.

    Schedule of Events

    Day 1 (Friday 10/25) will focus on general theory of how engines work, how electronic engine management works and general approaches to calibration of engine management systems.  Chances are, if you’ve been tuning cars for five years you probably already know a lot of this stuff but it probably wouldn’t hurt you to sit through it again.  If you’re new to engine management, expect your brain to hurt.  The goal of day one is to help you understand how the many pieces of engines, electronics and sensors that you will be dealing with fit together – the big picture.  Most of this day will NOT deal with Ford specific terms and methods.  At the end of the day, you should have a strong understanding of spark ignition internal combustion engines, how and why engines make power, be able to name and explain the function of sensors likely to be found on a fuel injected engine and understand the conditions needed for achieving specific goals such as fuel economy, power or keeping and engine in one piece.  If you’ve previously worked with other systems of engine management, you might look at what you already know in a new light.

    Day 2 (Saturday 10/26) will focus on early Ford engine management.  The morning session will focus on Ford specific terms and procedures for running an engine.  The emphasis will be on the most common and important parameters necessary for adjustment.   Fuel, spark, idle and limits will be covered as well as some of the limitations and pitfalls of using factory computers.  Both forced induction and naturally aspirated setups will be discussed.  After lunch, we will demonstrate setting up Moates hardware and how TunerPro RT and Binary Editor 2012 software can be used to make adjustments necessary for tuning Ford vehicles.   At the end of day two, you will have an understanding of the terms used in Ford EFI, be able to pick out the most important items that you need to change in a calibration when tuning and see how software can be used with Moates tools to tune vehicles.  GUFB (aka 89-93 MAF Fox Body Mustangs) and CBAZA (aka 94-95 Mustangs) will be the focus of this day.

    Day 3 (Sunday 10/27) will focus on hands-on usage of TPRT and BE, acquiring data from street and dyno use, analyzing it, diagnosing issues and making changes to tune your vehicle.  We will be acquiring data on the street and on the Dynojet 224 dyno at Easy Street and using it to make targeted changes.   This will be putting the theory from previous days together with real vehicles and seeing how to apply our understanding of Ford MAF systems to achieve results.  At the end of day three, you will be able to understand enough of Ford EFI systems and the software available to work with Moates tools to be able to acquire data and make precise changes based on measurements rather than simply “mashing buttons” to get results.

    Plan on 8-10 hours of being focused per day.  We’ll typically run on a 9ish-6ish kind of day depending on how things go. (Cincinnati is on Eastern Time, EST)

    There will be snacks and drinks provided.  There are also numerous restaurants within walking/short drive distance of the facilities we will be at.  At the last class, we had optional group dinner afterwards that worked out well so we’ll probably try to do that again.

    We’ll try to have a good chunk of the curriculum up on the support site prior to the class for you to review and prepare.

    Travel Information

    There will be ten rooms reserved and a group rate ($109/night for room with one queen + pull out couch + mini kitchen) at the hotel where the presentations will be held until 9/26 (one month prior).  Mention the Moates tuning class to get the special rate.  There are lots of other places to stay in the area – if you have any trouble contact us.

    Cincinnati-Northern Kentucky (CVG) airport is about 30 minute drive.  Dayton International (DAY) is right around an hour drive.  Columbus International (CMH) is about an hour forty minute drive.  There is adequate parking at the hotel and the shop across the street where we will be using the dyno.

    Other Class Opportunities

    Check out the support site for other opportunities to take a class on using Moates products.  This class will also be offered in Louisiana in November/December.

  • Ford Tuning: Getting Started with Moates Hardware
  • Chapter 1: Introduction, Overview and Summary

    Questions you may have coming in:

    • How do I determine what is needed? Keep reading!
    • What vehicles are compatible? Hardware will work with all 2004 and older Ford vehicles with a J3 port, depending on software support.
    • What are the capabilities of Moates hardware? Realtime tuning, logging live data, burning chips, switching between multiple programs
    • What hardware and software options are available, and at what cost? Keep reading!
    • How do I learn to tune EEC? What learning resources are available? Keep reading!  We’ll provide references.

    Vehicle Compatibility

    • Hardware is compatible with all year/model Ford vehicles that have a J3 port.  This generally covers 86-2004 model years.
    • If you already have a binary file (bin) or hex file (hex) that is tuned for your vehicle. you can use one of our chips.
    • If you need to make changes (tune) to get your vehicle where you want it, you are limited by software support.
    • Some ECMs are simply not supported in software that works with our hardware because of lack of definition information.
    • It’s important to check for software support before purchase. If you have an uncommon vehicle (for example, a 1995 Festiva) you may be out of luck with our products.
    • We need certain information to tell if your vehicle is supported. (click Email us to check before purchase!

    Overview of Tuning Process

    • Determine your target vehicle boxcode and strategy.
      • The Boxcode is typically a 3 or 4-digit letter/number code on the EEC computer. ( ‘A9L’  or ‘T4M0’ for example)  This represents a calibration for a particular engine/transmission using a particular strategy.
      • A Strategy is the set of procedures that the ECM follows to run an engine.  Combined with a calbration, this determines how the engine will operate.
        • The strategy will determine things like whether a MAF or MAP sensor is used, how spark and fuel are calculated, how idle is controlled, etc.
        • Each strategy needs a definition (or ‘def’) to work.  The definition tells the software how to interpret the binary and display it in a format you can understand with tables and real-world values.
        • For instance, the A9L boxcode, belongs to the GUFB strategy.  The A3M boxcode also belongs to the GUFB strategy.  You can change a bunch of parameters on a A3M computer and have it run 100% identical to a A9L computer.
    • Review your software options in terms of availability.
      • First: figure out which software supports your box code.  Support varies from package to package.  Check with each software vendor for the most up-to-date supported options.
      • Next: download software and install it.  You can check out the interface and features at this time without paying for anything.
      • Finally: After you have found a software package with an interface that you like which supports your strategy, go to our web store to purchase.  You will need to have already installed software prior to purchasing in order to provide us with information to license it.
    • Determine your tuning needs to guide your purchases.
      • Do you just need to burn chips?
      • Do you want to be able to make changes while the vehicle is running? (emulation)
      • Do you want to be able to log vehicle parameters while the engine is running? (datalogging)
      • Do you want a more accurate measure of the air/fuel mixture? (buy a wideband)
      • Decide what capabilities you need and then purchase hardware as appropriate.
    • Install hardware.
      • Clean that J3 port PROPERLY!
      • To clean the J3 port, you generally must remove the case from the ECM, gently rub the J3 port with Scotchbrite or a mildly abrasive kitchen scrubber.  (‘mildly’ is important – you do NOT want to rub hard enough to remove the copper traces from the circuit board!)  A final clean with brake clean, starting fluid  or another mild solvent doesn’t hurt.  A properly cleaned J3 port will have a very, very slight crosshatch visible on the ‘fingers’ of the connector.
      • Golden rule: ALWAYS TAKE THE KEYS OUT OF THE IGNITION (CAR OFF!!!)  WHEN INSERTING OR REMOVING THINGS ON THE J3 PORT. Failure to do so can result in a fried ECM, fried chip/QuarterHorse or both.
    • Install USB drivers
      • The same USB drivers are used for all Ford products
      • USB driver is a free download from the webstore, it comes with config instructions. (download)
      • If you need more visual directions, there is an install guide available on the Moates support site.
      • If you have trouble with the install, there is troubleshooting guide available on the Moates support site.
    • Setup software and perform initial configuration
      • Establish communications, check settings – this procedure will vary depending on software package you are using.
      • Select the appropriate strategy for your box code and load any appropriate definition files.
      • Program hardware with a calibration to serve as a starting point.  A stock tune with a few key parameters modified to suit the vehicle at hand is great.  You’re just looking for something good enough to get the car to fire and (hopefully) idle.
      • If you are datalogging, select and configure datalogging payload matrix (PIDs) – i.e. what you’re interested in monitoring.
    • Gather performance data, analyze it, and make changes toward an optimized result.
      • Parameters are gradually adjusted to achieve desired targets.
      • This is an iterative process, where adjustments are made and the results are evaluated followed by further adjustments.
      • Please see our subsequent chapters on Ford Tuning (available separately).
        • Basic Tuning Techniques and Common Examples
        • Advanced Tuning and Tricky Combinations

    Chapter 2: Hardware Selection and Installation

    Several types of hardware are available and needed depending on desired functionality.

    Laptop PC

    • Windows XP/Vista/7 are all compatible with the Ford tuning software.
    • Something 5 years old or newer is recommended (no old 486 machines!).
    • Internet access is recommended to facilitate licensing and software installations.
    • USB ports (at least 1) are required. All needed cables are included with the hardware.
    • If logging wideband, a serial-to-USB converter may be needed. ($37 on our webstore – link)

    F3 Chip modules

    • These modules install onto the J3 port of the EEC box.
    • One per vehicle, $60 per unit – link.
    • J3 port MUST be thoroughly cleaned, both sides, before installation!
      • Disassemble case, scrape off coating with non-metallic scraper or fingernail.
      • Clean both sides with Scotchbrite, not sandpaper.
      • Don’t be too rough, just polish it to a nice crosshatch, not down to the copper.
      • Clean with paper towel and alcohol or toluene.
    • Two-position switch capable with user-added toggle.  Directions for switching are on support site.  (link)
    • Reprogrammable many times using Jaybird.

    Jaybird mini-USB chip reader/writer

    • Small size, low cost, $75 – link.
    • Allows reading and writing of the F3 modules.
    • No datalogging or emulation with the Jaybird. No EEC box reading.  Most basic chip programmer available.

    Quarterhorse Realtime Emulator and Datalogger

    • Hardware unit is $249 – link.  All cabling is included, along with ferrite shields and USB bulkhead connections.
    • Optional rotary switch ($30 – link) can be used to select from several different programs on the device, switching on-the-fly.  Works for EECIV ONLY.
    • Fits onto J3 port like a chip module –  port MUST be clean as with F3 modules.
    • On some early EEC boxes, several components will need to be gently bent out of the way for clearance during installation.
    • The Quarterhorse is an integrated unit that can do several things:
      • Realtime Emulation
        • Changes in the calibration take effect immediately while engine is running.
        • No disturbance in engine operation or communications.
        • Changes in software are synchronized on the Quarterhorse.
      • Datalogging
        • Requires special definition file with ‘patch code’ written for the QuarterHorse, allowing RAM on the EEC to be shadowed onto the Quarterhorse.
        • Unprecedented access to variables and sensor values through the QuarterHorse without additional datalogging hardware.
        • Logging rates in excess of 5 kHz possible.  Most software logs around 20 Hz, which is great for tuning.
      • EEC Reading
        • EEC must be installed and powered in-vehicle with QH installed.
        • You can read the tune from the EEC box and save it to file.
        • This can be done with a stock EEC to acquire the base calibration.
        • You will be able to harvest the active calibration that has been programmed with a flash programmer this way.

    Burn2 with F2A and F2E adapters

    • The Burn2 ($85 – link) is a general purpose chip programmer that can be used for many different devices.
    • When used with the F2A adapter ($10 – link), it can be used to read/write F3 modules.
    • If the F2E adapter is added (another $10 – link), you will be able to read EEC boxes.
    • No emulation or datalogging – this is a simple chip programmer only.
    • This hardware combination is best suited for people that plan to tune vehicles from many different manufacturers.  If you plan on tuning exclusively Fords, consider the Jaybird as a less expensive alternative.

    F8 chip module with Destiny programmer

    • No emulation or datalogging – this is a simple chip with switchable tunes.
    • Available exclusively through our distributor DP Tuner
    • The $165 F8 module holds 8 switchable tunes and can be reprogrammed in-vehicle without removing the chip from the EEC!
    • The $150 Destiny programmer is used with a 4-pin switch cable while F8 module stays installed on EEC.
    • Once programmed, the $30 rotary switch can optionally be connected as a calibration selector.

    Wideband O2 Sensor and Controller

    • Used to sense your engine’s Air-Fuel ratio through exhaust gas analysis.
    • Units such as the Innovate DB-Red LC1 Gauge Kit /w/ O2 ($209 – link) are very affordable.
    • Software (discussed separately here) supports direct logging of the Innovate device data using a serial interface.  This is the preferred method of logging wideband data because it avoids all the pitfalls of using analog signals.
    • Analog outputs from the wideband (such as the LC1) can be connected directly to the EEC in some cases (unused EGR pin on A9L for example).
    • Wideband O2 readings critical for tuning fueling parameters.

    Chapter 3: Software Selection, Installation, and Licensing

    Several different software packages currently work with our hardware.  Cost varies considerably considerably from package to package along with capabilities.  Each software package also has its own unique flavor of interface – you will probably like one better than another.  Luckily, you can download and check them out prior to purchase.  Also remember that support for various box codes / strategies varies considerably from package to package.  It is important to investigate not just whether there is ANY support for a particular strategy but whether the items you require to tune your vehicle are supported – definition files vary considerably from software to software.  Fortunately, the availability of ‘trial’ versions makes it possible to ensure you to find a software package that fits your needs without having to purchase each one.

    Binary Editor ( http://www.eecanalyzer.net )

    • Written by Clint Garrity.
    • Currently has the largest user base.
    • Cost is $80 for the base application which is registered to a specific PC.
    • Includes many of the most common and popular definitions (GUFB, etc) with no additional cost.  ( this list has almost all the “free” definitions along with some pay defs )
    • Other ‘premium’ encoded definitions available at extra cost ($50-150+) from the definition author.
    • Tends to benefit from a faster/newer laptop. Code is a bit heavy, so older PCs are taxed.  Think 2Ghz P4 / 512Mb ram realistic minimum.
    • Includes EEC reading, chip reading and burning, datalogging, and emulation capabilities when used with the appropriate hardware.
    • Also includes logging for wideband (Innovate, PLX, etc).
    • Also includes optional support for standalone dataloggers, J2534 interfaces.
    • Companion software EEC Analyzer is available for an additional $50. Not necessary, but it helps with data interpretation.
    • Licensing occurs after you install the software from the available downloads, through a menu item within the BE and EA software programs.
    • Both BE and EA licenses can be purchased from the webstore with information from the program.  See webstore product page for further instructions.

    EEC Editor ( http://www.moates.net )

    • Written by Paul Booth.
    • Fairly lightweight software – does not require a very fast PC to work well.
    • Cost ranges from $20-65 for each strategy depending on options.
      • EEC-IV is $20 for editing DEF (emulation and chip burning) plus $25 for datalogging (DLM) .
      • EEC-V is $10 more ($30+$35).
      • In order to have a comprehensive tuning solution for a typical fox body Mustang, you would need to order the GUFB def ($20) and the GUFB DLM ($25) along with a QuarterHorse.  This would allow you to tune any number of vehicles using the A9L, A3M, etc. processor codes.  You can also burn chips with the Jaybird/BURN2+F2A for any strategies you have purchased.
    • Includes logging for Innovate Wideband (LC1, LM1, etc) at no additional charge.
    • List of available supported strategies is listed on the webstore.

    TunerPro RT v5 ( http://www.tunerpro.net )

    • Written by Mark Mansur.
    • Software license is optional (nag screen) but encouraged for $30.
    • Editing portion of software *extremely* lightweight – can run well on older PCs.  Parts of logging engine considerably more demanding.
    • Many definitions are available for editing only, see Tunerpro.net and our website for details.
    • Editing, chip burning and emulation are supported by TPRT V4 and TPRT V5.
    • Datalogging using the QuarterHorse is supported by TunerPro RT V5 via new the ADX format.  See here for updated definitions.
    • QuarterHorse vehicle support is very limited compared to other software, but some of the most popular ones (GUFB CBAZA etc) are well-developed and available at time of writing (December 2010)

    Flash & Burn Interface ( Moates/TunerPro )

    • This is a low-level utility for reading and writing F3 chip modules using Jaybird or  BURN1/BURN2 + F2A
    • Capable of reading EEC boxes using BURN2+F2A+F2E.  Does not work with QuarterHorse
    • If you have a raw binary file ( bin ) you can use Flash n Burn to program a F3 chip module
    • No cost, can be downloaded from the webstore.

    F8 Destiny Utility ( http://www.moates.net )

    • For use with a Destiny and F8 multi-position in-situ chip module.
    • Allows easy management of stacks of tunes on the module with PC-based selection.
    • No cost, can be downloaded from the webstore.

    USB Driver ( Moates.net / FTDI )

    • Needed to allow PC to communicate with the USB hardware (Quarterhorse, Jaybird, BURN2, etc).
    • In many cases, working drivers will be detected by Windows via plug n play.
    • If you need more visual directions, there is an install guide available on the Moates support site.
    • If you have trouble with the install, there is troubleshooting guide available on the Moates support site.

    Chapter 4: Suggested Techniques for Effective Calibration of EEC Systems

    Vehicle Inspection and Preparation

    • CRITICAL part of the tuning process. Start here, really.  If you fail here, you will never succeed.
    • Several areas of the vehicle should always be analyzed before you begin the effort.
      • Smoking – learn to identify fuel (black) vs. oil (grey-blue) vs. coolant (white/sweet smelling).  You cannot fix oil smoke or coolant smoke with a tune.
      • Compression – you should have all cylinders within 10% compression of each other.  If smoking, damage to old spark plugs or general appearances make you suspicious of the motor’s health, check it before you start.  It’s a lot easier to deal with a motor with poor compression BEFORE you beat the snot out of it in the course of tuning it.  Many people skip this but it is something to think about because a motor that is already hurt is very likely to blow up or experience a catastrophic failure during tuning.
      • Check base timing, adjust as needed. (all vehicles with a distributor)
      • Evaluate TPS voltage.  Minimum/maximum values should be within acceptable limits.  Check for reversed wires – voltage should increase as throttle opens.
      • Look at MAF intake routing, make sure there are no obvious vacuum / intake leaks between the MAF and the intake valves.  Think cracked/split/loose hoses, bad gaskets, open ports, dry rotted couplers, hoses connected both before and after the MAF, …
      • O2 sensors should be operational without any exhaust leaks before the sensors.  For some reason, cut and soldered “extensions” for long tube headers often cause problems.  Plug and play extenders are *highly* recommended.  If you know that you do not have proper stock O2 sensors, REMEMBER TO TURN OFF O2 FEEDBACK!!!
      • If you are using a wideband sensor, you need to make sure there are no exhaust leaks before the wideband.  Flex tubing, poor joints between headers- midpipes and cracks in tubing can all create havoc.
      • If applicable, pay attention to which bank the wideband is installed in – bank-bank differences can be a powerful diagnostic tool.  Pay attention to how far the wideband is from the engine’s exhaust ports – there is always some lag between combustion events and measurement.  When things are changing quickly, this is critical.
      • Widebands need calibrated periodically, generally in free air.  Wideband sensors need replaced periodically.  Leaded fuel kills them very quickly.  Proper care and feeding of widebands is crucial to their effectiveness.
      • Be aware of catalytic converters.  Always tap them (GENTLY) and listen for suspicious noises that would indicate a catalytic converter that is degrading.  Clogged cats can rob literally hundreds of horsepower.  It is possible to place a wideband sensor AFTER a catalytic converter but remember that the cat will very slightly skew readings.
      • Make sure you have enough fuel pump and injectors for the power level you are looking for.  For a V8, “Injector size in #/hr * 14 = max hp” is a crude rule of thumb.  There are tons of injector calculators to be found if you want a better idea.
      • Ensure that fuel pressure is sane.  40psi with no vacuum reference is generally about where most OEM regulators are set.  You should be able to see a difference in fuel pressure between key-on-engine-off, idle and blipping the throttle.  Fuel pressure should be lowest when vacuum is highest.  Fuel pressure should increase when you blip the throttle as manifold pressure increases.
      • You need a MAF capable of metering enough air for your power goals.   There are ways to increase the metering capacity of a given meter, but tuning that properly is an advanced topic.  Keeping it simple: get a meter that can handle your airflow needs.
      • You need a functioning alternator and battery.  Battery voltage plays a role in crucial things like injector opening time and coil charge duration.  If your charging system is not functioning correctly, your tune may drastically change if/when you fix it.  Rule of thumb: if your battery voltage ever drops below 13 volts with the motor running, you will run into trouble.
      • On a similar note, underdrive and overdrive pulleys can cause real issues.  Pay attention if you see them.
      • Check for emissions hardware ( purge, smog pump, EGR, etc. ) that is missing.  In many cases these items can be disabled but you need to pay attention to what is present compared to what the ECM expects.
      • Basic maintenance should not be overlooked.  If it is important for a “normal” car it is twice as important in a performance application.
        • Spark plugs: correct heat range, appropriate gap, not fouled.  Consider power level, fuel and ignition system.  AVOID PLATINUM PLUGS FOR PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS!!!  Copper or iridium will serve you much better.
        • Plug wires: no cracks/arcing, properly crimped ends, appropriate length so there isn’t too much tension
        • Firing order: firing order is determined by the camshaft (mostly) not the block or computer.
        • Spark boxes: great for distributor engines, unneeded/problematic for mod motors
        • Coil packs: Coil-per-cylinder (99-04 generally) applications like ***OEM*** coils best. (according to Dave B.)  MSD, Accel, Granatelli, … are all cause for concern especially with boost.
        • Oil and coolant: always check fluids before starting.  Quick check, potentially horrible consequences if low/out.
        • Fans / overheating: it is always a good idea to check that radiator fans work.  A car that overheats cannot be tuned.
        • Belts and Idlers: All serpentine belts must be in good shape.  Cracks, missing ribs, etc. will all cause problems.  Any idler pulleys must spin freely.
        • Tension:  Belt Tensioner should not be extended fully with the engine off.  Adjust belt length so that tensioner is in the lower third of its adjustment range with the motor off.  (i.e. it can move 2/3 through its range to increase belt tension – it should be mostly compressed when motor idle)  This is particularly important for supercharged applications.
        • Fuel filter: Fords are *horrible* about clogging fuel filters.  Especially if the car has been sitting for any significant period of time, change the fuel filter.  Motorcraft/OEM filters seem to hold up better than many cheap aftermarket ones.
        • Fuel age and type: Gasoline degrades with time.  Do not expect fuel that is more than a month or two old to be of the same quality as fresh gas.  Be particularly careful with heavily oxygenated fuels (i.e. VP Q16) and alcohols (ethanol, methanol, E85, etc.) in contact with fuel system components for large periods of time.
        • Clean air filter and MAF.  Oiled filters generally cause MAFs to get dirty.  Clean MAFs only after they have had a long time to cool – hot MAF+liquid=death.  Clean *GENTLY* with brake clean, starting fluid, or other organic solvents.
    • Remember, you can’t fix mechanical or electrical issues by reprogramming the ECM!!! The results you achieve with tuning will only be as good as the material you start working with.  Garbage in, garbage out.

    Datalogging: What’s important and what does it mean? What should we be interested in? What to select?

    • There are certain sensors that you will almost always want to keep an eye on because they are critical to engine operation:
      • RPM – how fast the motor is spinning
      • MAFV / MAF counts – a “raw” value representing the reading from the MAF sensor
      • Airflow – a value calculated  by the ECM from the raw sensor MAF voltage that represents how much air is being ingested by the engine.  This is often represented in some form of “real world” value, like Kg/hr or Lbs/min
      • Load – from 94-2004 “Load” is the main factor involved in determining spark advance.
      • Spark Advance – when the ECM is commanding sparks to be fired.
      • TPS – Throttle Position Sensor.  How far open the throttle is, i.e. how hard you’re pressing the gas pedal
      • ECT – Engine Coolant Temperature(how hot or cold coolant flowing through the engine is)
      • IAT – Intake Air Temperature (how hot or cold air entering the engine is)
    • Depending on what you are trying to do, there are other items you may want to pay attention to as well.
      • Injector Pulsewidth – How long the injectors open.  This can be useful both for “sanity checking” and to ensure you do not run out of injector – there is only a fixed time available at a given RPM to fire injectors.
      • HEGO1/2 – Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor.  Measures the presence or absence of oxygen in the exhaust in order to try to determine whether the motor is running rich or lean.   Watching the raw HEGO voltages can give you some kind of very basic indication of fueling.  These sensors experience a large change in voltage in a very small area centered around a stoichiometric mixture ( 1.0 lambda or about 14.7:1 Air-Fuel Ratio or AFR)
      • STFTs – Short Term Fuel Trims.  These are IMMEDIATE changes the ECM makes in response to HEGO readings in order to steer the air-fuel mixture towards desired targets.   If your EEC uses STFTs effectively (i.e. all modular motors) then these are generally more effective as a tuning tool than looking at raw O2 voltages.
      • LTFTs – Long Term Fuel Trims.  These are the long term difference between programmed values and target values.  Think of them as the average of STFTs over a long time.  If your EEC uses LTFTs effectively (i.e. all modular motors) then these are one of the most effective pieces of data provided by the stock computer for tuning fueling.
      • WBO2 – Wideband Oxygen meters can measure a much wider range of rich-lean conditions than standard HEGOs.  Having wideband data is often preferable to HEGO/STFT/LTFT.  In many cases (i.e. 86-95 in my opinion) it is often easier to disable closed loop operation/the O2 sensors completely and tune the car exclusively using a wideband.
      • ISC Integrator (‘integrator’) – this represents the difference between how much air the EEC is using to hold and idle versus how much it is commanded to hold in the tune.  Critical for proper tuning of larger camshafts and larger displacement engines.
      • Boost/MAP/Pressure – Although MAF systems do not differentiate between boost and vacuum, it is often very handy for sanity and safety to have an idea of how much pressure there is in the intake manifold.  For positive displacement blowers (roots, TVS, twin-screw) make sure you take pressure readings AFTER the blower on the lower plenum.
      • Pressure drop across injectors / FPDM duty cycle – most 99-04 cars control fuel pressure electronically.  These values are critical to a properly operating fuel system on these vehicles.

    Recalibration: Modifying Parameters and Values to Achieve a Target

    • First step: decide on target operating parameters for the engine
      • This may seem obvious, but something as simple as “make the most power” or “improve fuel economy” isn’t going to be be enough.
      • Second step: take a general goal like “make the most power” and decide on appropriate engine conditions to achieve that goal.
      • If you read these rules of thumb and say “this isn’t right for my engine” – GREAT.  You already know more than the audience these rules are aimed at.
        • If in doubt, “0.8 is great” – blatant simplicity.  Quoted me to once by someone who did OEM calibrations for Honda for a living.  It is very difficult to break anything due to fueling from running a vehicle at 0.8 lambda (about 11.6:1 AFR Gasoline)
        • 1.0 Lambda represents a stoichiometric mixture – exactly enough oxygen is present in the air to burn all the fuel supplied.  This is normally the best mixture for minimizing emissions.
        • Most vehicles make best power around 0.85 to 0.88 lambda (12.3 – 12.7 AFR Gasoline) – slightly richer than stoich
        • Most vehicles achieve best fuel economy at around 1.05 to 1.1 lambda ( 15.2 to 16.0 AFR gasoline)
        • Most vehicles need more ignition advance as RPM increases
        • Most vehicles need more ignition advance under cruising/low-throttle conditions than WOT
        • Knock is most likely close to peak torque, at high loads/low RPMs or at peak horsepower
    • Next step: Get familiar with the strategy your vehicle uses.  Fueling, timing, idle, open-closed loop and just about everything else vary considerably from one strategy to another.  Being familiar with the strategy your ECM uses will help you figure out which tables to modify to acheive the results you seek.
      • eectuning.org is a good place to learn more.
      • the ‘Education’ section of moates.net is another good place to get information
    • After you figure out where to look: set up what you can based on what you already know
      • Setup Engine Displacement / displacement of one cylinder
      • Setup injector size
      • Setup a reasonable rev limiter based on what you know of bottom end and valvetrain
      • Setup a reasonable (perhaps a little high to start) value for target idle
      • Setup a reasonable base calibration for MAF sensor.  If sensor came with a calibration sheet, this would be great time to use it.
      • Setup a reasonable target air fuel while in open loop
      • Setup a reasonable timing map.  A stock timing map adjusted for mods is always a good place to start.
      • Setup a reasonable pattern from switching from closed loop to open loop.
      • Enable or disable hardware such as O2 sensors, EGR, Purge/Evap, automatic trans
      • If you take your time to create a sane starting point before you turn the key on you will save yourself countless hours of time!
    • Finally: Start your engines (and your datalogger) and make final adjustments
      • Are air fuels not matching what you command in open loop?
        • Three pieces of the fueling puzzle:  MAF transfer, Injector slopes(size), Injector offset (battery compensation – latency)
        • How do you tell what is going on?  STFTs, LTFTs (if O2s are enabled) combined with a wideband.  STFTs/LTFTs are great while O2s are active – i.e. part throttle
        • Leanest at idle, small pulsewidths but perfect at WOT/higher throttle -> increase battery offset
        • Lean – rich – lean patches as you gradually increase throttle -> wrong shape of MAF curve.  systematically tune it
        • Entire range of engine operation uniformly off from commanded values -> either injector slopes (size) or entire MAF transfer function is off.  Let load determine which one to multiply/divide in order to fix things
      • Idle issues?
        • Make sure your MAF transfer table, injector slopes and injector offset are sane before trying to fine tune idle!
        • Follow the integrator – a good place to start is to add the integrator (or subtract if it is negative) from the Neutral Idle Air table (in neutral) or Drive Idle Air table (if in Drive for automatic cars)
      • Performance
        • ALWAYS TUNE FUELING FIRST BEFORE TACKLING TIMING!  You are *much* more likely to break your engine if your mixture is wrong.  As long as your timing is good enough to light the mix, you can tune fueling adequately.
        • Tuning timing without a dyno is hard.  Accelerometers and a dragstrip can provide crude but repeatable feedback.

    Data Analysis and Evaluation

    • Once captured, the operational data can be analyzed and used to guide calibration effort.

    (More to come!)

    (below this line is draft / coming soon as of 2010-11-30)

    Chapter 4:  Software/Hardware Initial Configuration with Tuning Session Start-Up Examples

    • Physical installation of hardware is shown in more detail from Chapter 1 overview.
      • F3
      • Jaybird
      • Quarterhorse
      • F8/destiny and switch
      • Wideband
    • Installation, licensing, initial configuration, and detailed hardware synchronization procedures for each software are explained and examples detailed. Initial basic calibration load-up for different hardware, as well as basic payload creation for datalogging, are explained and illustrated for each.
      • USB Driver
      • BE/EA
      • EEC Editor
      • TunerPro RTv5
      • Flash & Burn
      • F8/Destiny Utility
    1. Data Analysis and Evaluation
      1. Once captured, the operational data can be analyzed and used to guide calibration effort.
      2. Several examples of logged data values and how they relate to calibration parameters are provided.

    Chapter 6:

    Case Studies: Example Modifications, Vehicle Combinations, and Rules of Thumb

    1. Key Issues and Vehicle-Specific Examples
      1. How do many of the popular modifications on these vehicles affect the tuning approach?

    i.      Bigger MAF

    ii.      Bigger injectors

    iii.      Cold plugs

    iv.      Nitrous

    v.      Gears and converter

    vi.      Auto vs Manual

    vii.      Emissions delete / racing modifications

    viii.      Cam, heads

    ix.      Headers/exhaust

    x.      Cold air intake

      1. We look at a walk-through of important considerations and the thought process of tuning several different example combinations, with real-world dyno results.

    i.      A9L/GUFB Fox Body, 1993 N/A 331 stroker, 24# injectors, cam, headers, 5spd.

    ii.      CBAZA, same as above.

    iii.      03/04 Mustang

    iv.      SC A9L

    v.      SC 03/04 Cobra

    vi.      F150 Truck

      1. Achieving an Optimized Result: When is it good enough?

    i.      What are your goals?

    ii.      Do you plan for future modifications?

    iii.      Rules of thumb for AFR and timing, NA vs boost.

    iv.      What is safe vs aggressive?

    >

    >

    >

    > Vehicle Compatibility

    >

    > All year/model Ford 2004 and earlier with J3 port are compatible

    ***with our hardware*** but there may not be software support for particular models.

    > Some vehicle year/model applications are simply not supported in the

    > software because of lack of definition information. It’s important to

    > evaluate the availability of your desired application as ir relates to

    > the software selection process. You may be out of luck (for example,

    > 1995 Festiva or such uncommon target).

    http://support.moates.net/ford-strategies-supported/

    http://support.moates.net/ford-box-code-strategy-cross-reference/

    >

    >

    >

    > Overview of Tuning Process

    >

    > Determine your target vehicle boxcode and strategy

    >

    >                                                                i.

    > Boxcode is typically a 4-digit letter/number code on the EEC computer.

    > This is the calibration code.

    http://support.moates.net/ford-information-we-need-to-help-you/

    >

    >                                                               ii.

    > Strategy is the ‘parent’ definition structure to which a boxcode belongs.

    Each strategy is the set of procedures that are executed on your ECM to run an engine.  Sometimes more than one strategy can successfully run on a given ECM.  Normally we do not make many changes to the procedure part of strategies while tuning vehicles.  Instead, we change tables, functions and constants so that the engine receives what it needs to run well.  Each “box code” represents a configuration of a particular strategy for a particular engine.

    >

    >                                                             iii.

    > For

    instance, the A9L boxcode  belongs to the GUFB strategy.  The A3M boxcode also belongs to the GUFB strategy.  If you compare A9L.bin and A3M.bin the files will be almost identical because they use the same strategy but are configured for different vehicles by Ford.  If you get a definition (also called def) for the GUFB strategy, you will be able to edit both A9L and A3M binaries because they use the same strategy.

    ……….

    >                                                             iii.

    > J3 port MUST be thoroughly cleaned, both sides, before installation!

    ***IMPORTANT***

    ……………….

    > Chapter 5:

    >

    > Suggested Techniques for Effective Calibration of EEC Systems

    >

    >

    >

    >

    >

    > Vehicle Inspection and Preparation

    >

    > CRITICAL part of the tuning process. Start here, really.

    > Several areas of the vehicle should always be analyzed before you

    > begin the effort.

    >

    >                                                                i.

    > Check base timing, adjust as needed.  On older Fords, pull “spout” timing connector either by distributor (86-93) or on passenger fender side (94-95).  Adjust distributor to achieve 10 degrees base timing with spout removed.  Reinstall spout before tuning.

    >

    >                                                               ii.

    > Evaluate TPS voltage, make sure it is in range through motion.

    Vehicles are very sensitive to improper TPS voltage.  TPS being too low or too high can cause the ECM to not enter the correct idle mode.

    TPS should be between 0.95 and 1volt with throttle plate closed.  This can be checked using QH quite nicely.

    >

    >                                                             iii.

    > Look at MAF intake routing, make sure there are no gross vacuum / intake leaks.

    http://support.moates.net/tuning-maf-systems-and-air-leaks/

    See how much or little of that you want to put here.

    >

    >                                                             iv.

    > O2 sensors should be operational, exhaust should be leak-tight at

    > least that far back.

    OEM Ford O2 sensors work a million times better than cheap aftermarket ones.

    Ideally, a wideband sensor is to be installed in addition to the factory O2s rather than instead of one.

    If this is not possible, it is greatly preferable to remove a secondary (Post-catalytic converter) O2 sensor.

    If a primary O2 sensor has the be removed in order to install a wideband, make sure closed loop operation is disabled.

    >

    >                                                              v.

    > Basic maintenance should not be overlooked.

    >

    > 1.       Plugs and wires

    1a. PLUG GAP IS REALLY IMPORTANT

    1b. Appropriate plug type is really important (Copper, Silver (Brisk for 3v)).  Iridium plugs are ok for applications with extremely strong spark boxes or CDI systems.  Avoid platinum plugs like the plague.

    >

    > 2.       Oil and coolant

    >

    > 3.       Fuel filter and fuel age/quality/octane

    >

    > 4.       Clean air filter and MAF

    >

    >                                                             vi.

    > Ensure that fuel pressure is as expected through operating range.

    >

    > Remember, you can’t fix mechanical or electrical issues with reprogramming.

    > Tuning is about more than just flipping chips, so make sure your

    > vehicle is in good shape!

    This really can’t be stressed enough.  Tuning a car that isn’t running right is like putting a bandaid over a gangrenous wound!  The first step to tuning a car properly is to make sure it is mechanically sound!

    >

    >

    >

    ************I’m not sure I would get into datalogging just yet because we haven’t talked about recalibration yet.****************

    > Datalogging: What’s important and what does it mean? What should we be

    > interested in? What to select?

    >

    > RPM

    > MAFV

    > Kg/Hr

    > Spark

    > HEGO1/2

    > TPS

    > ECT,IAT

    > Load

    > WBO2

    >

    ***********************************Snip*********************************************************************************************************

    >

    >

    > Recalibration: Modifying Parameters and Values

    >

    The purpose of recalibrating an ECM is to produce the behavior you desire, and by doing so hopefully improve performance, emissions or other operating characteristics.  Normally, there are two stages to this process.

    First, parameters within the strategy are altered to match physical parameters of the engine.  Engine displacement, injector size are the primary values here.  Also, the MAF transfer function should be altered to match the MAF that is installed on the vehicle.  You can often “rob” a MAF transfer function from another vehicle’s strategy when using the MAF from another vehicle.

    Next, operating parameters are changed in order to achieve the actual running conditions desired for the particular engine.  In many cases, simply adjusting the “configuration” items for the strategy in the first step will make then engine run great but there are almost always small changes that can be made to optimize performance.

    >

    > What are the most common values we will need to modify?

    >

    i.     Displacement – how large the engine is

    ii.      Injector slopes – define how much fuel flows through

    injectors, aka injector size

    iii.      MAF calibration – defines how much air enters the engine as

    a function of MAF voltage.  aka MAF transfer function iv.      Rev limiters – protect the engine from being damaged by over-revving

    v.      Speed limiters – protect the driver from his/her own stupidity

    vi.      EGR delete, PATS delete, secondary O2 delete – turn off items that are not present or not desired.

    >

    > How do we know which values to change, and by how much?

    >

    (repeat / correlate with above)

    First step: calibration data should match actual equipment specification

    example: If you have a 347 stroker with 30# injectors your strategy should be configured to match these physical parameters

    Next step: start your engines, identify problems and goals.  There are hundreds (if not thousands in some cases) of parameters you can change.  Before starting on tuning, it’s good to have an idea of what’s not right, what you’d like to improve and what you can leave alone.  This may sound basic, but maintaining some kind of focus is really important to working effectively.  Examples of things you might want to work on are improving idle, improving wide open throttle performance, decreasing fuel consumption.

    After figuring out what aspects of running the engine you want to work on, it is time to get the data you need to achieve your goals.  By selecting appropriate items for datalogging, the QuarterHorse allows you to view, log and replay the same data that your ECM uses to run your engine.  Instead of blindly guessing which values you need to change in order to get the engine behavior you seek, you can use this process of logging, analyzing logged data and a little math to make appropriate changes.

    Now specific tasks in the tuning process will be examined in detail.

    This will be presented as a mixture of theory and practice.  The next chapter will serve as a guide for how to adapt the programming of your ECM to suit specific modifications (cold air kits, injectors, motor transplants, etc) and will be attempt to be primarily hands-on.

    Routine tuning processes: (these are going to need more explanation, I’m just running out of steam tonight)

    Basic setup – Slopes, injectors, MAFs, sane spark tables

    WOT / Open loop fueling – MAF transfer, inj slopes, stabilized fuel table

    Closed loop fueling – O2 trims, MAF transfer

    Power tuning – Dyno, spark tables

    Idle tuning – idle RPM drive, neutral, Drive idle air, neutral idle air, integrator, gains, etc

    Dashpot – role, tuning, scalars, preposition

    >

    >

    >

    > Chapter 6:

    >

    CASE STUDIES AND HANDS ON PRIMARILY.  Theory / processes in previous chapter

    >

    >

    >

    >

    >

    > Key Issues and Vehicle-Specific Examples

    *MAKE MORE SPECIFIC*  General procedures covered above

    >

    > How do many of the popular modifications on these vehicles affect the

    > tuning approach?

    >

    >                                                                i.

    > Bigger MAF

    >

    >                                                               ii.

    > Bigger injectors

    >

    >                                                             iii.

    > Cold plugs

    >

    >                                                             iv.

    > Nitrous

    >

    >                                                              v.

    > Gears and converter

    >

    >                                                             vi.

    > Auto vs Manual

    >

    >                                                           vii.

    > Emissions delete / racing modifications

    >

    >                                                          viii.

    > Cam, heads

    >

    >                                                             ix.

    > Headers/exhaust

    >

    >                                                              x.

    > Cold air intake

    >

    > We look at a walk-through of important considerations and the thought

    > process of tuning several different example combinations, with

    > real-world dyno results.

    >

    >                                                                i.

    > A9L/GUFB Fox Body, 1993 N/A 331 stroker, 24# injectors, cam, headers, 5spd.

    >

    >                                                               ii.

    > CBAZA, same as above.

    >

    >                                                             iii.

    > 03/04 Mustang

    >

    >                                                             iv.

    > SC A9L

    >

    >                                                              v.

    > SC

    > 03/04 Cobra

    >

    >                                                             vi.

    > F150 Truck

    >

    > Achieving an Optimized Result: When is it good enough?

    >

    >                                                                i.

    > What are your goals?

    >

    >                                                               ii.

    > Do you plan for future modifications?

    >

    >                                                             iii.

    > Rules of thumb for AFR and timing, NA vs boost.

    >

    >                                                             iv.

    > What is safe vs aggressive?

    >

    >

  • Ford Tuning: Injector Scaling
  • One of the most common modifications that require recalibration of the ECM are changing injectors and changing Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensors.

    For the rest of this article, we’re going to assume that you’ve already read the articles explaining basic MAF operation and a model for injectors.  We’re going to discuss how to properly change the tune to compensate for new fuel injectors.

    You should also take a look at the article on MAF Calibration as they often go hand in hand.

    About Injectors on Ford ECMs

    Ford uses the concept of injector slopes, breakpoints and battery voltage latency adjustment to cover the behavior of injectors.   Slopes represent the flow of the injector at high and low pulsewidths.  Breakpoints determine the pulsewidth required to switch from the low slop to the high slope.  Returnless fuel system cars add additional compensation tables related to fuel rail pressure.  When changing injectors, it is best to have a complete set of test data.  If you have good data, the amount of tuning required after inputting full injector data can be extremely minimal – think minutes versus hours with unknown injectors.

    • In many cases, injectors purchased from Ford Racing will include all of this information.
    • If you’re using a larger OEM injector (Cobra, Lightning, etc.) you can generally obtain valid data from the OEM calibration in which the injectors were used.  Some Ford vehicles which use desirable injectors:
      • 2014 GT500 52# Bosch EV14 (sold by Ford Racing who publish data)
      • 08 GT500 SXH1 48# Bosch EV14 (sold by Ford Racing who publish data)
      • 03 Harley Truck data i.e. EKO2 processor code is recommended by Decipha for 42# “green tops” (formerly sold by Ford racing.  warning: currently heavily counterfeited)
      • 03 Cobra AMZ2 for 39# “blue body” (warning: unusual spray pattern may cause issues with 2V / pushrod cylinder heads)
      • 05-10 Mustang GT CDC3 24# (sold by Ford Racing who publish data)
      • 97/98 Cobra AOL1 or AOL3 24#
      • 94-95 Cobra 24# injector data is NOT recommended.  Look at it sometime and see if you can figure out why.
    • If you don’t have complete test data, you can make do.  You will need a wideband.  Recommended procedure:
      1. The rest of this procedure assumes you have a SOMEWHAT sane MAF transfer function.  If your MAF transfer is jacked, you may need to adjust, retune MAF then readjust a few times to get things properly aligned.
      2. Start with the data of the injector closest in size and design to the one you are using (slopes, inj latency, etc.).  If you can’t get any good data on other injectors, then your stock ones will do.  We will call this the “old” injector.
      3. Figure out what the injectors you are installing are rated for (i.e. 24#).  Remember the size of you old injectors (i.e. 19#).  Divide your NEW rated flow by your OLD rated flow.  Make sure your injectors are rated at the same pressure.  24/19 = 1.26 in this case
      4. Multiply both the LOW SLOPE and HIGH SLOPE by the value from above, in this case 1.26.
      5. Set your target AFRs / Open loop targets to a a UNIFORM value.  (i.e. 12.5 for a NA car)
      6. Do a WOT pass on the car.  Observe AFR.  Adjust BOTH high and low slope until actual AFRs resemble the target AFRs you have set up in your tune.
      7. Repeat #6 until the car is as close as possible to what you are commanding.
      8. Let the car idle.  Turn off closed loop if necessary.  Observe AFRs.   Adjust latency (battery voltage table) so that observed AFR is close to commanded AFR.
      9. Drive the car at low – light throttle.  Hopefully, Observed AFRs will be close to commanded AFRs.  If so, skip ahead to #11
      10. If observed AFRs differ significantly from targeted at part throttle, determine how badly they are off.  If they’re really far off, re-adjust in order to get things as close as you can.  After this, make SELECTIVE adjustments to the MAF transfer function at idle in order to achieve targets at idle while maintaining proper operation at light throttle.
      11. Once you have a preliminary set of slopes, latency values it is time to tune battery voltage tables.  First, observe battery voltage and AFR while IDLING.  At idle, the injectors are open the smallest amount of time so changes from battery voltage have the largest effect.
      12. Next turn on headlights, blower motors, brake lights, EVERYTHING you possibly can to put an electrical load on the motor.  Observe changes in battery voltage and AFR.  Make adjustments to the injector battery table in order to compensate for fluctuations.  I.e. if the car goes lean when you turn on the headlights, INCREASE the latency value at the voltage that the ECM reports with the lights on.
      13. Once you have the engine operating in a more consistent AFR range under electrical loan, rev the motor up and make sure that you don’t go too rich when battery voltage increases as a sanity check.
      14. At this point, you’ve probably done a more thorough injector calibration than most tuners will.
  • Ford Tuning: Load with failed MAF table(s)
  • Prerequisites

    Before you read this, make sure you have read Theory: Alpha-N, Theory: Mass Air Flow and the FordOverview.  Although not essential, it wouldn’t hurt to have at least read about Speed-Density operation as well.  This page will assume you have read and understood these pages.  This is a somewhat complicated topic and will require you to put several pieces together so don’t feel bad if you have to read this a couple times.

    About the table and why it is critical

    The “Load with failed MAF” (“LWFM” from here forward) table(s) are found in almost all MAF Ford Strategies.  Most strategies that make use of IMRCs (Intake Manifold Runner Control – valves that restrict air entering the engine in order to increase tumble and velocity) have two LWFM tables instead of one and  switch from one LWFM table to the other as the IMRCs open and close.  The main purpose of the LWFM table is to estimate the amount of air going into the engine without using the MAF sensor or a MAP sensor (if present) to provide the ECM with an “emergency” fallback method of running the engine in the event the MAF sensor fails.

    The LWFM table is also important for normal operation of the motor because Load from the MAF (this is “Load” – the Ford-specific calculated cylinder filling value calculated from the MAF sensor, RPM and engine displacement) is “sanity checked” against the LWFM table to determine if the MAF is providing reliable information.  If there is too large of a difference between calculated Load and the LWFM table, the ECM may ignore the MAF even if it is providing valid information! This happens most commonly in forced induction situations (where load is greatly increased compared to a naturally aspirated car) but can also occur in cars with aggressive camshafts.  If you are making changes to a MAF transfer function and you are not seeing any changes in engine operation, double check your LWFM table!  Further, most strategies use “Anticipation logic” to predict airflow.  This prediction logic is based off…  Surprise… The LWFM table!  Having a sane LWFM table is neccesary for the aircharge anticipation logic to work.  You can disable this but it’s generally not necessary if you tune the LWFM table properly.

    LWFM table is a classic example of an Alpha-N control strategy – it’s purpose is to provide a very crude estimation of airflow entering the engine when the MAF signal is absent or the ECM thinks it is unreliable.   The LWFM table uses only two inputs – throttle position (aka “TP”) and RPM to determine Load.  Here is a picture of a typical LWFM table: (screenshot from Binary Editor / GUFB strategy)

    Here you can see the X axis is RPM and the Y axis is RELATIVE Throttle Position volts.  Each cell represents the Load that will be used to calculate fueling and timing when the ECM thinks the MAF is bad.  For example, idling with the throttle closed (0 volts relative)  around 700 RPM the ECM will assume a Load of .1602 and make appropriate fueling and timing changes.

    The importance of the LWFM table varies considerably from strategy to strategy.  A rule of thumb is that the newer of an ECM you are using the more picky it will be able the LWFM table.  Fox Body and most early EECV (pre-99) are fairly tolerant of inappropriate LWFM tables where 99+ ECMs are generally much, much, much more picky.

    Tuning the LWFM Table

    Tuning the LWFM table is pretty simple:

    First, set the Aircharge WOT multiplier, Anticipation logic scalars, etc. to make the ECM as tolerant of a bad failed MAF table as possible

    Second, GUESS!   Yes, guess.  Enter values that you think are sane for the setup, starting with the stock LWFM table as a guideline.  A few examples:

    • If you put in aggressive cams, decrease the LWFM table at low RPMs and throttle angles while increasing it at higher RPMs and throttle angles.
    • If adding a positive displacement supercharger (roots, twin screw) multiply the whole LWFM table by approximately the highest pressure ratio you will see.
    • If you add a centrifugal blower, multiply a column of the LWFM table by the pressure ratio you achieve at a given RPM

    Third, drive around and log throttle position (TP Relative), RPM, Load.  Compare the Load values you log with the LWFM table.  Start changing entries in the table so they get closer to the load you really see at given TP and RPM conditions.

    Note: Turbo cars present a very big challenge to this strategy due to the amount load can vary with throttle position due to spool time.  This is a very tricky case and often the only solution is to try and maximize allowed error before the LWFM table becomes active and also disable Aircharge Anticipation and other functions dependent on the LWFM table.


  • Ford: Using our gear with other vendors’ products
  • Fairly regularly we get asked something along the lines of, “I had my car tuned by Joe Bob at Fast Bob’s Racing and he used a ___________ (not ours) chip.  I want to make a few changes to the tune myself.  What do I need to do it?”

    Here is the answer:

    • We do NOT officially support the use of our products with other vendors’ chips AT ALL.
    • We do NOT design our products to work with other vendors’ products.
    • Chips from other vendors often work (to some extent) with our products because every chip needs to work on the same ECMs, which means they need to do many of the same things, electrically speaking.
    • As a rule of thumb, you will probably be able to use our programmers to *READ* most chips from other vendors.  There are some cases when this does not work.
    • As a rule of thumb, you will *NOT* be able to use our programmers to PROGRAM chips from other vendors.  Most of the time, this does not work.
    • Chips can be deliberately designed to be difficult to communicate with (known problem chips: Diablosport, TS, others?) so there will be cases where you just can’t use them with our tools.
    • If you want to be certain that you can read, program or erase a chip from another vendor, don’t use our tools.  Use the tools provided by that vendor.
    • If you want to be certain that you will be able to program a chip with one of our programmers, use one of our chips.
    • Bottom line: our programmers are designed and tested to work with our chips.  If you can use them with chips from other vendors, it is purely accidental and we do not support it or encourage their use in this way.
    • Do not come crying to us if it doesn’t work.  Our response is going to be “buy one of our chips that our programmer was designed to work with.”
  • G1/GP1 or G4
  • Memory Adapter Installation Instructions: the Moates.Net 'G1' Adapter
    (edited from Allan Reinke's review on www.iroczone.com)
    (works on all your TPI setups, the 1992-93 LT1, and some late-model TBI setups)
    (To program the chips use a programmer like the BURN1 flash chip programmer)

    You want to dip into programming your own chips. One of the first things you should consider is, how to use the chip in your ECM. You can try to remove the existing chip and solder in a socket in your memcal, but this is not only difficult, you may not like to do anything to your original memcal for the risk of ruining it. Craig Moates has designed an adapter, that lets you use your existing memcal and provides a means to use your own chip. This device is relatively cheap ($35) and can be considered a must buy if you are interested in programming your own chips for your ride.

    See notes about the 'GP1 Package' at the bottom of the page.

    What does this adapter do? Well, in case you don't know, our ECMs (1986 to 1993 and some 94-95 TBI stuff) utilize a memory calibration "memcal" unit. This unit consists of the PROM (calibration code) and resistor packs (for limp mode, cold starts, etc.). The resistor packs consist of two chips. One a 16-pin and the other a 14-pin. These are custom laser etched type resistor packs making them extremely difficult to duplicate. In other words, you need these resistor packs, you cannot copy them (as of right now anyway) and your car will have a hard time starting without them. Some Memcals have a more compex 'non-EPROM' half which contains knock circuitry, and the original (or one very similar) Memcal needs to be used in conjunction with the adapter.

    What the adapter does is allow you to plug in your resistor packs so your ECM will still use them, and at the same time, "bypass" your existing PROM chip so you can install your own.

    First things first. You need to access your ECM. This is easily done as it is located behind the dashboard, on the passenger's side of the car. If you look underneath the dash on the passenger's side, you will see a wiring harness plugged into a silver box. This box is held in by two hex screws. First, carefully unplug the two connectors to the ECM (otherwise, you won't be able to gain full access to the ECM as the wires will keep you from pulling the ECM all of the way out.) Each connector has a "latch" where you just push in the latch and wiggle out each connector. Take your time, they don't just fall out.

    In some other applications, it is located under the passenger's seat area, in behind the dash, by the kickpanel, or under the hood usually up by the firewall.

    Next, get a hex screwdriver or other means of removing the two screws holding the ECM in place. Once these are removed, the ECM falls right out (be certain to catch it!).

    Now, with the ECM removed, you will need to use the screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the access plate on. Most of the time, the access plate will be stuck on the ECM. Use a small screwdriver and carefully pry around the access panel until it pops off.

    Once the access panel is off, there sits your memcal. If your Memcal looks like this, then the G1 adapter should work for you. If not, then look at some of the other adapters such as the G2 and see if that matches up. Using your fingers, press the latches on both sides, away from the memcal. Doing this will "pop" the memcal up. Once the latches are fully out, the memcal should come right out.

    The memcal will not usualy fit in the ECM (with the adapter) with it's cover on. On some applications it will, such as some of the 1227730 and 1227749 units. So we will most likely need to remove the blue cover on the memcal so that it will fit back in there. Very CAREFULLY, remove the cover with a small screwdriver, prying the clips. Again, be careful, clips will break off. You only need to do the one side just enough to pop the side up and the other side will come right off.

    In this installation, we are installing a "fixed" code or more less "permanent" code. Meaning, we tested it and it's what we want. We don't plan on reprogramming the chip any further or installing different chips. The adapter has a socket installed for your chip. It is low profile, meaning that with the chip installed, we are able to install the access panel back on the ECM. You can elect to use a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket, but you will not be able to install the access cover back on. The $35 price tag doesn't includes a ZIF socket, but you can get one for a couple extra bucks. The ZIF is there to make chip swaps easier, but it is not a necessity. A ZIF socket is good if you are testing code and need to reprogram the chip or using different chips during your testing. It allows you to, very easily, remove and replace the chips. If you have a ZIF socket that you want to use, instead of installing the PROM chip, insert the ZIF socket into the socket on the adapter. Then you may place your chip in the ZIF socket. The ONLY problem with this, again, is that you will not be able to install the access panel back on, but if you are testing and swapping chips, you won't want the door on anyway. We recommend that if you are finished with your code and want it permanent, to carefully remove the ZIF socket and place your chip in the adapter socket so you can reinstall the access panel.

    Anyway, enough of that. Install the chip with the U indention out. (Pin 1 faces left as in the picture) . If you are using a Flash chip such as the 29C256, then the chip will also have an arrow by Pin-1. This should also go out toward the edge of the adapter. Be sure to line up all of the pins on the chip and gently press it into the socket. Once you are comfortable with the feel, you will need to exert a little force to fully insert the chip. This can be tricky. Bent and broken pins can result if you are not 100% certain that all of the pins of the chip are lined up correctly.

    Now install your memcal onto the adapter. Simply line up the right side of the memcal to the right side of the pins on the adapter. Press firmly and whala! In terms of original Memcal orientation on the adapter, make sure that the original 'EPROM' half is hanging off and that the 'limp-home' half is in contact with the angle header on the edge of the adapter.

     

     Place the adapter, memcal first, face down in the access panel. Then curve the adapter, memcal first toward the empty space in the ECM (bottom, but in the picture it's up as the ECM is facing upside-down).

    Once the adapter is in place, line up each side to each latch. See the pictures. Make sure it's lined up before pushing down! You don't want any bent pins in your ECM!

    You have to ensure that when placing the adapter in the ECM socket, that when you unlatch it, it'll pop right up. It needs to be perfect centered or you can bend pins in the ECM - not good. Once you are comfortable with the placement, press down on the adapter until the outer latches "click" and are in the "installed" position (up.)

    Reinstall the access panel (only if you are NOT installing the ZIF socket or if you are using a low-profile ZIF like the S4) and reinstall the ECM.
    If you are using the ZIF socket for testing purposes, you'll be happy to know that the access panel faces towards the front of the car, away from the dashboard. It may be a little neck tiring, but you will be able to replace chips while the ECM is installed.

     

    Notes about the GP1 package:

    The GP1 package is simply a G1 adapter along with an S2 ZIF socket and two C2 chips (27SF512). Installation instructions are the same, and the ZIF can be removed by gently prying it loose if you want to put your ECM cover back on when you're done tuning. The 27SF512 chips should be applicable in any car which normally takes a 27C128, 27C256, or 27C512 chip. This includes pretty much all the cars which will accept the adapter and memcal form factor described above.

     

    Enjoy!

     

  • G1 Support Page
  • G1 Chip adapter picture

    G1 Chip adapter picture

    Overview

    The G1 is an adapter that allows a chip or emulator to be plugged into OBD1 memcal based GM PCMs.

    The GP1 kit is a G1 chip adapter and two 27SF512 flash chips packaged together at a lower price.

    Compatibility

    The G1 is compatible with the following vehicles:

    • 1986-1993 TPI & LT1
    • 94-95 TBI trucks

    The G1 is compatible with the following chips:

    • SST 27SF512
    • 27C128/256/512 based eeproms

    Details

    Our revolutionary G1 adapter allows you to customize your ecu or pcm by bypassing your factory tuning, allowing you to insert your own custom programmed chip without the hassle of tearing apart your stock memcal. This can be useful if you plan on returning your car back to stock, or need to use your stock memcal as a template for a newly modified ecu.

    (much of the content on the rest of this page is edited from Allan Reinke’s review on www.iroczone.com – thankyou very much)

    So what exactly does this adapter do?  In case you don’t know, GM ECMs (1986 to 1993 TPI and some 94-95 TBI stuff) utilize a memory calibration “memcal” unit. This unit consists of the PROM (calibration code) and resistor packs (for limp mode, cold starts, etc.). The resistor packs consist of two chips. One a 16-pin and the other a 14-pin. These are custom laser etched type resistor packs making them extremely difficult to duplicate. In other words, you need these resistor packs, you cannot copy them (as of right now anyway) and your car will have a hard time starting without them. Some Memcals have a more compex ‘non-EPROM’ half which contains knock circuitry, and the original (or one very similar) Memcal needs to be used in conjunction with the adapter.

    What the adapter does is allow you to plug in your resistor packs so your ECM will still use them, and at the same time, “bypass” your existing PROM chip so you can install your own.  By doing so, you can reprogram your ECM with no modifications to your factory memcal AND no soldering is required! The process of reprogramming your ECM is greatly simplified.  You no longer need to worry about destroying increasingly hard to find memcals with a bad soldering job when you use a G1 adapter!

    Install Instructions

    First things first. You need to access your ECM. This is easily done as it is located behind the dashboard, on the passenger’s side of the car. (In some other applications, it is located under the passenger’s seat area, in behind the dash, by the kickpanel, or under the hood usually up by the firewall.) If you look underneath the dash on the passenger’s side, you will see a wiring harness plugged into a silver box. This box is held in by two hex screws. First, carefully unplug the two connectors to the ECM (otherwise, you won’t be able to gain full access to the ECM as the wires will keep you from pulling the ECM all of the way out.) Each connector has a “latch” where you just push in the latch and wiggle out each connector. Take your time, they don’t just fall out.

    Next, get a hex screwdriver or other means of removing the two screws holding the ECM in place. Once these are removed, the ECM falls right out (be certain to catch it!).

    GM TPI ECM

    GM TPI ECM

    Now, with the ECM removed, you will need to use the screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the access plate on. Most of the time, the access plate will be stuck on the ECM. Use a small screwdriver and carefully pry around the access panel until it pops off.

    TPI ECM - Cover removed

    TPI ECM – Cover removed

    Once the access panel is off, there sits your memcal. If your Memcal looks like this, then the G1 adapter should work for you. If not, then look at some of the other adapters such as the G2 and see if that matches up. Using your fingers, press the latches on both sides, away from the memcal. Doing this will “pop” the memcal up.

    TPI ECM - latches on memcal

    TPI ECM – latches on memcal

    Once the latches are fully out, the memcal should come right out.

    TPI memcal - removed

    TPI memcal – removed

    The memcal will not usualy fit in the ECM (with the adapter) with it’s cover on. On some applications it will, such as some of the 1227730 and 1227749 units. So we will most likely need to remove the blue cover on the memcal so that it will fit back in there. Very CAREFULLY, remove the cover with a small screwdriver, prying the clips. Again, be careful, clips will break off.

    pry GENTLY to remove memcal cover

    pry GENTLY to remove memcal cover

    You only need to do the one side just enough to pop the side up and the other side will come right off.

    naked memcal :)

    naked memcal :)

    In this example, we are using a EPROM chip installed directly into the G1 chip adapter. This is a good “final” install after you have a program that you know works the way you want but it is not very easy to change the program in the chip. The advantage of this is that you are much more likely to be able to put the cover back on the ECM with just a chip installed. (i.e. no ZIF socket or emulator cable)  Install the chip with the U indention out. (Pin 1 faces left as in the picture) . If you are using a Flash chip such as the 29C256, then the chip will also have an arrow by Pin-1. This should also go out toward the edge of the adapter. Be sure to line up all of the pins on the chip and gently press it into the socket. Once you are comfortable with the feel, you will need to exert a little force to fully insert the chip. This can be tricky. Bent and broken pins can result if you are not 100% certain that all of the pins of the chip are lined up correctly.

    EPROM installed in G1 adapter

    However if you are just getting started tuning your car, you may want to use a ZIF socket (available from Moates.net for a small fee) or install the emulation cable from an Ostrich 2.0 or APU1 instead. You probably won’t be able to close the lid on your ECM, but it will be a lot easier for you to make changes to the program in the ECM.

    After you have either a chip or emulation cable insterted in the G1 adapter, install your memcal onto the adapter. Simply line up the right side of the memcal to the right side of the pins on the adapter.

    G1 adapter meets memcal

    G1 adapter meets memcal

    Press firmly and it should easily slide into place! In terms of original Memcal orientation on the adapter, make sure that the original ‘EPROM’ half is hanging off and that the ‘limp-home’ half is in contact with the angle header on the edge of the adapter.  It should look something like this:

    G1 adapter with chip and memcal attached

    G1 adapter with chip and memcal attached

    Next, the G1 and memcal combination needs to be re-inserted into the ECM.  Place the adapter, memcal first, face down in the access panel. Then curve the adapter, memcal first toward the empty space in the ECM (bottom, but in the picture it’s up as the ECM is facing upside-down).


    Once the adapter is in place, line up each side to each latch. See the pictures. Make sure it’s lined up before pushing down! You don’t want any bent pins in your ECM!

    check one side

    check one side

    check other side

    check other side

    You have to ensure that the adapter is placed correctly in the ECM socket so that when you unlatch it, it’ll pop right up. It needs to be perfectly centered or you can bend pins in the ECM – not good. Once you are comfortable with the placement, press down on the adapter in the center of the two latches until the outer latches “click” and are in the “installed” position (up.)  Give yourself a pat on the back – you’ve completed the physical installation of the G1 chip adapter!

    Reinstall the access panel (only if you are NOT installing the ZIF socket or if you are using a low-profile ZIF like the S4!!!) and reinstall the ECM in the car by following the steps you took to remove it in reverse. If you are using the ZIF socket for testing purposes, you’ll be happy to know that the access panel faces towards the front of the car, away from the dashboard. It may be a little neck tiring, but you will be able to replace chips while the ECM is installed.


  • G2
  •  

    G2 TBI-Style 2732-to-29C256 Adapter Installation Instructions:

    Here is a pictorial depiction of a G2 installation in a TBI-style ECM.
    It shows the following:

    1) Disassembly and removal of stock socket body.
    - Take note of the 'stock' 2732A chip orientation. Your 2732A chip will probably be in a little plastic holder.
    - Try and overcome the challenge presented by the disparity between that fact and this pictorial guide.
    - Take apart the ECM case, loosen screws that hold 'daughterboard', and get everything free so you can get to the underside.
    - Be careful with ribbon cables which are often glued to the ECM housing areas.
    - Measure spacing between row of chip socket pins, and make sure you order the correct adapter part (0.6 or 0.45").
    - Using small screwdriver, gently pry plastic off of pins. It should come free, leaving pins to be desoldered individually pretty easily. This may not work as well with 0.45" spacing sockets, and you might have to desolder the whole socket at the same time or mutilate it a little bit to get it out.

    2) Desoldering of stock socket pins, removal of solder from holes using solder sucker.
    - Apply heat and remove each individual pin (assuming you were successful with step (1).
    - Use solder sucker to open up each hole for acceptance of the 'new' socket.

    3) Soldering in place of a 24-pin collet-pin DIP socket. (For 0.45" spacing, 12-pin SIPs are used instead).
    - Just like it says. If you want a very low profile install, skip this step and go to step (4), except solder it in place instead of pressing it in.

    4) Placement of G2 adapter along with optional ZIF and associated chip.
    - Just like it says.

    5) View of relative clearance and reassembly.
    - Check and make sure it's not going to hit anything when installed back in the car. If you have clearance issues, you might want to consider the solder-in option mentioned in (3-4).

    Note that the height can be reduced by not using the ZIF socket, and can be further reduced by soldering the adapter directly in as mentioned (bypassing the DIP or SIP socket install).

    These pictures should give you the information you need with respect to procedures, relative socket / adapter / chip orientation, etc.
    However, if after viewing this you still have questions, just let me know at my email address on the main page and I'll do my best to field them.

    Have fun!

     

     

  • G2 Adapter Installation
  • G2 TBI-Style 2732-to-29C256 Adapter Installation Instructions:Here is a pictorial depiction of a G2 installation in a TBI-style ECM.
    It shows the following:

     

    1) Disassembly and removal of stock socket body.
    – Take note of the ‘stock’ 2732A chip orientation. Your 2732A chip will probably be in a little plastic holder.
    – Try and overcome the challenge presented by the disparity between that fact and this pictorial guide.
    – Take apart the ECM case, loosen screws that hold ‘daughterboard’, and get everything free so you can get to the underside.
    – Be careful with ribbon cables which are often glued to the ECM housing areas.
     Measure spacing between row of chip socket pins, and make sure you order the correct adapter part (0.6 or 0.45″).
    – Using small screwdriver, gently pry plastic off of pins. It should come free, leaving pins to be desoldered individually pretty easily. This may not work as well with 0.45″ spacing sockets, and you might have to desolder the whole socket at the same time or mutilate it a little bit to get it out.

    2) Desoldering of stock socket pins, removal of solder from holes using solder sucker.
    – Apply heat and remove each individual pin (assuming you were successful with step (1).
    – Use solder sucker to open up each hole for acceptance of the ‘new’ socket.

    3) Soldering in place of a 24-pin collet-pin DIP socket. (For 0.45″ spacing, 12-pin SIPs are used instead).
    – Just like it says. If you want a very low profile install, skip this step and go to step (4), except solder it in place instead of pressing it in.

    4) Placement of G2 adapter along with optional ZIF and associated chip.
    – Just like it says.

    5) View of relative clearance and reassembly.
    – Check and make sure it’s not going to hit anything when installed back in the car. If you have clearance issues, you might want to consider the solder-in option mentioned in (3-4).

    Note that the height can be reduced by not using the ZIF socket, and can be further reduced by soldering the adapter directly in as mentioned (bypassing the DIP or SIP socket install).

    These pictures should give you the information you need with respect to procedures, relative socket / adapter / chip orientation, etc.
    However, if after viewing this you still have questions, just let me know at my email address on the main page and I’ll do my best to field them.

    Have fun!

  • G3/GP3
  • Moates.Net G3 Switching Adapter Installation Instructions

    The 'G3' Switching Adapter
    (also: Using the 'EX' with the G3)

    For placing several different binaries on a single chip for GM applications, the G3 adapter is the hot ticket. By 'stacking' the binaries on a large-sized memory, and using the included switching ability, you can swap between different programs on-the-fly while the car is running. You could have 'Valet', 'Economy', 'Nitrous', or whatever else you want to put together.

    First a little background. A memory chip is accessed by changing the state of various connections or pins. Some of the pins are called address lines. They tell the chip which data to present. There are low address lines (A0 through A14) and high address lines (A15 through A18). The larger chips like the AM29F040 have A0-A18, or 19 address lines. What the G3 adapter does is take 'manual' control of the address lines A15-A18. If you study binary stuff, you'll know that this will give you 16 different memory 'banks' which can be selected.

    On the G3 are several components, including one thermofuse (looks like a capacitor) to protect against shorts when using the 'EX' module, four capacitors which help dampen RFI pickup from the EX cable, two jumpers to set the operating modes (see below), and a rotary DIP switch to select which bank of memory is to be accessed.

    Installation instructions for the G3 adapter are very similar to those for the 'G1' adapter, so see the section under 'G1' instructions for guidance in this regard.

    Think of the G3 as an old-style channel selector on a TV. You just turn the knob, and the car's ECM will see a different channel or 'bank' of memory. Put the switch to position zero, and all the 'high' address lines will be set to 5v. Thus, the actual memory location that will be accessed on a 29F040 will be 78000-7FFFF. If the switch is set to position 'F', then all the high address lines will be set to GND, or 'low'. In this case, the reference memory will be 00000-07FFF. You can see how this lets you put up to 16 programs on a single chip and select between them. The switch positions are numbered 0-F, which is just hexadecimal for zero through 16.

    There are several different hardware configurations which are possible with the G3. This increases flexibility along with the confusion factor. Let's look at these combinations individually:

    1) Putting a 29F040 chip in the G3, and operating with an ECM that originally takes a 27C128 (16k bin) or 27C256 (32k bin). This gives you 16 bins.
    2) Putting a single 29C256 or 27SF512 chip in the G3, operating in 'passthrough' mode with no switching.
    3) Putting a 29F040 chip in the G3, and operating with an ECM that originally takes a 27C512 (64k bin). This gives you 8 bins.
    4) Putting a 27SF512 chip in the G3, and operating with an ECM that originally takes a 27C256 or 27C128. This gives you 2 bins.

    The most typical cases are (1) and (2), so we'll talk about them first.

    For operating instructions on the 'EX' module, see the bottom of this page.

    Case 1:
    Originally a 27C128 or 27C256, use a 29F040 chip to switch between 16 programs.

    First thing you will want to do is 'assemble' your big 512k binary from a group of smaller 'stock-size' binaries that you create or collect. The screenshot shows the configuration screen in 'TunerPro' under the BIN stacker function whereby the proper settings have been selected.

    Notice how the bin size here is 16k (originay a 27C128) and the chip size is 512k (for a 29F040). The switch size for the Case-1 hardware configuration is 32k. This is going to create a 512k fie that you can then burn directly to a 29F040 chip without any offsets. Also note that TunerPro does the BIN order reversing for you, so all you need to worry about is which switch position is associated with which BIN.

    The jumper positions for this Case-1 are such that both jumpers should be placed in the 'down' position as shown in the picture. This will allow full access to a 29F040 chip's memory banks via the switching with bank sizes up to 32k. Make sure the notch on the chip is facing to the left as shown.

     

    Case 2:
    Originally a 27C128, 27C256, or 27C512 chip, use a 29C256 or 27SF512 chip as a single-program pass-through application.

    If you want to use the G3 as just a straight adapter and not a switcher, this can be done very easily. Just program the chip as you normally would for a single-program application and put it in the adapter.

    Only trick is to make sure that you set the jumpers to the 'up' or 29C256 position. This will allow the G3 to act just like a 'G1' adapter, passing the signal directly through and bypassing the switching functionality. Make sure the chip is moved over to the right, with the notch facing left.

     

    Case 3:
    Originally a 27C512 chip, use a 29F040 chip to switch between 8 programs.

    Now we're getting to some more 'flexible' appication of the G3. For this case, the jumpers should be set as shown, with J1 in the 'down' or 29F040 position and J2 (right) in the 'up' position. You still stack your BINs using the TunerPro Bin Stacker, but the settings should be such that your Bin Size=64k, Chip Size=512k, and Switch Size=64k.

    When switching in this mode, there will be a little difference. In this mode, position 0-1 are the same and 2-3 are the same and so on. So, in terms of which BIN you will be accessing, you'll be seeing BIN0 in positions 0-1, BIN1=2-3, etc through BIN7=E-F. This gives you 8 binaries you can put on the chip and select from, with a switch occurring every 'other' switch position.

     

    Case 4:
    Originally a 27C128 or 27C256 chip, use a 27SF512 chip to switch between 2 programs.

    OK, so you don't want to run 16 different binaries? Just two? Here's an option for you. Set up your BIN in TunerPro again, with the Bin Size=16 or 32k, chip size=64k, and switch size=32k. Set the jumpers with J1 in the 'up' position and the J2 in the 'down' position. This will allow the A15 line to get switched every other switch position.

    When operating in this mode, the first bin will be accessed at switch positions 0,2,4,6,8,A,C,E and the second BIN will be accessed in the other positions. This gives some switching flexibility without the confusion of millions of binary files.

    That's about it in terms of G3 operation. Again, the installation is pretty much the same as for the G1 so see that section for instructions in that regard.

     

    Using the 'EX' module:

    The function of the 'EX' module is that of a remote BIN switching device and display indicator. When used with the G3, the 'local' G3 rotary switch should be placed in the '0' zero position!

    If you want to have a 'AntiTheft' or 'Valet' mode, you should put that binary in position zero, so you can disconnect the EX and carry it with you. It can be unplugged from the ribbon cable at any time. Don't worry about plugging it in backwards. It won't short out, it just won't work right and won't light up. If it lights up with the car on, you've got it right.

    The EX can be taken apart with a single screw on the back. Make sure you pop the rotary knob off gently, and it should come apart.

    There's a little jumper inside to select whether you're switching between 8 or 16 binaries. This is sonething you'll want to set up if you're switching between 8 banks of 64k instead of the normal 16 banks of 16 or 32k. It comes shipped in the 16 position setting.

    That's all there is to it!
    Confused? Me too.

  • G3/GP3 Configuration and Use
  • The ‘G3’ Switching Adapter

    (also: Using the ‘EX’ with the G3)

    Note: This product was updated in 2015.  The original documentation (which still applies) follows with a discussion of differences between the original and current hardware.

    For placing several different binaries on a single chip for GM applications, the G3 adapter is the hot ticket. By ‘stacking’ the binaries on a large-sized memory, and using the included switching ability, you can swap between different programs on-the-fly while the car is running. You could have ‘Valet’, ‘Economy’, ‘Nitrous’, or whatever else you want to put together.

    First a little background. A memory chip is accessed by changing the state of various connections or pins. Some of the pins are called address lines. They tell the chip which data to present. There are low address lines (A0 through A14) and high address lines (A15 through A18). The larger chips like the AM29F040 have A0-A18, or 19 address lines. What the G3 adapter does is take ‘manual’ control of the address lines A15-A18. If you study binary stuff, you’ll know that this will give you 16 different memory ‘banks’ which can be selected.

    On the G3 are several components, including one thermofuse (looks like a capacitor) to protect against shorts when using the ‘EX’ module, four capacitors which help dampen RFI pickup from the EX cable, two jumpers to set the operating modes (see below), and a rotary DIP switch to select which bank of memory is to be accessed.

    Installation instructions for the G3 adapter are very similar to those for the ‘G1’ adapter, so see the section under ‘G1’ instructions for guidance in this regard.

    Think of the G3 as an old-style channel selector on a TV. You just turn the knob, and the car’s ECM will see a different channel or ‘bank’ of memory. Put the switch to position zero, and all the ‘high’ address lines will be set to 5v. Thus, the actual memory location that will be accessed on a 29F040 will be 78000-7FFFF. If the switch is set to position ‘F’, then all the high address lines will be set to GND, or ‘low’. In this case, the reference memory will be 00000-07FFF. You can see how this lets you put up to 16 programs on a single chip and select between them. The switch positions are numbered 0-F, which is just hexadecimal for zero through 16.

    There are several different hardware configurations which are possible with the G3. This increases flexibility along with the confusion factor. Let’s look at these combinations individually:

    1) Putting a 29F040 chip in the G3, and operating with an ECM that originally takes a 27C128 (16k bin) or 27C256 (32k bin). This gives you 16 bins.
    2) Putting a single 29C256 or 27SF512 chip in the G3, operating in ‘passthrough’ mode with no switching.
    3) Putting a 29F040 chip in the G3, and operating with an ECM that originally takes a 27C512 (64k bin). This gives you 8 bins.
    4) Putting a 27SF512 chip in the G3, and operating with an ECM that originally takes a 27C256 or 27C128. This gives you 2 bins.

    The most typical cases are (1) and (2), so we’ll talk about them first.

    For operating instructions on the ‘EX’ module, see the bottom of this page.

    Case 1: Originally a 27C128 or 27C256, use a 29F040 chip to switch between 16 programs.

    First thing you will want to do is ‘assemble’ your big 512k binary from a group of smaller ‘stock-size’ binaries that you create or collect. The screenshot shows the configuration screen in ‘TunerPro’ under the BIN stacker function whereby the proper settings have been selected.

    Notice how the bin size here is 16k (originay a 27C128) and the chip size is 512k (for a 29F040). The switch size for the Case-1 hardware configuration is 32k. This is going to create a 512k fie that you can then burn directly to a 29F040 chip without any offsets. Also note that TunerPro does the BIN order reversing for you, so all you need to worry about is which switch position is associated with which BIN.

    The jumper positions for this Case-1 are such that both jumpers should be placed in the ‘down’ position as shown in the picture. This will allow full access to a 29F040 chip’s memory banks via the switching with bank sizes up to 32k. Make sure the notch on the chip is facing to the left as shown.

    Case 2: Originally a 27C128, 27C256, or 27C512 chip, use a 29C256 or 27SF512 chip as a single-program pass-through application.

    If you want to use the G3 as just a straight adapter and not a switcher, this can be done very easily. Just program the chip as you normally would for a single-program application and put it in the adapter.

    Only trick is to make sure that you set the jumpers to the ‘up’ or 29C256 position. This will allow the G3 to act just like a ‘G1’ adapter, passing the signal directly through and bypassing the switching functionality. Make sure the chip is moved over to the right, with the notch facing left.

    Case 3: Originally a 27C512 chip, use a 29F040 chip to switch between 8 programs.

    Now we’re getting to some more ‘flexible’ appication of the G3. For this case, the jumpers should be set as shown, with J1 in the ‘down’ or 29F040 position and J2 (right) in the ‘up’ position. You still stack your BINs using the TunerPro Bin Stacker, but the settings should be such that your Bin Size=64k, Chip Size=512k, and Switch Size=64k.

    When switching in this mode, there will be a little difference. In this mode, position 0-1 are the same and 2-3 are the same and so on. So, in terms of which BIN you will be accessing, you’ll be seeing BIN0 in positions 0-1, BIN1=2-3, etc through BIN7=E-F. This gives you 8 binaries you can put on the chip and select from, with a switch occurring every ‘other’ switch position.

    Case 4: Originally a 27C128 or 27C256 chip, use a 27SF512 chip to switch between 2 programs.

    OK, so you don’t want to run 16 different binaries? Just two? Here’s an option for you. Set up your BIN in TunerPro again, with the Bin Size=16 or 32k, chip size=64k, and switch size=32k. Set the jumpers with J1 in the ‘up’ position and the J2 in the ‘down’ position. This will allow the A15 line to get switched every other switch position.

    When operating in this mode, the first bin will be accessed at switch positions 0,2,4,6,8,A,C,E and the second BIN will be accessed in the other positions. This gives some switching flexibility without the confusion of millions of binary files.

    That’s about it in terms of G3 operation. Again, the installation is pretty much the same as for the G1 so see that section for instructions in that regard.

    Using the ‘EX’ module:
    The function of the ‘EX’ module is that of a remote BIN switching device and display indicator. When used with the G3, the ‘local’ G3 rotary switch should be placed in the ‘0’ zero position!

    If you want to have a ‘AntiTheft’ or ‘Valet’ mode, you should put that binary in position zero, so you can disconnect the EX and carry it with you. It can be unplugged from the ribbon cable at any time. Don’t worry about plugging it in backwards. It won’t short out, it just won’t work right and won’t light up. If it lights up with the car on, you’ve got it right.

    Revisions of the ‘G3’ Switching Adapter

    As of 2015, there are two different versions of the G3 Adapter.

    The first version has a rotary switch on board and a single 10 pin connector.  This is the version that this article has discussed so far.  It was manufactured up to 2015:

    The second version does NOT have a rotary switch.  Instead, it has two connectors – one 10 pin (like before) and a provisoin for a 4 pin (new, open not installed in this picture).  It was manufactured starting in 2015:

    G3 New 2015

    Fortunately, they function nearly identically.  The new version is simplified with fewer configuration steps required due to having fewer jumpers.  Both versions can be used on the same platforms for the same thing – allowing multiple programs to be used on OBD1 GM vehicles.

    • The early version can be used for switching without any external hardware via the knob.  The current version requires either the EX remote (which connects to the 10 pin connector) or a rotary switch with 4 pin cable.
    • The current model only switches three address lines allowing a maximum of 8 programs, regardless of the program size.  Earlier models supported switching more address lines in some configurations
    • The current model will only function in pass-through mode for a single program when using a 28 pin chip.  The previous model could support switching between two 32k or 16k programs with a 28 pin 512k chip.
    • The current model has only one jumper which selects whether a 28 pin 27SF512 chip or 32 pin 29F040 chip is installed.  The earlier model had a second jumper which selected the program size.  The only jumper that needs to be adjusted on the new model is to select which chip (27SF512 vs 29F040) is installed – the current version will always function as if J1 was set for 64k operation.
    • The current model always presents 64k chunks of memory, i.e. if J1 on the earlier model was set for a 64k block size.  The earlier model could present smaller chunks, the current model only presents 64k chunks.  When using 16k or 32k bins with the current G3, ensure they are arranged in the top section of a 64k block.
  • GM 86-95 OBD1 Guide (READ ME)
  • Basics

    When we talk about “OBD1” GM vehicles, we mean vehicles made from (approximately) 1986 to 1995.  These cars used several different types of engine controller – some have one injector for each cylinder (Tuned Port Injection, or TPI along with the LTx motors) while some have fewer injectors that are placed near the throttle body (Throttle Body Injection, or TBI) instead.  All the vehicles of this generation speak the ALDL protocol for logging/vehicle communication.

    For purposes of this guide, “ECM” means Engine Control Module, Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Engine Computer Module (ECM) – terms will be used interchangeably to mean the same thing.

    Hardware for OBD1 GM

    Overview

    94-95 model years are oddballs.  Many of these ECMs support being reflashed over the ALDL interface (e.g. LT1) using TunerCATS.  Some (like the 94-95 TBIs) use a G1 adapter.  Many Grand Prix from these years use the G4 adapter.  Diesels generally use the G5 adapter.

    The process for tuning OBD1 GM products is pretty much the same for all 86-93 model years.  First, a “chip adapter” is used to convert whatever the ECM in question needs into a form that accepts a 28 pin EPROM.  Some chip adapters require soldering for installation (G2, G2X) but most do not (G1, G3, G4, G5).  The same EPROMs can be used for all of our OBD1 GM products (except the switching adapters…) which is usually the 27SF512 – C2.

    After a chip adapter has been installed in an ECM, tuning can begin.  You can burn chips using a ROM burner such as the BURN1/2.  Alternatively, you can either use the Ostrich 2.0 emulator or the emulation facilities of the APU1 to make changes while the vehicle is running.

    Logging from the computer is accomplished using either an ALDU1 or the logging facilities of an APU1.  For 86-94 vehicles, CABL1 is required to connect the logger and the vehicle.  For the 1995 model year, CABL2 is required due to the physically different connector.

    Instead of buying the BURN2, Ostrich2 and ALDU1 separately, you can buy the APU1 unit that does the functions of all three pieces in one unit.

    Hardware

    G1 – “Memcal” style chip adapter (TPI, Syclone/Typhoon, 94-95 TBI, 92-93 LT1, etc.)

    G2 – “TBI” 24 pin style chip adapter

    G2 GN Style – Grand National Only.

    G2X – Multiple program switching version of G2

    G3 – Multiple program switching version of G1

    G4 – Blue Memcal style chip adapter for some 94-95 vehicles

    G5 – Diesel memcal style chip adapter

    HDR1 – Header that allows reading memcals in a BURN1/2.  Used to read stock program on memcal ECMs.

    BURN2 – Programs chips

    Ostrich – USB Chip emulator, allows realtime changes while engine running

    Socket Booster – required for use of Ostrich 2.0 in TBI applications.  Can be used instead of G2 adapter.

    ALDU1– USB ALDL interface

    CABL1– Used to connect an ALDU1 or APU1 and a pre-1995

    CABL2 – Used to connect an ALDU1 or APU1 and a 1995 car

    APU1 – Combines the functions of the BURN2 (programming chips), Ostrich 2.0 (real time chip emulation) and the ALDU1 in one unit

    Applications

    This table is abbreviated. If you don’t see your application here, please email us.

    Vehicle Identification
    Chip Burning
    Adapters
    Emulation
    All-in-One
    Datalogging
    Year & Model
    ECM/PCM Part #
    G1, G3
    86-89 Firebird, Trans Am, Camaro, Corvette TPI
    1227165
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    90-92 Firebird, Trans Am, Camaro, Corvette TPI
    1227730
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    86-93 TBI
    1227747 | 1228747
    X
    X
    X
    X*
    X
    X
    X
    94-95 Corvette, Impala LT1
    16181333 | 16188051
    X
    X
    X ’94
    X ’95
    92-93 Corvette LT1
    16159278
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    86-87 Buick Turbo, 89 Turbo Trans Am
    1227148
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    91-93 Syclone/Typhoon
    1227749
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X
    X

    * Socket Booster (S_BOOSTER) required for Ostrich 2 emulation and TBI ECMs

    If you have excel, you can also take a look at this spreadsheet for a list of what hardware you’ll need with various combinations.

    Software

    TunerPro RT ( link ) and TunerCATS ( link ) are the two most commonly used software packages for OBD1 GM.

    FreeScan is a free datalogger that works with some GM vehicles. ( link )

    There is an excellent cross-reference I found with google that lists common ECMs, which mask (software revision) they use and various other useful information.  ( link )

    Holden Vehicles

    TunerCat OBD1 tuner seems to have the best support for Holden vehicles at this time ( link ) although TunerPro has support for some ( link )

    Hardware-wise, the majority of these vehicles use the G1 chip adapter.  Some of the newer vehicles use our newest G6 chip adapter.  We don’t know the Australian vehicles as well as those stateside so we recommend you check out http://www.delcohacking.net for more info on these vehicles.

  • GM 94-95: Reflash or not?
  • 94 and 95 were also kind of odd years for GM computers as they transitioned toward OBD2.

    There are several groups of ECMs.

    94-95 LT1,LT4,LTx: These can be tuned via TunerCATS ( link ) with the $EE definition and an ALDU1+CABL1 (94 – square ALDL style connector) or ALDU1+CABL2 (95 “D” shape OBD2 connector).  These are typically the 16188051 ECM.  APU1 also works for reflash on these vehicles.  No chip adapter needed.

    94-95 TBI: Unlike all other TBI ECMs (which use a G2 chip adapter) these ECMs are memcal like their TPI cousins and work with the G1 memcal adapter.  Take the cover off the ECM and if you see a memcal, you probably have one of these.  The 16168625 is an example.

    94-95 W-body LQ1: uses the regular MEMCAL found in 1227165/7727/7730 ECMs, you can use the G1 adapter in these units also.

    94-95 3800: Primarily use the 16183247 and subsequently a different style memcal is used than earlier ECMs.   The 94-95 3800 powered regals use a similar ECM that is weatherproofed, the 16183428, but that ECM is specific to the 94-95 3800 Regals only. This family of PCMs have the little blue ‘box’ memcal that has the integrated knock sensing board.   A G4 chip adapter is required for these, it’s shorter than the G1.

    93-95 3100 vehicles (except for the A-bodies, which use a non-weatherproof version of the 94-95 LQ1 PCM) are all flash units. Unfortunately we don’t currently have a solution for these.

    (Thanks to Robert Saar for his help!)

  • GM 96-97: The “odd” years
  • Lately, we have been getting a lot of questions from people with 96-97 GM vehicles looking for a tuning solution.  Unfortunately, these are transitional years where the electronics are incompatible with either the earlier and later computers that are well supported.

    There are a few solutions for people with 96-97 computers:

    -Convert to a 94-95 ECM that is well-supported by TunerCATS OBD1.  This will require an ALDU1+CABL2 combo, TunerCATS OBD1 tuner ($69.95) with a single definition file ($EE – $19.95) OR TunerCats WinFLash and TunerPro RT with the $EE definition, along with a new 94-95 ECM.  This may involve minor wiring changes.  Arguably the most simple and straightforward option.  Preserves all engine sensors, distributor, etc.  This option will work for LTx engines ONLY.  96-97 Vortecs must use another option.

    -Convert to a 98+ ECM that is well-supported by EFI Live.  This will involve more substantial wiring changes and a supported 98+ ECM.  This will involve a 24x reluctor conversion kit. (See here for more information.)  This is *NOT EASY OR SIMPLE* but arguably provides the best solution because quality, trusted LSx electronics replace many problematic parts on the earlier engines such as replacing  the Optispark system with coil-near-plug as found on the LSx.

    -Use TunerCATS OBD2 Tuner.  Even though there are no hardware changes needed for this, I put it towards the bottom of the list.  TunerCATS OBD2 Tuner is only available with Roadrunner ECM hardware because of licensing restrictions BUT Roadrunner hardware isn’t compatible with 96-97 ECMs.  You will end up having to spend $489 on a RoadRunner guts kit (that you can’t use on a 96-97 ECM!), $280 on the  TunerCat RTOBD2 package, and $80 on a definition for your ECM.  Grand total: $850.  Now go back and compare costs to the two conversion options above if you wonder why I didn’t list this option first…

  • GM 98+ OBD2 Guide (READ ME)
  • The main product that we make for 98+ GM vehicles is the RoadRunner emulator that allows realtime changes to be made to a LS1 ECM.

    The RoadRunner is designed to be used with either EFI Live or TunerCATS software.

    EFI Live is a comprehensive tuning software package that includes both an editor and logging application.  The software has the most comprehensive vehicle support out of any package we sell for OBD2 GM, working with both Gen3 and Gen4 ECMs and TCMs.  It is licensed on a per-vehicle or per ECM type basis.

    Tuner CATS OBD2 tuner is used primarily with the RoadRunner hardware.  It only supports Gen3 LS1 ECMs/TCMs.  Tuner CATS OBD2 tuner can ONLY BE SOLD WITH ROADRUNNER HARDWARE.  WE CANNOT SELL IT TO YOU UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES UNLESS YOU BUY ROADRUNNER HARDWARE.  It is licensed on a per ECM type basis.

  • GM: TPI Forced Induction
  • Good Choices (simple)

    You have three choices for tuning forced induction on a TPI ECM (i.e. 7730).

    1. Not REALLY a good option, but a simple one: use stock code, hack it around to be ok at WOT by power enrichment tables.  This is ugly and only has a possibility of working for low boost setups.   Do not do this unless you really don’t care how the car runs except at WOT and you are too lazy to choose another option.
    2. Use Code59 on your ‘7730  (see www.code59.org – a modified version of the $58 code that came in the Syclone/Typhoon turbocharged trucks) For this to work, some wiring mods are needed.  (See here for more wiring info, here for more general info) This is not for the faint of heart, but represents a much better solution overall because you are using code that understands what forced induction is.  Code59 isn’t perfect, but it’s arguably the best option readily available that works with OEM hardware.
    3. Code59 on a ‘749 ECM.  This is pretty similar to #2 above, except you get some additional stuff in the ‘749 that will make it easier to say run P+H injectors.  Rewiring will be needed.  The ‘749 is also setup to control boost via PWM and an external solenoid which can be handy for turbocharged applications.

    You should plan on buying a Wideband O2 (such as the Innovate LC1), something to datalog with (APU1, ALDU1) and something for realtime emulation (APU1, Ostrich2) along with a G1 chip adapter in order to tackle a project like this and have any degree of success.  You could do it without some of these tools, but you probably wouldn’t be reading this webpage for advice if you didn’t need them.

    You will genererally need to install colder spark plugs, (maybe) a spark box, larger injectors (32, 36 or 42lbs would probably be good place to start.  Use an injector calculator to figure out how big you should go based on power goals), a 2bar or 3bar MAP sensor to replace your 1bar factory sensor, sometimes an upgraded fuel pump(s).

    Good Choices (Complicated)

    The other worthwhile option to mention is using a LS1/LS2 ECM with EFI live.  This requires extensive hardware and wiring changes but has great rewards in terms of an upgraded ignition system, more reliable triggering (i.e. no Optispark) and much more powerful and capable ECMs with advanced features.  See EFI Connection 24x / 58x pages for more information on this upgrade.  You can get EFI Live from us after you’re done.

    Bad Choices

    While I’m at it, a lot of people ask about FMUs.  This is a quick explanation of how they work and why they’re a band-aid (at best) not an effective tuning solution:

    • FMU is a rising rate regulator
    • It causes fuel pressure to increase at a fixed ratio with boost pressure (usually 8:1 to 12:1)
    • Fuel delivery (approximately) increases by the difference in sqrt of fuel pressure.  I.e. 40 -> 60 psi = sqrt(60) / sqrt(40)
    • An FMU can generally get fueling approximately ok SOMETIMES but more often than not it results in an overly rich mixture and inconsistent fueling across different RPMs.
    • With 35 psi base pressure and 8psi of boost, a 8:1FMU will be delivering close to 100psi of fuel pressure!  Because it raises fuel pressure so much, there is a significant strain placed on the fuel pump and injectors.  Fuel atomization (and therefore power) suffers a lot at extreme pressures with most injectors.
    • Most importantly, FMUs do nothing to adjust spark to compensate for boost.
    • Bottom line: FMUs are a cheap, hackish bandaid supplied to minimally make things work by running the car artificially rich instead of properly adjusting the mixture and timing for boost.

    The “Good Choices” above are ways of doing things the “right” way.  It’s a lot more work, but you can get the car to run a *lot* better than with an FMU.  Making appropriate adjustments for ignition timing will also let you run a LOT higher boost than with just a FMU.

  • GM: TunerCat OBD2 Tuner
  • Introduction

    TunerCat OBD2 Tuner is a software package that allows tuning of 96-current GM vehicles.  For some early 96-97 vehicles, it is often the only solution. TunerCat OBD2 Tuner must be purchased with our RoadRunner hardware (either with a complete RoadRunner ECM or just a RoadRunner Guts kit)  due to licensing restrictions.  TunerCat OBD2 Tuner also has an optional reflash cable accessory and software (“WinFLASH”) that allows vehicles to be flash programmed over the OBD2 port.  Existing users of TunerCat OBD2 software can use a RoadRunner ECM with the RTOBD2 upgrade.  This upgrade is only available to existing users of the TunerCat software.

    The software supports real time tuning with the RoadRunner on supported vehicles, reading and flashing over the OBD2 port. THERE IS NO BUILT-IN DATALOGGING APPLICATION. You must have a third party logger or scan-tool in order to have an effective tuning combination.  MX Scan used to work with older versions of the TunerCat reflash cable but it is NOT reported to work with current cables.

    TunerCat OBD2 Tuner is licensed on a per-VDF (Vehicle Definition File) basis.  You can purchase each VDF individually or as a package including a group (LS1, All) of definitions and hardware together at a discount.  Each VDF generally covers multiple vehicles that use similar engine controllers.  Once you have purchased a VDF, you may tune as many vehicles of that type as you like – there is no per-VIN licensing.

     

    Installation Tips and Troubleshooting

    TunerCat OBD2 tuner relies on the same FTDI drivers that we use for the rest of our products.  If you suspect you have driver issues, please consult the USB Driver Troubleshooting Guide.

    TunerCat OBD2 Tuner is not the most modern piece of software.  In fact, if you want the software to run properly we highly recommend that you use Windows XP as this is the only operating system that has consistent behavior without a fuss.  TunerCat OBD2 Tuner has been tested to run successfully inside a VMWare Virtual Machine running XP and can be made to run stable in this configuration.

    If you cannot figure out a way to use Windows XP and are going to try to use TunerCat OBD2 tuner under Windows Vista, Win7 and Win8/8.1, follow these steps:

    1. If you’ve already run the installers, first uninstall the program.
    2. In order for the programs to install correctly the installation program must be run in Compatibility mode. Before running the setup program right click on it. Select Properties from the list and then click the Compatibility tab. From there, pick the default (Windows XP SP2), click on the ‘Apply’ button and then click on the ‘OK’ button.
    3. Now double click on the setup program to install the program and follow the on-screen instruction to complete the installation.
    4. After completing the installation you’ll also need to set the OBDII RT Tuner program itself to run in compatibility mode. To do so, right click on the OBDII RT Tuner icon on the Desktop, Select ‘Properties’ from the pop-up menu and then click the ‘Compatibility’ tab. On the Compatibility screen click on the ‘Run the program in compatibility mode, select the default Windows XP SP2, check the ‘Run as administrator’ box, click on the ‘Apply’ button and then click on the ‘OK’ button. Then repeat this process for the WinFlash OBDII program.

     

    Vehicle Support

    The latest list of supported vehicles can always be found here: TunerCat ODB2 VDF files

    As of the time of writing (3-26-2012), the following vehicles are supported:


    Vehicle Definition
    File P/N

    Supported Vehicles

    Trucks

    OBD2_07


    1996 – 97 Vortec Trucks (4.3L, 5.0L,
    5.7L, 7.4L)


    OBD2_06


    1998 – 00 Vortec Trucks (4.3L, 5.0L,
    5.7L, 7.4L)


    OBD2_19

    1999 –
    00 Medium Duty Trucks (7.4L MFI Gas)


    OBD2_03

    2001 –
    02 LS1 Trucks (4.3L, 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, 8.1L)


    OBD2_04

    2003 –
    05 LS1 Trucks (4.3L, 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, 8.1L)


    OBD2_14

    2006
    – 07* LS1 Trucks (4.3L, 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, 8.1L)


    (*only 2007 trucks with old style
    PCM are supported)


    OBD2_29

    2002
    – 05 L6 4.2L Trailblazer, Envoy, Bravada


    OBD2_50

    2007
    – 08 V8 Trucks & SUVs (CAN Bus E38 ECM)


    OBD2_51

    2009
    – 12 V8 Trucks & SUVs (CAN Bus E38 ECM except 2011-12 L96 6.0L
    Heavy Duty Trucks)


    OBD2_52

    2007
    – 12 V6 4.3L Trucks & SUVs (CAN Bus E37 ECM)


    OBD2_59

    2008 – 2009 Cadillac SRX 4.6L

    2008 – 2012 Chevy Colorado 2.9L,
    3.7L and 5.3L

    2008 – 2009 Chevy Trailblazer, SS
    4.2L, 5.3L and 6.0L

    2008 – 2012 GMC Canyon 2.9L, 3.7L
    and 5.3L

    2008 – 2009 GMC Envoy 4.2L, 5.3L


    2008 – 2010 Hummer H3, H3T 3.7L and 5.3L

    V8 Cars
    OBD2_08

    1996 –
    97 LT1 Corvette, Camaro, Firebird, Impala

    OBD2_09 1997
    – 98 LS1 Corvette, Camaro, Firebird
    OBD2_01

    1999
    – 01 LS1 Corvette, Camaro, Firebird


    1999 – 2001 Holden

    OBD2_05

    2002 –
    03 LS1 Corvette, Camaro, Firebird


    OBD2_20

    2002 –
    2004 Holden


    OBD2_10

    2004
    LS1 Corvette

    OBD2_12 2004
    GTO
    OBD2_13 2004 – 05 Cadillac CTS-V

    OBD2_53

    2010
    – 12 V8 Camaro / 2009 – 2011 Corvette (except 2011 ZR1)

    OBD2_55 2006 – 08 Corvette
    OBD2_56 2008 – 09 Pontiac G8 V8
    V6 Cars
    OBD2_15 1996 Camaro/Firebird
    V6
    OBD2_16 1997 Camaro/Firebird
    V6
    OBD2_17 1998 – 1999 Camaro/Firebird
    V6
    OBD2_18 2000 – 2002 Camaro/Firebird
    V6
    OBD2_23 1996 V6
    Chevy*/Buick/Pontiac* 3.1, 3.4, 3.8L
     (*except
    Camaro/Firebird)
    OBD2_24 1997 V6
    Chevy*/Buick/Pontiac* 3.1, 3.4, 3.8L
     (*except
    Camaro/Firebird)
    OBD2_25 1998 – 1999 V6
    Chevy*/Buick/Pontiac* 3.1, 3.4, 3.8L
     (*except
    Camaro/Firebird)
    OBD2_26 2000 – 2001 V6
    Chevy*/Buick/Pontiac* 3.1, 3.4, 3.8L
     (*except
    Camaro/Firebird)
    OBD2_27 2002 – 2003 V6
    Chevy*/Buick/Pontiac* 3.1, 3.4, 3.8L
     (*except
    Camaro/Firebird)
    OBD2_28 2004 – 2005 V6
    Chevy/Buick/Pontiac* 3.1, 3.4, 3.8L
     (*2004/05 Grand Prix
    not
    supported)
    Transmissions
    OBD2_60 2007 – 2012 T42 Transmission
    Controller – 4 speed Automatic
    OBD2_61 2007 – 2012 T43 Transmission
    Controller – 6 speed Automatic
  • Ground loops, or why power inverters can fry things
  • Quick Explanation / TL;DR: / READ ME

    If you have called to ask for help, one of the things we often ask you is, “Are you using a power inverter to power your laptop?  Do you have your laptop plugged in to the wall?”

    There is a reason for this, and we see product get killed every year because of it.  If you don’t want the “why” and just want to know what to do, stop reading after this next line (or skip to the more detailed “solutions” section at the end):

     

    DO NOT PLUG POWER INTO YOUR LAPTOP WHILE YOUR MOATES DEVICE IS CONNECTED TO ANYTHING ELSE, LIKE YOUR CAR!!!

     

     

    Full Explanation Why

    Alternating Current (or “AC”) does not rely on ground to operate, guaranteeing only the difference between two terminals and that the voltage periodically changes polarity (plus and minus “alternating”).  AC is what comes out of the wall in most electric grid delivery.  Direct Current (“DC”) is what comes out of batteries and other DC power sources.  With DC, potential stays one direction without changing polarity and voltage produced by a battery is expressed as a positive number of volts.  The negative terminal of the power source is generally assumed to be where you are measuring from when talking about DC.

    Ground is not zero volts.  Ground, electrically speaking, is just the place we agree to call zero.  It’s just a convention, a spot to measure from.

    AC can have both a negative and positive component with respect to ground.  It can also be entirely positive with respect to ground.  It can also be entirely negative with respect to ground.  As long as the DIFFERENCE between the two AC terminals varies according to specification, they can be valid AC.  For instance, two wires varying between -220 and -100 volts and two wires varying between 50 and 170 volts can both be 120VAC because ((-100) – (-220)) = 120 and ((170) – (50) = 120.  It doesn’t matter that neither of these AC voltages is centered around what we are calling zero volts (“ground”).  In most residential electricity, the “neutral” wire is supposed to be connected to earth ground (literally, a stake in the ground) at the power distribution box but this is not required for AC current to be present – only the varying voltage potential between two points is required even though neutral really is earth ground in most residential electric.

    DC is generally (but not always) expressed as a positive voltage with respect to ground.  If you were to reverse your multimeter’s leads and connect the minus lead to the positive terminal of the battery, the chassis (assuming the negative terminal is connected to the chassis) would measure -12V.  The voltage supplied by an ECU to a throttle position sensor is generally 5V, with respect to sensor ground.  If you were to measure the voltage at the TPS sensor +5v supply with your multimeter ground connected to the +12v terminal of the battery, you could expect to see (+5V –  +12V) = -7V instead of +5V.   If you move your multimeter minus terminal to the TPS- pin, you should see +5V between TPS- and TPS+ reference.  The voltage didn’t change – how you observed it changed because of where you chose to call ground.

    Ground is just a convention that we agree on.  If you do funny things with ground, you will get strange results.

    If you have AC voltage without an explicit ground, you have an infinite number of ways to make DC from it.  In most cases, AC-DC supplies pick a potential in the middle of the AC range and “call it” ground.  They then use electronic components to create a voltage that is always a fixed difference from the AC voltage picked and call this the output.  The AC-DC supply provides BOTH “ground” and “supply” as outputs.  As long as whatever DC load is connected only ever sees these ground and supply terminals, it will operate perfectly as it has a constant voltage potential (DC Voltage).  For most common DC devices (cellphones, laptops, etc.) this is perfectly acceptable because the electrical energy inside the device is largely self contained and it doesn’t need to interface with other devices powered by DC.  For sake of an example, let’s assume that we stick our multimeter minus lead into the ground.  Our AC input measures -60V to +60v with respect to the earth, for 120V total difference.  Our power supply outputs +42V and +30V with respect to the earth.  The difference between the output terminals (+42V, +30V) is +12V, and a 12V DC load would be perfectly happy.

    If you have a DC voltage and you want to create a AC voltage, there are also an essentially infinite number of possible ways to do it.  As long as the difference between the outputs measures appropriately and the signal switches like it should, an AC device should function correctly.  If we agree that ground is the negative battery terminal, our power inverter plugged into a cigarette lighter socket on a vehicle receives +12V and 0V from the battery.  It can output a voltage that swings between +120V and 0V.  It can output a voltage that swings between 0V and -120V.  Both of these will be A-OK for something plugged into the power inverter looking for AC because the difference between the AC outputs varies by 120VAC.

    So what happens when we take our example AC-DC power supply (supply +60/-60: receive +12V in the form of +42V and +30V) into our power inverter supplying +0V and -120V?  The power inverter is giving a 120V AC output so the AC-DC supply works fine.  The AC-DC supply chooses 18V below max input (+60V – +42V) for its output and 30V below max input (+60V – +30V) for its output.  The AC-DC supply is being fed 0V maximum and -120V minimum.  It outputs 18V below max input (-18V) for its output and 30V below max input (-30V) for its “ground” coming out, which is a difference of +12V (-18V – -30V) so completely acceptable to run our 12V widget that we’ve plugged into the inverter.

    But what happens if our widget, powered off -18V and -30V, gets connected by a USB cable to the vehicle?  If we measure all of our supply voltages from the same spot, -30V is a different potential than the terminal of the battery, which we agreed was “0” when we called it ground.  This difference in ground voltage supplied to two devices with a connection in between is called a “ground loop.”  Ground loops happen when two wires that are both supposed to be at the same ground potential get connected together with power supplies driving ground to different absolute voltage potentials.  If you have two power supplies that are trying to push “ground” to two different voltages and you connect them together but they don’t agree about where “zero” is, so you end up with current flowing from “ground” of one power supply to “ground” of the other power supply, trying to equal things out.  Most of the time, the small cables (USB, ribbon, etc.) supplied with our devices which provide the path from one ground potential to the other aren’t cut out for supplying many amps of power than can be supplied by a modern DC power adapter, leading to far more current flowing through wires that were not designed for it.  Heat, smoke and damage are the usual result.

    When a laptop is running off battery, the battery provides voltage from chemical energy stored in the battery and the positive voltage output will always be relative to the battery’s negative terminal, regardless of the absolute potential of the negative terminal.  A 12V battery will measure +112V at the positive terminal when the negative terminal is connected to +100V because the chemical energy will create a DIFFERENCE (112V -100V = 12V) in voltage.  This allows the ground terminal to “float” to whatever voltage is convenient, usually determined by whatever the laptop is connected to.  Having a USB cable connected to a device connected to the chassis ground of the car doesn’t result in a lot of current flowing from the laptop’s negative battery terminal to the car’s negative battery terminal because the battery can work with the negative terminal floating, so it isn’t trying to drive ground to a difference absolute potential, only power the laptop with a relative difference in potential.  However, when running off an AC adapter, the AC adapter has to drive ground to a specific potential in order to be able to supply the positive voltage it needs to charge.  This is where the opportunity for things to go wrong starts.


    There needs to be two power supplies with two different grounds for chaos to ensue.  This generally means that there is also a AC-DC conversion happening where ground gets “lost” somewhere along the way.  Some examples of two power supplies where things can go wrong:
    • Car battery (12V and ground), DC-AC inverter plugged in to the cigarette lighter(120V AC out with no common ground reference), AC-DC power adapter plugged in to inverter (+18V and “ground”, with ground floating somewhere between the voltages coming out of the inverter) connected to a Laptop with its USB ports connected to AC-DC adapter ground.  Ground loop forms from AC-DC power adapter “ground” through laptop through USB port through USB cable to device connected to car battery ground.
    • Bench power supply (providing 12V and ground) to ECU connected to laptop powered by AC-DC adapter (providing +20V and ground).  Laptop and ECU connected by USB port ground, AC adapter for laptop and AC-DC power supply for ECU trying to achieve different “ground”
    • Car battery (12V and ground) connected to DC laptop charger.  DC laptop charger creates 20V to charge laptop but does so with a “hidden” DC-AC conversion coupled with an AC-DC conversion.  DC goes in, DC goes out but ground is “lost” in a hidden AC conversion in the middle.  By the time DC comes out, ground potential has shifted from ground supplied to it.  Ground loop forms from laptop ground connected to floating ground of DC-DC converter and battery ground of car connected to ECU connected together by USB ground wire.

    So why don’t you just isolate all your Moates devices?


    If we used isolated communications on all of our devices, you would need to power all of our devices independently of your laptop in order to communicate.  This would mean all our emulators would need the key on to be able to load a program to them.  This would mean you’d need the vehicle powered to retrieve logs from any device that had onboard logging.  When devices were designed, it was decided that the convenience and utility of having the laptop power up the device enough to communicate with it outweighed the dangers and disadvantages of potential ground loops.  For both the laptop and ECU to be able to power a Moates device, there needed to be a shared/common ground.  With a shared/common ground, the possibility of ground loops exists.  For better or worse, this is how things were designed and they’re not changing now.  When connecting to any Moates USB product, you need to be aware of ground loops and the havoc they can cause.

    Solutions for ground loops?

    What can you do about this?
    • The standard recommendation is “don’t run your laptop on a charger/inverter.”  This allows ground of the laptop (which is connected to pins on the USB port) to float to whatever potential it is connected to instead of being driven to a certain potential by a charging adapter.
    • Another solution is to explicitly tie the laptop’s ground to the power ground supplied to the ECU and link the chargers together, but be aware that whatever wire you use to do this may need to carry a significant amount of current.
    • Using chargers which explicitly reference a common ground potential and don’t try to push ground to two different places would be ideal, but it’s often hard to determine how power supplies are designed prior to purchase.
    • If you have to use two different power supplies (car battery and inverter+AC adapter, two AC adapters, etc.) use a multimeter to measure the voltage between the ground pins with them plugged in and powered.  If it isn’t zero volts, you’re almost guaranteed to have a ground loop.  You can also unplug everything so no adapter is powered and measure the resistance from one ground to another.  It should be low, ideally zero.  Anything more than a single digit number of ohms is likely to give you a ground loop.
    • Using isolated communications is another solution.  These may not be available for all devices but most of our emulators and “active” gear have a 4 pin port for direct communication, which would allow either the BT or Iso options, with an appropriate cable.  (Pinouts are documented.)  The two things we sell to enable this are:
      • Bluetooth interfaces (there are no wires – communications happens over radio energy)
      • The Optoisolator cable. (which uses a device that turns electricity into light to allow communication without an electrical connection)
  • Hardware Installation Guide
  • This guide applies to all Moates hardware with USB interface. This includes:

    • Ostrich 1.0
    • Ostrich 2.0
    • Burn1
    • Burn2
    • HuLog
    • Xtreme HuLog
    • HondaLog
    • Autoprom (APU1)
    • ALDU1
    • Xtreme ALDU

    Begin by inserting the CD that came with your hardware. If you do not have your CD, download the latest drivers here

    Basic Installation

    Browse to the “USB Device Drivers” folder and select the appropriate file. Note: We recommend Windows 2000/XP/Vista/W7. Windows 98 can be touchy.

    For Windows 2000/XP/Vista/W7 Double Click “CDM Setup Auto-Install”, then plug in your device.

    For older versions of Windows, extract the Older non-self-installing drivers.zip archive, plug in your device, and direct the driver installation wizard to the folder that you extracted the zip.

    Problems / Troubleshooting

    There is a more detailed guide available here for initial driver installation with additional OS specific recomendations. There is also a more detailed guide with pictures for troubleshooting USB related issues available here.

    Performance Tip

    For better performance, we recommend decreasing the “latency timer” to 1ms on your FTDI device.

    This can be done by entering your Device Manager then going to Ports (COM & LPT)->USB Serial Port (COMX)->Right-Click->Properties->Port Settings->Advanced->Latency Timer

     

    Screenshots are available in the troubleshooting guide.

  • HDR1
  • Moates.Net HDR1 Memory Header Installation Instructions

    Instructions for using the 'HDR1' Memory Header

    The HDR1 memory adapter is primarily designed to download the existing code from a stock Memcal.
    It can be used for other things as well. For instance, if you want to use a UV eraser on your stock Memcal and then reprogram it without tearing stuff up, the HDR1 allows this to be done very easily.

    Step 1: Take the stock Memcal (or whatever) and identify where the pins come out for the existing EPROM.

    Step 2: Insert the HDR1 into the Memcal and note the orientation of the existing chip.

    Step 3: Place the assembly into your favorite chip reader / programmer (AutoProm shown, chip notch facing ZIF handle, empty spaces nearest to handle).

    Step 4: Go ahead and read or re-program the chip.

     

    That's it! No mess, no fuss. Pretty straightforward.

     

  • HDR1 Support
  • HDR1

    Instructions for using the ‘HDR1’ Memory Header

     

    The HDR1 memory adapter is primarily designed to download the existing code from a stock Memcal.
    It can be used for other things as well. For instance, if you want to use a UV eraser on your stock Memcal and then reprogram it without tearing stuff up, the HDR1 allows this to be done very easily.

    Step 1: Take the stock Memcal (or whatever) and identify where the pins come out for the existing EPROM.

    Step 2: Insert the HDR1 into the Memcal and note the orientation of the existing chip.

    Step 3: Place the assembly into your favorite chip reader / programmer (AutoProm shown, chip notch facing ZIF handle, empty spaces nearest to handle).

    Step 4: Go ahead and read or re-program the chip.

    That’s it! No mess, no fuss. Pretty straightforward.

  • Help We Provide
  • We aim to be as transparent as possible about EFI tuning and the products we sell, allowing you to make educated decisions.  You won’t call us up and have someone tell you it will be easy and you’ll have your crazy engine tuned in 30 minutes unless that really is the case.  You’re going to hear a more pessimistic account of what it would take because we think it is important for you to have realistic expectations.  EFI Tuning isn’t the kind of thing most folks can master in a few hours.  You’re not in it alone, however, as we are here to help.  This article will discuss what we do and don’t provide in terms of assistance.

    We will:

    • Help troubleshoot startup issues such as drivers, software installation and physical connections needed
    • If necessary, provide remote computer control during phone support hours to get you to the point where you are connected and can log data and/or make changes, as appropriate
    • Answer SPECIFIC questions about how to tune your vehicle like “What do I need to change to raise my idle when in gear on my 93 Mustang?”
    • Look over a tune or datalog you send us for “sanity” – i.e. is there something obvious wrong
    • Try to direct you to resources such as forums or documentation available online to further answer any questions you may have when we don’t have answers

    We will NOT:

    • Provide base tunes.  Everything we sell is blank.  If absolutely necessary, we can try to refer you to someone who can provide a ready-made tune for you.
    • Provide specific tune guidance. i.e. “You should try 20 degrees of timing.”
    • Provide extensive hand-holding, i.e. step-by-step tuning guidance
    • Answer vague or open-ended questions i.e. “How do I tune my car?”
    • Look over tunes or datalogs and tell you what to change.
    • Provide any assistance modifying or disabling emissions equipment
  • Honda Chipping Kit

  • by keebler65 on UberData

    http://home.mn.rr.com/keebler65/honda

    Intro

    Uberdata is basically a FREE piece of software that enables you to modify your Honda ECU's code using a Windows-based program. All of the fuel and timing maps in your ECU are stored in a ROM chip (Read Only Memory). Uberdata allows you to program your own ROM chip with custom maps. In order to do this, you need an OBD1 vehicle, and a "chipped" ECU. This page will explain how to chip your ECU as well as the basic process of burning a ROM chip. For more information on Uberdata, visit the official site here. There is also a message board there to search for questions that have already been asked and answered by others. For more (a lot more) info on modifying Honda ECU's in general, visit PGMFi.org.

    ECU Chipping

    In order to use Uberdata, you need to add a few additional components to the original Honda ECU. It requires some soldering skills and should not be attempted unless you have soldered before. (Chances are you know someone with soldering skills that could help you). Here is a picture of the P28 ECU that I chipped, before any of the parts were put in:


    Before you can solder the parts in, you will need to de-solder the holes in the circuit board since they come filled with solder from the factory. You can buy a "solder sucker" to do the job, however unless you get a nice one (expensive) they don't really work well in my opinion. The cheap and easy solution is to buy some solder braid. It's just braided copper. Simply place it over the hole to be de-soldered, and place the soldering iron on top of the braid. It will then wick up the solder into the braid. It's available at radioshack:




    Don't forget to cut J12 when using datalogging!

    You'll want to use a decent quality soldering iron to get the job done nicely. The important thing is to not use too much heat, and also make sure the iron has a fine tip on it. I'm using a standard Weller iron:


    Here is what it should look like after the board has been de-soldered:


    The parts that need to be added are boxed in with a dashed white line. The parts consist of (2) .1uF ceramic capacitors, (1) 1k resistor, (1) wire jumper (simply a piece of wire...I used a lead of the resistor), (1) 74HC373 chip, and (1) 29C256 chip (thats the EPROM). The resistor and capacitors have no polarity, so you don't have to worry about installing them backwards. The 74HC373 chip does have a polarity. Pin 1 will be on the left side of the pic (you'll see in detail later one). The same is true for the EPROM chip. Since it would be impossible to burn a chip and have the tune be perfect, it becomes obvious that you don't want to solder the chip in. Instead, use a socket so that it can be removed. You have two options: for less than $1, you can get a standard DIP socket. The problem is these are very hard to insert and remove the chips since there are 28 pins (it requires a lot of force and is hard to grip the chip). Your second option would be a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket, which costs less than $10. It is a socket that has a lever: pull up the lever, set the chip in/lift it out, and flip the lever back - VERY nice to have since you'll be doing this many times while tuning. Be careful when ordering the ZIF socket, as many of them are too large to fit on the board without running into things. The first ZIF I bought was made by Aries, and it was a very quality piece, however, it was too large and bulky to fit without a lot of modification to other components on the board. I ended up ordering a different one that was much more compact. I am unaware of the brand, however it is blue and is referred to as a low-profile ZIF. The only problem was that the lever end of it was in the way of the 74HC373. The easy solution is to buy a standard DIP socket as mentioned above. Solder this onto the board. Then, stack the ZIF onto this socket, which raises the ZIF away from the board enough to clear the surrounding parts. This setup worked very well for me. The following picture shows the too-big-to-fit ZIF in the back-left, the low-profile ZIF in the front left, and the DIP socket on the right:


    The ZIF socket stacked on the DIP socket for added height:


    And finally, a couple of pics with all of the parts installed:



    I ordered most of my parts from www.jdr.com except for the low-profile ZIF socket and DIP socket, which I obtained from www.jameco.com. The following table containse the exact part numbers that I ordered. You'll notice that I ordered two EPROMS. This way, it will be easier to burn one while the other is installed.

    Part Number Quantity Description Source
    29C256-12PC 2 This is the chip that you burn with Uberdata JDR
    74HC373 1 The other chip that is reqired JDR
    R1.0K 1 1K resistor JDR
    .1UF 2 .1uF capacitors JDR
    102744 1 Low profile ZIF Socket Jameco
    40336 1 28 Pin DIP socket Jameco



    Additionally, I have recently located all of the parts you will need from one source. DigiKey is where you can find them. Their inventory selection can be overwhelming, so here are the part numbers you will want:

    Part Number Quantity Description
    AT29C256-70PC-ND 2 This is the chip that you burn with Uberdata
    MM74HC373N-ND 1 The other chip that is reqired
    1.0KEBK-ND 1 1K resistor
    399-2127-ND 2 .1uF capacitors
    A347-ND 1 Low profile ZIF Socket
    AE7228-ND 1 28 Pin DIP socket



  • Honda Chipping Kit Install
  • This is Keebler65’s old guide. Some of the chipset and software info is a bit dated, but the techniques are good.

    ECU Chipping

    You need to add a few additional components to the original Honda ECU. It requires some soldering skills and should not be attempted unless you have soldered before. (Chances are you know someone with soldering skills that could help you). Here is a picture of the P28 ECU that I chipped, before any of the parts were put in:


    Before you can solder the parts in, you will need to de-solder the holes in the circuit board since they come filled with solder from the factory. You can buy a “solder sucker” to do the job, however unless you get a nice one (expensive) they don’t really work well in my opinion. The cheap and easy solution is to buy some solder braid. It’s just braided copper. Simply place it over the hole to be de-soldered, and place the soldering iron on top of the braid. It will then wick up the solder into the braid. It’s available at radioshack:


    You’ll want to use a decent quality soldering iron to get the job done nicely. The important thing is to not use too much heat, and also make sure the iron has a fine tip on it. I’m using a standard Weller iron:


    Here is what it should look like after the board has been de-soldered:


    The parts that need to be added are boxed in with a dashed white line. The parts consist of (2) .1uF ceramic capacitors, (1) 1k resistor, (1) wire jumper (simply a piece of wire…I used a lead of the resistor), (1) 74HC373 chip, and (1) 29C256 chip (thats the EPROM). The resistor and capacitors have no polarity, so you don’t have to worry about installing them backwards. The 74HC373 chip does have a polarity. Pin 1 will be on the left side of the pic (you’ll see in detail later one). The same is true for the EPROM chip. Since it would be impossible to burn a chip and have the tune be perfect, it becomes obvious that you don’t want to solder the chip in. Instead, use a socket so that it can be removed. You have two options: for less than $1, you can get a standard DIP socket. The problem is these are very hard to insert and remove the chips since there are 28 pins (it requires a lot of force and is hard to grip the chip). Your second option would be a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket, which costs less than $10. It is a socket that has a lever: pull up the lever, set the chip in/lift it out, and flip the lever back – VERY nice to have since you’ll be doing this many times while tuning. Be careful when ordering the ZIF socket, as many of them are too large to fit on the board without running into things. The first ZIF I bought was made by Aries, and it was a very quality piece, however, it was too large and bulky to fit without a lot of modification to other components on the board. I ended up ordering a different one that was much more compact. I am unaware of the brand, however it is blue and is referred to as a low-profile ZIF. The only problem was that the lever end of it was in the way of the 74HC373. The easy solution is to buy a standard DIP socket as mentioned above. Solder this onto the board. Then, stack the ZIF onto this socket, which raises the ZIF away from the board enough to clear the surrounding parts. This setup worked very well for me. The following picture shows the too-big-to-fit ZIF in the back-left, the low-profile ZIF in the front left, and the DIP socket on the right:


    The ZIF socket stacked on the DIP socket for added height:


    And finally, a couple of pics with all of the parts installed:



    I ordered most of my parts from www.jdr.com except for the low-profile ZIF socket and DIP socket, which I obtained from www.jameco.com. The following table containse the exact part numbers that I ordered. You’ll notice that I ordered two EPROMS. This way, it will be easier to burn one while the other is installed.

    Part Number Quantity Description Source
    29C256-12PC 2 This is the chip that you burn with Uberdata JDR
    74HC373 1 The other chip that is reqired JDR
    R1.0K 1 1K resistor JDR
    .1UF 2 .1uF capacitors JDR
    102744 1 Low profile ZIF Socket Jameco
    40336 1 28 Pin DIP socket Jameco

    Additionally, I have recently located all of the parts you will need from one source. DigiKey is where you can find them. Their inventory selection can be overwhelming, so here are the part numbers you will want:

    Part Number Quantity Description
    AT29C256-70PC-ND 2 This is the chip that you burn with Uberdata
    MM74HC373N-ND 1 The other chip that is reqired
    1.0KEBK-ND 1 1K resistor
    478-4279-3-ND 2 .1uF capacitors
    A347-ND 1 Low profile ZIF Socket
    A409AE-ND 1 28 Pin DIP socket

    And for a final update to this page, I’d like to add that you can find ALL of the necessary chipping parts at moates.net. It is a great deal in my opinion, and you’re guaranteed to get the correct parts the first time around. It’s under the name of “Honda ECU Chipping Kit”.

  • Honda Chipping Kit Install: SMD for JDM/Small-Box ECUs
  • You will need bridge J1 on the back of the ECU.

    Add C49 & C50 and C91 & C92 on back

    C49 & C50 –> .004UF (Digikey part number 399-1230-1-nd )

    C91 & C92 –> .00001UF ( digikey Part Number 399-1192-1-nd )

    Add the 74hc373 SMD chip. (MFG part# SN74HC373NSR, Digi-Key Part Number 296-8310-1-ND)

    Add a 29C256 eprom with bin written to it.

    For RTP/Datalogging w/ Crome remove J4 on front.

    Solder in a 4 pin header (snappable header pins 1×40 work GREAT for this and are VERY cheap)

    All info is from the following threads:

    http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?t=3112&highlight=chipping+jdm+computers

    Special thanks to all the contributors of the above thread and katman for doing the pics in the first place… We love you katman 🙂

    http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?t=4005&highlight=chipping+jdm+computers

    Thanks to infotechplus for pics and info on C49,C50,C91,C92

  • Honda Engine Sim
  • The Honda EngineSim was introduced to allow interactive bench testing of Honda ECUs.  It supplies the signals from the distributor and many sensors so that an ECU can be fooled into thinking it has a functioning, running engine connected when it is safely on the bench.  Controls are simple: on/off switches and knobs to adjust values up and down.  Outputs like injectors, ignition control module (ICM) and solenoids can be observed via LEDs.  This provides a means for testing ECUs outside of a vehicle and observing many common faults such as damaged injector drivers, fuel pump drivers and distributor VR sensor amplifier damage.  Note: none of the sim versions can simulate idle air control valve behavior well enough to avoid a Code 14.  This limitation is present in all hardware versions.  (There is a bin available for download which has the code disabled to use for testing.)

    All 3 versions of the Engine Sim are covered on this page.  Information on harnesses is provided for each revision.

    The current version will NOT be available for purchase on the Moates.net website.  It is available for purchase directly from its creator, Dave Blundell (your friendly Moates Tech support) and will be sold directly from his company.  At this time, PayPal is the only accepted method of payment, but you can use a credit card through paypal.  Units will be available for $150+ship as pictured WITHOUT A HARNESS OR POWER ADAPTER.  There will be $10 flat fee for USPS shipping for US residents.  USPS and DHL available for international – please email for a quote with your address.   (Sold out!  Thank you everyone!)

     

    Moving forward, all sales will be handled through Burton Racing and HA Motorsports who have stock of current models available, including with a harness and power adapter. ( as of 1/1/2022 )

     

    Version 3 – 2019 Production

    The third revision of the Honda Engine sim was introduced January 2019.  It is supplied without a power supply or harness.  It has terminal block connections suitable for building a harness using a harness pigtail.  Some of the small annoyances of earlier versions such as injector LEDs that dimly glow when the injector is off have been fixed but it is largely the same unit with an increased number of channels compared to earlier models.  Picture for identification purposes: (note: pre-production prototype pictured.  production PCBs may vary in color)

    sim v3 prepro

     

    Sim V3 Power Supply

    The Sim v3 is supplied without a power supply.  The sim has a center-positive 2.1mm barrel jack for power.  Alternatively, wires can be soldered to “CONST PWR” and “GND” instead of the barrel jack.  There is not a single “right” power adapter for this – you could even use a variable voltage supply to investigate behavior of the ECU under different power conditions.  In addition to many “wall wart” style adapters, the 12V rail of an AT/ATX power supply (yellow + black color wires typically) is suitable.

    Power supplied to the sim will be supplied to the ECU, through a diode and PTC fuse.  This means that whatever voltage coming in will go out to the ECU, minus 0.6V or so forward voltage (Vf) for a silicon protection diode.  i.e. 15V in, 14.4V supply to ECU or 12.0V in, 11.4V supply to ECU.  You will make the protection circuitry on the sim unhappy (and hot) supplying more than 17V but unregulated / marginally regulated supplies will work ok – the sim isn’t terribly picky about stable voltage.  Maximum current draw for an ECU and all LEDs lit up simultaneously (unlikely scenario) was around 680ma.  400-500ma is a more realistic current draw for sizing purposes.

    The PTC fuse on the sim is a thermal fuse.  As current goes through it, it gets warmer.  As it gets warmer, it’s resistance increases.  More power = more heat.  Eventually, the PTC fuse will enter a thermal runaway scenario where it cuts off.  If you connect an ECU that is shorted out or otherwise drawing an excessive amount of power, you will see the sim “shut down” or all the lights get really dim except for the main power LED that remains lit whenever power is connected to the unit.

    Sim V3 Wire Harness

    The Sim V3 is supplied without a harness – you must construct your own.  You will need a set of plugs from a 92-95 Honda Civic, Accord, Prelude, etc.  It is recommended but not required to strip the connectors down to only the wires to be connected to the sim, removing any pins that will be unused.  In some cases, it may be necessary to add wires to the harness for all Engine Sim functions.  The recommended pins in the harness to use: (image stolen from http://www.ff-squad.com Tech Library, thanks Katman!)

     

    A Plug with wires: (wire colors will vary!)

    OBD1 A Plug

    B Plug with wires: (wire colors will vary!)

    OBD1 B Plug

    D Plug with wires: (wire colors will vary!)

    OBD1 D Plug

    After the connectors have been prepared, each wire needs to be stripped before inserting into the Engine Sim connectors:

    OBD1 Plugs stripped

    It’s helpful if the wires are approximately the right length to go where they need to.  Putting them next to the Sim can help with this:

    OBD1 Plugs and Sim

    Insert each wire and turn the screw terminal clockwise to squeeze each wire tightly enough that it does not come out when you gently tug on it.

    (pic?)

    Final result: all wires connected to screw terminals and securely screwed down:

    ffullywired

     

     

    Version 2.0 -DISCONTINUED

    The second revision of the Honda Engine sim was offered with a connector and harness that could be disconnected and a 12V 1A wall wart power supply.  This was sold directly through Moates.net.  No spare parts are available for this.  This was discontinued due to poor harness availability and unreliable wiring suppliers.  Warranty service is no longer offered.  We also are making the harness documentation available so that repairs to existing units can be made.  Picture for identification purposes:

    rY

    Harness documentation: Engine Simulator Diagram V2

    Plastic connector for harness is AMP/Tyco 102387-6  Pins for black sim connector (102387-6) are AMP/Tyco 87523-6.  Both are available from usual electronic parts distributors.

     

    Version 1.0 – DISCONTINUED

    The original Honda Engine Sim was offered with the harness hard-wired to the unit and a wall wart power adapter.  This was sold directly by Moates.net.  No spare parts are available for this.  This unit was discontinued in favor of version 2 with a separate harness.  Warranty service is no longer offered.  These pictures are offered for identification purposes:

    sim v1 prod


  • Honda: Identifying your ECU
  • Honda ECUs have a Diagnostic Generation, Model and a Board Revision.

    The diagnostic generations are OBD 0, OBD I, and OBD II.

    Examples of the model are  P28, P72, etc.

    The board revisions are 1980, 11F0, and 1720.

    Diagnostic Generation (OBD 0, OBD I, OBD IIa/b)

    Every generation

    Every generation

    From top to bottom:

      Knowing the generation of your ECU is extremely important. For a P28 it is easy because the P28 was only made for OBD I vehicles, however Integra ECUs like the P72 and P75 have both OBD I and OBD II variants. Be weary of this when you are purchasing an ECU online, an OBD II ECU is basically worthless.

      OBD IIbOBD IIaOBD IOBD 0

      Model (P28/P72/etc)

      Side view of P28

      Side view of P28

      Just because you have an OBD 0 or OBD I ECU doesn’t necessarily mean that you’ll be able to just up and tune. Take a look at the side of your ECU, you’ll see 37820-PXX-XXX. The numbers following the P, like P28 or P30 are very important. Here are some things to note about the most common variants:

      • P05 – Civic CX – Most basic supported ECU. Doesn’t have O2 Heater circuit, disable this to prevent CEL
      • P06 – Civic DX – Same as P05 but has heater circuit
      • P08 – JDM Civic – Same as P06, but has VTEC
      • P28 –  Civic Ex/Si – The standard issue tuning ECU.
      • P30 – Del Sol VTEC – Same as P28 but has a Knock Board
      • P72 – Same as P30 but with IAB control
      • P75 – Same as P72 but with no Knock Board or VTEC control

      Board Revision

      The only reason that the board revision is typically of interest is when you are attempting to add components like a VTEC conversion kit.

      The board revision can be found silkscreened onto your ECU:

      This is a 11F0 board

      This is a 11F0 board

      USDM/JDM

      The only time you need to worry about whether your ECU is UDSM or JDM is when selecting which chip kit to purchase. JDM ECUs require slightly different chips than their USDM counterparts, so make sure you select the right one when you order.

      USDM (Rectangular)
      USDM (Rectangular)
      JDM (Square)

      JDM (Square)

    • Honda Kit
    • The Honda chip kit contains all the components necessary to put a chip in your OBD I Honda ECU.

      There are two varieties of this kit, the USDM and JDM versions. JDM ECUs are smaller square ECUs that require surface mount components. The USDM ECUs are rectangular and use standard thru-hole components.

      This kit also comes with a replacement capacitor for the 200uF cap that is known to go bad in these older ECUs.

      Compatibility

      This kit is compatible with the following ECUs:

      • P28
      • P30
      • P72
      • P75
      • P05
      • P06
      • P08
    • Honda Overview READ ME!
    • Only certain Hondas can be tuned using our hardware. In short, these are any vehicles that run a B, D, H, or F (Accord) series engine with a distributor and can run an OBD I ECU. Whether they accept these ECUs natively or via an OBD II to OBD I or OBD0 to OBD I conversion harness makes no difference.

      Some of the OBD0 (pre-92) vehicles can be chipped and tuned natively, but the OBD I software tools are so much more advanced and user friendly that it is worth considering converting these vehicles to OBD1 with a conversion harness when possible.

      If you have a 1996-2001 Honda, you will need to remove your stock OBD2 ECU and plug-in a supported OBD I ECU via a conversion harness. Please make sure you order the appropriate harness for your car as different model years used different connectors.

      Supported Vehicles

      • 1992-2000 Civic (1996-2000 Civics require OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, use 92-95 OBD1 ECU)
      • 1992-2001 Integra (1996-2001 Integras require OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, use OBD1 ECU)
      • 1992-2001 Prelude/Accord (1996-2001 Preludes require OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness, requires Integra or Civic OBD1 ECU swap, )
      • 1988-1991 Civic/CRX Si-HF or swapped cars (can use OBD1 ECU and OBD1 tools with OBD1/OBD2 distributor swap and conversion harness)
      • 1988-1991 Integra/CR-X/Civic with B16A swap (requires PR3/PW0 ECUs to use as OBD0 Vtec)
      • 1990-1991 Civic/CRX Si D16A6 (will have PM6 ECU, ready to use as OBD0 non-vtec)
      • 1988-1989 Civic/CRX Si, 1988-1991 CRX HF (requires use of a 90-91 ECU to use as OBD0 non-vtec)

      Supported ECUs

      • 1992-1995 Civic (P05 | P06 | P08 | P28)
      • 1994-1995 Del Sol VTEC (P30)
      • 1992-1995 Integra GS-R (P61, P72)
      • 1992-1995 Integra RS/LS/GS/SE (PR4 | P74 | P75)
      • 1992-1995 JDM Civic, Integra, Del Sol, etc. (P30, P72, P54, P08, etc. small square case. Place note in order!!! JDM ECUs require different parts than USDM)
      • Chippable OBD-0 ECUs (PW0 | PR3 | PM6)
      • see also pgmfi wiki on the subject

      Note: If you do not see your car or ECU specifically listed here, please check to make sure you do not have an unsupported setup before purchasing anything!

      Supported Tuning Software

      • Neptune (targets primarily 92-95 OBD1 ECU hardware, very actively developed, advanced feature set, per-vehicle licensing)
      • eCtune (targets primarily 92-95 OBD1 ECU hardware, starting to be poorly maintained, advanced feature set, per-vehicle licensing)
      • CROME Pro (targets OBD1 ECUs, supports datalogging, getting to be poorly maintained, great for “simple” tunes, flexible licensing)  There is a very nice PDF tutorial written up by Darren Kattan. Check it out by clicking HERE.
      • CROME (as above, free but without datalogging support)
      • BRE (Primarily targets OB0 Vtec computers: PR3, PW0. Also has limited support for PM6. Only recommended for “simple” setups. Not very actively supported)
      • TurboEdit (Primarily targets OBD0 non-vtec computers, i.e. PM6. Only recommended for non-vtec engines and very simple setups. Not very actively supported)
      • Uberdata (Older application. Targets OBD1 platform. Once thought to be dead but seems to be some recent development activity)
      • FreeLog (Free, datalogging package, works with Crome, not heavily supported/updated.)

      Software Recomendations

      The only one of our kits that comes with software is the Demon+Neptune kit.  The Honda Tuning Kit is sold as a hardware only solution.  We recommend Xenocron.com for purchasing any software not included with your kit.  Xenocron sells both Neptune and CROME.

      If you have a “serious” setup (i.e. something that you’ve put a couple thousand dollars into) and you want a package with “serious” support behind it you are pretty much limited to Neptune.

      Crome works some of the time, but unless you’re a developer and want to go and fix the numerous small problems it has, you won’t get much help.

      If you are looking for something free to make basic changes to your car, Crome or Uberdata is probably worth trying. You can download versions of both software for free.

      The OBD0 packages (BRE, TurboEdit) are fine for “simple” setups (figure stock map sensor, 450cc injectors, redline at stock or lower, etc.) but when you start pushing things further from stock their immaturity starts to show.

      The information in this section represents the opinions of Dave Blundell as of 7/2/12. As you learn more, you might come to disagree with some of what is posted here and that is fine – these are just recommendations for beginners based on years of working with all the packages listed.

      Additional Information

      PGMFI.org will have lots of answers for you and probably make your head want to explode if you spend too much time there. Both the forum and wiki are loaded full of useful information, but the forum in particular can be very hard to find things. Use the search function lots.

      OBD1 Civic/Integra ECUs are a common hardware platform. Despite the many different models of ECU (P05, P06, P28, P30, P72, etc.) Honda only used 3 different circuit boards in the US. This means that it is very easy to use an ECU designed to run one engine to run another. JDM ECUs use different parts for chipping and modification than US ECUs. Most JDM ECUs use primarily surface mount components while USDM and European ECUs use primarily through-hole components.

      Moates Hardware for Honda ECUs

      Demon+Neptune – Demon hardware with a Neptune RPT license included.  Arguably the best solution available for tuning OBD1 Hondas.  Realtime tuning, datalogging, onboard logging based on trigger conditions without a laptop connected, great software.  Ideal bundle for enthusiasts looking to tune their own vehicle.

      D2 Socket – standard 28 pin socket. Used for chipping pretty much all ECUs covered on this page. Part of other kits, too. Only thing needed for chipping OBD0 ECUs. Included as part of the Honda Chipping Kit.

      S4 Aries Low Profile ZIF Socket – low-profile (smaller) ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket commonly used to make it easier to take chips in and out of an ECU quickly. Not essential by any means, but certainly nice. Included as part of the Honda Chipping Kit.

      C2 SST 27SF512 Chip – This is *the* chip you will use if you are working with Hondas, unless you know better. Buy this if you want spare chips. Included as part of the Honda Chipping Kit.

      ‘373 latch – 74HC373 octal latch. Required for OBD1 ECUs to talk to an external EPROM. Included as part of the Honda Chipping Kit.

      C14 Cap – 220uF Electrolytic capacitor. Replaces a capacitor that is part of the power supply for the ECU. This capacitor is known to leak and go bad, blowing a hole that usually causes other damage in your ECU. Included as part of the Honda Chipping Kit.

      CN2 latching header – this is used for datalogging. designed to latch and lock with the cable we supply with the Hondalog/HULOG. Normally included as part of the Honda Chipping Kit.

      CN2 Straight header – this is used for datalogging. does not latch/lock the cable we supply. Basic, no frills.

      Honda Chipping Kit – This kit includes everything you need to chip ONE OBD1 Honda ECU. Includes regular machine pin socket, low profile ZIF socket, 373 latch, caps, resistor, locking CN2 header and one chip. You must specify if you are using a USDM or JDM ECU! This is very important!

      Install Service – don’t feel up to installing a Honda Chip Kit? Let us do it

      Chip Extender – This device allows you to mount your chip away from the ECU. Usually works with Ostrich, switchers and other gizmos.

      Two Timer – Allows you to program two independent programs into a 27SF512 chip and switch between them arbitrarily. Basic setup for multiple programs.

      GX switcher – requires the Ex switcher. Allows selection from up to 16 programs programmed into a 29F040 chip. Advanced setup for multiple programs.

      If you have a NON-VTEC ECU (PR4 | P05 | P06 | P75) and you wish to run a VTEC motor, please purchase the appropriate VTEC Upgrade kit for your ECU under the chip kit section. Each circuit board is labelled with a part number in white silkscreen lettering towards the top-center section of the board. Match this up with each of the three kits we sell. 1720 11F0 1980

      PWM Boost control kit – Allows an ECU using eCtune / Neptune / Hondata to act as an PulseWidth Modulated (PWM) boost controller. Will not work with Crome or OBD0 solutions at this time. (alternative method for eCtune ONLY uses 5151 and sometimes an 810 Ohm resistor)

      BURN2 – The BURN2 replaces the BURN1 and is functionally identical. The BURN2 burner is the weapon of choice for all things Honda that we support. You will use it to program chips

      Ostrich 2.0 – The Ostrich2 allows flawless real-time changes to be made while the vehicle is running.

      Hondalog / Xtreme HULOG – The Xtreme HULOG is a Hondalog in a durable plastic case for $5 more. They are functionally identical. They allow datalogging from ECUs that have an appropriate program and a CN2 header installed

      Honda Tuning Package – This is the Xtreme HULOG, Ostrich 2.0, Burn2 and a Honda Chip Kit bundled together for savings. It includes all the hardware you need to get started. Same great stuff, cheaper price as a package. Simply buy additional Honda Chip Kits to tune additional vehicles.

    • Honda Tuning with Crome
    • This is a very nice PDF tutorial written up by Darren Kattan. Check it out by clicking HERE.
    • HuLog/HondaLog
    • The HuLog, HondaLog, and Xtreme HuLog are USB datalogging adapters that are used to datalog Honda ECUs.

      Functionally the devices are identical, however the HuLog/Xtreme HuLog come in ABS plastic enclosures for protection.

      Also, the Xtreme HuLog will retain its COM port assignment regardless of what USB port is used.

      Tips and Tricks

      To achieve maximum performance out of this device (and all Moates devices) we recommend setting the latency timer to 1 ms. This can be changed in Windows XP by using the following procedure:

      1. Control Panel
      2. System
      3. Hardware
      4. Device Manager
      5. Ports (COM and LPT)
      6. USB Serial Port (COMx)
      7. Port Settings
      8. Advanced
      9. Latency Timer

      Compatibility

      The HondaLog/HuLog is compatible with:

      • CROME Pro
      • eCtune
      • Neptune

      How to Buy

      Please visit the Xtreme HuLog’s page in our website here

      3 Basic rules for using HULOG/Hondalog

      1. ECU Must be chipped.  Properly.  Software must be installed in the chip WHICH MATCHES THE SOFTWARE ON YOUR PC.  Different versions of software on the PC can require different modifications to bin/chip.  Yes, upgrading your PC software can break logging until you “upgrade” the software in your chip, too.
      2. There is no plug n play for this stuff.  Even if the drivers are installed automatically by Windows, software on your PC MUST BE CONFIGURED MANUALLY to match the hardware you are using and the modifications done to the bin/chip.  There are several incompatible options and you must have the SAME on both the chip and your PC.
      3. J12 (US/EU/big case) or J4 (JDM/small case) is required to be removed for all known aftermarket software
    • HULOG/HondaLog Installation
    • Hulog/Hondalog

      Installation of Honda-Based USB Datalogging Tools

       

      There are two tools available for datalogging on Honda ECUs from www.moates.net and they include the HULOG and the HondaLog.

      HULOG: The HULOG comes in a plastic enclosure and ONLY requires a pin swap if it is an older unit. All the new units come with 1:1 connector pinning, so will differ from the pictures shown in that no pin swap is required or will be present on the extension cable. It can be mounted externally or internally, depending on whether you want to pass the 4-pin header cable or a USB cable out of your ECU.

      HondaLog: The HondaLog can be mounted directly to the ECU with no interconnecting cable It can also be mounted at the end of a 4-pin tether cable. Either way, no pin swap is required (note color of wires and their order in the pictures). The unit is shipped with two pinning options in terms of the attachment header. It also comes with a piece of shrink-wrap tubing in case you want to ‘wrap that rascal’ when you’re done. Either way, it goes to your USB cable and PC on the other end.

      Pictures are shown below for the two units. The installation header is a 4-pin latching unit, and comes with the moates.net Honda Chipping Kits. You can alternatively use a 4-pin 0.025″ square-post breakaway header. Please take note of the directionality of the latch on the interconnecting cable though, since that is critical.

      HULOG Pictures



      HondaLog Pictures



    • Instructions and Manuals
    • Go here:
       
       
      There's a variety of information there. It's set up so you can add your own comments, so please do!
       
      Also, look at the very top of the current display page.
      You'll see the word "DOCUMENTATION".
      Click on that and you'll be taken to a list of additional documentation and guides which we have.
      Look through, and you should be able to find something which is helpful.
       
      .
    • Jaybird
    • The Jaybird

      The Jaybird

      Overview

      The Jaybird is a USB based device used ONLY for loading tunes onto F3 adapters.  It is designed to be the simplest and cheapest solution for programming J3 style Ford chips.  It cannot program other chips.

      The Jaybird CANNOT READ STOCK ECMs!!! If you require this functionality, you need to get BURN2+F2A+F2E instead.

      Software

      This device can be used directly from TunerPro RT, EEC Editor, Binary Editor software packages as well as the Flash-n-Burn dedicated programmer software.

    • Live Support Session
    • If you would like a 'live' technical support session, where we can take control of your computer remotely to help you walk through  troubleshooting or tutorial exercises, please make arrangements via email or phone in terms of schedule. A high-speed 'wired' internet connection is preferred for these sessions.
       
      You will need to click on the link below to 'Save File' and then 'Run' the associated program:
       
      After that, you will be prompted to "Allow shared control of your computer". Do this, and we can take the wheel to help you!
       
      If you get a message such as  'not available', then you need to speak with us first to be sure we're scheduled and ready for you.
       
      Once you have finished, you can click on the 'X' button in the session manager and remove the file from your computer entirely. Many thanks to our partners at www.dp-tuner.com for helping to provide this service!
    • Live Support Session Support
    • Do not try and start a remote session with us unless you are talking to us on the phone or have made an appointment for us to expect you.  If you get a message such as  ‘not available’, then you need to speak with us first to be sure we’re scheduled and ready for you.

      If you would like a ‘live’ technical support session, where we can take control of your computer remotely to help you walk through  troubleshooting or tutorial exercises, please contact us via email ( support@moates.net ) or phone ( 225 341 3547 ).

      A high-speed ‘wired’ internet connection is preferred for these sessions.  We have done them over phones and MiFi devices but it’s usually less useful

      *****
      Our old remote control system is currently down. This page will be updated with specific instructions when we settle on a new solution. In the mean time, please call us.

    • Logging a wideband with TunerPro RT: Ford/QH
    • Logging a wideband in TunerPro RT can be a little complicated because it requires simple algebra and a basic knowledge of how ADCs and widebands work.  While there are a few steps, it’s fairly straightforward.  The steps to do this are going to be virtually identical for all vehicles that TunerPro works with.  This article is going to examine the case of adding a Innovate wideband to a A9L computer but the steps could just as easily be (nearly) the same for using an O2 input on a TPI Camaro.  This article will NOT cover building a datalogging definition from scratch so you will need to start with an ADX that can already log the sensor you want to hook the wideband to, such as EGR or one of the factory O2 inputs.
      First off – some “golden rules” to follow:

      • You should NOT touch the XDF.  All changes will be made on the ADX.
      • You will have to edit the bin/tune before starting this to disable the stock functions that use whatever input you are going to hook your wideband to.
      • Before starting, you should have the manual for your wideband handy with the voltage -> AFR data handy
      • Before starting, you will need to know how the ECU represents analog to digital (ADC) data.  (Most Ford = 10bits, most OBD1 GM = 8bits, Nissan varies by ECU in most cases 10bit)
      • Again, this guide will only cover adding wideband functions.  It will NOT cover creating a datalogging definition.

      In our example, you will have to disable the EGR in the tune before hooking the wideband up or unpredictable things may result.  If you were using an O2 input instead of EGR, you would need to force the ECU into open loop permanently so the O2 sensors are never used for fuel feedback.

      For the remainder of this guide, it will be assumed that you have your ducks in a row and you have the linear wideband voltage output of your wideband hooked to an available, compatible input on your ECU and that you have made any necessary changes to the bin/tune to ensure the ECU does not freak out.

      TunerPro Datalogging Definition Internals

      Before actually going through the steps involved, let’s look at how a value you can datalog happens.

      Fire up TunerPro RT.  Go to the “Acquisition” menu and choose “Load Definition File” and pick a compatible ADX.

      Then, “Acquisition… Edit Definition” and click the + next to “Values”

      tprt adx wideband1
      Next, choose the value that matches wherever you have the wideband hooked up (EGR, O2, etc.)  If the value isn’t yet defined, keep reading but understand that you’ll need to track down all the information that would be on the page.  (This generally involves talking to the person who wrote the definition or getting your hands dirty writing one)

      tprt adx wideband pick a value
      The crucial information on this page:

      • Title (not circled, at top of page) – this is the “name” of the item that you will see in datalogs
      • Unique ID (Blue) – this is a unique identifier for TunerPro.  It has no meaning other than being required to be UNIQUE among all Values you define.  NO DUPLICATES!!!
      • Packet Offset (Red) – this is where the value is located relative to the beginning of a data packet, or group of values retrieved at the same time
      • Source Data Size (Orange) – this is how many bytes TunerPro should look for in the packet at the Offset for this piece of data.  Note: this may be different from how the ECU represents the data unless the ECU is also using a byte or multiple of a byte sized chunk.

      Signed/LSB (Green) – this is information about how the data is represented.  This needs to be correctly configured for the data item by whomever wrote the ADX.

      After taking note of these values, click the “Conversion” tab (Circled in Yellow in above picture)

      tprt adx wideband value conversion
      The conversion tab controls how TunerPro gets from the “raw” value that you’ve specified on the “General” tab with the Offset, Size, Data type and changes it into the value you actually see.  At the top, the “Equation” visible defines the math relationship between the raw data and what you actually see.  You can click the ‘Set’ button to change the equation.

      You can also specify a transfer function for further conversion of data by looking up raw data within the transfer function to get a result.  This is most often used for things like Air Temperature sensors which have an extremely non-linear output that is hard to fit with a formula.  We are NOT going to cover this further but you should be aware of this function should you have a wideband with non-linear output.

      At this point, you’ve seen behind the scenes of how TunerPro handles data logging.

      Configuring Wideband Logging

      After having a brief tour of behind the scenes of TunerPro logging, you should still be really confused about how exactly to log a wideband.  There are several ways to get a wideband outputting a 0-5v signal to work with TunerPro:

      • Edit the existing item corresponding with where the wideband is physically hooked up to use a formula that matches the scale of the wideband.  This essentially “deletes” the original senor and permanently changes it to wideband readings.
      • Create a “duplicate” item with a new unique ID that uses the same Offset, Size, Data type as the value corresponding with where the wideband is physically hooked up.  Createa formula to match the output of the wideband.  The original sensor AND the new wideband value will both be available.
      • Create a new item with a unique ID that has nothing defined in the data packet but instead uses a linked input where the input is the existing channel data where the wideband is hooked up.  The original sensor AND the new wideband value will both be available.

      There are advantages and disadvantages to each of these approaches.  There isn’t just one “right” way of doing things.  Instead of trying to cover everything, we are going to cover creating a “duplicate” item because this method allows us to work with the raw sensor data when building formulas.  Arguably, this is one of the better ways of handling things because you start with RAW data from the ECU, before it has been wrung through god only knows what other formulas.   In the interest of keeping things simpler, we are going to assume that the wideband is putting out a *linear* output.  The original sensor AND the new wideband value will both be available.

      Now, it’s time to gather some information:

      • Raw datalogged ECU value at 0V input
      • Raw ECU value at maximum input voltage
      • ECU maximum input voltage
      • Number of steps in ECU’s ADC.
      • Wideband AFR value at 0v
      • Wideband AFR value at maximum output voltage
      • Wideband maximum output voltage

      You should be able to consult documentation to find “theoretical” values for most of these.  (Note: reality is a bitch and you may need to further tweak “literature” values).  It is generally a good guess that a raw logged value of “0” corresponds with 0 volts.  It is a good guess that the largest number able to be represented by the ADC of your ECU corresponds with 5 volts.  i.e. for a 10 bit ADC, 2^10 = 1024 but we start counting at 0 not 1 so 1023 is the maximum value.  For a 8 bit ADC, 2^8 -1 = 255.  Almost all widebands specify their AFR output at 0V and 5V but you should still carefully pay attention to how these values are specified.

      At this point, it’s simple algebra…  Y = mX + b

      1. Calculate Wideband AFR range. (Wideband AFR max – Wideband AFR min).  This gives you “rise”
      2. Calculate Wideband voltage range. (Wideband spec max volts – Wideband AFR min). This gives you “run” and is usually “5.0”
      3. Calculate the ADC voltage range.  (Subtract the max ADC voltage from the minimum ADC voltage)  This is usually “5.0”
      4. Calculate the change in AFR per raw ADC tick by dividing the result from #1 by the ADC value range that the ECU can generate (i.e. 1023, 255, 4095, etc.)
      5. Calculate the corrected AFR per tick, if necessary.  If the values from #2 and #3 are not the same (common on Nissan – 5.12v max not 5.0v), you will need to multiply the AFR per ADC tick (#4) by Wideband Voltage Range (#2) divided by ADC Voltage range (#5)
      6. The equation to plug in to TunerPro to convert raw data will be (X * Corrected AFR/tick) + (AFR at 0 volts)

      Concrete Example: A9L with Innovate MTX-L

      In this case, we’re going to pretend that we are using an Innovate wideband with a A9L ECU.  First off, we need to create a “clone” of the channel we are going to hook the wideband to, in this case EGR Valve Position.  Look at the original:

      tprt adx evp and new

      Next up, we need to click “Add New Item” (circled in Red) to make a new item and fill it out with the same information as the original EGR Valve Position but with a DIFFERENT unique name.  In this example, you can see I chose a meaningful title (i.e. the name of the item you’ll see in a list while logging) and a minimal description:

      tprt adx wideband clone2

      In order to figure out how to set up the ‘Conversions’ tab, we need to do math.  Going back to the previous section, our answers to the important questions are something like this (with an explanation of how we know in parentheses):

      • ECU value at 0v = 0 (good guess)
      • ECU value at maximum input voltage = 1023 (10 bit ADC maximum value, knowledge of ECU hardware)
      • ECU maximum input voltage = 5.0 V (good guess, knowledge of ECU hardware)
      • Wideband value at 0v = 7.35 AFR gasoline (page 4 of MTX-L manual)
      • Wideband value at maximum output voltage = 22.39 (page 4 of MTX-L manual)
      • Wideband maximum output voltage 5.0v

      Armed with this information we can do math:

      1. Max AFR – Min AFR = AFR range.  22.39 – 7.35 = 15.04
      2. Wideband Max spec voltage – Min spec voltage = Wideband volt range.  5V – 0V = 5V
      3. ADC Max spec voltage – ADC min spec votlage = ADC volt range. 5V – 0V = 5V
      4. AFR/tick = 15.04 / 1023 = 0.0147018572825024
      5. Result #2 and result #3 are the same so no further correction is required
      6. Equation for TunerPro RT = (X * 0.0147018572825024) + 7.35

      tprt adx conversions equation

      Phew.  Save.  Go log your minty fresh wideband.

      Reality Bites

      As was mentioned earlier, reality can often differ considerably from how things “should” be.  So far, you’ve only managed to configure TunerPro for how things “should” be.  Analog to Digital Converters are plagued with issues that affect accuracy.  (Most of them can be solved/greatly improved in the analog realm by having the ECU and Wideband grounded at the same location.)  However even with the best of installs, it’s still very common for things to not end up quite as they are supposed to.  Fortunately, there are a few simple things that you can do to try and increase accuracy:

      1. The first step is going to be to make a data item for the ADC channel the wideband is connected to that displays the “raw” channel value – this can be done by changing the item’s formula to simply “X” with no further math.
      2. Next, try to get the wideband to display the LEANEST mixture (i.e. maximum AFR) that it possibly can.  This can usually be accomplished by letting the sensor hang in free air.  When the wideband is pegged lean at its maximum voltage output, observe the raw ADC reading for the channel it is hooked up to and the reported AFR of the wideband.  It is not uncommon for the voltage from the wideband to fall a few tenths of a volt (and corresponding ADC tick difference) short of the theoretical maximum voltage.
      3. Next, try to get the wideband to display the RICHEST mixture (i.e. minimum AFR) that it possibly can.  This can usually be accomplished by flooding the sensor tip with a torch (doesn’t have to be lit), CO2 / argon bottle, etc. to displace ALL oxygen.  When the wideband is pegged rich to its minimum voltage output, observe the raw ADC reading for the channel it is hooked up to and the reported AFR of the wideband.  It is NOT uncommon to see a couple tenths of a volt (and the corresponding ADC ticks) in the form of a ground offset.
      4. Compute the difference between the observed minimum and maximum ADC values.  It will likely be less than the “theoretical” maximum, i.e. 255, 1023, 4095, etc.  Re-calculate the slope based on (Displayed AFR Max – Displayed AFR min) / (observed ADC max – observed ADC min)
      5. This process boils down to the same thing as the “paper” version above but instead of making assumptions about how things “should” be you are taking measurements of how they really are.  Using “real” values versus theoretical values can often make the values you log match more closely with the values on the gauge.
    • Moates Dealers – Ford
    • When Moates.net started, virtually all of our customers were people buying the tools we made for themselves and their own car.  All of our products were shipped blank and tunes were loaded on them by the purchaser.

      Since then, things have changed.  There are a lot of shops and tuners out there that are using our products to tune their customers’ cars.  There are a lot of people that are looking for the results that our products can deliver without necessarily having any interest in learning to tune cars themselves.  On this page, you can find a list of shops, tuners and people that use our products for tuning cars where you should be able to get a tune together with Moates hardware.

      When you purchase a Ford Dealer Package from our website, you will be added here automatically.  Existing customers that have purchased at least $1000 of Ford product in the past 12 months can obtain dealer status by simply emailing support@moates.net with a request.

      Important Note

      The individuals and shops on this page are not vetted or screened by Moates.net in any way.  The only qualification for being listed here is to have purchased the requisite materials and given us contact information.   Please do not interpret those listed here as being qualified or endorsed.  You should do your own homework before seeking the services of individuals on this page.  Think of this as craigslist not angieslist. 🙂

      USA

      Alabama/Birmingham – Blake Fondren – Avid Speed – Blake@AvidSpeed.com – https://www.facebook.com/avidspeedal  205-514-0385

      California/Hayward – Matthew Mar – Nextgen Autosport – matthew.mar@nexgenautosport.com 510-538-8088

      California/Martinez – KC Gager – BRG Racing – www.brgracing.com – kc@brgracing.com – 925-680-2560

      Colorado/Denver – Garry Vance – TheEFIguy@gmail.com

      Colorado/Littleton – Eddie Giannini – Elite Performance and Tuning – eliteperformanceandtuning@gmail.com / (720) 229-0331

      Florida/Jacksonville – Tony Gonyon – Tuners Inc. tony@tunersinc.com

      Florida/Miami – Alexis Chaviano – Grudge Performance – Grudgeperformance@gmail.com (305) 764-4979

      Florida/Ocala – Steve Hulett – Drag Radial Performance pontisteve@earthlink.net

      Idaho / Idaho Falls – Danny Baird – Baird Racing Engine + Chassis – www.bairdracing.com  danny@bairdracing.com – 208-589-2177

      Illinois/Arlington Heights – D Mark Performance – dmarkperformance@yahoo.com / (847)-621-2265

      Kansas/ Junction City – Jeremy Gilbert – Revolution AutoWorks http://www.revolutionautoworksks.com  

      revolution_autoworks@yahoo.com

      Kentucky/Marion – William Watson – Watson’s Dyno Services – watsonsdyno@yahoo.com / www.watsonsdynoservices.com

      Maryland – JPC Racing – www.jpcracing.com  customerservice@jpcracing.com / 410-729-0005

      Michigan/Plainwell – Tyler @ Force Engineering force-eng@hotmail.com / 269-685-6668

      Mississippi/Florence – Kyle Rigdon – Speed Productions LLC www.speedproductions.net

      New Hampshire/Hudson – Alex Wohlwend – Granite State Dyno and Tune LLC – www.dynonh.com  alex@dynonh.com / 603-886-0827

      New York/Rochester – Adam Marrer – Pops Racing  adam@popsracing.com www.popsracing.com

      North Carolina/Grifton – Ed Abbott – Powerhouse Performance – lawrenceabbott958@gmail.com / (252) 524-0950

      Ohio/Cincinnati – Dave Blundell accelbydave@gmail.com

      Ohio/Cleves – Adam Maurer – adam@sandmmotorsports.net www.sandmmotorsports.net

      Ohio/Galloway – Brian Turner – Dyno Tune Motorsports – www.dynotunemotorsports.com

      https://www.facebook.com/DynoTuneMotorsports/ / (614) 778-8984

      Pennsylvania/Perkasie – Bill Hunsberger – Second Street Speed – www.secondstreetspeed.com / billsecst@verizon.net (215) 257-3724

      South Carolina/Greer – Ted Jenkins – Tuning Innovations – www.tuning-innovations.com tedjenkins@tuning-innovations.com (800) 868-3231

      South Carolina/Travelers Rest – Joseph Davis – East Coast Motorsports – pgmfielf@gmail.com / (864) 610-6160

      Texas/Leon Valley – Art Barrera – Performance HQ art@performancehqtx.com www.performancehqtx.com (210) 549-4242

      Texas/Dallas-Ft. Worth – Andy Moye – Prime Tuning sales@prime-tuning.com www.prime-tuning.com

      Texas/Houston – Two Brothers Automotive www.twobrosauto.com sales@twobrosauto.com (832) 224-4998

      Virginia/Roanoke – Willie Lynch – Dirty Dirty Racing – dirtydirtyracing@yahoo.com www.dirtydirtyracing.com 540-875-8722

      Washington/Kennewick – Francisco Nava – In Tune Shack – intuneshack@gmail.com www.intuneshack.com 509-302-1345

      Washington/Seattle – Brad Seibold – Brad’s Custom Auto – bradscustomauto@comcast.net  http://bradscustomauto.com/

       

      Australia

      Victoria/Waurn Ponds – Matthew Branch / Bullet Performance Racing www.bpracing.com.au

       

      Canada

      Ontario/Brantford – Jay Misener / Misener Motorsports www.misenermotorsports.com / (888) 757-1201

      Ontario/Milton – Paul Gaspar / Steeda www.steeda.ca / www.facebook.ca/steeda.ca Info@steeda.ca / 1866STEEDA7 / 905-693-1817

      Quebec/Ste-Luce – Dave Ross / Dross Autosports www.garagelpross.com drossautosports@hotmail.com

       

      New Zealand

      Hamilton – Tristram Snowdon / Power by EEC eb1falcon@gmail.com

       

      South America

      Europe

      Africa

    • Moates hardware works with TTS Datamaster
    • Our products (AutoProm, ALDU1) work with TTS Datamaster.  We do not sell TTS Datamaster – this page is provided for informational purposes only.  For more information, please see Datamaster’s website.

    • Moates hardware works with TunerCat OBD1 Tuner
    • Our OBD1 tuning products ( AutoProm, ALDU1+CABL1, BURN2, Ostrich) will work with CATS OBD1 Tuner.  We do not sell this package – this page is provided for information purposes only.  For more information, visit TunerCat.com

    • Moates.net Philosophy (READ ME)
    • We are a small technically-oriented outfit that focuses on product development not fancy packaging, phone support, and marketing.  We bring you high-quality, value-priced products aimed at self-starters willing to read documentation, learn independently and most importantly try things on their own without someone providing guidance every step of the way.

      About Moates.Net and our products:

      It is important for you, our users, to understand what we expect of you and what we aim for in our products.  Our philosophy at Moates.Net is simple: we want to bring enthusiasts the highest quality products for tuning their cars at a reasonable price.  What we mean by “enthusiasts” is simple: people who are motivated to learn about tuning their car.  It doesn’t matter whether you’re working on your own car or work for a shop – if you’re willing to learn about tuning a car, you are part of our target audience.

      Our objective isn’t to make a fortune – there are plenty of companies out there that sell comparable products for a whole lot more.  With that said, there are trade offs in our approach.  Our products frequently do not even have boxes, let alone fancy packaging like other vendors.  Our products do not ship with much printed instructions – instead our documentation can be found online.  (Like this support site!)  We devote most of our resources to product development, leaving limited resources for intensive support.  We have chosen instead to provide inexpensive products with fewer frills aimed at a more educated user.

      What We Expect of You

      Here at Moates.Net, education and teaching are things we value highly.   We don’t expect everyone to be born knowing how to tune a car or use our products.  We expect anyone who purchases our products to be willing to READ and learn independently. We will help you if you run into trouble, but we expect you to READ documentation and try to do it on your own first.  We base a lot of the technical documentation and guides we develop on the questions that you ask.  (If you have any suggestions for additional guide topics, we are always willing to listen.)  Many of our activities, such as this support site and our YouTube channel with its video tutorials, are aimed at providing resources to further educate our users.

      If it doesn’t work out…

      Worst case, we have a no questions asked money back guarantee for any parts returned in the condition they were received.  (We can’t issue a full refund for items damaged through neglect, negligence or abuse.)  We hope this isn’t how things end, but you’re only out the cost of shipping and the time you spent trying to figure it out.

    • Neptune RTP
    • Neptune RTP is a tuning hardware/software package for tuning OBD1 Honda and Acura vehicles developed by James Holy at HR Tuning.  Quality hardware, quality software and solid support combine to provide what is arguably the most comprehensive package available for tuning these cars.   More information can be found at the official Neptune site here.  The Neptune RTP software can be downloaded here.

      Hardware Supported

      Currently, the Demon 2 is the only supported hardware for Neptune.  We sell the Demon2+Neptune RTP setup.

      Discontinued Hardware

      If you have discontinued hardware, you can get current production hardware (Demon2) for half off with our trade-in program.  More details here.

      The Demon (or “Demon 1”) is no longer in production and has been replaced by the Demon2.

      Demon1 picture

      Demon1 hardware

       

      The original Neptune RTP board was designed by Moates.  It is no longer in production and has been replaced by the Demon2.

      Neptune Hardware

      Original Neptune RTP Hardware

    • Nismotronic: Incompatible ECUs
    • Lately, there have been several users having issues getting a Nissan ECU with a 20×2 header that looks like it should be compatible with Nismotronic to work.  There are some extremely subtle differences between the ECUs that do and do not work.

      Identifying Problematic ECUs

      All of the ECUs that we have seen so far which do not work are SR20DE ECUs that have the identification “B57-4” printed on their circuit board.

      IMG_20151124_152659852

      Not all of these ECUs are incompatible.  Most have a helper chip that says “260” on them.  These function normally without issue:

      b57good_big

      b57goodclose

      However, a select few of these ECUs have a helper chip that says “280” on them.  These do not currently function with the Nismotronic board AT ALL:

      b57incompat

      Solutions

      At this time, we have no solution for using Nismotronic with ECUs with “280” multi function chips.  The recommended solution is not to use ECUs with the “280” chip.

      This is on our to-fix list but we have no ETA.  We are not yet sure whether hardware will need to be redesigned to accommodate this IC or whether a firmware update will suffice.  In any case, units would need to be returned to home base – this will not be a field upgrade.  This page will be updated as we have more information.

    • Nissan: 20×2 2Chip-64k ROM Board
    • These ROM boards are for Nissans that use a 64k program with a 20×2 header.  These boards require TWO 512k chips such as the C2 SST27SF512 chip that we sell or a 27C512.  They require the same ROM image to be burned into both chips.  They do NOT support switching between ROMs – single program only.  These do NOT work with Nissans that have 32k programs such as red-top S13 SR20DET, S13 KA24DE, etc.  These boards can be used with TWO Ostrich 2.0 emulators for realtime tuning.

      Known Applications:

      • JDM “Zenki” S14a VVTi SR20DET w/ WC ECU
      • 95+ USDM Z32 VG30DETT
      • 94+ USDM J30 VG30

      Pictures:

    • Nissan 20×2 Boards
    • Versions

      This is the documentation for the Nissan Boards.  At this point, there are only one version of the boards, 1.1nm  As future revisions to the board are produced, this page will be updated.

      Applications

      These boards are designed for S13 and B13 applications.  They will NOT work with S14a ECUs that have a 20×2 pin header.  They will not work with late S14/N14/etc. ECUs that have a 40×1 header. Known good applications:

      S13 Silvia RWD “Red top” SR20DET (i.e. 62, E5, etc.) 240 swaps, etc.

      S13 Silvia RWD “Black top” SR20DET NON VVTI (VVTI motors not supported) 240SX, etc.

      S13 240SX KA24DE twin cam engine US Engine

      B13 Sentra FWD SR20DE Sentra, etc.

      U13 Bluebird SR20DET

      About the Board Hardware

      The 20×2 Nissan ROM board has two 28 pin sockets for an EPROM such as a 27SF512 or 27C256.  These are not “even-odd” style boards – chips installed in this board should always have identical programs unless you REALLY know what you are doing.  You will need to buy a ROM burner separately if you do not already have one – this board cannot program chips.

      You can use two Ostriches with this board.  Insert each Ostrich like it was an EPROM.  Make sure JROM is not installed (see below for more) or you may have issues with addressing and Ostriches.  You will need a 5.x version of TunerPro RT to have native dual Ostrich support.  You can accomplish the same thing using TunerPro 4.x by also using EmUtility (available from tunerpro.net in the utilities section) to run one Ostrich in emulation mode while TunerPro natively runs the other Ostrich.

      Switching and JROM

      As previously mentioned, the 20×2 board allows the use of two programs with near instantaneous realtime switching.  The JROM is used to change between two programs when using 512k chips (i.e. 27SF512 or 27C512).  By default, the adapter uses a 32k program from 08000h to 0FFFFh.  When JROM is present, the adapter uses the 32k program from 00000h to 07FFFh.  You can mount an external switch for the jumper if you like.  This link has more information about programming multiple programs and offsets.

      Software support

      This board has no copy protection that would prevent you using it with a particular software package.  The technical answer to “software support” is to say that it will work with any software capable or providing a Nissan binary ROM file.  Software I have tested these boards with:

      • Tuner Pro RT ( www.tunerpro.net )
      • 925style.com ROM Editor ( ask google “925style ROM editor” – original site is down)
      • Nistune

      Just to reiterate – any software that can output a binary file will probably work fine with these boards.

      Installation

      Installation of the Nissan 20×2 boards can be quite tricky.  A proper de-soldering iron is required for good results.

      1. Remove both the top and bottom case from the ECU
      2. De-solder all 40 pins of the 20×2 connector.  remember, a clean de-soldering job is critical to this working correctly.  Be careful not to overheat and burn any traces as this can be easy to do.  When you are done, it should look something like this:
      3. Place the installed pin header in the 20×2 header so that the “notch” in the header faces towards the blue ECU connector:
      4. Solder the 20×2 header in place carefully.  Again, remember clean, accurate soldering is critical for this product to work correctly:
      5. Find the jumper marked “CJ1”  – you will need to remove it and move it to position “CJ2”  as this enables the use of the ROM board.  (Putting the jumper back to CJ1 will enable the use of the stock program.)  Be careful when doing this.  The use of two soldering irons, a soldering iron and de-soldering iron or best yet – a set of SMD tweezers will make things much easier.  If you damage the jumper removing it, do not worry – you can use a small piece of wire or a paperclip instead.  (Trim any excess wire / paperclip if you use this method)
      6. Finally, slide the 20×2 board onto the installed header:
    • Nissan: NEMU hardware install
    • The hardware portion of the NEMU tuning package requires installation in an ECU to be functional.  This install is NOT for beginners, although it is not extremely difficult with the correct tools.  This article will walk you through the install from start to finish with lots of pictures along the way.  If you still have any questions about the install after reading this, please contact us via email.

      Tools

      We are going to use the following tools:

      • Cordless screw gun / drill (recommended) or Phillips screwdriver (required)
      • De-soldering tool with vacuum source (required)
      • Hot-air pencil (recommended)
      • Soldering iron with relatively fine point (required)
      • Extremely fine tipped tweezers (recommended)
      • Pick or extremely small flat head screwdriver (recommended)
      • Wire cutters (recommended)
      • Wire strippers (recommended)
      • Heavy duty snips/cutters, small hacksaw, dremel (recommended)

      Procedure

      1. Remove both the top and bottom case from the ECU.   You will want to have the ECU on a flat surface so you can apply a LOT of downward pressure before you start to turn the screw.  Nissan ECU screws have some kind of threadlocker on them from the factory and it is VERY easy to strip and/or break them.  We highly recommend the use of a screw gun like the one pictured here.
      2. Find the 20×2 connector where NEMU will attach.  Use your De-soldering Iron to cleanly remove the solder from all 20 holes.  Be careful to not overheat the circuit board and burn up a trace.  ( Click herefor a video of a professional using high quality tools to effectively de-solder components.)

         

        Cleanly desolder all contacts of 20x2 header

      3. Remove the 20×2 pin header connector and provided solder from the bag included in your NEMU kit.  Push the pin header through the 20×2 holes in the PCB you just de-soldered.  Make sure the alignment keyway faces INWARDS.

         

        Keyway faces inwards!

      4. Use your soldering iron and the included length of solder to solder all pin connections.

        20x2 header, soldered

        Be careful not to use too much heat, too little heat, too much solder or too little solder.   Click Here for a video of a professional using high quality tools to effectively solder.  Davy Jones’ EEVblog also has a great series of video tutuorials on soldering.  (Part1Part2Part3)

      5. Look at the bottom of the ECU.  Find the surface mount jumper labelled CJ1.  Use your hot air pencil and tweezers to remove and grab it.

        Remove J1

        If you don’t have hot air, you can CAREFULLY use a soldering iron placed parallel to the jumper to melt its solder connections while applying GENTLE pressure to free it from the PCB.

      6. Use your tweezers and soldering iron to re-solder the jumper in CJ2 position instead of CJ1 where it was originally installed.  This enables the 20×2 port instead of stock ECU operation.  If you lose or damage the jumper removing it, you can use a small piece of wire or even a solder bridge.

         

        Solder CJ2 into place

      7. Take your NEMU circuit board out of its protective anti-static bag and gently install it in the shrouded 20×2 pin header that you have just installed.  This is just a temporary install for fitment purposes – you do not need to fully seat the NEMU at this time.  Treat it carefully.
      8. Now find the 4 pin connector with 4- 6″ wires hanging out of it.

         

        4 pin connector with wires

      9. For the sake of tidiness, trim off the black wire as it is not used. (This is not REQUIRED but recommended)

        Datalogging header, ready to install with 3 wires

        Note: the position NOT the color of the wire is important.  If your pigtail has a different color wires, pay attention and pick the wire in the same spot in the connector.

      10. Each of the three remaining wires needs to be soldered to a pin on the blue ECU connector.  The wires provided are much longer than they need to be.  We are going to trim the wires so they are closer to the length necessary.  Plug the 4 pin connector into the NEMU board and then move the three wires to the center of the blue connector for sizing purposes.

         

        Measure...

      11. Make a cut right by the blue ECU connector to get started.  You’ll find that having wires that are almost the right size makes them a lot easier to handle.

         

        and cut!

      12. The red wire is going to get soldered to the ‘top’ pin closest to the center divider on the left side.  Cut it closer to size.  Remember, it’s a lot easier to cut it shorter again than it is to have to solder two wires together to lengthen it!  If in doubt, leave it longer.  Repeat the sizing procedure for the yellow and orange wires.  They will go to the top and bottom pins closest to the center divider on the right side.  See the following picture of how things will look when they’re done: (The colors look a little funny because of lighting – red on left, orange center lower, brown center upper)
      13. After you have sized all 3 wires, gently squeeze the black locking tab on the connector to remove the 4 pin datalogging connector from the NEMU board.  You’ll find the rest of this procedure is a lot easier with the freedom to move around.
      14. Strip about 1/4″ to 1/2″ of insulation off the end of each wire with a pair of wire strippers.
      15. Using the soldering iron, warm up the strands of each exposed metal wire for a few seconds.  After you’ve warmed them up, gently touch some solder to the wire itself NOT the soldering iron.  When it is hot enough, the wire will wick up the solder.  (this is called tinning the wire.  You can see a pro demonstrate here or here )  You just need a little bit of solder – don’t goop it.  Having the wires tinned will make it much easier to attach them to ECU pins.
      16. I prefer to start with the most difficult wire to solder so there aren’t other wires in the way – I personally think this is the lower connection on the right side, with the orange wire.  Before trying to solder this connection, we are going to bend the tinned end into a ‘U’ shape so that it will “hook” on the pin.
      17. Trim the wire so it is quite short.  You don’t need much of a hook for this technique to work effectively.
      18. Hook the orange wire on the lower pin on the right side.  You may find it is helpful to squeeze or even wrap the tinned end of the wire around the pin so that it will stay on the pin without you actually holding it.  Apply heat to BOTH the ECU pin and wire with your soldering iron for at least 3-5 seconds and then apply solder to the area where the pin and wire are touching, NOT the soldering iron tip itself.  This is a little tricky, but hopefully you should get something that looks like this:

         

        orange (rightmost) wire soldered

      19. If you like the hook-and-wrap method, you can use it for the remaining two wires.  I’m going to demonstrate a different method that works equally well, especially because we can reach the pins easier.  Let’s grab the red wire next.  Keep the tinned end straight but trim it so it is a similar size to the pin you are going to be soldering it to.
      20. Bring the trimmed red wire to the pin.  Lay it on top of the pin so that they’re on top of each other.  Apply heat to BOTH the wire and the pin for at least 3-5 seconds, usually by placing the tip of the iron on one side of the pair where it makes equal contact with both the wire and the pin.  Then apply solder where the two are touching, NOT to the soldering iron itself – this is usually done to the opposite side that the iron is touching.  This is a little tricky, but hopefully you’ll end up with something that looks like this:

         

        solid solder connection on red (2nd from right) wire

      21. Repeat the previous two steps for the brown wire, which attaches to the pin above the orange wire to the right of the center divider.  After this, you should have all three wires attached like so: (The colors look a little funny because of lighting – red on left, orange center lower, brown center upper)
      22. Next, we need to modify the case to give the USB cable room to exit.  I used the oval area near where you normally look at the LED to check codes.  I cut the metal case with a large pair of diagonal cutters.
      23. Now would be a good time to firmly install your NEMU board in the 20×2 header and connect the 4 pin black datalogging connector with wires soldered to ECU pins.
      24. Connect the miniUSB->bulkhead cable in your kit to your NEMU board.  For extra safety (i.e. leaving your laptop plugged in and walking off) I generally tie a pretzel knot in the cable immediately before it exits the ECU case so that the knot will absorb any yank or pull.  Use the supplied zip tie to securely attach the USB cable to the case of the ECU. Once you’ve done this, trim the zip tie for tidiness.
      25. If you’re going to be using the extra analog inputs offered by NEMU, repeat the last step with the AuxBox cable.  This cable has a ethernet/phone jack looking RJ45 connector on one end and a small black plastic box on the other.
      26. Re-install the case on the ECU.
      27. Go to www.nismotronic.com for the lastest software download.
      28. Enjoy your product!
    • Nissan: NEMU+Nismotronic Tuning Package
    • The Nemu+Nismotronic Tuning Package is a complete, single-vehicle solution. High-speed datalogging, emulation, onboard storage, and advanced custom ROM options: these features are available nowhere else!

      All the necessary ingredients for a complete turnkey tuning package are included:

      NEMU Emulation and Datalogging Hardware:

      • Installs entirely within ECU, uses a single USB connection for logging and Emulation (No need for a consult cable!)
      • SUPER fast realtime emulation and logging (Uploads and Downloads)
      • 4MB Onboard Logging capacity
      • 4 Analog input channels for viewing any 0-5v sensor input (wideband, map sensor, iat, egt, oil pressure)

      NismoTronic Tuning Software and User Interface:

      • RealTime Tuning and Logging via NEMU RT Boards
      • Onboard Logging via NEMU RT Boards
      • ADC Inputs for Wideband/IAT/ETC via NEMU RT Boards
      • User Definable Live Gauges, Graphing, and Monitor Tables
      • AFR Target Table (Target AFR) and Raw Table (Logged AFR)
      • AFR Difference Table (Difference in Logged vs Target AFR in percentage)
      • User Definable MAF curves! (Create your own custom MAF curve and save it into the MAF Data file to use on multiple tune files with just one click!)
      • Intuitive GUI with visual graphing. Tons of quick keys for quickly editing table values. Interactive 2D Graphing.
      • Innovate, AEM, PLX, and SLC Pure Wideband Support
      • Program Auto Update Feature
      • Import/Export Fuel and Ignition tables
      • Export Data Logs to CSV format for viewing in other programs (EXCEL, Virtual Dyno)

      TunerCode VN5 Advanced ECU Firmware:

      • High RPM tuning limit (8012.5 rpm) removed.
      • Single-Table Fuel and Timing Maps.
      • Choice of soft cut or hard cut rev limits. Launch Control. Overboost rev limiter.
      • Soft cut Speed Limit (Can be disabled or set for valet mode)
      • Programmable A/C Compressor and radiator Fan controls.
      • Knock and Dwell control. Startup fuel and timing.
      • Accel, TPS, and CLT Enrichment. Injector size specification.
      • Decel Fuel Reduction, Idle fuel/timing, Fuel Cut control
      • Enable/Disable: Knock Analysis, Closed Loop O2 Analysis, Long Term Fuel Trim (self-learn), TPS fuel map load column contol, EGR, AIV, O2 Sensor Heater, A/C Compressor, etc.
      • Spark cut limiting, in addition to fuel cut limiting.
      • Set Launch uses throttle, tach., and gear shift to set launch rev limit
      • Programmable Outputs (5 trigger parameters, VVL, NOx, Fans, etc.)

      Visual Tour

      NEMU Package, in the box (click to enlarge)

      Box contents: NEMU Unit, Hardware for installation in ECU, Breakout box and cable for extra inputs/outputs, USB bulkhead cable setup with mounting hardware.

      NEMU installed in ECU, with one of our NISSAN2CHIP ROM boards sitting side-by-side for size comparison.

      Nismotronic software screenshot

      Troubleshooting

      (Under construction)

      Documentation

      (Under construction)

    • Nissan Overview
    • Many Nissans can use our tools to reprogram their factory ECUs.

      Types of Nissan Computer

      Trivially chippable Nissans fall into several categories:

      28 Pin EPROM (VG30DETT 300ZX Twin turbo, KA24E 240SX, RB26DETT R32 Skyline GTR, …) – If you see a 28 pin EPROM inside the ECU, this is your application.  Ostrich 2.0 works in almost all cases, but many of these applications will require a SocketBooster.

      20×2 ROM Board “S13” (SR20DET Silvia/240, SR20DE Sentra, SR20DET GTiR, etc.) If you see a spot on the edge of the circuit board with two rows of 20 pins, this is probably the application.  (also see below S14a)  The Nissan 20×2 Adapter board is intended for this generation.  Two Ostrich emulators can be used for realtime emulation.

      20×2 ROM Board “S14a” (SR20DET “black top” VVTI, 95-97 “B14” Sentra, etc.) If you see a spot on the edge of the circuit board with two rows of 20 pins, this is probably the application.  (also see above S13) These are not supported at this time.  Future hardware may add support.

      40×1 ROM Board (Late model sentra, 240?) If you see a single, extremely long row of pins that are very closely spaced together, this is your application.  These are not supported at this time.  Future hardware may add support.

      Many Nissan ECUs are not trivially chippable (RB25 Neo, R33 Skyline, R34 Skyline, 350Z, …)

      Software

      TunerPro RT has definitions for most S13/B13 platforms.

      925style ROM editor supports most JDM ECUs.  I’ve used sucessfully with S13 SR20DET and R32 GTR Skyline.  It isn’t officially available anymore but you can find it easily with google.

      CROME is compatible with certain Nissan ROMs, particularly those used in S13 based vehicles.

    • O-Meter
    • Check out the documentation to understand what all this unit can do! Does AFR/Lambda/Universal display, data storage, etc. Fully user configurable through two easy-touch buttons. Available in red (brighter) or blue (not as bright but looks cool!). Blue is a little more because of the parts cost.

      Here is the instruction guide for the O-Meter so you can read about all the features:
      http://osc.moates.net/zips/ometer_guide.pdf

      Here is a video of the O-Meter in action:
      http://osc.moates.net/zips/ometer_1.mpg


      Here are pictures of how to hook up the wiring between the O-meter and the LC-1:
      http://osc.moates.net/images/ometer/wiring/
    • O-Meter Support
    • O-Meter

      The O-Meter’s physical dimensions are 2.500″ x 1.625″ x 0.800″Check out the documentation to understand what all this unit can do! Does AFR/Lambda/Universal display, data storage, etc. Fully user configurable through two easy-touch buttons. Available in red (brighter) or blue (not as bright but looks cool!). Blue is a little more because of the parts cost.

       

      Here is the instruction guide for the O-Meter so you can read about all the features:
      http://static.moates.net/zips/ometer_guide.pdf

      Here is a video of the O-Meter in action:
      http://static.moates.net/zips/ometer_1.mpg

      Here are pictures of how to hook up the wiring between the O-meter and the LC-1:

      http://static.moates.net/gallery/ometer_wiring/

    • OBD1 BMWs – what you need
    • OBD1 BMWs are an example of how our products get used for applications that we never intended.  Loosely speaking, this range of ECU appears to be in the 1985-1995 range. Many of our tools are “generic” chip burning and emulation tools that target a type (or types) of EPROMs and will work with just about any computer that uses the same kind of chip.  Most of these BMW ECUs use either 27C32, 27C256 or 27C512 EPROMs.  These ECUs can be tuned using the same tools that we originally intended for GMs ( G2 0.6″ chip adapter, BURN2, SST27SF512 chip, Ostrich 2.0).  At some point, TunerPro definitions became available for these computers, which opened things up for enthusiasts to more easily tune them.  Someone figured out that the address trace feature of the Ostrich2 could be a useful tool for tuning these vehicles.  And here we are…

      As of November 2014, there is another option available from Renovelo, offering polished commercial tools aimed at a select group of OBD1 BMW ECUs (list), primarily the ‘413 and ‘506 DMEs found in the (approx.) 93-95 “E36” 325i, 525i and M3 vehicles. Moates hardware is used by the package.  The Renovelo offering is considerably better documented and ready-to-use for someone who doesn’t have extensive knowledge of this platform than any of the other “community” supported options, which are often incomplete and totally undocumented.  While vehicle support is certainly limited, it represents the best option for supported vehicles where you’re looking for something that “just works.”

      Disclaimer

      We don’t know much about these applications.  We noticed that a lot of people were using our tools for these vehicles and asked enough questions to figure out what was going on and where the necessary software was coming from.  We aren’t going to be able to give you any help tuning these ECUs.  We aren’t going to be able to give you much help with definitions.  We don’t have any contacts or secrets to help you.  The expertise and recommendations we can give are very much limited to publicly available tools you could probably find yourself with a little creative use of search engines.

      What You Need for ‘413 and ‘506 DMEs

      If you have one of these DMEs, you can either:

      • Contact Renovelo and get commercial grade software for tuning your vehicle
      • Follow the directions below to source community supported tools

       

      What You Need, In General

      Hardware-wise, these ECUs use standard EPROMs.  Most that I’ve seen have a socketed EPROM, meaning that you can remove the chip without having to desolder it from the board.

      • Most early ECUs have 27C32 or 27C64 EPROMs which are 24 pin.
        • Most of our tools are intended for 28 pin EPROMs.  We do not sell tools to erase or reprogram 24 pin chips.
        • To use any of our chip programming tools, you will need to desolder the factory socket and solder in a G2 0.6″ chip adapter, at which point you will be able to use 28 pin chips like the 27SF512
        • You can use the Ostrich2 emulator.  The Ostrich supports native 24 pin operation (with 4 pins of its cable hanging off) and also works with a G2.  You may be able to get away with using the EMUC2806 (6″ cable) instead of the 18″ we normally supply or the SocketBooster 1.0 can be used to ensure reliable operation.
      • Most later ECUs have 27C256 or 27C512 EPROMs which are 28 pin.
        • Most of these ECUs are socketed.  You can remove the factory EPROM and replace it with the 27SF512 we sell using the BURN2 to program it.
        • These ECUs are a direct-fit for the Ostrich2
      • We do NOT offer any tools for datalogging on these ECUs.  A very limited amount of data can be gathered using the “trace” feature of the Ostrich2, which lets you see which data in a ROM is being actively accessed.  There is NO history or logging of trace, only immediate feedback.

      Software-wise, we are only aware of TunerPro RT being used with these ECUs.  TunerPro RT supports the BURN2 and Ostrich2 hardware natively.  TunerPro does NOT work with all vehicles.  You should consult the TunerPro Definitions page to see if an XDF exists for your particular ECU before purchasing any hardware.  We will not be able to help make a definition for your ECU if one does not already exist.


    • OBD1 GM: Checksum Disable
    • The check sum routine is a piece of the ECU code that checks to make sure the program is valid.  When you use the “Save” or “Save As…” commands in TunerPro, TunerPro updates the checksum automatically.  This is why this is not a concern when burning chips – the checksum is updated when you save the bin.   When you are doing real time tuning with the Ostrich or APU1 Autoprom, it is possible to put the ECM in a “fault mode” by making changes with the vehicle running because the checksum routine interprets the changes you have made as a corrupt chip.  In order to avoid this, you have two choices:

      1. Use “Save” or “Save As…” in TunerPro before pressing the “Upload” button so that the checksum gets updated along with any changes
      2. Disable the checksum routine prior to uploading.  Doing so will allow you to use realtime chip emulation and make changes incrementally.

      Checksum Disable Procedure, In General

      The general procedure for disabling the checksum is the same for all OBD1 GM computers:

      1. Locate the chip code mask byte. (This byte will be the same as the mask definition you are using in hexadecimal, i.e. $42 for a 1227747, $8D for a 1227730, $0D or $0E for a 16197427, etc.)  This can be called “Code mask” or “Chip code mask” or any number of things in the XDF – there is no standard.  Some XDFs do not even define this byte at all.  It is generally the 9th byte of the ROM for most 28 pin chip ROMs ( address 0x0008h, 04008h ) or the 5th for most 24 pin applications ( 0x0004h )
      2. Change the code mask from its default value to $AA in hex ( 170 in decimal)

      Specific Example: TunerPro and $0D

      1. Locate the chip code mask byte, verify that it is $0D in stock form:
        $OD Mask stock
      2. Change the value from “$0D” (hex) to “$AA” (hex) :
        $OD Mask no checksum
    • OBD1 GM Commercial Tuners
    • When Moates.net started, virtually all of our customers were people buying the tools we made for themselves and their own car.  All of our products were shipped blank and tunes were loaded on them by the purchaser.

      Since then, things have changed.  There are nore shops and tuners out there that are using our products to tune their customers’ cars.  There are a lot of people that are looking for the results that our products can deliver without necessarily having any interest in learning to tune cars themselves.  On this page, you can find a list of shops, tuners and people that use our products for tuning cars where you should be able to get a tune together with Moates hardware or pay for help tuning Moates hardware you already have.

      If you would like to be listed here, you can do so by simply emailing support@moates.net with a request.  Please include your name and/or business name, how people should contact you (website, email, phone, etc.) at a minimum.

      Important Note

      The individuals and shops on this page are not vetted or screened by Moates.net in any way.  The only qualification for being listed here is that we know they offer tuning services for OBD1 GMs or they’re asked nicely to be listed here.   Please do not interpret those listed here as being qualified or endorsed.  You should do your own homework before seeking the services of individuals on this page.  Think of this as craigslist not angieslist. ?

       

      OBD1 GM Tuners

       

      Colorado/Cotopaxi – Brian Van Schoiack – Tuned Performance – www.tunedperformance.org

      Indiana/Warsaw – Ben Phelps – Wide Open Throttle Technologies – www.wot-tech.com

      Indiana/Waterloo – Sinister Performance, LLC. – www.gmtuners.com

      Minnesota/Chaska –  TPI Specialties – www.tpis.com

      Nevada/Reno: Scott Hansen – Tuned Port Induction Programming Services – www.scotthansen.net

      North Carolina/Randleman: Brian Harris – Harris Performance – www.tbichips.com

      North Carolina/Mooresville: Alvin Anderson – PCM Of NC – www.pcmofnc.com

      Ohio/Cincinnati: Solomon Kostelnik – LT1 PCM Tuning – www.lt1pcmtuning.com

       

    • OBD1 GM: Getting Started
    • This is intended to provide a brief overview of the steps required to get up and running tuning an OBD1 GM vehicle.  It is deliberately vague.  Instead of providing an exhaustive guide here, there are a series of links to smaller tasks and explanations.  94-95 LT1 vehicles are going to be an exception not covered by this guide as they are tuned via reflash only.  See the 94-95 LT1 getting started page for more.  The “What do I need GM” section is going to have basic hardware and software suggestions for groups of vehicles.

      Steps

      1. Install chip adapter.  The particulars of this will depend on which chip adapter you have exactly
      2. Plug in Moates devices to your PC.  With most modern operating systems, FTDI USB drivers should install automatically via Windows Update.  In the event things don’t go smoothly, look at the USB troubleshooting guide.
      3. Download and install tuning software.  TunerCat OBD1 Tuner And TunerPro RT are the usual candidates.  This guide will cover TunerPro RT
      4. Download XDF, ADX as appropriate for the vehicle you are working on.
      5. Read your stock chip using a BURN2 or APU1 to get your stock bin OR download one online that should work
      6. Load appropriate files in TunerPro:
        • XDF first: Select XDF (this is a map of the tables and parameters to edit in a bin)
        • ADX second: Acquisition… Load Definition (this is a guide of how to communicate with the vehicle and retrieve data)
        • BIN third: File… Open (this is the actual file that goes on the chip, in the ECM, running the vehicle)
      7. Configure TunerPro to log:
      8. Get the program you want in the ECM
        • Option A: Burn a chip with the BURN2 / APU1
        • Option B: Realtime tuning
          • With Ostrich2 you will need a SocketBooster for 24 pin applications!
          • 32 pin applications work best with Ostrich2
          • APU1 works for 24 and 28 pin applications with no additional adapters
          • After you have loaded a valid BIN file, disable checksum.  To do this, change the Mask ID from it’s “normal” value (i.e. $8D hex or $6E hex or $0D hex or $42 hex) to $AA (that is “AA” in hexadecimal).  This will allow you to make changes live without angering the computer.  CRITICAL.
          • After you have a checksum-disabled bin, press the blue “up arrow” to load your bin form TunerPro to hardware
          • If you want changes to happen as you make them in TunerPro, click the blue “chip” icon near the arrows to enable or disable emulation.  You should see the status in the lower left change to indicate emulation is active
      9. Start logging.  Click the two arrows pointing away from each other.  If TunerPro can connect, you should see the lower status bar change to say “DA: Connected” along with how fast it is receiving data packets in Hertz.
      10. Tune the vehicle.

      Final Words

      If you have prior tuning experience with other products, you may want to look at this article which discusses the differences between more modern tuning systems and TunerPro RT on OBD1 GM.

      If you don’t have prior tuning experience, you are highly advised to do some serious reading on thirdgen.org’s DIY PROM board and gearhead-efi.com to get up to speed a bit.

    • Ostrich
    • Untitled Document

      Here's how you install the Ostrich:

      1) Get on the website here in the 'software and drivers' section and download and unzip the 'USB Drivers' file. Remember where you put it.

      2) Plug the Ostrich into the USB port of your PC, and point the operating system to the previously located USB Driver directory and install the drivers. See the USB Driver Installation Guides here on osc.moates.net for further guidance in this regard.

      3) Go into the drivers and set the COM port of the USB to Serial Converter (under Ports in the Device Manager of the Windows Control Panel). Set it to COM3 or COM4. Override any warnings against 'port in use' or any of that nonsense. Again, refer to the USB install guides for more info.

      4) While in the port settings, set the latency to '1' (default=16). This will speed it up dramatically.

      5) Use TunerPro RT or a similar program to upload a binary to the Ostrich, and verify that it is uploaded correctly.

      6) Hook it up to the vehicle, and go to town. When installing the ribbon cable where the chip normally goes, orient the red stripe so that it faces where the chip notch or arrow (pin #1) would normally face.

      Note: If you have the car off, and the Ostrich is hooked up to the car's ECU, then sometimes an upload/verify won't work right. Just turn the car on, or disconnect the Ostrich during the initial upload, and everything should be fine.

      There are jumpers inside the Ostrich, depending on how many pins / memory size you are emulating to.
      The following pictures illustrate three different ones: 24, 28, and 32-pin. The 32-pin is only used for Ford EEC-V applications right now.

      24-pin (with associated pictures for an installation where the original chip was a 2732A in a 1227747-style GM ECM):
      Here's the jumper settings, set for 24-pin emulation:

      Here's the socket that is soldered in the ECM. Note the direction of the notch (to the right) indicating where the original chip pin #1 would go:

      Here's one way to do it, first right before insertion and then after it is snapped down in. Really it is preferable to use a ZIF socket here. Notice the 24-pin socket that is stacked onto the bottom of the regular 28-pin emulation cable. You can just use the 28-pin with the extra 4 pins hanging over as well. Note the red stripe toward where the notch would normally go:

      28-pin Installation using the G1 chip adapter, similar to that used in a 1986-92 TPI GM ECM:
      Check out the jumper settings. Note that this is the configuration that the Ostrich is shipped with, and works for the majority of the applications.

      Note the direction of the notch on the chip, despite the direction of the ZIF handle. This is counter-intuitive for many, and is relatively unique to the G1 / TPI-style adapter due to spatial constraints in the ECM housing:

      Now we take the chip out, and put the emulation cable in. Note the red stripe and how it is oriented compared to the notch on the chip that was there before:

      32-pin Jumper Settings, presently only used for EEC-V applications:

    • Ostrich 1.0
    • Rest in Peace

      Rest in Peace

      The Ostrich 1.0, which has now been discontinued, was the first in the Ostrich line. Upon the creation of the first Moates product, the Autoprom (APU1) the team at Moates quickly realized the demand for separation of the Burner/Emulator/Datalogger combo.

      As a result, the Ostrich 1.0 was born.

      Early versions of the Ostrich 1.0 were very basic featuring only a black case.

      Later versions of the Ostrich 1.0 featured a sticker with a very mean looking Ostrich.

      Early revisions of the firmware used 115,200 baud rate. Later revisions (leading up to the Ostrich 2.0) were released featuring the 921,600 baud rate.

    • Ostrich 1 Operation
    • Ostrich

      Here’s how you install the Ostrich:  (Much of this will apply to the Ostrich 2 as well but pictures will be different.)

       

      1) Get on the website here in the ‘software and drivers’ section and download and unzip the ‘USB Drivers’ file. Remember where you put it.

      2) Plug the Ostrich into the USB port of your PC, and point the operating system to the previously located USB Driver directory and install the drivers. See the USB Driver Installation Guides here on www.moates.net for further guidance in this regard.

      3) Go into the drivers and set the COM port of the USB to Serial Converter (under Ports in the Device Manager of the Windows Control Panel). Set it to COM3 or COM4. Override any warnings against ‘port in use’ or any of that nonsense. Again, refer to the USB install guides for more info.

      4) While in the port settings, set the latency to ‘1’ (default=16). This will speed it up dramatically.

      5) Use TunerPro RT or a similar program to upload a binary to the Ostrich, and verify that it is uploaded correctly.

      6) Hook it up to the vehicle, and go to town. When installing the ribbon cable where the chip normally goes, orient the red stripe so that it faces where the chip notch or arrow (pin #1) would normally face.

      Note: If you have the car off, and the Ostrich is hooked up to the car’s ECU, then sometimes an upload/verify won’t work right. Just turn the car on, or disconnect the Ostrich during the initial upload, and everything should be fine.

      There are jumpers inside the Ostrich, depending on how many pins / memory size you are emulating to.
      The following pictures illustrate three different ones: 24, 28, and 32-pin. The 32-pin is only used for Ford EEC-V applications right now.

      24-pin (with associated pictures for an installation where the original chip was a 2732A in a 1227747-style GM ECM):
      Here’s the jumper settings, set for 24-pin emulation:

      Here’s the socket that is soldered in the ECM. Note the direction of the notch (to the right) indicating where the original chip pin #1 would go:

      Here’s one way to do it, first right before insertion and then after it is snapped down in. Really it is preferable to use a ZIF socket here. Notice the 24-pin socket that is stacked onto the bottom of the regular 28-pin emulation cable. You can just use the 28-pin with the extra 4 pins hanging over as well. Note the red stripe toward where the notch would normally go:

      28-pin Installation using the G1 chip adapter, similar to that used in a 1986-92 TPI GM ECM:
      Check out the jumper settings. Note that this is the configuration that the Ostrich is shipped with, and works for the majority of the applications.

      Note the direction of the notch on the chip, despite the direction of the ZIF handle. This is counter-intuitive for many, and is relatively unique to the G1 / TPI-style adapter due to spatial constraints in the ECM housing:

      Now we take the chip out, and put the emulation cable in. Note the red stripe and how it is oriented compared to the notch on the chip that was there before:

      32-pin Jumper Settings, presently only used for EEC-V applications:

    • Ostrich 2.0
    • The meanest emulator known to man.

      The meanest emulator known to man.

      The release of the Ostrich 2.0 was the marking point for the next generation of Moates products. Along with a 75% size reduction, the Ostrich 2.0 also boasts many firmware advances. The Ostrich 2.0 connects to the host computer with a baud rate of 921,600bps, which is the fastest bit rate supported by standard RS-232.

      In English, this means uploads, download and verifies happen in less than 2 seconds for most ROMs.

      There are also some new features for developers available on the Ostrich. Features like ROM tracing, and window tracing allow developers to keep track of what addresses are being access within specific regions of the ROM. This is helpful for reverse engineering roms, and can also aid in datalogging ECUs with limited datalogging capability.

      The following software packages are known to be compatible with the Ostrich 2.0:

      • CROME

      • Hondata (Note: Old “Stage” software before S300 only.  No S300 support)

      • Neptune (Note: DEALER VERSION ONLY!!!  We do NOT sell Neptune software that works with the Ostrich.)

      • eCtune

      • BRE

      • TurboEdit

      • TunerPro

      And many more…

      To purchase the Ostrich 2.0, please see this item in our Online Store here

       

      Environmental Compatibility

       

      The Ostrich is NOT designed to be left in an engine bay!!!  It will fail prematurely if exposed to the heat of a bay.   It is designed for a maximum operating temperature of about 80C (175F).

      The Ostrich is NOT designed to be exposed to moisture!!!  It will fail prematurely if exposed to liquids.  It will fail prematurely from condensation inside its case.

      If you are going to use the Ostrich in harsh environments, try to do so for short periods of time and then program a chip for long term use.  We recommend this in general but it is especially important in harsh environments.

      Due to its internal battery constantly powering portions of the device, the Ostrich can easily be ruined by condensation caused by sudden drops of temperature in humid environments.  Returning the Ostrich to a cool (~50-77F / 10-25C) , dry environment after exposure to high humidity before attempting to use again  is a very good idea.  Placing it in a sealed bag with dry rice or another desiccant can help if condensation is suspected.

       

      Supported Targets – 24, 28, 32 pin 8 bit ROMs

      The Ostrich is a general purpose emulator.  It can be used to emulate up to a 4 megabit ***8 bit*** EPROM.  It cannot be used to emulate 16 bit ROMs like the 28Fxxx.  The Ostrich 2.0  is available with DIP28, DIP32 cables.  The SocketBooster 1.0 is used with 24 pin applications.

      • 27C32 (TBI GMs, Old Bosch Motronic) = 28 pin emulation cable, Socket Booster
      • 27C64 (misc ECMs) = 28 pin emulation cable, Socket Booster
      • 27C128 (misc ECUs) = 28 pin emulation cable
      • 27C256 (misc ECUs) = 28 pin emulation cable
      • 27C512 (misc ECUs = 28 pin emulation cable
      • 27C010 (?) = 32 pin emulation cable
      • 29F040 (?) = 32 pin emulation cable

      We have NOT performed extensive testing to determine the fastest access time for the Ostrich2, but we estimate that it is in the 65-80ns range.  90s is 100% safe.

      In cases where you have a PLCC package chip, you CAN use the Ostrich 2.0 but you need a DIP->PLCC adapter.  We do NOT sell these.  Logical systems seem to sell suitable adapters.


      The SocketBooster and the Ostrich 2.0

      The SocketBooster is never required when using the Ostrich 1.0 but it is required for most 27C32-based applications when using an Ostrich 2.0.  You can think of it as a signal amplifier for the Ostrich 2.0.  In most applications, the Ostrich 2.0 can produce a strong enough signal on its own.  If your ECU acts like it has a bad chip or no chip installed when using the Ostrich but the same program works as a chip, this could be a sign that your application needs a SocketBooster.  (It could also mean that your Ostrich is failing…)  You might ask, “well why don’t you use a SocketBooster all the time?”  Unfortunately, the SocketBooster interferes with the operation of the “trace” feature of the Ostrich.

      This is a list of applications where we have found a SocketBooster to be ABSOLUTELY necessary:

      • 86-93 GM TBI ECMs using a 24 pin 27C32 EPROM

      This is a list of application where we have found a SocketBooster to be necessary in SOME cases:

      • 90-93 Nissan Z32 8 bit ECUs, 90-93 Nissan R32 Skyline 8 bit ECUs.  (By extension, most 8 bit Nissan computers around this age)
      • 90-94 Mitsubishi DSM ECUs

      This is a list of applications where the SocketBooster is 100% NOT needed:

      • 88-95 Honda ECUs
      • 86-95 GM TPI “Memcal” style ECMs
      • Nintendo NES and Gameboy
      • All 32 pin applications

      If you don’t see your ECM listed, email support@moates.net with the particulars of your application.


      About Emulation Bank Setting

      If you enabled the “Emulation Bank” toolbar in TunerPro, there are some additional settings to play with.  Note: the Demon-Ostrich Reset Utility will modify the bank settings, restoring them to a sane setting for 28 pin EPROM use.

      The ‘bank’ is a 64k chunk of memory, which is the maximum amount of data that can be presented using a 28 pin cable. Each bank can be presented independently, so you could have 8 ‘tunes’ if you want.  Switches must be in the 28 or 24 pin operation for this mode to function properly.

      For the 32 pin, the firmware option of setting ‘bank8/full4mbit’ is used. The switches are also positioned. In this mode, all of the memory is addressed and presented.

      Keep in mind that the Ostrich and most software it supports will ‘assume’ that you are placing the values at the highest address range of memory. (Unused address lines are pulled up at the ostrich via 100k.)  If you’re wanting to play with banks and the Ostrich you will need to be very careful of which memory you address.

       

      Power Consumption

      User Jon Sole was kind enough to share this information with us.  Jon measured the Ostrich 2 drawing about 71mA of power with USB disconnected in his application (3S-GTE) versus 16mA with USB connected and supplying power.

      While trying to use the Ostrich on a 3S-GTE platform, Jon discovered that the ECU would freak out and land in limp mode with USB disconnected but run fine with USB connected.  Suspecting that the difference in power draw between an ordinary EPROM and the Ostrich was the culprit, Jon is going to try an provide a secondary 5V power supply for the Ostrich to hopefully allow the Ostrich to be used with USB disconnected without the ECU revolting.


       

      Ostrich Use with PLCC32 Targets

      The Ostrich can be used with PLC32 targets, but we do not sell the necessary adapters.  In most cases, you will need to get the EMU3206 cable we sell so you are starting with a 32 pin DIP.  We have fund these vendors sell adapters that will work for emulation of PLCC32 targets:

       

      Making Your Own Cables

      We recommend you buy a suitable cable from us.  You should not bother reading this section unless you understand how EPROM addressing works and you have a specific need that cannot be met with a cable we already sell.  This is not for beginners.  You are warned.

      Parts can be found here (Page 106: PCI-24, PCI-28. PCI32, IDS-34)

      The pinout of the Ostrich is more or less the same as the chips that it is designed to emulate, viewed from above.  The two switches define the possibilities – 24 pin(2732), 28pin (27C512) and 32pin (AM29F040).

      A very important thing to note is that all pins are live in each mode, i.e. if you are using the Ostrich to emulate a 27C256 in 28 pin mode, you must make sure that the highest address pin (A15, pin 28) present on the 27C512 but missing on the 27C256 is in a defined state by using a pull up/down resistor.  Although the Ostrich has very weak internal pull-ups, allowing pins to float in an undefined state is likely to cause problems.  TunerPro RT and most software typically top-justifies bin files when uploading them to the Ostrich so generally pull UP resistors are going to be what you need.  If your target system has hard pull downs (ground) on “unused” address lines, you will have to either disconnect these lines from the target system and manually pull them high *OR* adjust where in the Ostrich’s memory bins are uploaded to.

      In 32 pin mode, the Ostrich uses 32/34 pins with the same pin numbering scheme as a 29F040:

      Ostrich2 32pin mode

      In 28 pin mode, the Ostrich uses 28/34 pin with the same pin numbering scheme as a 27C512:

      Ostrich 28pin27C512-chip_end

      In 24 pin mode, the Ostrich uses 24/34 pins with the same pin numbering scheme as a 2732:

      Ostrich2 24pin

       

      Data Trace

      The Data Trace feature of the Ostrich 2.0 allows you to observe which data in its memory is being accessed by the target system.  It’s a little more complicated than it sounds so there is a dedicated support page for the Trace Feature.

    • Ostrich ROM stacking
    • So you want to use your Ostrich 2.0 with one of our switching adapters? ( Two Timer, G2X, G3 )

      This guide gives you an idea of how to “stack” your ROMs to make things work.

      Step 1: determine how big ONE program is. ( look how big your ROM is – 27C256 = 32kbyte = 8000h, 27C32 = 4kb = 1000h )

      Step 2: Determine how big of a program your switcher uses.  This hopefully will be the same as the size of your ROM, but your ROM may be smaller than this value.  G2X = 4kb = 1000h, Two Timer = G3 = 32k = 8000h)

      Step 3: Fire up Emutility

      Step 4: Uncheck the “End justify” box

      Step 5: Input the size of your program in the SIZE box.

      Step 6: Do some math.  Programs in the Ostrich are END JUSTIFIED.  The Ostrich’s memory goes from 00000h to 3FFFFh.  Fire up the windows calculator in scientific mode.  Change the format to hex.  Put it 3FFFF to start.

      Step 7: Subtract the size of your PROGRAM.  This can be different from the size of the switching adapter.

      Step 8: Put this value in the start address box.

      Step 9: Program the ostrich (Write from file to emulator)

      Step 10: Go back to Windows calculator.  Subtract the size of the SWITCHING ADAPTER.  (3FFFF – size of program – size of switching adapter)

      Step 11: Go back to step 8.  Repeat steps 8 through 11 until you have programmed all desired settings.

    • Pinouts for 4-Pin Interconnect Cable for Various Products
    • Please take a moment to check that you have this arrangement correct for your combination. We’re talking about four pins and colors, you can do this!

      For TTL-level communications, we use 4-pin latching interconnect cables.  Because of the variety of devices which can be connected, and because we don’t control all of the different as well as legacy production lines and designs, the pinouts vary from one arrangement to another. While this is a complicated mess, it’s not ALL our fault. 🙂

      This page details most conceivable arrangements and specifies the correct pinouts for each. In many cases, one end is different from another, so it is important to determine what is being connected to which end of the connection. In other words, when you do not have a straight-through cable, it matters which end gets plugged in to which device.

      The cables come in 3 different lengths: 6″, 12″, and 48″. The 48″ units are shielded with the black-colored lead, the other two are not (they are short). Thus, it is IMPORTANT to be sure that the black wire is connected to the ground line at both ends when using the 48″ cable. If you instead connect a RX or TX line to the shield (black) line of the 48″ cable, you can have trouble. The other lengths can be more forgiving.

      Six different pin arrangements exist currently and we designate them as A-F. The cable for a given combination.can have two ends different or the same depending on the combination, but luckily, there are only so many combos which are realistic.  If you have questions about what you need, contact us.

      The Cabling Conspiracy, Documented

      The following spreadsheet documents the pinouts of various devices.  If you have a cable made for one device and you’d like to use it on another, you’ll need to move pins around to match the configuration of the new device.  Failure to do so properly has been known to cause premature failure of devices.  Be warned.

    • Posting Tips
    • If you have a piece of information that you consider to be valuable, we encourage you to post it for other customers!

      We would especially like to see some video walk-throughs. If you have a video you would like to share, upload it to your favorite video sharing site (YouTube, Google Video, Metacafe, etc), and use the following syntax to embed it into your post:

       

      [google-video]Full Video URL[/google-video]

      [metacafe]Full Video URL[/metacafe]

    • Press Coverage
    • We've been covered in the press by various magazines and periodicals. Here's where you can see these articles. You can left-click on the images or text to browse right into the linked PDFs, or you can right-click, and save the file for review off-line. Some of them are a couple megs, but nothing too huge.


      Chevy High Performance, October 2004. Full spread on using the AutoProm with author's OBD1 GM 165 MAF Corvette.



      Honda Tuning, June 2005. Detailed article illustrating chipping install, interviews with me and other PGMFI folks. Features the Ostrich, BURN1, HULOG, and other hardware.



      GM High Tech Performance, August 2006. Nothing too in-depth, this is the press release for the Roadrunner LS1 realtime emulator under their 'Cutting Edge' section.



      Perth Street Car, Volume 14 Number 1. This aticle from Australia gives account of a True-Blue tuner's experience with the Roadrunner on a Holden performance vehicle.



      GM High Tech Performance, November 2006. This is an in-depth article with all the awesome details about the Roadrunner in action on the dyno. A full review, this is a must-read for anyone that does work with LS1 vehicles.


      Have fun out there!
    • Privacy
    • No information you supply us with will be shared with others, unless you expressly request it.
      Security is of extreme importance, and the best of secure data handling is used for credit card information.
    • Programming Chips: Using Offsets
    • How to use offsets when programming chips:

      If the chip you are programming is of a larger capacity than the binary file you are putting on it, you typically need to use an offset with respect to chip addressing. This option is shown in the TunerPro RT program under 'Moates Prom I/O'. To program a chip, proceed as follows:

      1. Ensure that all programs on the PC are closed, and then connect the AutoProm or Flash & Burn unit. If using a serial version of the AutoProm, connect its power supply. Make sure, if using an AutoProm, that it is disconnected from the car's ECM.
      2. Once the unit is connected, start up the TunerPro RT program. You should see at the bottom of the window a message like "Connected: AutoProm 2.5.A" or something similar. If this is not shown, and you instead see "Hardware Not Found", then one of the following needs to be checked
        1. Driver installation. If using a USB product, the proper driver needs to be installed and configured correctly. Check website for detailed instructions in this regard
        2. Switch position. If using an AutoProm, there is a switch on the back (black horizontal) of the unit which needs to be placed in the 'toward the middle of the unit' position. If it is in the 'toward the outside' position, then the chip burning and emulation functions will not work.
      3. Assuming that (2) is achieved successfully, you are now ready to put a chip in the unit. Place the chip such that the chip notch or arrow is oriented in the same direction as the ZIF socket handle, which should be toward the cable connections. Also, make sure that the chip is positioned away from the ZIF handle, so that the empty holes in the socket are present at the handle end. The orientation and positioning of the chip in the socket is CRITICAL, so make sure that this is correct. See pictures on website for clarity.
      4. Under the 'Tools' menu item, select the 'Moates Prom I/O' option, and you will get a submenu. In here, you should do the following in the correct order:
        1. Select the type of chip you'll be programming from the drop-down menu. This will likely be either the AT29C256 or the 27SF512.
        2. Pick the 'Load file to buffer' option, and navigate to find the file you want programmed on the chip. Select it, and it will be loaded to memory on the PC.
        3. Take note of the file size indicated in the message window. It will likely be one of four sizes: 4k, 16k, 32k, or 64k (kbytes).
        4. Take a look at the top right part of the window, and you'll see the offset values. This is what we'll do next.
      5. The file size, along with the chip size, will determine what offsets you need to use. When you change the offset values, you will notice that other values will change automatically. Just make sure that the correct values are filled in for all four boxes before programming the chip. The following table summarizes what offsets you need to use depending on chip used and file size:

        File Size
        Chip
        Buffer Start -> End
        Chip Start -> End
        4k (4096)
        AT29C256
        000000 -> 000FFF
        007000 -> 007FFF
        16k (16384)
        AT29C256
        000000 -> 003FFF
        004000 -> 007FFF
        32k (32768)
        AT29C256
        000000 -> 007FFF
        000000 -> 007FFF
        4k (4096)
        27SF512
        000000 -> 000FFF
        00F000 -> 00FFFF
        16k (16384)
        27SF512
        000000 -> 003FFF
        00C000 -> 00FFFF
        32k (32768)
        27SF512
        000000 -> 007FFF
        008000 -> 00FFFF
        56k (57344)
        27SF512
        000000 -> 00DFFF
        002000 -> 00FFFF
        64k (65536)
        27SF512
        000000 -> 00FFFF
        000000 -> 00FFFF


        As you can see, the buffer (or file content) will be placed at the 'end' of the chip.
      6. Once you have selected the proper chip, the proper file to use for the program content, and the proper offsets, you are ready to program the chip. If using a 27SF512 chip, you must 'Erase Chip' first. This is not needed with the AT29C256. Go ahead and select the 'Program Chip' option. Follow this action with a 'Verify' command to make sure everything programmed correctly. You should get a 'Success' notice.
    • Programming Chips Using Offsets Support
    • If you’re completely new to burning chips, you may want to take a look at the Beginners’ Guide before reading the rest of this article.  You will probably still need to read this guide in order to choose the correct programming parameters unless you’re in the situation where you’re programming a chip that is the exact same size as the chip you are replacing.  Programming chips with offsets comes into play in two situations:

      1. If the chip you are programming is of a larger capacity than the binary file you are putting on it, you need to use an offset to ensure the tune ends up in the right spot on the chip.
      2. Switching adapters which hold multiple programs require the use of offsets to fit multiple programs on a single chip for a switching adapter.

      Both of these cases will be covered in this article.

      Chip Offsets With a Single Tune:

      We’re going to assume you have either TunerPro or Flash n Burn open at this point and the chip physically oriented correctly.  If you need help with this, look at the Beginners’ Guide before continuing.  We will be selecting the correct buffer and chip addressing to ensure the chip is burned properly and can be used.

      When in the software:

      1. Select the type of chip you’ll be programming from the drop-down menu. This will likely be either the AT29C256, 27SF512, AT90F040 or Moates J3 adapter (F3/F3v2).
      2. Pick the ‘Load file to buffer’ option, and navigate to the file you want programmed on the chip. Select it, and it will be loaded to memory on the PC. Take note of the file size indicated in the message window. (You can typically “hover” over the filename before opening it and Windows will pop up an information box iwth the file size)  It will likely be one of five sizes: 4k, 16k, 32k, 56k or 64k bytes.
        • The file you have loaded will determine your buffer addressing (start/end)
        • 4k byte = 0000/0FFF
        • 16k byte = 0000/3FFF
        • 32k byte = 0000/7FFF
        • 56k byte = 0000/DFFF
        • 64k byte = 0000/FFFF
      3. In the top right part of the window you will see the Chip Addressing offset values that need to be changed. The buffer addressing along with the chip size will determine what offsets you need to use. (Flash n Burn usually automatically selects sane offsets based on your chip type and file size in order to place your buffer at the end of the chip, where it usually belongs.)
        The following table summarizes what offsets you need to use depending on chip used and file size:

         

        File Size
        Chip
        Buffer Start -> End
        Chip Start -> End
        4k (4096)
        AT29C256
        000000 -> 000FFF
        007000 -> 007FFF
        16k (16384)
        AT29C256
        000000 -> 003FFF
        004000 -> 007FFF
        32k (32768)
        AT29C256
        000000 -> 007FFF
        000000 -> 007FFF
        4k (4096)
        27SF512
        000000 -> 000FFF
        00F000 -> 00FFFF
        16k (16384)
        27SF512
        000000 -> 003FFF
        00C000 -> 00FFFF
        32k (32768)
        27SF512
        000000 -> 007FFF
        008000 -> 00FFFF
        56k (57344)
        27SF512
        000000 -> 00DFFF
        002000 -> 00FFFF
        64k (65536)
        27SF512
        000000 -> 00FFFF
        000000 -> 00FFFF
        32k (32768 EECIV)
        F3/F3v2
        000000 -> 007FFF
        032000 -> 039FFF
        56k (57344 EECIV)
        F3/F3v2
        000000 -> 00DFFF
        032000 -> 03FFFF
        64k (65536 EECIV)
        F3/F3v2
        000000 -> 00FFFF
        032000 -> 03FFFF
        216k or 224k (EECV)
        F3/F3v2
        “bank” format: non-linear!
        convert to 256k!
        256k (EECV)
        F3/F3v2
        000000 -> 03FFFF
        000000 -> 03FFFF

        While the correct values are often selected, you can manually enter them.  For a single-tune single-chip scenario, you generally want the buffer (or file content) to be placed at the ‘end’ of the chip. The notable exceptions to this rule are 32k EECIV Ford tunes (which need to start at 0x32000 and end before the end of the chip) and 216k/224k Ford EECV bins (which are not in linear memory format and need converted to 256k before programming).

        check_settings
        To do this manually:

        • Ensure Buffer Addresses are correct for the file size you have loaded.
        • Adjust the Chip Addressing start value and end value until the end value is the maximum value for the chip AND buffer address values are correct.
        • A short list of common chip addressing settings:
          • 64k bin: 000000 start 00FFFF end ( SST27SF512 chip )
          • 32k bin: 008000 start 00FFFF end ( SST27SF512 chip )
          • 16k bin: 00C000 start 00FFFF end ( SST27SF512 chip )
          • 4k bin: 00F000 start 00FFFF end ( SST27SF512 chip )
          • 56k Ford EECIV bin: 032000 start 03FFFF end ( Ford F3 chip )
          • 256k Ford EECV bin: 000000 start 03FFFF end ( Ford F3 chip )
          • 112k Ford EECV bin: SPECIAL need other software ( Ford F3 chip )
          • 216k Ford EECV bin: SPECIAL need other software ( Ford F3 chip )
          • BEB files CANNOT be programmed with FnB / TP.  Must program using Binary Editor
          • eBIN file CANNOT be programmed
      4. Once you are satisfied with the offsets, perform a normal Erase/Blank/Program/Verify cycle!  Consult the Beginners’ Guide for more information.

      Using Switching Adapters:

      Using our switching adapters (G2X, G3, GX, TwoTimer, F3, F3v2,F8) requires programming chips using offsets of making “stacked” bin files.  Switching adapters use chips that are larger than an ECU requires, allowing the extra space to be used for multiple programs.  The “extra” space gets divided up into chunks, each of which can store an individual tune.  There are two approaches to creating proper chips for use with switching adapters, both equally valid:

      1. Lump all tune files together on your PC into one bin file “stacked” which is the same size as the chip, program chip at once.
        • The “Bin Stacker/splitter” function in TunerPro can be used to prepare a single file from a group of tunes.  (You can also use a hex editor or other tool)
        • This “stacked” file contains all the tunes and can then be programmed like a “normal” file using TunerPro, Flash n Burn, etc.
        • “Normal” programming cycle: Erase, Blank check, Load tune/buffer, Program chip, Verify.
        • Entire chip gets programmed at once, all tunes for the ECU get programmed on the chip in one operation as part of the “stacked” file.
        • Requires preparation of new “stacked” file and reprogramming of entire chip if any individual tune changes.
      2. Program the chip multiple times, once for each tune, different small selected area of chip Program/Verify cycle instead of whole chip.
        • Instead of relying on a program to create a “stacked” file, knowledge of chip addressing is used to place tunes at correct places within a chip.
        • Programming cycle changes slightly: Erase, Blank check happens at very beginning of cycle ONLY ONCE.  Does NOT happen before every Program/Verify operation, like normal.
        • Erase/Blank is followed by multiple Program, Verify operations.  Each operation is for one tune.  Each operation will have different start/end addresses which are a portion of the chip.
        • Does NOT require preparing any special files in advance – uses the same bin files which would be used for single-tune programming.
        • If you want to chance a tune which is already programmed, the entire chip must be erased and all tunes individually reprogrammed.

      As a rule of thumb, tunes start at the end of the chip and count down.  i.e. “Tune 0” is in the highest addresses on the chip, or the top slot in a stacked bin.  “Tune 1” will be the next lower slot.  Some adapters have chips which can hold more tunes than there are address lines for switching.

      Each switching adapter we sell has different numbers of available slots, slot sizes and corresponding chip addresses start/end:

      • G2X: 27SF512 chip (00000/0FFFF), 16x 32kbit/4kbyte slots on chip:
        1. F000/FFFF
        2. E000/EFFF
        3. D000/DFFF
        4. C000/CFFF
        5. B000/BFFF
        6. A000/AFFF
        7. 9000/9FFF
        8. 8000/8FFF
      • G3: 29F040 chip (000000 / 07FFFFF), 16x variable size slots, Ex remote required, addressing varies according to settings on adapter
      • GX: 29F040 chip (000000 / 07FFFFF), 16x 64k slots, Ex remote required, addressing varies according to size of base file.
        • There are 16 slots on the chip.  Each slot is 64k ( 0x0FFFF) in size.
        • Tunes smaller than 64k typically need to be top-justified so that they END at the end of each window
        • When using the Ex remote (or no switcher – floating switch inputs) slot “0” will be at the end of the chip and bigger numbers on the Ex remote will mean slots closer to the beginning (0x000000) of the chip.
      • TwoTimer: 27SF512 (00000/0FFFF), 2x 256kbit/32kbyte slots, idles in “high position”
        1. 8000/FFFF
        2. 0000/7FFF
      • F3 (version one – switch pin and 2 tunes): special case.  Cannot program entire device at once, stacking NOT possible.  Program chip twice, manually change state of switching pin during programming. Note: “Erase chip” function does NOT erase whole chip, only erases the “bank” selected by the jumper
      • F3v2 (version two – 4 pin connector and dial switch, 8 tunes): special case.  Cannot program entire device at once, stacking NOT possible.  Program chip multiple times, manually change state of switch during programming to select different slots. Note: “Erase chip” function does NOT erase whole chip, only erases the “bank” selected by the switch
      • F8: special case.  Use F8 device utility to prepare and program tunes.
    • Quarterhorse
    • About the QuarterHorse

      The QuarterHorse delivers in unparalleled fashion. It plugs into the J3 port like a chip, but can do much more. The QH hardware is compatible with all EEC-IV and EEC-V ECMs through 2004 equipped with a J3 port, allowing realtime tuning AND datalogging while the vehicle is operating.  In order to realize the capabilities of the QH hardware, each ECM must have specific software support – there is no such thing as “universal software” for the QH. Using the QH and appropriate software, you can change ANY parameter while the vehicle is running without disturbing operation. On fully-supported applications, you can log any parameter at sample rates well over 100 frames per second using only the QH hardware without any additional datalogger required.  (On a practical level, the speed of most software/PCs limits this to about 20 frames/second of data.) The combination of on-the-fly tuning and rapid, accurate data logging makes it possible to tune engine combinations that would have been impossible to do prior to its introduction.  This device continues the tradition and heritage of our highly-integrated, low-cost, high-quality tuning tools from GM and Honda into the Ford arena.

      Software support is critical for the QH.  In order to realize its full potential, extensive software features need to be implemented.  The locations and format of parameters available to change need to be mapped out.  The locations and formulas used by the ECM for storing data need to be identified.  To make things even more complicated, some parameters are stored in memory that the QH cannot access in many factory ROMs – additional “patch code” needs to be written for each strategy to allow all parameters to be logged.  This patch code is integrated into the datalogging definitions in most software and is part of the reason why each strategy requires individual attention.  As of 7/31/14, it is supported by Paul Booth’s EEC Editor, Clint Garrity’s Binary Editor, and Mark Mansur’s TunerPro version 5 which each support different vehicles.   There is a basic list of which ECMs are supported that you can check, but it isn’t always up to date. Your best bet is to look at this page and contact us with information about your ECM.  Bottom line: Please check with us before buying any hardware to make sure your vehicle is supported!

      The QuarterHorse does have limited support (4x) for remote switching via rotary knob for EEC-IV applications (available separately, search this site for ‘QH Switch’) as well as software-based program selection from PC (8x 1-bank, 4x 2-bank, 2x 4-bank).  Firmware revision 1.6 adds the ability to ‘harvest’ stock binaries from a computer that is externally powered.  (i.e. you cannot do reads on the bench without a 12V power supply)  Although QH provides unmatched features, it has limits.  It is “just” an emulator and datalogger.  You are still working with factory ECMs.  Any limitations of the factory ECM that would be present with a chip will be present with the QH.  An example of this is that an A9L Fox body MAF computer cannot convert over to use a MAP sensor or run Coil-On-Plug simply by adding a QH.  It’s cool, but not magic.

      While the QH has a battery to retain your tune after the engine is turned off and your laptop is disconnected, we do NOT recommend that the QuarterHorse be left on vehicles permanently except in the case where tuning changes continue to be made on regular and ongoing basis. The QH has a battery with a finite life and it will eventually die. Its death will happen much faster if the QH sits idle than if it is being regularly used: the QH was always intended to be used as a tool for active interaction with the vehicle, not as a chip for delivering a static, unchanging tune. (Read more) If you do not have a laptop with the software necessary to make changes, you probably shouldn’t be using a QH: one of our chip products would be a much better choice for someone who isn’t tuning their car themselves.

      The standard QH package comes with all the hardware and cables needed: the QH device itself, a USB 2.0 mini-to-regular USB bulkhead cable, cable mounting bracket and bolt, standard USB 2.0 cable, and 2x snap-on ferrite beads.  Software is sold separately (check our ‘Tuning Software’ section).

      It is critical that the vehicle is fully off before installing or removing the QH on the J3 port.  Failure to power-off the ECM correctly can result in frying our hardware, your ECM or both!!!  If you have any doubts at all, remove the keys from the ignition 100% or disconnect the battery.  WARNING WARNING WARNING!

      Articles on Using the QH

      Here is a great how-to article done by Timothy Meyer, one of the early Quarterhorse users: www.moates.net/quarterhorse/qh_intro_meyer.doc

       

      Firmware Updates

      Most firmware updates (unfortunately) require you to send the device back in for us to upgrade the firmware.  There is no charge for the update, but we do ask that you pay for shipping.  (We’ll cover basic ground return shipping.)  If you would like to do this, use the RMA – Repair and Replace option on the main page and in the “Comments” field of your order please state that you would like a firmware upgrade.  Follow the directions and send it back and we will take care of it.  Firmware updates are not a requirement. If you are not having issues or upgrading software, you probably do not need to send your QH back.
      The easiest way to tell what firmware your QH has is to fire up the software you use with it.  At startup, EEC Editor will say something like “Found QuarterHorse 1.2Q” or in Binary Editor the Moates Hardware page will show the firmware revision of the QH.
      More about firmware upgrades:
      • The new version of Binary Editor 2010 requires QH firmware 1.6 or higher.Most firmware upgrades are bugfixes of one variety or another.  If you aren’t having trouble, chances are the bugs do not affect you.
      • Most bugs affected the QH when operating in modes 3 and 4 (EECV)
      • The latest firmware revision as of 2/11/10 (version 1.6) allows you to read the stock program from an ECM using the QuarterHorse.

      Program Switching with QuarterHorse

      Here are pictures which detail how the rotary switch is installed on the QuarterHorse. The kit comes with a length of no-clean solder, and it is very easy. Follow the pictures for guidance, and remember, this is ONLY for EEC-IV and not post-1995 EEC-V.
      First, look at the connector part you received. It may or may not have had one of the 4 pins removed. If not, pull it out so that it is as shown.

      Go ahead and use the no-clean solder that was supplied. Get one spot on the QH connector tinned up like it shows in the picture.
      Now, hold the modified 4 (now 3) pin connector in place as shown, re-heating the solder so that the two pieces can be bonded together in the correct position.

      Now, come in with the solder on the other 2 joints. Use a little extra for strength, but don’t go overboard. Re-heat and add solder to the first joint you started with here to ensure good connection.

      Soldering work is now complete, so check fitment of the cable and look for straightness and orientation. Use the photo below for reference.

      Here’s another angle showing solder joint details.

      These are most of the parts (pin header shown unmodified) that come with the switch kit. Knob is also included (shown in 2nd picture below).

      Here is what the completed switch / QH / knob assembly should look like:

      This is a pretty simple installation. It basically overrides the BS0/BS3 lines (if you’re familiar with this terminology) at the EEC connector. Therefore, to repeat, this is NOT to be used on EEC-V applications.

      NOTE: The QuarterHorse must be configured to use MODE 1 or the switch will NOT WORK.  As of the time of writing (Apr 2011) Binary Editor is the only software that supports Mode switching which means it is also the ONLY software that will currently work with the switcher module.

      Switching Low Level Details

      While in Mode1, there are 4 tunes available.  The following table explains the state of each pin while each tune in BE is active.  It matches the pin orientation of the header that is pictured above.

       

      If you don’t want to use our switching kit but you do want to do switching, you need to understand how this state table works. The first thing to keep in mind is that all pins default to “1” or 5V unless you intervene – this is called “pulled up.” When you are figuring out what state the QH is going to be in, you must always assume any pins you haven’t specifically changed the state of will be “1.” A simple way of doing switching without our kit would be to solder a wire to the GND pin (by itself, above) and to the one next to it (BS0). If you were to put a toggle switch on this, you would be changing between Tune 0 (switch open) and Tune 3 (BS0 = GND)

    • QuarterHorse: 1.4 to 1.6 Firmware
    • There has been one major firmware upgrade for the QuarterHorse.  There is minimal impact for EECIV users (i.e. Foxbody, 94-95 GT) but EECV users will see a much bigger difference.

      What changed?

      • EECV 2 bank operation completely changed (affects 96-98 vehicles ONLY)
      • Fix to data presentation and corruption during large numbers of incremental updates in low memory pages and program switching (affects EECIV in select modes in Binary Editor ONLY)
      • Added support for reading ECMs (All vehicles)

       

      How to Tell If Your Unit Has Been Updated

      The easiest thing to do is try and read a PCM, particularly if you already have a stock program read from it to compare to.  If the read operation succeeds, you have 1.6 or newer firmware.  If the read operation fails or does weird stuff, you probably should look into the firmware upgrade.

       

      Upgrading Firmware

      Unfortunately, QuarterHorse firmware CANNOT be upgraded in the field.  You can contact support to arrange for an upgrade.  All units with older firmware are encouraged to upgrade, but in many cases (single bank EECIV, for instance) there will be little if any impact to daily use.

    • Quarterhorse Battery and Resistor Check
    • This note only applies to older QuarterHorse hardware version 1.3 (fw ver 1.6) units which have the battery soldered to the QH.  Production of this style QuarterHorse stopped around 2016 and was replaced with the current model that features a circuit to draw power from the keep-alive 12V power supplied to the ECM and uses a socketed CR2032 coin cell battery designed to be replaced by the end user.

      The battery and circuit on the original QH v1.3 is designed to last 5+ years before needing replacement.  If the BR2330A battery on the QH has become low (<2.0v), the QH will lose its tune memory when the USB is disconnected.  If this has happened, you have two choices:

      1. Order a replacement battery (BR2330A-GAN $3 from us, also available from the usual places), desolder the old one and replace it yourself.  You can expect the new one to last about as long as the last one did.  Be warned: this is not a trivial task unless you have the right tools.  Removing the battery without damaging the circuit board requires care.  If you are not comfortable with circuit board soldering, please do not butcher your QH.
      2. Use the trade in program for End Of Life Hardware.  (for $100, you can trade in your old QH for a brand new unit with the removable battery)

      Checking the Battery

      To check your QH, mheasure the voltage of the battery (leads are accessible at the bottom of the QH). Record value (good = 2.5v or better, bad = 2.0v or less typically <1v by the time there is a problem).

      qh_bat

       

       

      Very Old QuarterHorse issues – Manufacturing Errors

      Many years ago, a number of QH units were shipped with the incorrect resistor in location R4. This can lead to premature battery drain (less than a year). These units were primarily shipped out during 4Q2012 as a result of undetected assembly error (our bad, sorry!).  At this point (2020) we expect that they’ve all been replaced but this stub of information exists as a historical record.  Please note: less than 1% of QuarterHorses ever shipped had this issue before we caught and corrected it.

      In order to determine whether your QH is affected by the manufacturing error, measure the resistance (ohms) across R3 and R4.   The correct resistors will give readings of  R3=1.0k and R4=10k (within 5% or so). If R4 instead measures 1.0k, then the unit is affected and R4 needs to be changed to the correct value of 10k. R3 should be fine at 1k on all units.

      Measure the resistances across R3 and R4. The ohm readings should be R3=1k, R4=10k.

      qh_res

      If the R4 reading is 1k instead of the correct 10k, then contact us for special RMA instuctions.

    • QuarterHorse: Battery Installation
    • Currently shipping QuarterHorses differ from the original in two subtle ways:

      1. There is a circuit to keep the QH’s memory using power from the Keep-Alive-Memory voltage supplied to the ECM with the key off. This should decrease the amount that the QH’s own battery is used in cars regularly driven.
      2. The BR2331A solder-on battery has been replaced with a socketed CR2032 removable battery. (commonly available)

      This version of the QH is shipped without the battery installed. You should install it prior to use.

      1. Open bags and unpack everything. You should have a loose battery along with a QuarterHorse module:

      Quarterhorse and battery unpacked

      Quarterhorse and battery unpacked

      2. Turn the battery so the “+” side is facing up. Slide it under the metal spring end of the battery holder.

      First, slide the QH under the metal clip side of the battery holder

      First, slide the QH under the metal clip side of the battery holder

      3. Push the battery gently downwards and toward the metal spring. The end of the battery opposite the metal spring should slide under the brown plastic retaining clip and lock into place.
      done
      4. Once installed, the brown plastic clip will hold the battery pretty tightly.  Should you need to replace it, the easiest way to remove the battery is to gently pry on the metal clip with a small screwdriver until the battery clears the metal retaining clip and can be gently pulled out.

    • QuarterHorse Battery Life
    • We get asked, “How long will the battery on the QuarterHorse last?”

      Unfortunately, we can’t give you a straight answer to this.  It’s not because we’re trying to be difficult – it’s because there are a LOT of variables.

      Some things that impact battery life:

      • How much the QH sits vs. the car runs.  The battery on the QH is only used when the key is turned off.  If you drive the car more, the battery will last longer.
      • The temperature that the unit is stored at has a huge impact on battery chemistry.  Self-discharge increases dramatically with storage temperature.
      • The temperature that the battery operates at has a huge effect on its performance.  Lower temperatures decrease the useful life of the battery.
      • Extremely high temperatures (>60C) contribute to extremely rapid death.
      • Batteries discharge while being stored.  We try to buy the freshest stock possible.  We do production runs annually to minimize the time that batteries sit on a shelf prior to being deployed in the field.
      • The conductivity of anti-static bags (like what we use to ship the units) is such that sitting on a shelf prior to sale can adversely affect the battery life.  A technote from Panasonic recently highlighted this. (we’ve altered our storage methods to combat this)
      • There is a decent amount of variation among individual batteries.

      The “show car” in a cold climate (i.e. comes out a few times a year) that stays in an unheated garage is pretty much the worse case imaginable.

      For a healthy QuarterHorse, we’ve come up with a worst case figure of about 2.5 years and a best case figure of about ten years for battery life.

      The chips (F3, F8) that we sell use non-volatile Flash chips that (at least on paper) have guaranteed memory retention of at least 20 years.

      While many people think of the QH as a chip and leave it in their vehicle full time, the QH was never intended to be a permanently-installed piece of gear.  It was intended as an emulator, a tuning tool, something to be tethered to a laptop for use.  In cases where the vehicle will no longer run on a factory computer, a dead battery on an emulator will strand you unless you have a laptop handy to re-load the tune.  Like all of our other emulator products, we recommend that a chip be used for long-term operation.

    • QuarterHorse – Optoisolator Install and Use
    • On some vehicles, the QH doesn’t work well due to an excessive amount of electrical noise or ground potential differences.  In these cases, the optoisolator module we sell provides electrical isolation between your laptop and the QuarterHorse.  While not a solution to electrical noise issues on the vehicle, it certainly can help.

      The main workflow change that this creates is a need to have the QH powered on whenever communicating using the opto cable.  If you need to load a base tune on the bench, you can still plug in to the USB cable directly but you will not have any isolation.  Then again, you shouldn’t need it on the bench.  Please don’t try to have both the Optoisolator interface and the standard USB interface plugged in at once.  It shouldn’t break anything, but it also shouldn’t work.

      Install

      In order to use the optoisolator interface with the QH, you must solder a 4 pin right angle latching header.  You should have received one with the optoisolator kit.  Email us if you require extra latching pin headers.

      First, place the pin header in the QH, oriented as shown here:

       

      Viewed from the bottom:

      Next up, solder the 4 pins.

      View of completed QH with header for Optoisolator module:

      Once the header is installed, simply connect the supplied 4 pin latching header between the QH and the optoisolator module.  Plug the USB end of the optoisolator module in your laptop and get back to tuning.  The isolator module uses the same USB drivers as the QH.

    • RMA Procedure
    • Although we do our best to test things before shipping them to you, things happen.  And sometimes those things mean that the devices you order from us just don’t work.  In other cases, devices quit functioning after a time of faithful service.  We understand this and we’re generally very willing to get you a replacement.

      Starting November 15, 2022 we will only be providing 90 days coverage for goods sold through Moates.net.  Most of our products are no longer available and we are not able to provide the same service as previously.  Coverage  for 90 days will come in the form of warranty replacement or a refund, at our discretion.

      What we ask of you:

      1. CONTACT US FOR HELP.  Don’t just send something in.  Email us first!  Give us a chance to help you resolve the issue without sending things back.  A substantial portion (well over half for certain products) of items returned to us test fine and pass testing.  We would love to be able to help you resolve those errors so that you don’t have the same problem with two good units.
      2. Be honest.  If you tell us your car caught fire (yes, this has really happened) or your dog chewed it (yes, again true) or your car flooded (yes, again true) we will probably chuckle and help you.  If you lie about what happened and we figure it out, we’ll probably be pissed and much less likely to help you
      3. Be descriptive.  When you follow the RMA instructions (see below), you will be asked to explain the problem.  We expect more than, “It don’t work.”  Instead, we would hope to see something more like, “I have a Windows 8.1 laptop.  I plugged my BURN2 in, had drivers installed correctly but the Flash n Burn software did not find my device.  I contacted support and worked with them to diagnose the issue.  They recommended that I RMA the device.”
      4. Make a backup.  Any materials we return to you will be sent BLANK.  If you need a copy of your tune, it is your responsibility to save it before sending in any hardware.   If you cannot recover the tune from the device, we will not be able to either.  We will not recover any tunes.

      Please try to follow RMA procedure!  (detailed below)  If you don’t do this, we’re not going to know what to do when your item shows up.  If you ship us something BEFORE making an RMA order, please fill one out as soon as possible and include a note that you shipped your RMA without properly marking the box.

      We offer two options for warranty service:

      • “Standard RMA” : send defective goods in, wait for them to arrive and get checked out, we mail you replacements.  If you’re not in a hurry, this is the best option for you.  There is no guaranteed turnaround time with this option.  We typically have things heading back to you approximately 5-10 business days after we receive them.  (See below for more details)
      • “Express RMA” : purchase the replacements you need, choose your shipping method.  Replacements ship immediately – using overnight shipping, you could have replacements as early as the next business day.  Send defective goods in, wait for us to receive them, receive a refund for the order placed.   If you’re on a tight time schedule, this is the option for you.  Your order is essentially a refundable deposit to ensure you return the original goods.  (See below for more details)

      Standard RMA Procedure

      1. Contact support.  Troubleshoot the issue.  If they determine you need replacements, continue.
      2. Go to the “RMA – Repair and Replace” section on the left navigation bar of our website.
      3. Add the Return Service item to your cart.  Check out.  You will be placing and order with us, just like if you were buying new goods – except there is no charge for RMAs.  (We do this to make sure we have the correct contact and shipping information for you and so you can track the status of your RMA.)
      4. During checkout, please explain in detail what is wrong and what you have done for troubleshooting in the ‘Comments’ box.  A human being will read and review anything you write in the ‘Comments’ before handling your RMA.  Please explain which vehicle and ECU/ECM/PCM you’re using.  If you have any special requirements, this is your opportunity to be clear about what you need.  Finish the checkout process.  If you forgot anything, you can email us and reference your RMA number.
      5. You should receive an email from us at the address you used to register for our site with an order number for the RMA you just filled out.  If you do not receive this email, please check and make sure you have the correct email address in your profile.  As a backup, you should be able to see the RMA Order number in your order history while logged in to our site.  This order number will be your RMA number.
      6. Box the item up and send it to us with “RMA xxxxxxx” written clearly on the outside of the box.  Our address:

        Moates.net
        16848 Jefferson Hwy
        Baton Rouge, LA 70817

        (you can also find it here: https://www.moates.net/info_pages.php?pages_id=6)
      7. Wait for the item to arrive.  We do NOT typically update order status to indicate items have arrived.  If you have concerns, you may email us.
      8. RMA turnaround time varies according to how busy we are but is typically 5-10 business days from when we receive it till when a replacement ships.  If you’re in a hurry, you can email us and say “please” but we cannot guarantee the processing time for standard RMAs.  (see below if you are in a hurry)
      9. We will repair or replace the item at our sole discretion and ship it back to you.  We typically ship either UPS Ground or USPS Priority mail or domestic orders or USPS Express mail for international orders.  You will typically receive a tracking number when your replacement ships.

       

      Express RMA Procedure

      1. Contact support.  Troubleshoot the issue.  If they determine you need replacements, continue.
      2. Place an order for the item(s) you need a replacement for.  If you have special requirements (switching headers, bluetooth headers, etc.), please be sure to mention them in the ‘Comments’ box otherwise “stock” replacements will be sent.  Double check your shipping address!!!  You can choose whatever method of shipping you want for replacements, including overnight shipping.  (Please remember we do NOT ship every day!  Express RMAs are no exception!)
      3. Check out.  You should receive a message from us at the email address you used to register for our site with an order number for the replacements you just ordered.  If you do not receive this email, please check and make sure you have the correct email address in your profile.  As an alternative, you should be able to see the order in your order history while logged in to our site.  Please remember this order number.
      4. Follow the “Standard RMA” Procedure above.  In the ‘Comments’ box, explain that you already placed an Express RMA order for replacements and your order number is #xxxxx.  Explain you would like a REFUND for order #xxxxx.  This is critically important.  If you do not explain that you placed an Express Replacement order and ask for a refund, we will treat your order like a standard RMA.
      5. After your defective goods arrive, we will process your order (again, 5-10 business days is standard turnaround time) and we will issue a refund for the original goods purchased.  You will not receive a refund for shipping costs.

    • Roadrunner
    • The RoadRunner is the only available full blown emulator for LS1 PCMs – unlike other “emulation” software, the entire contents of the flash is emulated Real-Time, not just certain maps.  It can also be used as a general purpose emulator in custom applications (Bosch Motronic, BMW, Miata, Nissan, …)  It is designed for PSOP44 chips like 28F200 28F400 28F800 29F400 29F800

      Hardware Available

      At this point, there are two (and a half) versions of RoadRunner you can buy:

      1. A RoadRunner pre-installed in a rebuilt 12200411 GM LS1 ECM.  This is intended for all supported GM applications.

      2. A RoadRunner “guts kit” containing just the raw circuit board, cables and hardware to mount the device in place of a 28Fx00 EPROM.  This is intended for all custom applications.  If you purchase the guts kit, you should specify whether you want a 512k (28F400) or 1024k (28F800) version. (we’re counting these two variants of the guts kit to get two and a half)

      GM Compatibility

      At this point (August 2009), there is only ONE officially supported target for the Roadrunner: the 12200411 (or just “411”) ECM.  The 12200411 is plug-and-play with ’99 and up Corvette LS-1’s (throttle-by-wire), ’99 and up Camaro/Firebird LS-1’s (cable-throttle), ’99-02ish Gen III Vortec trucks (cable throttle), ’00-02ish Gen III Vortec trucks (throttle-by-wire).  The 12200411 can also control 4L60E and 4L80E transmissions.   In case it wasn’t clear from the application list, the ‘0411 can control both drive-by-wire and drive by cable engines – pretty much any GM vehicle with a 24 tooth reluctor wheel(“24x”) is fair game for full sequential fuel and spark operation.  The ‘0411 can also be used to run 97-98 LS1s with minor rewiring or “green plug” 1024k PCM vehicles with slightly more extensive wiring changes.  It can also be used with a Van OS to run distributor applications with only a 4X reluctor.  The ‘0411 can also be used to run LTx/Gen2 retrofits with a custom conversion kit from EFI Connection.

      Please note that the RR does *not* function identically to a “normal” PCM in terms of long term keep-alive memory.  When you turn the key off with a RR PCM, the PCM will reset every time.  If you need to pass emissions or do other functions that depend on this memory, you may have to use a normal PCM.

      Later (LS2/LS3+) engines switched to a different style ECM (E40, E38, E67, E37, etc.) that is electrically incompatible with Roadrunner.  There will never be a RoadRunner for any late-model ECM.  Period.

      Late model engines also switched to a different style crank trigger setup (58X / 60-2) that makes it impossible to use a LS1 ECM to run the engine.  People have succeeded in using a RoadRunner in a 411 ECM to run a late model engine by a combination of creative wiring changes and swapping the crankshaft reluctor to a 24 tooth unit.  This is not for the faint of heart.  We do not officially support this application so we can’t really assist you with this conversion, but again we’d recommend Mike at EFI Connection as a capable source for wiring and conversion needs.

      Unsupported GM Applications

      Previously, a Bluetooth option for Roadrunner was available.  This has been discontinued – it is no longer available.  There are no plans to offer this in the future.

      Previously, there were Roadrunner versions available for LB7, 1024k PCMs and 98 PCMs.  All of these applications had issues which is why we no longer offer “ready to run” Roadrunner PCMs from these families.  These have been discontinued – we cannot guarantee that these applications will work fully.

      Why did this happen?

      • 97-98 LS1 Core PCMs are hard to find.  The 99-02 PCMs are superior and can be made to work in 98 applications with little effort.  If you’re bound and determined to use a RR in a 97-98 PCM, you could try this at your own risk but we strongly recommend conversion to an ‘0411 PCM.
      • LB7 PCMs come in several flavors.  Early PCMs lacked a driver that later PCMs had, making them incompatible.  Also, RR equipped PCMs had a tendency to present an invalid VIN.  This did not appear to affect operation, but…  VATS was also sometimes a concern and may need to be disabled.  Combine these issues with the extremely limited supply of Core PCMs and we decided to no longer offer a “ready to go” LB7 Roadrunner.  For a TUNER, none of the issues on this platform should be a show stopper but we would recommend caution in a daily driver application.
      • 03-08 1024K LS1 PCMs may all have 1024k of memory but they do NOT appear to be universally compatible.  During testing on an 05 Avalanche, there was a significant number of no-start conditions while using a stack of “random” 1024k PCMs fitted with a RoadRunner.  It was not determined whether this was due to differences in PCM hardware, The RoadRunner or another factor.  The decision was made not to offer a ready-to-go RoadRunner for vehicles requiring a 1024k PCM.

      Getting an Unsupported RoadRunner

      If after reading why we no longer offer a RoadRunner for a PCM you have and you still want to try it, there are options.  If you want to try one of these applications, you will need to either:

      • Send us a Core ECM.  Order a RR Guts kit.  Order the RR Install service.  Receive the PCM you sent us back with a RoadRunner installed
      • Order a RoadRunner Guts kit.  Install it yourself.

      Please note that these applications are UNSUPPORTED meaning that if you have strange problems, we aren’t going to be rushing to revise the product in order to solve your issues.  These are intended for advanced users capable of troubleshooting and working independently.  Use at your own risk!

      GM Software Compatibility

      EFILive natively supports the RoadRunner.  In order to use it with EFI Live, you must purchase the Roadrunner license.  After purchasing the license, you can use the Roadrunner in any vehicle supported by the ECM.  You can tune as many RoadRunner equipped ECMs as you like – you do not need to buy additional licenses for additional RoadRunners.  If you want to flash a copy of the program in the Roadrunner into the vehicle’s original ECM, you can do this but standard EFI VIN or Stream licensing fees will apply.

      TunerCAT OBD2 Tuner natively supports the RoadRunner.  Existing OBD2 Tuner customers can simply buy the RoadRunner upgrade.  There is a package that includes one definition file which is intended for people who want to use RoadRunner and TunerCAT to tune only one vehicle.  There is an add-on ***ONLY AVAILABLE FOR ROADRUNNER USERS*** that includes the WinFlash cable allowing you to reflash vehicles with TunerCAT.  There are also all-LS1 and all-supported-vehicles packages.  ***AGAIN, YOU MUST BUY ROADRUNNER HARDWARE TO BE ABLE TO BUY TUNERCAT OBD2 TUNER.  NO EXCEPTIONS.*** Updates for TunerCat Roadrunner users are available on the “Additional Links” section of the product page for RRTuner and WinFlash on our web store.  These links are updated to always point to the most recent version available.

      Other Applications / Technical Specifications

      The RoadRunner has been used successfully as a general purpose 16 bit data bus emulator for applications other than GM LS1.  (Bosch Motronic ME7.1 comes to mind.)   The RoadRunner uses the same FTDI USB-serial bridge as our other products, appearing as a COM port to the operating system.  It is designed to emulate a 28F800 (0r 28F400, 28F200, even 28F100) chip operating in 16 bit data bus mode.  The 28F800 is capable of presenting data in both 8 and 16 bit selectable modes, but the RoadRunner does not support this – 16 bit mode only.  The pinout of the RoadRunner is designed to match the pinout of these ICs – other 16 bit data bus chips could theoretically be emulated with creative cabling.  We have NOT performed extensive testing to determine the fastest access time for the Roadrunner, but we estimate that it is in the 65-80ns range.  90s is 100% safe.

      The above picture illustrates the locations of pins 1 and 44 relative to the USB connector on the RoadRunner.

      Full documentation for the protocols for talking to a Roadrunner for emulation and limited data trace are available on request. (They are very similar to the protocols used with the Ostrich 2.0 and our other devices but some minor differences exist.)  If you are interested in using the RoadRunner in a custom application, please contact us.  The hardware platform is a tried-and-tested 16 bit wide data bus EPROM emulation system available at a competitive price.

      Specific Non-GM Application Usage Notes

      The RR_on_BP5R write-up details fitting the RoadRunner emulator to the Miata BP5R (2000 1.8) ECU (Thanks James Holland!)  This ECU uses a 29F200 instead of the 28F400/800 the RR was designed for.

      We have a byteswap board that allows the RR to fit inside the case of a ME7 Audi 2.7t ECM and performs an endian-swap for use with TunerPro RT on this platform.

    • RoadRunner and Bosch ME7
    • Lately, we’ve seen a lot of interest in using the RoadRunner as a general purpose ROM emulator for the Bosch ME7 platform as found in ~2000-2005ish Volkwagen 1.8t and Audi 2.7t applications.  This is an “off-label” application and you should NOT expect “plug and play” ease of installation.  This isn’t something that we’ve played with ourselves very much, so the information we can offer is somewhat limited.  This page will attempt to collect what we know in one place.

       

    • RoadRunner: EFI Live with RTACS Support
    • Notes from EFI Live’s Paul Blackmore regarding using the auto-tuning feature of EFI Live with Moates hardware:

      1. Check both axis of the VE table in the tuning tool to make sure the MAP and RPM headings (the ones colored sky-blue) have link PIDs associated with them. The link PIDs are usually displayed as {Link: SAE.MAP} and {Link: SAE.RPM}.

      2. Check that the units displayed for the MAP link pid are exactly the same as the units specified in the Scan Tool for that PID.

        You can change the units of the VE table’s MAP axis using the menu option: Edit->Configure display units…

        You can change the units of the MAP PID in the Scan Tool by displaying the [PIDS F8] tab page, right clicking on the SAE.MAP PID and selecting Imperial or Metric so that it matches the units in the VE table.

       

      1. Make sure you start logging (red button) or monitoring (yellow button) in the Scan Tool. Otherwise real-time data will not be sent to the tuning tool’s VE table and RTACS will not work.

      2. Make sure the cells you want RTACS to update are not “protected”. Protected cells are displayed with a white background.

      3. Set the accuracy in the [RTACS] tab page of the VE table to 0. That will turn off EFILive’s auto protect feature when EFILive “thinks” the cells are accurate enough.

      4. Make sure the Col, Row and BEN factor PID values are displayed and updating with the expected values in the [RTACS] tab page of the VE table.

      5. Make sure the min and max RTACS limits in the [RTACS] tab page of the VE table are set far enough apart so that values can be modified.

      6. Make sure the “RTACS is NOT active” changes to “RTACS is active” when you expect RTACS to be working.

      Here’s more text from a recent email:

      The most important part of the RR auto tune is to make sure the calculated BEN factor PID you are using is correctly calculating the error between the commanded v’s actual (i.e. wideband measured) AFR. The error is displayed as a numerical value that represents the percentage error between the two values.

      ———————————————————————————–

      The BEN factor is calculated as (actual AFR) divided by (commanded AFR).

      A value of 1.00 indicates that the commanded AFR matches the actual AFR

      A value less than 1 indicates that the actual AFR is less than the commanded AFR by the fractional part of the value. i.e. if the value was 0.95, then the difference is 5%, if the value was 0.90 then the difference is 10%, if the value was 0.87 then the difference is 13% etc.

      A value greater than 1 indicates that the actual AFR is greater than the commanded AFR by the fractional part of the value. i.e. if the value was 1.05, then the difference is 5%, if the value was 1.10 then the difference is 10%, if the value was 1.13 then the difference is 13% etc.

      The RTACS software multiplies the existing VE value by a percentage of the BEN factor, the percentage is based on coarse/fine settings.

      ———————————————————————————–

      When the border turns red that indicates that the logged data is currently being discarded because it did not pass the filter(s) that you have in place.

      ———————————————————————————–
      You should also make sure the PCM is operating is open loop to prevent the PCM from fighting against you and adjusting the long/short term fuel trims while you are trying to tune. You can force open loop by increasing all values in B4205 (Closed Loop Temp Enable) to greater than the coolant temp will ever get. That will prevent the PCM from entering closed loop.

      Hope this helps!


    • Roadrunner: Hard Resets Support
    • When you set up a Roadrunner in a vehicle, you will often need to force a ‘hard reset’ of the Roadrunner PCM. This is particularly true if you are using a custom OS or changing OS type.

      For using EFI Live, perform the following:

      1. Open up the software, and get the EFI Live Roadrunner Control Panel. Make sure the Roadrunner serial number is being displayed.
      2. Upload the whole new Operating System and Calibration from the PC *.tun file to the Roadrunner device.
      3. Select the “Execute from PCM Flash Memory (if equipped)” option (two chips with arrows in between). This will turn the Roadrunner emulation ‘off’ in order to blank out the PCM RAM when the memory read faults. The software should display ‘Flash’ as the mode of operation.
      4. Re-select the button, this time selecting the ‘Emulation’ mode of operation.
      5. Turn the key or power to the PCM off, wait 10 seconds, and turn it back on.
      6. If you like, at this point you can open the EFI Live ScanTool software (make sure cable is connected and vehicle is on). You will probably want to scan for codes and DTCs, and clear them all as appropriate.
      7. Start the vehicle briefly (1-2 seconds) and then shut power back off. This is primarily to reset the idle relearn, so it typically not an issue with the drive-by-wire configurations.
      8. You should now be able to restart the PCM and vehicle, and things should work as expected if you are using a valid *.tun file.

      This procedure will also help if you have suffered tune corruption.

      If you have any questions, contact EFI Live or Moates technical support and they’ll be glad to help further.

    • Rotary Switch Install for QuarterHorse
    • Rotary Switch Installation Procedures for QuarterHorse on EEC-IV
       
      Here are pictures which detail how the rotary switch is installed on the QuarterHorse. The kit comes with a length of no-clean solder, and it is very easy. Follow the pictures for guidance, and remember, this is ONLY for EEC-IV and not post-1995 EEC-V.
       
      First, look at the connector part you received. It may or may not have had one of the 4 pins removed. If not, pull it out so that it is as shown.

       
      Go ahead and use the no-clean solder that was supplied. Get one spot on the QH connector tinned up like it shows in the picture.

      Now, hold the modified 4 (now 3) pin connector in place as shown, re-heating the solder so that the two pieces can be bonded together in the correct position.



      Now, come in with the solder on the other 2 joints. Use a little extra for strength, but don't go overboard. Re-heat and add solder to the first joint you started with here to ensure good connection.


      Soldering work is now complete, so check fitment of the cable and look for straightness and orientation. Use the photo below for reference.


      Here's another angle showing solder joint details.



      These are most of the parts (pin header shown unmodified) that come with the switch kit. Knob is also included (shown in 2nd picture below).


      Here is what the completed switch / QH / knob assembly should look like:


      This is a pretty simple installation. It basically overrides the BS0/BS3 lines (if you're familiar with this terminology) at the EEC connector. Therefore, to repeat, this is NOT to be used on EEC-V applications.
       
      Hope this helps!
    • Shipping & Returns
    • Product Shipments:
       
      We ship product TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY.

      We strive to ship orders that are submitted prior to 1PM CST on days when we are shipping. Orders submitted after 1PM CST may not ship until the next shipping day. This means that if you order at 6pm CST on a THURSDAY your order will not ship until the following TUESDAY.


      Tracking information for UPS shipments will typically be sent to you the night the order goes out.

      Domestic orders will be sent via UPS using the selected method upon checkout, anywhere from Ground to Express. If your order is fairly inexpensive (<$100), you may have the option of using USPS Priority Mail (no insurance or tracking!) to save money on shipping.

      International orders will preferentially be sent using USPS Priority Express International which comes with tracking and insurance. It typically costs at least $40-$60usd depending on package weight and destination. You may also select a UPS shipping option. However, you'll typically find that UPS is much more expensive.  Additionally, you should beware of UPS brokerage fees. These often come as an unpleasant surprise to individuals.

      Full value of items will be specified in the customs documentation to ensure adherence with international laws, and the customer is responsible for all taxes, tariffs, and duties on their end.
      No exceptions! Don't even ask, or we'll cancel your order!!


      Moates.net Address:

      If you need to send us a check/money order for payment, hardware for return, repair work, or device installation, send it to the following address:

      Moates.net
      16848 Jefferson Hwy
      Baton Rouge, LA 70817


      Returns:

      Satisfaction, fitment, and functionality are all fully guaranteed, with 100% money back or exchange/repair offered for at least the first 30 days without question. After that, we can probably work with you depending on the circumstances. We even have a 'no-risk' guarantee. If you buy our stuff and can't figure it out, we'll give you a full refund. That means zero risk, all you cover is shipping.

      Exchange of items toward 'trade-up' products is also offered on a case-by-case basis, so if you want to upgrade to other products, feel free to inquire to see if your proposal is eligible.

      Note: For returns and refunds, please follow the instructions below and use the RMA option which is located here:
       
      Please include a note indicating what you want done along with reference to the order number and payment. Also include a return address for the shipment.
       
      Again, if you want to make sure your return/repair is not lost, then PLEASE use the RMA option! It is located here:
    • SocketBooster 1.0 and 1.1
    • The SocketBooster 1.0 exists to provide active conditioning for signals from our Ostrich2.0 and ChipExtender products.  In some circumstances, the logic levels generated by these devices do not meet the specifications of the target device you are trying to use them in.  The SocketBooster remedies this issue by essentially amplifying and conditioning the signal.  In many cases, the same effect can be achieved by using a short emulation cable, such as the 6″ EMUC2806 we sell.

      Ostrich 2.0 Trace Feature with SocketBooster 1.0

      The SocketBooster 1.0 interferes with the data trace feature on the Ostrich 2.0 on an electrical level.   However, one of our users reports that there is a fairly simple modification to get everything working again.  We have not verified this ourselves, but several users have reported success with tracing on a 27C32 application and a SocketBooster.

      "The mod to get it going is to cut the CS & OE ribbon cable wires from the
      O2, and solder them to the 2732A header on the socket booster via a 330R
      resistor."
      
      

      SocketBooster 1.1 revision

      We revised the SocketBooster around November 2013 so it could be compatible with the trace feature of the Ostrich 2.0.  All units sold after this time should work without modification.  If you would like to upgrade your unit, please contact us.

      Applications

      The socket booster is REQUIRED for successful use of the Ostrich 2.0 or Chip Extender with 24-pin applications such as the GM TBI OBD1 C3 1227747 ECUs.

      The SocketBooster also seems to help out with a lot of applications that use older Hitachi/Mitsubishi processors such as DSM, 8 bit Nissan Z31/Z32/R32, etc.  ECUs of this range are typically in the 84-91 year range.

      Signs of Issues

      The typical signs that your application may require a SocketBooster are intermittent ECM shutdowns, odd behavior, odd datalogging results, etc. Intermittent (or consistent) flaky behavior.

      Installation and Use

      The Socket Booster has a single switch on it which controls how the device operates.  The SocketBooster can either boost signals passing straight through it (28 pin setting) or act as a 24->28 pin converter (like the G2 we also sell) with the switch in the 24 pin position.  Although we do NOT recommend this, you can solder a SocketBooster directly into a 24 pin ECM by trimming the two pins closest to the switch and setting the switch to the 24 pin setting.

    • Support and Help
    • There are several options for support and help:
       
      Search:
      This is at the top right of the page you're currently viewing. Useful for quickly finding products and information about them. Note you can select which part of the website to search.
       
      Additional links:
      By pulling up the product detail page of the item you are interested in at the webstore, you will find links to important information such as installation instructions and operating manuals. Here is an example for the 27SF512 chip:
      27SF512 Product Page

      Support pages:
      We maintain a collection of searchable information which is fairly thorough. Much of this information is cross-linked within the webstore through 'additional links', but the bulk content is located in a structured format here:
       
      Video Content:
      A growing number of tutorial, introductory, and how-to videos are located here:

      Forums:
      We used to have a forum, although it wasn't very active. At some point, we'll try to bring back the content as a searchable database of information.
      There are other forums which are very active and helpful, here are a few:
      For Fords: eectuning.org
       
      Contact Us:
      If you can't find the answer to your question online, you may Contact Us
       


       
    • Support: Information we need
    • Our support email box gets a lot of messages that are loosely of the form:

      “IT DOESN’T WORK!”

      Unfortunately, this does NOTHING to help us help you figure out what is going on.   The following ten questions should give you a reasonable guide to what we need to help you solve the problem at hand.  (Feel free to copy and paste this and use it verbatim as the beginning of your emails to support@moates.net )

      1. What kind of vehicle(s) ? (Year, make, model)
      2. Which engine (stock / replacement) ?
      3. Which ECM / ECU (Part number, catch code, ID sticker, etc.) ?
      4. If known, which strategy/mask/operating system/codebase on ECM?
      5. Which Moates.net hardware are you trying to use?
      6. If you are using non-Moates hardware, which?
      7. Which software application are you trying to use?  Which version?
      8. Which definition(s) for your particular vehicle are you using?  Where did you get them?
      9. Did things stop working (i.e. they worked in the past) or have they never worked?
      10. Is this problem something that happens every time (consistent) or just sometimes (intermittent) ?
    • Theory: Alpha-N
    • This is going to be rather brief because Alpha-N is rarely used as the primary strategy for engine management today.  You should at least know what it is because it is often used as a “sanity check” for primary control strategies.

      Alpha-N is also sometimes called “TPS maps” because the only sensor that is used for determination of fueling is the Throttle Position Sensor.  (And measured RPM, or how fast the motor is spinning)  Fuel and timing requirements for the engine are expressed as a function of RPM and TPS.

      Alpha-N is used most of the time in tricky situations:

      1. When the MAP sensor or MAF sensor has failed and the primary control strategy is deemed to be invalid.  Something-is-better-than-nothing is the idea.  (“Load with Failed MAF” is an example from Ford-land)
      2. In conjunction with ITBs (Individual Throttle Bodies) due to the extremely low vacuum created by them (making Speed-Density tricky) and the desire to avoid needing to fit a potentially restrictive Mass Air Flow sensor (making MAF impossible).  Again, something-is-better-than-nothing is the idea.
      3. In conjunction with ITBs and MAP as a load multiplier. (PowerFC D-Jetro for GTR Skyline, most notable example)  ITBs + Boost – Alpha-N output is multiplied by a MAP sensor to come up with a composite load index.
      4. In conjuction with Speed-Density and some kind of blending algorithm.  This approach is often used with very large camshafts that pull little vacuum at idle.  Basically, TPS and MAP are allowed to contribute varying amounts to the overall load calculation.   Net result: more stable and meaningful load index close to idle when MAP sensor readings are unstable.  Found on the Electromotive TEC3 among others.

      Alpha-N is very poor at dealing with hills (think about engine load going up and down hills at a constant throttle position), temperature variations and just about anything else that you’d care about except close to wide open throttle where it does fine.

    • Theory: An Injector Model
    • Understanding your fuel injectors is one of the most important things you can do to ensure that fueling is appropriate for your engine.  First, some vocabulary:

      • ECM, ECU, Engine computer : used interchangeably to mean the computer operating the fuel injectors and running the engine
      • AFR, Air – Fuel Ratio : the ratio between how much air and how much fuel an engine is receiving or how “lean” or “rich” it is running
      • Solenoid : a solenoid is an electromagnetic electromechanical device.  It operates by using electricity moving through a coil to generate a magnetic field which moves a plunger. (more)
      • Injector : a special type of solenoid that allows fuel to flow through it when energized (more)
      • Pulsewidth : the length of time the engine computer applies electricity to the injector, or how long the injector is commanded to be open
      • Flow Rate : The amount of fuel an injector flows once open.  These values are typically given in units of cc/min or lbs/hr at a specified fuel pressure. (injector flow rate varies with the square root of fuel pressure.)
      • Latency : the length of time after the injector is turned on before it achieves its linear flow rate.

      Everything you ever wanted to know about injectors but never knew to ask

      Injectors are pretty simple devices: turn on the electricity, wait till the fuel starts flowing.  Right?

      Not quite…

      Injectors are mechanical devices – once electricity is applied, the injector needs to move from its resting position in which no fuel flows to its open position where fuel is flowing at its published flow rate.  The problem is that this transition from “closed” to “open” is far from instant – some larger injectors can take several milliseconds to open fully.  During this time, injectors do not flow at their linear flow rate.  How long injectors take to open varies from injector to injector largely due to mechanical reasons.  Fuel pressure can also affect injector latency because of the force applied by fuel on injector internals.  And most importantly, the amount of electricity you supply to the injector controls how much magnetic force coils inside the injector can create.  Bottom line: when your battery voltage decreases (such as when cranking) your injectors take longer to open and fuel injector latency increases.

      Tuning for Injector latency

      Most engine computers have some kind of table to compensate for injector latency.  They can be called many things – “Injector Battery tables” or “Injector battery offset” or “battery tables” but they frequently look very similar: a table of how long to open the injector before it achieves linear flow (“latency”) versus measured battery voltage.  The idea here is that the ECM opens the injectors for a period of time (from the battery tables) to compensate for variations in injector opening time versus battery voltage.  If you change injectors, you probably need to update your battery tables, too.  If you vary fuel pressure, you may want to try changing the battery tables as well as other tables to account for changes in latency.

      A basic method for tuning injector latency requires a wideband and a multimeter (or better yet, datalogging battery voltage from the ECU).  Follow this procedure:

      1. Start by hooking up you multimeter or starting datalogging battery voltage.  If you are using a multimeter, use a voltage source close to the ECM if possible.
      2. Fire up the car and hold it at a few thousand RPM.  Observe battery voltage – it should be fairly high. (13.8 – 14.5 volts, depending on the vehicle)
      3. Gradually, let the car return to idle while keeping an eye on battery voltage.  Many vehicles will run anywhere from 0.75 to 0.1 volts lower at idle compared to cruising RPMs.
      4. Problems with battery tables can contribute to hunting or unstable idle.  Once the car is idling, do everything you can to put an electrical load on the car – turn on headlights, turn on the stereo, turn on the fan for the climate control inside the car.  As you do so, keep and eye on battery voltage and observed air fuel ratio.
      5. If you see the car run progressively leaner when you turn on electrical accessories and voltage drops, start increasing injector latency at the battery voltage you observe until you minimize changes in air fuel ratio when changing electrical load.  This will result in a curve with a steeper slope.
      6. If you see the car run progressively richer when you turn on electrical accessories and voltage drops, start decreasing injector latency at the battery voltage you observe until you minimize changes in air fuel ratio when changing electrical load.  This will result in a curve with a flatter slope.
      7. If you feel really adventurous, you can disconnect the large cable between the alternator and the + side of the battery (or sometimes a wiring distribution block) while the car is running.  When you do this, the battery will stop charging.  Voltage you observe at the ECU will decrease as the car consumes the battery’s charge.  You can generally tune a much wider range of the battery table by doing this but it is much more of a pain to do and will eventually drain your battery to the point the car will not run.
      8. Note: these injector battery tuning methods assume the car is reasonably well tuned close to idle and will idle at a reasonably steady AFR.  Doesn’t need to be perfect, but you may do more harm than good messing with injector battery tables when the tune is jacked.

      Another sign that your battery tables may be off is when the car runs poorly at small throttle angles compared to large throttle angles.  Sometimes changing latency is a quick way to fix a car running too rich / too lean that runs well close to wide open throttle.  Latency changes will have a large effect at low pulsewidths (i.e. closed throttle) but will have comparatively little effect at high pulsewidths (i.e. open throttle.)

      You shouldn’t be afraid to adjust injector latency as part of tuning but always remember that it is a BROAD SWEEPING CHANGE THAT WILL AFFECT HOW THE ENGINE RUNS EVERYWHERE.  If you have a problem in a specific load condition, chances are your problem is elsewhere.  When you start seeing PATTERNS of problems (i.e. closed throttle too lean, close to idle where battery voltage too lean, hard starts/cranking when battery voltage lowest, etc.) then it is worth looking into whether a latency adjustment can solve your tuning issue.

      You can always sanity check your injector battery tables visually.  Injector latency always increases as battery voltage drops.  If you look at a 2D graph of battery voltage versus latency, it should always be relatively smooth.  As voltage increases, injector latency should level out and change much more slowly than at lower voltages.  This is not a Ford thing or a Honda thing – this is a universal thing that all cars that use fuel injectors will follow.

      Tuning for Injector Flow

      We haven’t said that much about injector flow up to this point, but it is equally important to having your engine run correctly.  Injector flow is the “obvious” thing that most people change when installing different injectors.  Most older systems account for injector flow with a “fuel constant” (it is called many different things in different systems such as… ) – when you change the size of injectors, you multiply the fuel constant by the difference in flow between your old injectors and your new injectors.  For example:

      1. Fuel constant = 16.4
      2. You have 24lb/hr stock injectors
      3. You install 32lb/hr stock injectors
      4. 24 (old) / 32 (new) = .75
      5. New fuel constant = old fuel constant * change in injector size = 16.4 * .75 = 12.3

      Keep in mind, this is just a guideline to get you close.  You can use the injector size / injector constant to make sweeping, global changes to fueling if your tune is off everywhere.  You *should* be able to get a tune very close to where it was before an injector change by changing nothing more than battery tables and an injector size / injector constant.

      Some systems (Ford, GM LSx, newer Dodge / DCX Hemi, others) use a dynamic flow model of injector behavior rather than a single “injector constant.” These systems try to more precisely account for the flow of injectors by modeling how injector flow changes as a function of how long they are open.  Most ~87-2009(ish) Ford uses the concept of injector slopes.  There is a “low slope” and an “high slope”, along with a threshold to change from one to the other and often a minimum pulsewidth.  The injector slopes can be thought of as TWO injector flow constants and the ECM changes from one to the other as the injector opens.  When changing injectors on Fords or other manufacturers that use dynamic flow models, a good starting point is to scale both slopes (or all members of a dynamic flow table) uniformly by the predicted difference in injector flow rate.  An even better approach is to copy values from another OEM calibration that uses the injectors you have installed.  Some injector suppliers (but not many – Injector Dynamics is the one that comes to mind) do dynamic flow testing and can supply you with data precise enough to plug in.

    • Theory: BASIC Tuning Guidelines
    • This article is being written to answer the most basic questions about what to shoot for when tuning an engine.  This is not intended to be absolutely what you must do – it’s intended to be a starting point for those who don’t know any better.

      Prerequisitites

      This article will assume you have read pretty much all of the Education section, particularly the article on Modes of Operation.  This article will assume you have a spark-ignition reciprocating piston 4-cycle (stroke) throttle-body fuel injected or multi-port fuel injected engine.  (If you aren’t familiar with these terms, click them!)

      Basic Setup Guidelines

      • Make sure the ignition system is in good shape before trying to tune a vehicle.  Coil(s), wires, and spark plugs themselves must be in good condition.  Fouled plugs will ruin your day.  Improper heat range or gap will cause ignition issues that will ruin your day.  A rule of thumb is to go one step colder on plugs for every point of compression (i.e. 9.0 -> 10.0) OR half atmosphere of boost (7.75 psi)  and decrease the gap by one third (i.e. 0.045″ stock to 0.030″) for every step colder plug.
      • Make sure timing is correct.  “Timing” here means BOTH the mechanical connection between your crank and camshaft AND any adjustment of distribtor, CAS, etc. used to mechanically adjust ignition timing.
      • As dumb/obvious as this may sound, you cannot make adjustments on an ECU to fix a mechanical problem. Things like bent valves, damaged pistons, dead coils, defective injectors,  bad sensors, incorrect mechanical timing, etc. are not things that you can fix with a computer.
      • If the engine is operating in closed loop operation, it’s fueling behavior will be determined by the operation of the O2 sensor.  DO NOT TRY TO FIGHT THE O2 SENSOR.  Use the O2 sensor to guide your tuning activity i.e. try to get the ECM to make zero changes based on O2 sensor feedback
      • Do not try to tune WOT using a narrowband (lambda) style O2 sensor, which is the most common type.
      • O2 sensors can “lie” about the mixture.  LARGE camshafts and misfires are the most common culprits for this behavior because Oxygen sensors measure the Oxygen content of the mixture in order to infer lambda.   Large camshafts and misfires both cause “extra” oxygen to be present in the exhaust, which will cause a false lean reading.  If the ECM is operating in closed loop when this occurs, it will generally add fuel when no such trim is required.
      • If closed loop O2 feedback is working against you, turn it off.  If you have closed loop feedback turned off, you should monitor conditions with a wideband.
      • If you are dealing with a volumetric efficiency type system (i.e. TBI/TPI GM and others) it is a good idea to have your VE values resemble reality.  I.e. if you have 180% volumetric efficiency at idle to achieve stoich, this is bad.  Most “hot” naturally aspirated engines will achieve 85-95% VE, *in a narrow RPM range at WOT*  Some older engines with poor cylinder heads and manifolds will struggle to achieve a 80% VE.  Extremely modern engines will often see a peak VE close to 100% in places.  Motors almost always lose VE at low throttle angles/low MAP sensor readings due to pumping losses created by the restriction at the throttle body.  See the Speed Density article for more.
      • If you are dealing with a Ford that uses Load, it is a good idea to make sure your injector size resembles reality so your MAF transfer function and calibrated load values will resemble reality.  The MAF and LWFM articles cover this as well.
      • Looking at  a graphical representation of your tune should be a “pretty picture” not a bunch of noise.  Things aren’t going to be straight or perfectly smooth most of the time or you wouldn’t be tuning it but you should see trends.  It does not matter whether you are talking about a MAF or speed density or Alpha-N setup.  You should see clear trends.  The absence of trends or unexpected reversal of trends can often indicate a mechanical issue such as a fuel pump that has reached its maximum flow capacity, misfires, reversion, etc.
      • For measuring power, your butt dyno is wrong.  Use a repeatable performance measure, i.e. dyno, accelerometer, 1/4 mile track, etc.
      • Use all your senses particularly SOUND when tuning.

      Basic Fueling Guidelines

      • Best emissions are generally achieved close or at stoichiometric.  This is generally around 14.7 AFR gasoline, or 1.0 lambda.
      • Best fuel economy is generally achieved between 15.5:1 AFR gasoline (1.05 lambda) and 16.2:1 (1.1 lambda) for port injected engines.  Newer cylinder heads with fast burn characteristics generally do better with leaner mixtues.  TBI setups generally need to run at least stoichiometric or richer.
      • Best power is usually achieved around 0.85 lambda (12.5:1 AFR gasoline) on modern cylinder heads.  Older heads generally require richer mixtures.
      • Forced induction engines run richer, mostly to combat knock.  How much richer will depend on the engine and conditions.  Except in rare cases, there is no benefit to ever running richer than 0.75 lambda (11:1 AFR gasoline)
      • Oxygenated fuels (Q16, E85, E98/Ethanol, Methanol, Nitromethane) require substantially larger volumes of fuel than “regular” gasoline.  If you have an option for stoichiometric ratio, use it.  If not, it is generally preferable to use injector constants / base pulse width modifiers instead of MAF transfer/VE to tune this out.
      • Almost all widebands on the market read in lambda but convert this to an AFR value for gasoline (where 14.7 AFR = 1.0 lambda) to display it.  If you are burning hexane, this is fine.   If you are running any other fuel, think of the desired lambda you wish to achieve and convert this lambda value to AFR gasoline.  I.e. target an AFR of “11.2 :1” to achieve a lambda of 0.77 with E85 at ~7.4 :1 AFR.
      • Most pump gasoline as of 2012 in the US is at least 10% ethanol, which means that a true stoichiometric mixture is closer to 14.1 than 14.7.
      • Summer and Winter gasoline blends can have dramatically different ethanol contents, especially in colder climates.  Different octanes and brands of gasoline can have a large variation.  Although somewhat outdated, see the gasoline faq for a more in depth discussion of fuel composition and why it matters.
      • If you are tuning the vehicle with closed loop O2 feedback disabled, make sure you tune such that the ECM will not have to make big changes to achieve its targets when closed loop is turned on.  This boils down to shooting for around 14.7 AFR (1.0 lambda) in areas where closed loop will operate.
      • Get AFRs around idle as smooth as possible in open loop without any feedback or idle troubles will happen.  Do not rely on closed loop to maintain fueling at idle.

      Basic Ignition Guidelines

      • Your ECU expects the distributor/CAS/other-adjustable-timing-thing to be in a certain spot.  ALWAYS SYNCHRONIZE YOUR TIMING WITH A TIMING LIGHT BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE!@#!#!!!
      • Mechanical factors (mostly combustion chamber volume, shape and design) are the primary factors determining optimal timing requirements.  Optimal timing is often referred to as “MBT” or Mean Best Timing.
      • Most naturally aspirated engines like to run between 24 and 36 degrees of advance @ WOT at RPM-of-peak-HP
      • It is often not possible to achieve MBT due to the engine knocking first.  Knock will destroy even the strongest engine.
      • Higher compression motors need less timing than lower compression motors.  Higher compression motors are more likely to be knock limited.
      • Forced induction motors need less timing as boost increases.  Forced induction motors are more likely to be knock limited.
      • Aggressive camshafts generally let you run closer-to-optimal timing than smaller camshafts.
      • Race gas and higher octane fuels generally allow closer-to-optimal timing.
      • At a fixed RPM, the engine will generally require less timing at higher load.  I.e. more throttle less timing
      • At a fixed RPM and load, the engine will generally require more timing with a leaner mixture.  (One reason to run a slightly richer mix is that you don’t need as much timing to effectively burn it.  There are plenty of exceptions to this and too rich can be a big problem too.)
      • At a fixed load, the engine will generally need more ignition advance as RPM increases until around maximum horsepower where timing requirements generally flatten.
      • Spark at idle is critcally important for maintaining a stable idle and not having stalling issues.  Too much spark will generally result in hunting/surging.  Too little will generally result in stalling or lumpy idle.  Spark control at/near idle is extremely manufacturer (and sometimes even ECM) specific.
      • You can tune ignition timing to some degree by reading plugs but instantaneous acceleration data and/or a dyno while monitoring knock is the best way.
      • The trap speed of a 1/4 mile run will tell you about power output but it will not tell you about specific RPMs, just overall performance.
      • Your “butt dyno” is totally inaccurate.

    • Theory: Mass Air Flow
    • Be prepared to do a lot of reading in the numerous side links on this page.  More information that is beyond the scope of this overview will be available.

      “Mass Air Flow” (MAF, for short) is a method of measuring airflow into an engine in order to supply an appropriate amount of fuel and adequate spark timing. First, vocabulary:

      • ECM, ECU, Engine computer : used interchangeably to mean the computer operating the fuel injectors and running the engine
      • MAF : Usually used as a shorthand for Mass Air Flow Sensor / Meter
      • Vane Air Flow Meter (VAFM, “Flapper” type meter) : An early type of air meter rarely used today that relies on air pressing against a metering plate (“flapper”) to provide an airflow signal
      • Karman Vortex air meter : A type of air meter that not used very much anymore that creates and counts vortexes (air disturbances) in order to measure airflow.
      • Hot-Wire MAF : A type of MAF Meter that uses a thin wire heated by an electric current to directly measure air mass.  The most common type of MAF today
      • Hot Film MAF : A type of MAF Meter that uses a metal film heated by an electric current to directly measure air mass.  Another type of MAF that is found today.
      • TPS : Throttle Position Sensor
      • MAP : Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor – a sensor that measures the pressure of air in the intake manifold
      • Displacement : the volume swept by a piston descending from the top to the bottom of the cylinder bore. More here.
      • AFR : Air Fuel Ratio – the ratio of air to fuel present in a combustible mixture. Usually stated as a ratio, i.e. 14.7:1 for the stoichiometric AFR for gasoline. Stoichiometric AFR varies from fuel to fuel.
      • Lambda : similar to AFR, except usually expressed as a number where 1.0 represents a stoichiometric mixture for all fuels.  Lambda and AFR are the same concept expressed in different units.

      Types of MAF Meters and General Operating Principles

      Hot Wire MAFs and Hot Film MAFs are the dominant technology in use today.  Earlier style meters (Vane/Flapper, Karman) required an external temperature sensor in order to provide a meaningful airflow reading.  Hot Wire and Hot Film sensors are often found coupled with a dedicated air temperature sensor but they do not strictly require one because the method in which they generate a signal accounts for the temperature of the air they meter.  If you want to learn more about meters, read up here.

      ECMs generally have a routine (usually called the “MAF transfer function” or something similar) that converts the raw sensor readings into an airflow value. Sometimes this is a real-world unit (such as g/s or lb/hr) and sometimes it is a purely arbitrary synthetic unit that merely defines the shape of the curve. MAF transfer functions for hotwire MAFs are usually an exponential curve. The shape of the curve is usually determined by the physical characteristics of the sensor. The metering range of the sensor is usually determined by the cross-sectional area of the housing it is in. This means that an easy way to increase the amount of air a given MAF can meter is to put it in a pipe with a larger cross-sectional area. The new MAF transfer function can be approximated (usually fairly closely) by multiplying the old transfer function by the difference in cross sectional area.

      Example Question: a meter in a 2″ diameter round housing can meter 1000g/s. The same meter in a 4″ diameter round housing will measure how much air?

      Answer: First, find cross-sectional area of 2″ diameter pipe.  Area of circle = pi * r^2.  Diameter = 2 * radius. Radius = 1″, area = 1 * pi.  Second, find cross-sectional area of 4″ diameter pipe.  Area = 4 * pi.  New area / Old area = 4 / 1 = 4.  Multiply original airflow (1000g/s) by ratio of area (4) to get maximum value of 4000g/s.  Note that each individual point in a MAF transfer function can be multiplied in this manner to rescale.

      MAF Systems

      From here on in this guide, “MAF” and “MAF Systems” will refer exclusively to systems using Hot Wire MAFs and Hot Film MAFs. The reason for this is pretty simple: these type of sensors (at least theoretically) are capable of measuring air mass without the need for significant compensation for air density (i.e. altitude changes, forced induction, changes in air temperature).  In practice, many control strategies use other sensors to try to increase the accuracy of the MAF by additional adjustments but it is not strictly necessary.  MAF sensors do not know what “boost” or “vacuum” are – they deal exclusively with airflow.  If you are trying to make the transition from tuning mostly Speed-Density systems to MAF Systems, be very cautious with timing values as the same trends and rules do not apply to both systems.

      Fueling with a MAF system is about as simple as it can get.  It goes something like this:

      1. The raw sensor output is converted to an airlow value
      2. The next step after determining airflow is to figure out how much fuel is needed to achieve a “target” AFR (more on AFR targets later) which is usually achieved by multiplying by AFR expressed cleverly (see footnote)
      3. Finally, the desired fuel value is achieved by multiplying/dividing by a value (injector constant, injector slope, async BPW, …) to account for injector size.  Also any battery compensation is added.  (See Theory: An Injector Model for more information)
      4. Done!  At this point, we have an injector pulsewidth!  PulseOut = (MAF_Transfer(RawMAFSensor) * TargetLambda * injector size) + injector latency

      There is no “standard” way of doing timing with a MAF system, but all variants basically calculate a value that represents how much air is entering the cylinder each time the motor turns over.  It goes something like this:

      1. Start with the same airflow value from step one of fueling. (MAF signal -> MAF Transfer)  This tells us the amount of airflow per unit time.
      2. Measure how fast the motor is spinning (RPM) and from this calculate how many revolutions happened during the same time frame as our MAF sample.
      3. Multiply/divide airflow by engine revolutions to get airflow / rev.  Most engine management stops here (GM, Subaru, Mitsufeces, …) and spark tables are indexed in grams/rev.  This is a measure of engine load (with a lowercase “l” to denote that we are talking about something different than “Load”, explained next)
      4. Ford (and others?) instead use a “Load” (with an uppercase “L” to denote that we are talking about something different than “load”) value that is calculated by multiply/dividing airflow/rev by engine displacement to get a measure of how full the cylinders are relative to their maximum capacity naturally aspirated at sea level with certain air conditions.  If you’re at all familiar with Speed-Density, this should sound somewhat familiar because it is a concept VERY similar to Volumetric Efficiency.
      5. Timing tables are usually in the form RPM x calculated load.  MAF timing tables will display a very different characteristic shape than RPM x MAP tables common in Speed-density systems.

      Now that we have some concept of cylinder filling (“Load” or “load”), we should return to a piece of how fueling happens in a MAF system: target lambda/AFR.  Usually the same measure used to determine appropriate ignition timing is used to determine an appropriate target AFR/lambda.  In these cases, there is a table that dictates target lambda/AFR indexed by RPM and load.  Sometimes, RPM and TPS is used to determing target AFR instead of calculated load.

      Strengths of Mass Air Flow

      1. Extremely accurate fueling and spark delivery across a diverse range of engine conditions (at least while in steady-states): the holy grail for engine management. A properly set-up MAF system can adapt to changes in weather and altitude with ease.
      2. Minor changes to engine equipment (i.e. headers, minor camshaft changes, intakes that do not significantly alter the placement of the MAF) do not require recalibration of the ECM.

      Weaknesses of Mass Air Flow

      MAF systems are known for having these issues:

      1. MAF systems are extremely intolerant of vacuum leaks.  Any leaks between MAF sensor and engine generally cause all manner of odd problems, running lean in most cases due to un-metered air making it into the engine.
      2. MAF sensors can be extremely sensitive to how they are “clocked” – merely rotating the sensor at a given spot in the intake tract can be sufficient to significantly change its output.
      3. MAF sensors require laminar flow to read 100% accurately.  True laminar fluids do not exist so this introduces some degree of inaccuracy to MAF sensor readings.  Placing MAF sensors near bends, size transitions or obstructions where flow is less laminar greatly magnifies this issue.
      4. A MAF sensor can be a flow restriction in cases where the MAF housing is the smallest portion of the intake system.
      5. Hot-wire MAF elements are very fragile.  Debris can destroy delicate wires easily.  Dirt and oil deposits can build up on the sensor element, adversely affecting readings.
      6. MAF systems have a relatively poor response to transient conditions, such as sudden throttle changes.  This is explained by the time it takes air to move from the MAF sensor where it is measured to the cylinder where it can be involved in combustion.
      7. MAF sensors are not “one-way” sensors – reversion from a camshaft with large amounts of overlap can cause air to be metered on its way in to the engine and then again on its way out resulting in an artificially high MAF reading.  This can almost always be fixed by placing the MAF sensor sufficiently far from the throttle body, however doing so comes at the expense of making transient response even worse.

      It may seem like there are a lot of weaknesses of MAF systems, but it is truly hard to emphasize just how amazing and important the strengths are.  It is no secret that the majority of OEMs today are implementing MAF systems as the primary control strategy.  There is a good reason for this, namely that engines can be controlled much more precisely (with the goal of meeting stricter and stricter emissions standards) with a MAF system than any other type of control strategy.

      Note: I say “Multiply/divide” multiple times because multiplication and division are very similar operations but division is generally much slower on microcontrollers and other “small” processors often found in ECUs.  For this reason, most division is implemented as multiplication by carefully changing the scale of one of the operands.

    • Theory: Modes of Operation
    • What makes engine management tricky is that even the best theoretical models fail to accurately represent physical behavior in certain situations.  All engine controllers would use the same logic and procedures for running the engine 100% of the time if there was a perfect engine control strategy.  Instead, most engine management schemes incorporate several different modes of operation in which different sensors dictate fuel and timing requirements.  Also, engine controllers have specific logic dictating when to switch between different modes of operation based on different demands from the driver and different engine conditions.  Some of the most common mistakes made by people starting out (hell, even experienced tuners too) are changing some of the “main” functions in order to try to fix a problem that is being caused by a secondary table or the computer operating outside its normal mode(s).  Better understanding of the various modes of operation will help pinpoint what needs to be changed in a tune.

      It would probably be a good idea for you to have read the other articles about Injectors, Speed-Density, Mass Air Flow, and Alpha-N before reading the rest of this.

      Some basic vocabulary:

      • ECM, ECU, Engine computer : used interchangeably to mean the computer operating the fuel injectors and running the engine
      • RPM : Revolutions Per Minute – how fast the motor is spinning
      • MAP : Manifold Absolute Pressure – (usually) the pressure of air entering the motor
      • ECT : Engine Coolant Temperature sensor – sensor used to measure the temperature of coolant circulating through a motor.  Sometimes called different things by different manufacturers.  I will use ECT here
      • IAT : Intake Air Temperature sensor – sensor used to measure the temperature of air entering the motor.  Sometimes called different things by different manufacturers – I will use IAT here.
      • MAF : Usually used as a shorthand for Mass Air Flow Sensor / Meter
      • MAP : Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor – a sensor that measures the pressure of air in the intake manifold
      • Idle Valve : A electromechanical valve controlled by the ECM that allows air into the engine in order to control engine speed.
      • Displacement : the volume swept by a piston descending from the top to the bottom of the cylinder bore.  More here.
      • AFR : Air Fuel Ratio – the ratio of air to fuel present in a combustible mixture.  Usually stated as a ratio, i.e. 14.7:1 for the stoichiometric AFR for gasoline.  Stoichiometric AFR varies from fuel to fuel.
      • Lambda : similar to AFR, except usually expressed as a number where 1.0 represents a stoichiometric mixture for all fuels.  Lambda and AFR are the same concept expressed in different units.
      • Stoichiometric : a mixture containing the precise amount of oxidants required for complete combustion of all fuel present.  See here or here for more information on chemistry involved.
      • Injector : a special type of solenoid that allows fuel to flow through it when energized (more)
      • Pulsewidth : the length of time the engine computer applies electricity to the injector, or how long the injector is commanded to be open
      • Flow Rate : The amount of fuel an injector flows once open.  These values are typically given in units of cc/min or lbs/hr at a specified fuel pressure. (injector flow rate varies with the square root of fuel pressure.)
      • Latency : the length of time after the injector is turned on before it achieves its linear flow rate.

      Goals of Engine Management

      Although the answer is somewhat obvious (“make the engine run as well as it can”) it is worth a closer look at what engine management systems try to achieve and why.  Operating optimally normally means one of several things:

      1. Making the most power possible without engine damage happening
      2. Consuming as little fuel as possible in order to make a specific power output (maximizing efficiency)
      3. Minimizing emissions

      Most of the time engine management systems aim for more than one of these at once, i.e. Fuel efficiency while minimizing emissions or power and efficiency.  Generally, you cannot have your cake and eat it too when it comes to engine management because the physical conditions required to achieve optimal fuel economy are vastly different than those required to achieve optimal power production.  Minimizing emissions frequently conflicts with BOTH power and economy!

      So how do engine management systems deal with the conflicting requirements of economy, emissions and power?  The answer is the title of this section – engine management systems switch between different modes of operation based on input from the driver, measurements from sensors and how they are programmed from the factory.  Sometimes in the course of tuning it is necessary to change not only configuration parameters of an ECM but also how it switches from one mode of operation to another.

      Common Modes of Operation

      Different ECMs will have different modes of operation and different rules for switching among them.  Many modes of operation exist to service requirements common to all engines, leading to many modes of operation being shared between different engine management implementations:

      • Cranking: This is the first task for an ECM – help an engine transition from being spun by the starter to spinning on its own propelled by combustion.  This might not sound like a very difficult task, but there is a LOT involved!  While cranking, cam and crank sensors need to be monitored so the ECM can determine how fast the motor is spinning and what angle the crankshaft is at in order to provide accurate ignition timing, injectors have to be fired in order to deliver enough fuel to get the engine moving, the ignition system has to deliver sparks at an opportune time to ignite the mixture, (in some cases) the idle valve needs to be opened to allow enough air into the motor to get it running on its own…  And more sometimes!  Combine this with (typically) the lowest operating voltages because the alternator is not providing electrical energy and you have a potentially tricky situation.
      • Startup: Once the engine is spinning under its own power, the fun can start.  There are often special rules that change the behavior of the ECU immediately after the engine starts.  Idling higher to prevent stalling is a common task in startup mode.  Many engines add additional fuel and change timing in order to try to help the engine warm up to desired operating temperature faster.
      • Open Loop: This is a critical mode for the overall operation of the engine.  Open-loop mode is the mode used most often for performance, but it is important all the time.  Open loop operation uses a control strategy like MAF, Speed-Density or Alpha-N to determine fueling and ignition parameters to use to run the engine.  If tuning parameters related to open loop are incorrect, the motor will never run optimally.
      • Closed Loop: This is an important mode for fuel economy and emissions.  In Closed Loop mode, the fueling and ignition values from Open loop are adjusted using feedback from additional sensors (usually Oxygen sensors).  Small imperfections in a tune can be corrected in closed loop, letting the ECU maintain much closer control over operating conditions than is possible with open loop alone.  There are usually limits to how large changes can be made by closed loop, which can lead to diagnostic error codes.  (Too Lean / Too Rich / O2 sensor)
      • Power Enrichment: (aka “PE” mode) This is a subset of Open Loop operation where engine conditions such as AFR and ignition timing are adjusted with the goal of maximizing power.  Frequently, TPS readings close to wide open throttle serve as a trigger for PE mode.
      • Tip-in: Sudden changes are a problem for all control strategies.  When the TPS sensor indicates the throttle has changed quickly enough, the ECU can enter Tip-in mode where
      • Decel Fuel Cut Off (DFCO): When you take your foot off the gas, many ECMs will shut off fuel injectors in order to decrease fuel consumption and help promote engine braking.
      • Dashpot: Many ECUs implement some form of digital dashpot using the Idle Valve.  The idea here is to prevent stalling when the throttle plate closes suddenly by opening the idle valve enough to gradually bring the engine to idle.
      • Idle: At idle, the ECU tries to maintain engine speed while little or no load is placed on the engine.  Idle is often one of the trickiest states to control well.  Usually a mixture of airflow control (via Idle Valve or Drive-by-Wire), spark control and fuel control is used.  Strategies for controlling idle vary immensely among manufacturers.
      • Limiting/Protection: Engines have limits – how fast they can safely spin, how much boost they can handle, how fast the car can safely travel.  Part of the ECM’s job is to monitor engine conditions and take measures before damage occurs.  Frequently, spark or fuel will be cut off until engine conditions return below a pre-set limit.

      More to come later on this topic…

    • Theory: Speed-Density
    • If you do not have a strong background in physics and chemistry, be prepared to do a lot of reading in the numerous side links on this page.  This isn’t intended to be a brutal presentation of the topic, but theoretical concepts are necessary in order to be able to understand what is going on behind the scenes.

      Speed-Density is a method of estimating airflow into an engine in order to supply an appropriate amount of fuel and adequate spark timing.  First, vocabulary:

      • ECM, ECU, Engine computer : used interchangeably to mean the computer operating the fuel injectors and running the engine
      • RPM : Revolutions Per Minute – how fast the motor is spinning
      • MAP : Manifold Absolute Pressure – (usually) the pressure of air entering the motor
      • ECT : Engine Coolant Temperature sensor – sensor used to measure the temperature of coolant circulating through a motor.  Sometimes called different things by different manufacturers.  I will use ECT here
      • IAT : Intake Air Temperature sensor – sensor used to measure the temperature of air entering the motor.  Sometimes called different things by different manufacturers.  I will use IAT here.
      • Displacement : the volume swept by a piston descending from the top to the bottom of the cylinder bore.  More here.
      • AFR : Air Fuel Ratio – the ratio of air to fuel present in a combustible mixture.  Usually stated as a ratio, i.e. 14.7:1 for the stoichiometric AFR for gasoline.  Stoichiometric AFR varies from fuel to fuel.
      • Lambda : similar to AFR, except usually expressed as a number where 1.0 represents a stoichiometric mixture for all fuels.  Lambda and AFR are the same concept expressed in different units.
      • Stoichiometric : a mixture containing the precise amount of oxidants required for complete combustion of all fuel present.  See here or here for more information on chemistry involved.
      • Ideal Gas Law : PV= nRT (Pressure times Volume equals moles of gas times ideal gas constant times temperature)  More to be read about this here.
      • Moles : a measure of how many atoms are present.  See here.
      • Induction stoke :  the part of a 4-stroke engine’s cycle in which air is drawn into the cylinder by the piston.  See here for more information if you are not familiar with a 4 stroke engine’s operation.

      Basic Goals and Method

      The goal of Speed-Density is to accurately predict the amount of air ingested by an engine during the induction stroke. This information is then used to calculate how much fuel needs to be provided and may also be used for determining an appropriate amount of ignition advance.

      The theoretical basis for this is the Ideal Gaw Law (more here.) rearranged to solve for “n” (the number of moles of gas present :

      • n = PV / RT

      In order to use n = PV / RT to calculate the amount of air a motor ingests during the induction stroke we would need:

      • P is pressure in the cylinder immediately after the intake valves close.
      • V is volume, which we know from engine displacement.
      • R we know (it’s the Ideal Gas Constant see here for more)
      • T is the temperature of the gas in the cylinder immediately after the intake valves close.

      Many of the things required to calculate the amount of air the engine ingests using the ideal gas law are missing, unavailable or at least incomplete.  Some notable points where reality is less than ideal:

      1. Our MAP sensor measures the pressure differential caused by the downward stroke of the piston in the intake manifold, not pressure in the cylinder as the intake valves initially close.
      2. We are assuming that there is no residual exhaust left in the chamber to contribute to “poisoning” of the intake charge.
      3. Camshaft overlap (i.e. when both intake an exhaust valve are open simultaneously – see here) makes fluid flow modeling considerably more complicated.
      4. T that we need is the temperature of the gas in the cylinder.  This is not usually MEASURED – instead it is ESTIMATED from the temperature of air in the manifold (IAT), the temperature of the cylinder heads (ECT) and other factors.  “RT” is often referred to as the “density correction term” as it tries to account for how air density varies with temperature.  Density correction is arguably one of the biggest problems with speed-density. (more on this later)

      Speed-Density introduces the concept of Volumetric Efficiency (VE) to account for the differences between what it can observe and what is really going on.  (mostly problems 1-3 above)  Roughly speaking, VE is the ratio between the amount of air actually present in the cylinder and the amount of air we predict would be in the cylinder using MANIFOLD pressure (MAP) instead of cylinder pressure for our “P” Pressure term, REVOLUTIONS Per Minute (RPM) times Displacement (Volume / REVOLUTION) for our “V” term and an air temperature value estimated from some combination of ECT and IAT for our “T” term.

      A motor said to be operating with 100% VE has the same amount of air actually in the cylinder as predicted by n = PV / RT.  Most engines operate at considerably less than 100% VE in most operating conditions.  The difference between actual airflow and theoretical maximum airflow is termed “pumping loss.”  Some engines (most notably Honda engines 🙂 ) can achieve slightly greater than 100% VE in certain conditions.  Most engines operating under forced induction can be thought of to have a VE greater than 100% in some conditions.

      Speed Density ECMs generally have one or more VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY (VE) tables that are a critical item to be adjusted.  These tables allow predicted airflow values to be more closely adjusted to observed reality.

      Strengths of Speed-Density

      Speed-Density has many things going for it:

      1. Pressure sensors do not pose any restriction to the flow of air into the engine, unlike a MAF sensor.
      2. MAP sensors respond to changing conditions very quickly, enabling it to have fairly good transient response especially compared to Mass-Air-Flow
      3. Compared to a carburetor, it allows much more control over the mixture at different engine loads
      4. Simplicity: all the sensors required are extremely reliable.

      Weaknesses of Speed-Density

      Speed-Density is known for having several notable issues:

      1. Density correction, density correction, density correction.  You might not think that temperature is that big of a deal, but trust me it is!  Seasonal changes can wreak havoc on speed-density systems.  Superchargers or turbochargers that compress air and raise its temperature from adiabatic heating cause significant changes in density that must be accounted for.  Altitude can also be really problematic.  Many systems incorporate Barometric Pressure sensors to try to address this, but it’s an imperfect correction.
      2. Large camshafts with extremely low vacuum due to high overlap close to idle.  Camshafts that have low or pulsing vacuum close to idle present a challenge for Speed-Density.  MAP sensor averaging can help.  Alpha-N blending can help.  It is still very tricky to use speed density to predict airflow with a pressure sensor with camshafts that do not build an appreciable amount of vacuum.
      3. Volumetric Efficiency tables can be very time consuming to tune.
      4. Engine modifications generally produce volumetric efficiency changes requiring re-tuning.
      5. Quite a lot of math is required to do Speed-Density “by the book.”  Because of this, most manufacturers implement something kind of like theoretical speed-density and cut corners or combine math operations in order to allow faster execution on puny computing hardware.  (Remember, most ECUs made prior to 2000 have a slower processor than the average inexpensive cellphone circa 2010)

      Sanity Checking a Speed-Density Tune

      There are a few rules that transcend particular manufacturer implementations:

      1. Volumetric efficiency rarely changes suddenly.  VE tables should almost always have very gradual changes.
      2. VE usually DECREASES as pressure DECREASES (i.e. more vacuum = less VE)
      3. VE usually maxes out at an RPM close to peak engine torque at maximum observed load, which is usually where peak cylinder filling occurs.
      4. Remember that VE tables are not the only thing that controls fueling.  Temperature correction tables (ECT, IAT) are often implemented as multiplier/divider tables.  Don’t forget about injector battery tables either! (see the separate article on Injector Tuning for more on this)
    • Theory: Speed Density, pulsewidth variants
    • Before you read this, you should already have read the articles on Injector Theory and Speed-Density.  This article will not make much sense without the background information in those articles.

      First, vocabulary:

      • ECM, ECU, Engine computer : used interchangeably to mean the computer operating the fuel injectors and running the engine
      • RPM : Revolutions Per Minute – how fast the motor is spinning
      • MAP : Manifold Absolute Pressure – (usually) the pressure of air entering the motor
      • ECT : Engine Coolant Temperature sensor – sensor used to measure the temperature of coolant circulating through a motor.  Sometimes called different things by different manufacturers.  I will use ECT here
      • IAT : Intake Air Temperature sensor – sensor used to measure the temperature of air entering the motor.  Sometimes called different things by different manufacturers.  I will use IAT here.
      • Displacement : the volume swept by a piston descending from the top to the bottom of the cylinder bore.  More here.
      • AFR : Air Fuel Ratio – the ratio of air to fuel present in a combustible mixture.  Usually stated as a ratio, i.e. 14.7:1 for the stoichiometric AFR for gasoline.  Stoichiometric AFR varies from fuel to fuel.
      • Lambda : similar to AFR, except usually expressed as a number where 1.0 represents a stoichiometric mixture for all fuels.  Lambda and AFR are the same concept expressed in different units.
      • Stoichiometric : a mixture containing the precise amount of oxidants required for complete combustion of all fuel present.  See here or here for more information on chemistry involved.
      • Ideal Gas Law : PV= nRT (Pressure times Volume equals moles of gas times ideal gas constant times temperature)  More to be read about this here.
      • Moles : a measure of how many atoms are present.  See here.
      • Induction stoke :  the part of a 4-stroke engine’s cycle in which air is drawn into the cylinder by the piston.  See here for more information if you are not familiar with a 4 stroke engine’s operation.

      Many ECMs (particularly older ones) use extremely slow processors to run an engine, especially by today’s standards.  In addition to doing all the math required by Speed-Density to calculate airflow, the processor often has many other extremely timing or IO-intensive tasks, such as processing crank and cam sensor inputs, firing spark plugs and firing injectors.  Additionally, most of these processors lacked floating-point units (short explanation: pieces of a chip that understand what fractions and decimals are) limiting their ability to accurately represent a model that involved lots of numbers with a fractional component.   Bottom line: engineers had to come up with ways to simplify and speed up the math involved in speed density in order to get older, slower, cheap microcontrollers to be able to run an engine.

      Obviously, different manufacturers implement things differently.  In the remainder of this article, we are going to explore briefly how Honda and GM simplified the ideal speed density system to make it more practical to implement on cheap hardware.

      GM: Base Pulse Width (BPW)

      Ideally, n = PV /RT and then injector pulse = n / injector flow constant

      GM introduce the concept of “Base Pulse Width” or BPW to reduce the “V” and “R” terms.  Basically, the BPW is how long the injectors need to be open in order to fill cylinders at 100% volumetric efficiency at a standardized temperature.  The BPW is then multiplied by the Volumetric Efficiency table (which is no longer a VE table in the ideal sense of the word) to determine fueling at different load and RPM conditions.  This is then modified further by coolant and intake air correction tables to account for temperature.  This cuts the number of math operations more or less in half.  The idea behind Speed-Density is being applied in a way that is less math-intensive.

      Honda: Required Fuel Value (ReqFuel)

      Ideally, n = PV /RT and then injector pulse = n / injector flow constant

      Honda took a different approach to the problem of simplifying Speed-Density.  Basically, the MAP sensor and RPM values measured by the ECU are used to index a LUT that contains (more or less) a desired fueling value.  Looking at the math above, Honda essentially pulls the final desired injector pulse (n / injector flow constant) out of a table.  This required fueling value is then scaled by various tables indexed by ECT and IAT which attempt to correct for variations in air temperature.  Honda reduces about half a dozen math operations to one table lookup and a couple of additional easy math operations.  Again, the principles of Speed-Density are being applied in a non-ideal way that attempts to capture what is going on in a way that is fast to implement on slow chips.

    • Transitioning to tuning older pre-OBD vehicles
    • A substantial portion of the folks that contact us these days aren’t totally new to tuning.  The vast majority have worked with other tools before.  HP Tuners, EFI Live, Diablosport, SCT, Sniper, Cobb are some common names I hear.  I’m going to lump all of these tools together (even though they’re very different) and collectively call them “new car tools.”  I’m going to lump TunerPro, Binary Editor and EEC Editor together (even though they’re very different and Moates doesn’t actually make any of them) into another group and call them “our tools.”  This article is going to make huge, sweeping, blatant generalizations about the differences between “our tools” and “new car tools” in an attempt to help someone who has used “new car tools” better adjust to using “our tools.”

      Automation: There is NONE

      The first and most important difference between “new car tools” and “our tools” is the level of automation that happens.  “New car tools” are comparatively automatic: they’re designed so that you can plug in (usually to the diagnostic port), press a few buttons and have a tune in front of you to start modifying or logging.  You don’t need to know what type of ECM you’re working with.  You don’t need to know which operating system or software is installed on it.   All of these important identifying tasks happen in the background behind the scenes before a shiny list of parameters is ever presented to you. Using “new car tools,” you can be largely oblivious to what the editor you are using is doing behind the scenes.  You also have little control over how these background tasks are performed because they happen behind the scenes with little to no input from you.

      This does not happen with “our tools.”  All of “our tools” are flexible applications that support multiple types of ECUs, just like “new tools.” Except there is NO AUTOMATION to speak of.  In order for you to be able to do anything useful, you need to MANUALLY configure the application to do what you want instead of having things automatically unfold in front of your eyes.  Understand that many of the same things happen in both cases but you have to be the director when using “our tools.”  To illustrate this, we’re going to dissect the process of loading a file to tune in different tools and see how they do much of the same thing in totally different ways.

      Loading a Tune File with “New Tools”

      efilive-open1

      “File…  Open tuning file” looks innocent enough.  Pick your file then click “Open”

       

      efilive-open2

      EFI Live automatically configures itself after opening a file

      EFI Live automatically detects the operating system, VIN, transmission type and more!  It automatically loads a template or definition to let you make changes to this file.  It automatically lists whether some of the important calibration controls such as Flex Fuel, Active Fuel Management, etc. are enabled.

      From the moment it is done loading the file you point it to, you’re instantly ready to go. (fine print: assuming it is compatible with the file you have shoved at it.)

      Loading a Tune File with “Our Tools”

      tprt-open1

      “File… Open Bin…” looks a lot like EFI Live did.

      Things start off looking pretty similar…

      tprt-open2

      After opening a BIN (Tune file), TunerPro displays more or less a blank slate.

      The similarities pretty much stop there.

       

      tprt-xdf1

      You have to manually load an XDF

       

      tprt-xdf2

      Choose which XDF

       

      tprt-xdf3

      With an XDF Loaded, you can edit defined parameters

      The steps of loading and selecting and XDF which must be performed manually in TunerPro in order to be able to edit parameters without using the hex editor.  Datalogging is not much different: you must manually configure TunerPro to log what you want it to log.

      tprt-adx1

      Acquisition… Load Definition File…


      tprt-adx2

      Select an ADX that matches the platform you are working with

      tprt-adx3

      Observe the list of defined parameters in the ADX

      Even after loading the right BIN, XDF and ADX files, you’re still not done!  TunerPro can operate in several different modes depending on which type of hardware you have and how you’re trying to use it.  Don’t forget to go into the Preferences and set things to suit the hardware you’re trying to use,

      tprt-preferences

      You will need to suit the preferences to suit the hardware you have

      Why So Different?

      The first thing that should stand out to you is how incredibly ‘simple’ it was to load a tune with “new car tools” compared to the many steps involved with loading a tune in “our tools.”  There are equal numbers of steps in both cases – but many of them happen automatically behind the scenes with “new tools.”  In the examples of using “our tools,” the bin file (that ends up on the chip) along with an associated definition file (XDF, ADX, “Strategy file”) have to be loaded manually.  This gives you both more control over how the process happens and more chances to screw things up.

    • Troubleshooting: APU1 / AutoPROM
    • The AutoPROM is a complex device and it can be confusing to get up and running.  This guide is intended to get you to the point where you are connecting to a vehicle and able to use its functions.  Before continuing with this guide, make sure you have the computer that you wish to use with the AutoPROM and the AutoPROM itself handy.  For the remainder of this guide, we will use the terms “APU1” and ‘AutoPROM’ interchangeably.

      Video Walkthrough

      There is a series of videos on our YouTube channel that explain some of the basics. This guide covers a little more material but feel free to look at the videos before continuing.

      Basic Connectivity

      The AutoPROM uses a USB connection to talk to your PC.  It uses the same FTDI drivers that all of our other products use.  The first step in getting the AutoPROM working is to get your PC to recognize it.

      1. Turn on the computer you want to use with the APU1 and plug the APU1 in to a free USB port.
      2. Follow the instructions in the USB troubleshooting guide to ensure the device is recognized by Windows.
      3. Although it is mentioned in the guide above, make sure the APU1 is using a COM port between 1 and 8!  This is CRITICAL for some older software.
      4. The rest of the troubleshooting guides in this guide will assume that you have basic USB connectivity.

      A Visual Guide

      The APU1 has a lot of switches that controls how it behaves and it is critical to get the switches in the correct position for the device to work.  The following picture gives an overview of the switches and what they do.  (Click to enlarge)

      APU1 Legend Picture

      Each way you can use the APU1 will now be discussed.  Refer back to the picture above if you are unclear from the description in each section.

      Using the APU1 as a Chip Programmer

      The APU1 can be used to program chips.  It functions almost identically to the BURN1/BURN2 products that we sell, using the same software and procedures.

      1. Make sure the APU1 is connected to your PC and has a COM port between 1 and 8
      2. Make sure the 28 pin ribbon cable used for emulation is UNPLUGGED from the unit. Unpredictable behavior can result from the APU1 being directly connected to a ECM using the emulation cable while burning chips.
      3. Make sure the outer horizontal switch is ‘towards the USB port’ position. (APU1 mode. Other position is passthrough mode, identical to ALDU1).  Chip programming software will NOT be able to connect to the AutoPROM unless this switch is set correctly!!!
      4. Fire up TunerPro RT or Flash n Burn software.  Your APU1 should be recognized and you should be able to program chips.
      5. If the APU1 is not recognized by software, try moving the mode selection switch again.  Verify the the USB is being recognized correctly.

      Using the APU1 as an Emulator (realtime changes)

      The APU1 can be used as a real time chip emulator.  It functions almost identically to the Ostrich/Ostrich2 products that we sell, using the same software and procedures.

      1. Make sure the APU1 is connected to your PC and has a COM port between 1 and 8
      2. Make sure there is nothing in the ZIF socket.  Emulation will NOT work reliably unless the ZIF socket is empty!!!
      3. Make sure the outer horizontal switch is ‘towards the USB port’ position. (APU1 mode. Other position is passthrough mode, identical to ALDU1).  Emulation software will NOT be able to connect to the AutoPROM unless this switch is set correctly!!!
      4. Fire up TunerPro RT or EmUtility software.  Your APU1 should be recognized and you should be able to upload a tune to it.
      5. If the APU1 is not recognized by software, try moving the mode selection switch again.  Verify the the USB is being recognized correctly.

      Datalogging while using Emulation at the Same Time (logging and realtime changes)

      The APU1 can be used for datalogging while simultaneously performing chip emulation.  When used in this manner it is the most capable tools that we sell for tuning OBD1 GM Vehicles.

      1. Make sure the APU1 is connected to your PC and has a COM port between 1 and 8
      2. Make sure there is nothing in the ZIF socket.  Emulation will NOT work reliably unless the ZIF socket is empty!!!
      3. Make sure the outer horizontal switch is ‘towards the USB port’ position. (APU1 mode. Other position is passthrough mode, identical to ALDU1).  Chip programming software will NOT be able to connect to the AutoPROM unless this switch is set correctly!!!
      4. Fire up TunerPro RT or Flash n Burn software.  Your APU1 should be recognized and you should be able to upload tunes.
      5. If the APU1 is not recognized by software, try moving the mode selection switch again.  Verify the the USB is being recognized correctly.
      6. Next, make double check TunerPro’s configuration for logging.  Start by going to Tools…Preferences
      7. Next, Tab over to the Data Acq. /Emulation tab. (red arrow)  Make sure that “AutoProm/MAFTPro” is selected for Interface Type.

         

        APU1 tunerpro settings

      8. Make sure you have the correct XDF and ADX file loaded for your vehicle, plug everything in and give it a go!
      9. If you have trouble connecting, check the other switch on the APU1.  Older applications that use 160baud require the in/up ”10k across A-B” setting.  Later TPI, LTI and TBI applications use 8192 baud which requires the switch to be in the out/center =”open between A-B” position.  If you just want to check codes, the down position will cause codes to flash.

      Using the APU1 for Logging Only

      As you have seen above, the APU1 is a versatile device that can be used for many purposes.  However TunerPro is the only software that knows how to use any of the advanced features of the APU1, so it is necessary to put the APU1 into a “pass through” mode when using other software.  In these cases, the APU1 functions solely as an ALDL logging interface.

      1. Make sure the APU1 is connected to your PC and has a COM port between 1 and 8.  It will be necessary for you to know which COM port the APU1 is using to configure it properly.
      2. Make sure the outer horizontal switch is ‘away from the USB port’ position. (Passthrough mode, identical to ALDU1. Other position is APU1 mode for TunerPro.)  Legacy software will NOT be able to connect to the vehicle unless this switch is set correctly!!!
      3. We’re going to walk through the TunerPro RT configuration steps to use this mode.  Your APU1 will NOT be recognized by TunerPro RT software in this mode.  If you’re not using TunerPro, skip to step 9.
      4. If the APU1 is recognized by software at startup, try moving the mode selection switch again.  Verify the the USB is being recognized correctly.
      5. Next, make double check TunerPro’s configuration for logging.  Start by going to Tools…Preferences
      6. Next, Tab over to the Data Acq. /Emulation tab. (red arrow)  Make sure that “Use Plug-in” is selected for Interface Type.  Make sure “TunerPro Data Acquisition I/O Interface” is selected under the component drop down box.
      7. Then click the “Configure Plug-in Component” box (green arrow).
      8. Make sure that “Standard Serial” is selected (green arrow) and the COM port of your APU1 is selected (blue arrow)
      9. If you are NOT using TunerPro RT, you should be able to start your software of choice and configure it to use the COM port of your APU1 (COM2 in this example)
      10. If you have trouble connecting, check the other switch on the APU1.  Older applications that use 160baud require the in/up ”10k across A-B” setting.  Later TPI, LTI and TBI applications use 8192 baud which requires the switch to be in the out/center =”open between A-B” position.  If you just want to check codes, the down position will cause codes to flash.

      “First Edition” AutoPROMs

      Very early editions of this unit feature a different switch configuration.

      first gen apu1

      These units have a horizontal switch and a vertical switch.

      For the horizontal switch, outbound is passthrough mode and inbound is APU1 mode.

      The vertical switch has three positions.  It controls the behavior of the datalogging interface, much like the inner switch on newer models. 10k is the up position, open is the middle position, and short (check codes) is the down position.

      These units also use a different style cable to connect the APU1 to the vehicle.  We no longer sell this style of cable.

    • Troubleshooting: BURN1/BURN2
    • The following is something which can be applied to anyone trying to troubleshoot a BURN1, BURN2, or APU1 with respect to chip programming. It is also useful to get the USB device drivers correctly configured.

      It is unlikely that your chip or burner has failed, such events are actually quite rare. All devices are fully tested for all functionality prior to shipment.

      We have many folks that send their units back to us, but very few that actually exhibit failure during bench testing once they arrive.

      However, it is possible that something is wrong with your procedures.

      Please utilize the following test matrix. This should take about 5 minutes:

      1) Disconnect all USB devices, close all software, and re-install USB drivers.  See here.  If you suspect that your drivers may be confused, use the FTCLEAN procedure outlined here.

      2) Re-connect the Moates device, and allow the drivers to associate with it. Wait about 30 seconds.

      3a) Go into the Windows Device Manager, and look under ‘Ports(COM/LPT)’. If there is a ‘USB Serial Port’ listed, right-click on it and select ‘Properties’. If not, carry out step ‘3b’ on this list first.

      3b) If you saw the ‘USB Serial Port’ from step (3a) then go directly to Step 4. If not, then expand your ‘Universal Serial Bus controllers’ section, and right-click on the ‘USB Serial Converter’. Go to the ‘Advanced’ tab, and check the box indicated as ‘Load VCP’. Then hit ‘OK’, unplug the device, and plug it back in. You should then be able to carry out (3a) successfully.

      4) Go to the ‘Port Settings’ tab and then click the ‘Advanced’ button. Change the COM port setting on the pull-down to COM4, COM5, or COM6, regardless of ‘in use’ warnings. Accept any warnings. If you are running multiple devices (for instance an Ostrich and BURN2), make sure you assign different COM port numbers to each of them. But, make sure your COM port assignments are in the range of COM4-COM8. Also, while you’re on this page, change your ‘Latency timer’ to 1mS via pulldown. Click OK to apply all settings and close all Windows Control Panel sub-windows. If you like, you can unplug and replug the USB cable to the device to verify that it appears in the list with the new settings.

      5) Download and install the latest version of Flash-n-Burn from here:
      http://tunerpro.net/download/SetupFlashBurn.exe
      Note: If you’re working with an APU1, check the back and make sure the horizontal switches are placed in the ‘outboard’ position, away from the USB connection.

      6) Download a 64k ‘test’ bin from here:
      http://static.moates.net/zips/00-512-TEST.zip
      Unzip it, and open the FlashBurn software.

      7) Within the FlashBurn software, make sure the chip burner is recognized in the white dialog window. Select 27SF512 on the top left, and load the 64k ‘test’ file to the buffer. Make sure that the file size displayed in the dialog window is 65,536 bytes. If you’re loading a 32k file (like for Hondas etc), make sure the file size is 32,768 exactly.

      8) The addressing should auto-select on the top right, but make sure it is correct. Chip addressing should be 000000-00FFFF. Buffer addressing should also be 000000-00FFFF. If you are loading a 32k file rather than the test file, make sure chip addressing is 008000-00FFFF and buffer addressing is 000000-007FFF.

      9) Insert the chip into the socket, with the notch (pin 1) facing up toward the ZIF handle and USB cable. Make sure the chip is positioned furthest away from the handle and USB, such that the 4 empty slots are closest to the handle.

      10) Select ‘erase chip’ and ‘blank check’. Verify that these steps were successful. Look up again at you addressing, and make sure it matches what is specified in step (8).

      11) Select ‘program chip’ and then ‘verify chip’. Make sure you have success in the dialog box.

      At this point, if everything checks out, you have illustrated that your chip and programmer are working correctly. If any of these steps fail, please send us a screen capture of the part of the process which failed, and we’ll do what we can to help you troubleshoot further.

      Other problems can come from corrupt, incorrectly sized, or mismatched binaries for target application, incorrect chip and buffer addressing for a given file size, or incorrect COM port settings within the client software (such as Crome, etc).

      For the burner itself, typical ‘next step’ troubleshooting would include taking apart the enclosure, blowing it out with compressed air to remove any metallic dust that might have accumulated, gently prying loose the ZIF socket to make sure there are no bent pins underneath where it snaps in, trying a different USB cable, trying a different chip, or trying a different PC or USB port.

      Certainly if there is a true hardware failure, we’ll be glad to take care of it at no cost, but we doubt you want to spend time shipping back and forth if there isn’t a real hardware fault.

    • Troubleshooting: BURN2 Verification Failed
    • If you receive the dreaded “Verification Failed” message after trying to program a chip with the BURN2, there are only a few possible reasons.

      1. Fake chips.  There are lots of fake 27SF512 chips floating around.  We have a whole article about this.  If you didn’t buy your chips from us, you need to seriously consider this.
      2. Bad chip.  Try another chip.  If you have the same results from more than one genuine chip, it’s probably not the chip.
      3. ZIF connection. The ZIF socket with the metal handle on the BURN2 is not soldered to the main circuit board.  It’s a press-fit item.  Over time, the action of raising and lowering the handle can work the ZIF loose enough to have issues but not “feel” loose.  Put the burn2 on a flat surface.   Push down on either end of the ZIF with your thumbs firmly to try and re-seat the socket.  Test again after.
      4. The solder joints between the DIP32 socket and the PCB can be problematic.  The BURN2 experiences mechanical stress on the solder connections every time you lift or close the handle.  Over time, you’ll crack them.  If you feel like touching up the solder on them, it is often an easy repair.  Try NOT to add any more solder unless you absolutely have to.  The idea is just to melt the solder again so it can bond with the metal pins and circuit board.  This video seemed to be pretty good: https://youtu.be/5F4sX2Pn-Iw
      5. If you are still having issues, or don’t feel up to doing the repairs yourself, warranty service may be an option.  Don’t be afraid to try repairs – we’ll still do warranty work on units where you have attempted and failed to repair.  Contact us to arrange for warranty replacement.

       

      Another problem that isn’t as common but we still see are BURN2s that will not erase a chip.  After a “Blank Check” operation, the software reports “Chip is NOT Blank”  There are two strong possibilities for this fault:

      1. Fake chips.  The Winbond chips that are most commonly used as fake 27SF512 chips cannot be erased by the BURN2 because they require a different voltage to erase than the 27SF512 chips that the BURN2 was designed for.  If you didn’t buy your chips from us, carefully check to make sure you don’t have fake chips.
      2. Defective voltage  circuit in BURN2.  The circuit that generates the erase voltage in the BURN2 can fail.  If it does, you’ll still be able to read chips but erase operations will fail.  This is not something you can easily repair – contact us to arrange for warranty replacement.
    • Troubleshooting: DORESET, the Demon/Ostrich reset utility
    • The Demon and Ostrich can sometimes get stuck in an odd state.  This utility will allow you to reset them to a known state.

      Download link  Download link 2

      In order to get a device back into a sane state, you need to CHANGE the vendor ID (which software it is set up for).  Once you have changed the vendor ID, unplug, count to three, plug back in.  You’ll probably have to answer “yes” to a few dialog boxes about setting up the hardware when you next use your software of choice.

    • Troubleshooting: HULOG/CROME datalogging issues
    • While it may look simple, getting the Honda logging cables we sell to work with CROME can be quite challenging.  This document aims to provide troubleshooting steps to ensure you get up and running.  Drivers and ports on your laptop, CROME settings, chip contents and ECU hardware all come into play.  “HULOG” and “Hondalog” will be used interchangeably in this document to mean the FTDI based cables and adapters we have sold.

      ECU Hardware Preparation

      Three things must be done to your ECU for the Hondalog to work:

      1. A 4 pin male header must be installed (“CN2” in most cases).  This occupies pins 1 – 4 of a 5 pin header presen on the ECU.
      2. A jumper that controls logging must be removed.  This is J12 on US/Euro “big case” ECUs and J4 on JDM “small case” ECUs.  Failure to remove this jumper will prevent proper communication.
      3. The ECU must be chipped!  As of writing (June 2016) there are no programs available that will log with stock ECU programs.  You must chip the ECU in order to change the way it communicates.

      Drivers and Ports on Your Laptop

      The Hondalog is a USB -> TTL converter that looks like a legacy serial port called a COM port to your computer. Your computer talks to it like it is a serial communications port. It uses either the FTDI FT232R or FT232A (old versions only) chips. Either way, all models use the FTDI drivers. If you are running Windows 98, 2000 or XP you probably want to use these drivers. If you are using Vista, you may want to consider using the latest drivers published by FTDI, which you can find here.  If you are running W7, W8, W8.1 or W10, chances are you are running the latest WHQL drivers Windows could download off the internet.  Most of the time, the latest WHQL drivers will work fantastic but alternate older versions of the VCP Driver are available from http://www.ftdichip.com

      The first step towards getting your Hondalog working is to get it to appear as a COM port in device manager. Make sure your cable is plugged in to one of your computer’s USB ports.  To open device manager, you can usually right click on My Computer (either on desktop or in start menu) and then choose properties. Then click the hardware tab, then click the “Device Manager” button. Give it a few seconds to start, especially on older computers. Once you have device manager open, scroll down and click on the “Ports” section. You may see a few ports built in to your computer listed. Plug in the Hondalog adapter. You should see an addition COM port appear labeled “USB Serial Device” which is your Hondalog cable.  If you have more than one or you aren’t sure which belongs to your cable, unplug and re-plug the cable.  You should see a COM port appear and disappear along with the cable being plugged in.

      If this does not happen:

      1. A device with a yellow exclamation mark next to it has a problem. You can click properties to find out more information, but Windows generally doesn’t give you very useful information. Most of the time, a device in this state has driver issues. Try reloading the drivers.
      2. If you get a “Unknown Device” with a yellow exclamation mark that appears elsewhere, you probably do not have any drivers installed.  Try reloading the drivers.
      3. If you get a red “x” by the icon for your device, you have disabled the device. Right click on the device and select “enable” to restore it to functioning.
      4. If you are still having trouble, take a look at this guide which goes into a little more detail about how to resolve USB issues.
      5. You can also contact Moates support.  Make sure you have an internet connection and your laptop+cable handy when you call please.

      If you have gotten this far, I am going to assume your Hondalog is connected to your computer and it is being correctly detected as a COM port. I am going to assume that your Hondalog is on COM3 for the remainder of this document. You need to substitute the port that your device uses if it is not COM3!

      (Note: If your device grabs a COM port greater than 16, some software seems to struggle. In fact, some software struggles with a port above 8! Bottom line: if you are having trouble and your device uses a COM port greater than 8, right click on the device in device manager, select properties and then advanced settings to change the COM port to an available port less than or equal to 8 before continuing.)

      Configure CROME

      CROME free does not log.  CROME Pro/Dealer is required.  We do not sell it – contact xenocron.com or tunewithcrome.com if you require a license.

      CROME Pro does not automatically do anything.  You need to go into its settings and tell it three important things for logging to work:

      1. Which COM port it should use to communicate with the ECU
      2. How fast it communicates (Baud Rate)
      3. Which protocol (language) it should try to speak.

      You should know the answer to #1 from your trip through device manager above.

      As for #2, baud rate should always be 38400 unless you know better, in which case you can ignore this advice.

      Number 3 gets trickier.   The selection here must match the contents of your chip!

      • As a rule of thumb, the QuickDLRTP.js and addDatalogging.js scripts included with CROME need the QD2 protocol.
      • As a rule of thumb, the CROME “Gold” ROM uses the QD3 protocool.
      • Non-Pro/Dealer versions of CROME sometimes fail to apply the datalogging scripts properly.  Why?  I don’t know.  Perhaps to be tricky?  Beware of doing this!
      • Beware! Some versions of the datalogging javascript make changes to how the ROM operates for fuel/ign as well as just adding logging.  Why?  I don’t know.  Double check your tune after applying any scripts.
      • There have been several versions of the datalogging scripts which set the ROM up for logging.  It is often hard to tell which is which because there is little or no version control and the scripts are sometimes encrypted/obfuscated.  Unfortunately, it matters which version is present in a ROM.
      • DIFFERENT VERSIONS OF CROME EXPECT DIFFERENT SCRIPT VERSIONS!  Do NOT use scripts from prior versions of CROME.  Be prepared to start with a stock ROM and re-apply the logging scripts in order to get logging working with a current/new version of CROME.  Even if your ROM once worked with the QD2 protocol and CROME is configured for a QD2 protocol now does not mean it will work now.
      • There have been totally broken versions of CROME.  Make sure you are using an up to date version and check on the pgmfi.org forums to make sure other users are having success with the version you are using.

      ***IMPORTANT!!!  IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH PROTOCOL YOU WANT TO USE.  IT MATTERS WHICH ONE IS INSTALLED IN THE CHIP/OSTRICH***  If you did not make your chip, you need to talk to the person who did to find out what they did.  If the adddatalogging.js plugin was not installed, you’re not logging.  Bottom line: you need to know what is in your chip to know what to select.  The end.

      ROM / BIN Modifications

      As noted above in the section on configuring a protocol, CROME cannot speak to a factory Honda bin.  They do not speak the same language.  If you are using an unchipped ECU, it must be chipped.  If you are using a chipped ECU, these instructions apply equally to those using a physical chip and an Ostrich (or even a Demon/Demon II).  Specific modifications (in the form of the AddDatalogging.js, etc. scripts in CROME) are needed to prepare a ROM to communicate with CROME.

      Again, IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT THE ROM YOU ARE USING BE MODIFIED WITH A COMPATIBLE DATALOGGING PLUG-IN!  DO NOT ASSUME THAT YOUR BIN HAS THE RIGHT SOFTWARE BECAUSE IT WORKED WITH AN EARLIER VERSION OF CROME!!!

      If you aren’t sure, start with a stock bin, re-apply the logging patches, remove the checksum and bring over your changes from the old tune.

    • Troubleshooting: Ostrich
    • General Troubleshooting Procedure

      The first thing you should do if you are having trouble with the Ostrich is to follow the instructions in the “USB Troubleshooting Guide” which you can find here – for the rest of this guide, it is assumed that your Ostrich has been assigned a COM port and you have selected the appropriate settings for it in device manager.

      The ostrich is a ROM emulator – this means that it is designed to look like an EPROM to a target system, like your ECU. If you have a working ROM Burner (such as the BURN1 or BURN2) you can quickly and easily test your hardware. We will be using the BURN1 programmer and an Ostrich 2.0 in the following example, but any ROM burner that can read 27C512 EPROMs will work. The Ostrich 1.0 works identically to the Ostrich 2.0. Follow the “Hardware Test Instructions” to verify that your Ostrich hardware is working correctly.

      If you’re reasonably certain that your hardware is working right but you still can’t get the Ostrich working with your ECU / ECM of choice, take a look at the “Software Setup” section for hints and writeups on using the Ostrich with particular applications.

      Hardware Test Instructions

      1. For this test, download a 64k ‘test’ bin from here:
        http://static.moates.net/zips/00-512-TEST.zip
        Unzip it and save the file somewhere you can find it.
      2. For this test, you will need your ROM burner software installed and working. (in this case, Flash and Burn). We will also be using TunerPro RT for uploading files to the Ostrich. Even if you do not usually use TunerPro RT, please use it for this test as it is known to communicate with the Ostrich flawlessly.
      3. First check: TunerPro RT should say something in the lower window about finding an Ostrich. If your Ostrich shows up in device manager as a COM port but TunerPro RT does not detect it, you probably have a defective unit and need to RMA it.
      4. Next check: The Ostrich2 has different modes of operation for 28 and 32 pin operation, both electronically and with switches. Ensure that both switches are set to the 28 pin position. Make sure the “Emulation Banks” toolbar is visible in TunerPro.
      5. The Ostrich should be set for Bank 0 for 28 pin operation. Try setting the Ostrich to Full 4Mbit (or Bank 8 for 32 pin operation) and back to Bank 0 (for 28 pin operation) to be sure your Ostrich is not stuck on an incorrect bank.  It is important to CHANGE this setting, even if it looks correct initially.
        TunerPro bank selection
      6. Quit TunerPro.  Download the DORESET program and run it.  (It’s pretty simple and self explanatory.)  Even if you haven’t used one of these programs, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to run this just-in-case an incorrect vendor ID got set somehow.  After you are done, quit the DORESET utility.
      7. Re-open TunerPro RT.  Now it is time to load a file.  In order to verify with Tunerpro, you need to first load a XDF  and a binary that *should* work together.  Doing a verify with Tuner Pro without loading a XDF can result in unpredictable behavior.  You can find an assortment of bins and XDFs on TunerPro’s website in the definitions section.  Try to choose a bin/XDF pair where the bin files are the same size as the files you are trying to use.  i.e. 4k, 16k, 32k, 64k
      8.  Open a binary file that is the same size as you use in your ECU. Click the button with an up arrow on it to upload the file to your Ostrich. You should see the status bar in Tuner Pro flash as the file uploads. (Note: this will be very fast – under a second usually)
      9. Now do a verify in Tuner Pro.
      10. TunerPro will automatically update the checksum on a file loaded according to the current XDF before doing a full upload to the emulator.  This can cause a false-failure when you are trying to use a ROM burner to check the Ostrich.  For the next test, we want to disable this behavior.  The easiest way to do this is to go to the ‘XDF’ menu and select “New XDF” which will create a new, blank XDF without a checksum to update.
      11. Go to the “File” menu and open your test bin AGAIN.  Ignore any warnings from TunerPro – No you do NOT want to save.
      12. Click the “Upload” arrow like you did previously to upload the bin to the emulator, this time with your new blank XDF.
      13. Disconnect your ostrich’s USB cable from the PC. Connect your ROM burner and fire up its software. Connect the socket at the end of the Ostrich’s ribbon cable in your ROM burner like it was an EPROM.
      14. Make sure the switch on your Ostrich 2.0 is set to the appropriate setting for the cable you are using.  if you are using a 28 pin cable, both switches should be towards where the USB cable plugs into the Ostrich.   (the Ostrich1 didn’t have external switches)
      15. In your ROM burner’s software, load the same file that you uploaded to your Ostrich using TunerPro RT. Make sure you choose an EPROM that is the same size as the file you are uploading (i.e.  27SF512 for 64k)
      16. Perform the “Verify” function. If your Ostrich is working correctly, the Ostrich should “verify” successfully. If it failed to verify on the first try, try again.  Sometimes the Ostrich needs an opportunity to power up before it becomes available.  If your Ostrich passes this test, it is 100% working and you should do a happy dance!
      17. If your Ostrich failed the “Verify” in the ROM burner software, try plugging the USB cord from your Ostrich back in to your PC and repeating the Verify test in your ROM burner software. If the Ostrich passes the test when the USB cord is plugged in but it fails when it is unplugged, one of the ground or power pins on the socket is damaged. Carefully inspect the socket for broken pins. Carefully inspect the ribbon cable for frayed or damaged wires. Emulation cables (see here) can be ordered at a fraction of the cost of a new unit.  Also – double check your switches!  Switches can cause the Ostrich to verify with USB plugged in and fail to verify with it unpluged.
      18. If your Ostrich does not verify with the USB cable connected to the computer but you did pass the earlier verify in TunerPro RT, there is a problem with the Ostrich communicating down the ribbon cable with the target system. Look at the ribbon cable with the socket VERY carefully. Are there any broken pins? (this is very common) If you are sure that your cable is good but your Ostrich still fails this test, it will have to be RMAed.

      Software Setup

      How to setup Ostrich in CROME

      (more will be added here later)

    • Troubleshooting: Switches
    • Many of our products have physical switches on them to change device behavior.  Unfortunately, we’ve noticed quite a few problems related to these switches.  Over time, sometimes switches fail to behave as you would expect them to.  We suspect this is due to oxidation on the contacts, dust or another slow-acting cause.

       

      Affected Devices

      These devices use the switches which are known to have issues:

      • AutoProm / APU1
      • Ostrich2
      • ALDU1

       

      Solution

      Fortunately, the solution to switch glitching is really easy.  Sliding the switch back and forth vigorously 5-10 times has been successful in restoring normal operation.

    • Troubleshooting: USB Drivers 101
    • About Moates USB Products

      Almost all Moates.net products have a USB interface to connect to a computer. (ALDU1, HULOG, Hondalog, BURN1/2, Ostrich 1/2, Roadrunner, Quarterhorse, Jaybird) Fortunately, all Moates.net products with a USB interface use the same USB support chip so they can all use the same drivers. This makes it easy for you – one driver install will take care of ALL Moates products! Check out USB Driver Installation for more on how to reinstall drivers.

      The chip in our devices is made by a company called FTDI. This chip is VERY common and is used in everything from USB-serial and USB-parallel adapters sold in computer stores to other automotive electronics products. This is important because of the possibility of a driver conflict between drivers for your Moates.net devices and other devices that also use the FTDI chips. AEM FIC, Hondata S300 and K-Pro and the USB Instruments Stingray and Swordfish (among others) have a tendency to obliterate our drivers and cause driver conflicts. Be warned: the troubleshooting instructions later on this page may cause other devices that use the FTDI chips to stop working. Tip: If you start having driver conflicts, installing the latest drivers from FTDI will often be enough to resolve conflicts and make everything work again.

      Making Sure Everything is Working and Configured

      First step to making sure you don’t have a connection issue is to unplug all USB devices that are not absolutely necessary from your computer.

      First, Right click on My Computer. (You might find this on the desktop, you might find this in your start menu. Desktop pictured)

      Next, go to the Hardware tab and select “Device Manager.” (note: Windows XP is pictured, but the exact placement of device manager may vary slightly in Win98 and Vista)

      Next, go to the “Ports” section of device manager and click the + sign next to it to open it, if it is not already open. You should see something like this:

      Now plug in ONE of your Moates.net devices. We are going to plug them in one at a time to figure out which ports Windows is assigning to them. Assuming everything is working, you should see something like this in device manager:

      The “USB Serial Port” device pictured is using COM10. Some software has issues with COM ports greater than 8, so the first thing we are going to do is change the port it uses to a port less than 8. Looking at device manager, you can see that Bluetooth Communications Port has used COM5 and a Communications Port has used COM1. We should not use either of these ports. We are going to change to COM3, which is unused. First step: right click on the “USB Serial Port” device and click “Properties.”

      Next, click on the “Port Settings” tab at the top of the Window.

      Next click the “Advanced” button.

      On this screen, there are several things to change. First change the COM Port Number to COM3, the port we decided was open. If all of your ports say “in use” you can still select them, but it is recommended you find an unused port under 8. Second, set the Latency Timer to 1 msec. When you are done, click OK on this screen and the driver screen that follows until you are back at Device Manager.

      These are the optimal settings for our devices (COM1 – COM8 and Latency = 1ms). If you had trouble, try again with these settings. Remember which port your device was using in device manager when it comes time to configure your tuning software.

      Common Issues with USB Drivers and Connections

      It is possible to disable devices in Windows. Sometimes this can happen accidentally. If a device is disabled, it has a red X across its icon, like the Bluetooth Communications Port in this picture.

      To enable it, right click on the device and select “Enable.” Afterwards, the device should not have a red X across its icon.

      Devices can also have issues loading or have device driver problems. When this happens, a yellow exclamation mark appears. Almost 100% of the time, this is a sign that you need to reinstall device drivers. If a simple reinstall does not fix the issue, there is a more heavyhanded method to reinstall drivers using FTCLEAN.


    • Tuner Pro RT v5: Using TPRT with QuarterHorse
    • The QuarterHorse Ford tuning tool is supported by TunerPro RT version 5 and newer.  This document will briefly cover the steps necessary for using the QuarterHorse with TunerPro RT.

      General Setup

      First, the QuarterHorse must have its drivers properly installed.  The QuarterHorse uses the same FTDI device drivers as most of our other products.  Please see the USB Device installation article for more information on installing drivers.  Having the driver’s latency settings set to one will make a difference in how the QH behaves.  Visit the USB Troubleshooting 101 article to for screenshots of how to configure latency in the advanced driver options.

      TunerPro Setup

      Once the drivers are configured properly, launch TunerPro RT.

      TunerPro should make a “beep” to indicate that it found the QuarterHorse and you should see a notice indicating hardware was detected in the lower-left information bar:

      If you do not see “Found QuarterHorse vX.XX” go back to the USB troublehshooting guide.  TunerPro will need to have found your QH to continue with this guide.

      Next up, we need to configure TunerPro to use the same port for datalogging and emulation.  Go to the Tools menu and select preferences.  Once you are looking at the preferences, select the Data Acq./Emulation tab:

      In this screen, there are three options you need to set.  First, choose “Use Plug-in” for the interface Type.  Second, click the “Configure Plug-in Component” box.  Third, choose “Shared With Emulator” and then click OK several times to get back to the main application.

      Finally, you need to make sure you have the appropriate XDF and ADX files loaded.  Support for the QuarterHorse has to be made specially for Ford definitions.  You can find the latest definitions that we maintain here or visit EFI Dyno Tuning for another source of definitions.  You can also browse TunerPro’s website for others but be warned – most of the definitions on TunerPro’s site will NOT support datalogging with a QH.

    • TunerPro RT
    • Tuner Pro is a piece of software written by Mark Mansur that is compatible with a great number of vehicles and ECUs.

      Download TunerPro here

      Originally written to modify GM and Ford binaries, the uniqueness of TunerPro is its ability to have Definitions. While this adds a slight layer of complexity to the end user, the definition files (XDF) instruct TunerPro as to where tables and variables reside within the binary it is opening, allowing TunerPro to be compatible with virtually any binary.

      Currently definitions are available for the following Vehicles at least as of 9/30/08, more being added regular (see http://www.tunerpro.net website for all the latest)::

       

      General Motors

      Mask ID
      ECM
      Bin Definition
      ALDL Definition
      Application
      $6E
      1227165
      6E.xdf
      1227165_6E.ads
      1989 LB9/L98 F & Y Body (Bins)
      $8D
      1227730
      Super_8dm2.ecu
      1227730_8D.ads
      90-91 LB9/L98 F-Body
      $32
      1227165
      32.ecu
      1227165_160.ads
      86 5.0/5.7 F & Y Body
      $32B
      1227165
      32Bv001.ecu
      1227165_160.ads
      87-88 5.0/5.7 F & Y Body
      $42
      1227747
      7747-mine.ecu
      1227747_42.ads
      1987-1991 5.0 Truck, Etc
      $31
      16197427/16156930
      TBD
      95 C/K Truck/Van 5.7/7.4
      $5D
      1227808
      TBD
      88 Australian Holden
      $12
      16183082
      TBD
      ’93+ Australian Holden V8
      $DA3
      16159278
      93 LT1
      $0D
      16197427
      0D_v1_02.xdf
      0D.ads
      94-95 C/K 4.3L, 5.7L & 7.4L
      $83
      16176424/16195699
      83HoldenVS_V8_v2.xdf
      TBD
      96 Holden VS V8
      $61
      1228746
      61v2.xdf
      TBD
      89-92 F & B Body LO3 & LO5 – Maintained by Jon Prevost
      $E6
      16168625
      E6.xdf
      93 5.7L L05 K Truck
      $8F
      1227727/1227730
      8F.xdf 8F_v2.xdf
      89-90 LG5 3100 Turbo.ads
      89-90 3.1L Turbo (TGP)
      $31T
      1227148
      TBD
      1227148TBuick.ads
      87-90 3.8L Turbo (LC2) Buick
      $1FA
      16196387
      TBD
      1FA.ads
      94-95 3.1L W-body (Grand Prix, Monte,…)

       

      Ford (requires v4.13 or higher)

      ID
      Bin Definition
      Last Updated
      Application
      T23B
      T23B.xdf
      5/29/08

      8UA – 88 2.3l Thunderbird auto
      LB3 – 87-88 2.3l Thunderbird auto
      LA3 – 88 2.3l Thunderbird 5sp

      Definition maintained by Dex

      GUFA
      GUFA.xdf
      4/12/08

      8LD – ’88 – ’93 5.0l Mustangs
      A9S – ’88 – ’93 5.0l Mustangs

      Definition maintained by Dex

      GUFB (A9L)
      GUFB.xdf
      4/12/08

      A9L – 88-92 Mustang 5.0L
      A9M – ’89 – ’93 5.0l Mustang
      A3M – 93 5.0 Mustang
      A3M1 – 93 5.0 Mustang
      A3M2 – 93 5.0 Mustang
      D3D1 – 89-93 5.0 Mustang
      S0Z – 89-93 5.0 Mustang
      X3Z – 93 5.0 Cobra

      Definition maintained by Dex

      GUF1
      GUF1.xdf
      4/12/08
      A9P – ’89 – ’92 5.0l Mustang auto
      A9T – ’89 – ’93 5.0l Mustang auto
      C3W – ’93 5.0l Mustang auto
      C3W1 – ’93 5.0l Mustang auto
      8LF – ’88 – ’93 5.0l CA Mustang auto

       

      Definition maintained by Dex
      CDAN4
      CDAN4.xdf
      1/23/06

      96-97 4.6L Mustang, T-Bird, Crown Vic
      96-97 3.8L Mustang

      NOTE: This XDF is for “full” binaries. Only 256k 0189 EEC-V files should be used.

      CRAJ0
      CRAJ0.xdf
      8/15/06
      LAQ2 – 98 3.8l Mustang
      AOL2 – 98 4.6l 4V Mustang
      AOL3 – 98 4.6l 4V Mustang
      CBAZA
      CBAZA.xdf
      10/1/07

      L4C1 – 94-95 5.0l Mustang 5sp export market
      J4J1 – 94-95 5.0l Mustang Cobra 5sp
      T4M0 – 94-95 5.0l Mustang 5sp
      U4P0 – 94-95 5.0l Mustang auto
      W4H0 – 94-95 5.0l Mustang auto
      ZA0 – 95 5.8 Mustang Cobra R 5sp
      FCL0 – 95 5.0l Mustang auto Japan market
      S4M1 – 5.0l auto

      LUX0
      LUX0.xdf
      12/12/07
      DA1 – ’87 Mustang 5.0L
      DB1 – ’88 Mustang 5.0L
      L8
      IAW048_01.xdf
      3/19/08
      Sierra Sapphire 4wd Cosworth L8
      L1
      IAW045_01.xdf
      3/19/08
      Sierra 3 door Cosworth L1
      L6
      IAW045_06.xdf
      3/19/08
      Sierra Sapphire 2wd Cosworth L6
      HWAD3
      HWAD3.xdf
      8/21/08
      6DBD – 1998 Futura/GLI, 4.0L, auto
      6DNB – 1998 GLI, 4.0L, auto
      6TEE – 1998 XR6 Ghia, 4.0L, auto

       

      May also work with:
      6DAC – 1998, unknown, 4.0L, manual (HWMD3 strat.)
      6DMA – 1997 XR6, 4.0L, auto (HWAC2 strat.)

      (Requires 256KB bin with first 8KB to be null-padded)

      N4AGB
      N4AGB.xdf
      8/26/08
      4DBG – 1995 Futura/GLI, 4.0L, auto
      4TEG – 1995 Futura/GLI, 4.0L, LPG

       

      May also work with:
      4TBD – 1994 Fairmont Ghia, 4.0L, auto (N4AG9 strat.)

      (Requires 256KB bin with first 8KB to be null-padded)

       

      Subaru (Requires v4.13 or higher)

      ID
      Bin Definition
      Last Updated
      Application
      N/A
      0405WRX.xdf
      2/12/06
      04-05 USDM WRX

       

      Nissan

      ID
      Bin Definition
      Last Updated
      Application
      B13/S13
      B13RT.xdf
      3/23/07
      1996-1997 B13 w/ Realtime
      Z32
      Z32.xdf
      8/29/06
      90-95 300ZX (8-bit ECU only)

       

      Porsche (Motronic)

      ID
      Bin Definition
      Last Updated
      Application
      N/A
      87Porsche911-4KChip.xdf
      6/27/08
      ’87 911 w/ 4KB chip (Bins)
      N/A
      6/27/08
      ’84-’86 911 w/ 2KB or 4KB chip (Bins)

       

      DSM (Eagle/Mitsubishi)

      ID
      Bin Definition
      Last Updated
      Application
      1G E931
      e931stk.xdf
      9/10/06
      1991 Talon AWD (16KB bin)

      Renault

      ID
      Bin Definition
      Last Updated
      Application
      Fenix 1B
      R21T_720D.xdf
      8/19/08
      Renault 21 2.0L Turbo, 8KB ROM (27C64) (Bins)
      Fenix 3A
      Clio16S_7494.xdf
      8/19/08
      Renault Clio 16V w/o O2 Sensor, 32KB ROM (27C256)
      Fenix 3B
      Clio16S_7852.xdf
      9/02/08
      Renault Clio 16V with O2 Sensor, 32KB ROM (27C256) (Bins)
      Fenix 3
      ClioWilliams_7881.xdf
      9/02/08
      Renault Clio Williams 2.0 16v

      Registration

      You will be emailed a key file to register to the address provided with your order.  In order to do this, we need your name, address, phone number and CORRECT EMAIL.  Make sure you can check the email address you provide with your order as this is where we will send your key.  Be sure to check any spam filters.  We do not need a key or any other information from you for TunerPro RT – we simply need a valid email address.

    • TunerPro V5: Converting ADS to ADX format
    • Among other things, TunerPro RT brings a new definition format, the ADX.  This is an extended version of the previous file format, ADS.  The file formats are NOT compatible, but you can convert between them fairly simply.  Unfortunately, the automatic conversion utility in TunerPro isn’t perfect so this guide exists to help you achieve success.

      Failure to set the body length correctly (which this guide will explain) can result in periodic timeouts or errors while logging.  Generally, you will be able to initially connect but there will be seemingly random errors in the data captured.  This seems to be much worse on faster PCs.

      Procedure

      1. Open TunerPro v5.x
      2. Go to Acquisition … Import Definition … From ADS
      3. Point TunerPro at the ADS file you wish to convert.
      4. When prompted, choose a filename for the new ADX definition (this filename doesn’t really matter, just remember it)
      5. Go to Acquisition … Load Definition and point it at the file you just saved.
      6. Go to Acquisition … Edit Definition
      7. In the editor window, click on the plus next to Commands and then click on Transmit Data Reply
      8. Make sure the “Body Size (Dec)” item is 67.  In many cases, it will incorrectly get set to 66 by the automatic conversion tool.
      9. Click ‘Save’ and you’re done!  If you ever load this definition in the future, it will be ready to go.
    • Tuning: MAF systems, air leaks and reversion
    • As stated in our overview of MAF systems, one of their main weaknesses are air leaks.  Whenever air can enter the engine without going through the MAF, weird things happen.

      There are two principal kinds of leaks that wreak havoc on MAF systems – constant leaks (like a unplugged vacuum port) and mechanically induced leaks (such as a Blow Off Valve or Bypass Valve that vents to atmosphere.)  Each leak has a tendency to affect the system differently.  In this article, we will try to take a look at what “should” be happening, what changes with a leak and what kind of odd things you can look for while tuning to identify a leak.

      Reversion presents an additional problem for MAF systems.  Reversion is the technical name for when air changes direction and reverses flow.  MAFs are not one way systems – they will measure air flowing into the engine and then meter the same air flowing out of the engine when there is severe reversion, causing unreliable MAF readings.

      Constant leaks

      This kind of constant leak in a MAF system is the classic “vacuum leak” where a gasket, coupler or piece of tubing in between the MAF and the engine does not seal properly.  In this case, air can enter the engine without passing through the MAF.  Because air has entered the engine without passing through the MAF sensor, the MAF sensor reads artificially low.  An engine operating in open-loop mode will tend to run very lean.  A motor operating in closed loop will see very large positive trims as the computer uses the O2 sensors to add fuel to compensate for the lean condition.

      The air leak provides more air for the engine at idle which will make the idle rise or sometimes “hunt” or bounce around unstably.  Generally, the idle system will also try to compensate.  On Fords you will see the ISC Integrator (“Integrator”) swing negative, indicating the ECM is allowing less flow through the idle valve than is commanded in the tune.  It is very common for the Integrator to get stuck at the minimum allowed value and have the car still idle higher than commanded.

      Most MAF systems use the MAF for calculating appropriate timing values as well as fueling.  With a vacuum leak throwing off the system, the ECU thinks there is less air entering the engine than their really is.  This will mean that “load” values will be artificially low, which generally leads to timing being artificially high.  In severe situations, this combination of issues (less fuel, more timing) is a recipe for melting engine components if it goes unchecked.

      Mechanically induced leaks

      Bypass valves are the most common source of mechanically induced leaks although idle, purge and other vacuum operated solenoids can all be a problem.  MAF systems require these valves to be re-circulated so that air leaving the valve re-enters the intake AFTER the MAF so it does not get measured twice.

      Blow off valves on turbocharged vehicles are often vented to atmosphere.  This unfortunately will severely confuse a MAF system.  When the valve opens, air that has already passed through the MAF and been “counted” is released into the atmosphere instead of entering the engine.  The ECU will supply enough fuel for all the air that has passed through the MAF while only a small portion of this air actually entered the engine.   This causes the engine to run very rich and can cause stalling or other problems when letting off the gas and the BOV opens.  Once the valve closes again and the car burns off the excess fuel delivered, things slowly return to normal operation.

      Supercharger bypass valves can present the same kind of issues when they are allowed to vent to atmosphere. (or when there is a leak in the piping allowing air to recirculate.)  Failing to catch an air leak with a supercharger bypass will result in the MAF curve having a sudden change when the valve closes.  This will require complete re-tuning of the MAF transfer function once fixed so it is best to catch it early.

      Reversion

      Reversion is most common in engines with very large camshafts operating at low speeds such as close to idle.  Situations where MAFs read unreliably due to reversion can generally be greatly improved by moving the MAF further from the throttle body.  Increasing the volume of the intake between the MAF and the throttle body is also effective at smoothing out the pulses of air coming from an engine with a radical camshaft.  It is normally possible to get a reliable enough MAF signal in most circumstances.  Even extremely wild cams that draw 3-4″ of vacuum at idle can be tamed with an appropriately designed intake system.

      Another form of reversion that is troublesome to MAF systems happens with poorly designed supercharger bypass valve systems.  In most of these systems, the pipe connecting the outlet of the bypass valve connects with the inlet of the supercharger at an angle where recirculated air flows backwards through the intake.  This causes any reverse-flowing air to be metered multiple times by the MAF, leading to unreliable operation.  This can almost always be remedied by adjusting the angle of the pipe from the bypass so it points at the inlet of the supercharger directing the flow of recirculated air away from the MAF.

      Reversion is very obvious if you are logging the MAF signal. Looking at a graph of a “normal” MAF signal versus time, it will look like a line that could have been drawn without reversing the direction of travel.  The same graph of a MAF impacted by reversion will look very “shaky” and jagged, changing direction many times in a short period of time.


    • Tuning Nissans with Nismotronic – May 2014 Carlisle, PA (finished)
    • A New Class!

      We are trying out a new class for 2014 – a 3 day class centered around Nissan vehicles using the Nismotronic product.  The class will feature two days of classroom instruction and one day of hands-on dyno instruction.  The class will be held at J-K Tuning in Carlisle, PA May 23-25, 2014.

      Cost

      SPECIAL INTRODUCTORY RATE for the class will be $250.   You can pay with any of the methods that we accept on the website (Paypal, Credit Card) in advance or pay cash/money order at the door.  If you’re going to pay at the door, we ask that you purchase the class item from our website and select “Check or Money order” at checkout so we can keep an accurate headcount and reserve your spot.  All of the products that are used for the class will be available for purchase at/after the event at a discount for attendees. You can register for the event here.

      Class Overview

      Dave Blundell (Moates tech support, NEMU hardware engineer, independent tuner) will be the instructor.   Craig Moates (founder and chief engineer at Moates),  John Kerr (lead Nismotronic developer, tuner) and Dave Dunn (TunerCode developer) will be on hand to assist.

      Registration will be limited to 15 people in order to keep the class manageable and give everyone a chance to get involved and ask questions.  There will be a mixture of classroom instruction, live in-car demonstration of logging techniques with street driving and dyno tuning and techniques.  Forced induction and naturally aspirated modifications and tuning will be covered.  We expect lots of discussion and have built time for this into the class schedule.

      The class will begin with a day of examining engines and engine management concepts and vocabulary in general.  It will continue with an in-depth look at specifics of the 89-93 S13 and B13 Nissan 4 cylinder vehicles which are the target of the Nismotronic product. (i.e. SR20DET and KA24 powered 240SX, SR20DE powered sentras)  The operation of a stock Nissan ECU will be explored in detail as a foundation for understanding the operation of the system.  Both MAF and speed density tuning with Nismotronic will be covered along with differences between tuning Nismotronic and tuning “pure” factory ECUs.

      The class will conclude with a hands-on look at tuning of (at least) two example cars, one high-horsepower blow-through-MAF car and one speed density conversion.  Tips, techniques and approaches for using the system to achieve results will be demonstrated on the dyno.

       

      Schedule of Events

      Day 1 (TBA) will focus on general theory of how engines work, how electronic engine management works and general approaches to calibration of engine management systems.  Chances are, if you’ve been tuning cars for five years you probably already know a lot of this stuff but it probably wouldn’t hurt you to sit through it again.  If you’re new to engine management, expect your brain to hurt.  The goal of day one is to help you understand how the many pieces of engines, electronics and sensors that you will be dealing with fit together – the big picture.  Most of this day will NOT deal with Nissan specific terms and methods.  At the end of the day, you should have a strong understanding of spark ignition internal combustion engines, how and why engines make power, be able to name and explain the function of sensors likely to be found on a fuel injected engine and understand the conditions needed for achieving specific goals such as fuel economy, power or keeping and engine in one piece.  If you’ve previously worked with other systems of engine management, you might look at what you already know in a new light.  We would really like you to attend this, even if you think you don’t need to.  If you really want to skip it, contact us before hand.

      Day 2 (TBA) will begin by focusing on “pure” Nissan engine management.  This is the foundation on which Nismotronic is built.  After lunch break, we will have a Nismotronic install fest to ensure everyone is up and running with the latest version of the software and drivers.  We will continue with a talk-through of the changes in Nismotronic compared to a “pure” Nissan ECU and then continue with a “walk-through” of a previous tune done with the software in order to demonstrate the use of logging and tuning.

      Day 3 (TBA) will focus on hands-on usage of Nismotronic.  We will be demonstrating non-trivial tunes with Nismotronic for both MAF and speed-density vehicles.  Datalogging, tuning and incorporating dyno feedback will be a part of the day’s work.  Students will be encouraged to try their hand at making runs, observing data and making targeted changes in order to achieve a result.

      Plan on 8-10 hours of being focused per day.  We’ll typically run on a 9ish-6ish kind of day depending on how things go.  (Local time is Eastern Standard Time – EST)

      There will be lunch, snacks and drinks provided.  At previous classes, we had an optional group dinner afterwards that worked out well.  Some of the best discussion ended up coming up over dinner, so we’ll probably try to do that again.

      We’ll try to have a good chunk of the curriculum up here on the support site prior to the class for you to review and prepare.

      Travel Information

      Carlisle, PA is home to many car events.  There are numerous Hotels in the area.  We will update this page with some suggestions.

      Other Class Opportunities

      Check out the support site for other opportunities to take a class on using Moates products.

    • Turbo Mopar 85-93
    • We don’t have a lot of experience with these vehicles but they have a decent community providing tools for tuning the factory ECMs.  Many of the ECMs can directly use 28 pin EPROMs like the SST27SF512 and BURN2 we sell and an Ostrich 2.0 for live tuning.  Other ECMs use 87C257 chips which require a “latch board” to use standard 28 pin chips like a SST27SF512 or 27C256 (or an Ostrich).  These latch boards are available from Meyer Tuned.  The Turbo Mopar EFI Tuning Forum is a good place to start for more information on tuning these vehicles.

    • Tutorial Videos
    • Please visit our Video Channel at www.youtube.com/craigmoates/ for a variety of content.
       
    • Typical Questions & Issues
    • Moates.net F.A.Q

      Last updated 2-03-06

       

      GM tuning Frequently asked questions

      You can use the ALDU1 and CABL2 together for both datalogging and reprogramming. Just get you a free trial version of TTS DataMaster and then get you a copy of TunerCat with the proper definition.

      Do I need an adapter to get the chip to fit in my TBI ECM?

      For chip swaps on your TBI computer, you’ll probably want to use the G2 adapter. Most folks use an S2 socket snapped into it along with the C1 chip. They’re pretty easy to install, or I can do it for you. The chip you’re looking at comes out of that little plastic holder. Squeeze it gently from the sides, and then use like a jeweler’s screwdriver to lift the legs away from the sides of the holder a little bit. It should snap out of the bottom. Worst case, you can cut the plastic support piece along the back of the chip, and it will come apart much easier. Then you can read the ‘stock’ chip using the Burn1. Key thing though is that to reprogram a chip, you’ll need to use a Flash chip like the C1, and you’ll want to use a G2 adapter to make fitment easy. They are 28 pin rather than 24 pin.

       


      ALDU1 Frequently asked questions

      I am using ALDU1 and CABL1 and I cannot get my PC or Laptop to connect to my ecm.

      When using it to connect to the 165, make sure the vertical switch (as you look at it to the right) is in the ‘up’ position. When working with the 730, have it in the middle position.

      – Under Windows Control Panel, make sure you have the USB/Serial device set up to COM3 or COM4.

      – Under TunerPro Tools/Preferences, make sure you have it set up as a ‘Max232/etc’ on the corresponding COM port.

      – Under TunerPro ALDL/Datalogging section, make sure you have the correct *.ads file selected. This will either be the 1227165_6E.ads or 1227730.ads file.

      What does the switch on the ALDU1 do?

      The switch on the back of the ALDU1 changes the resistance between pins A and B on the ALDL interface cable. The topmost position places 10k ohms between the pins. Some ECMs require this 10k resistance in order to connect to the ALDL datastream (some 1227165 are an example). The middle position opens the connection between A and B (infinite resistance). This is the “default” position. Most cars can be datalogged in this position. Cars that require 10k to connect can be switched to this position after connection. The bottom most position shorts the connection (0 ohms). Most GM ECMs dump trouble codes when pins A and B are shorted. This switch position makes doing so simple and convenient when a PC is not available.

      What do I need to do to use the winALDL program with ALDU1?

      • Set the baud rate to 4800 within the WinALDL program.
      • While looking at the ALDU1 box, set the vertical switch to your right, and switch it ‘up’ (10k mode).
      • Set the COM port selection in WinALDL to match what it set up to on the USB driver under the control panel.
      • Select the ECM type in WinALDL which matches your ECM.
      • Make sure the ALDU1 is connected to the laptop prior to starting the software.
      • Turn your key off, connect the ALDU1 to the car, and start the software.
      • Turn the car on, it should connect.

       


      Autoprom Frequently asked questions

      Does the USB AutoProm require a driver, and if so, where do I get it and how do I install it?

      The USB AutoProm does require a driver. You can download it from http://www.moates.net/. Instructions on installation can also be found there. Without the driver, the AutoProm will not function.

      Note that the serial version does not require any special drivers.

      Is there a users manual for the Autoprom?

      Yes, Its on the Moates.net website here.

      What does the vertical switch on the back of the Autoprom do?

      The vertical switch on the backplane of the AutoProm changes the resistance between pins A and B on the ALDL interface cable. The topmost position places 10k ohms between the pins. Some ECMs require this 10k resistance in order to connect to the ALDL datastream (1227165 is an example). The middle position opens the connection between A and B (infinite resistance). This is the “default” position. Most cars can be datalogged in this position. Cars that require 10k to connect can be switched to this position after connection. The bottom most position shorts the connection (0 ohms). Most GM ECMs dump trouble codes when pins A and B are shorted. This switch position makes doing so simple and convenient when a PC is not available.

      What does the horizontal switch on the back of the Autoprom do?

      The horizontal switch, called the bypass switch, switches whether the PC communicates with the AutoProm CPU or directly to the ALDL interface hardware. When the switch is towards the serial or USB port, the PC communicates with the AutoProm CPU. This mode is used for changing data in the emulation buffer, for acquiring A/D data, and for ALDL datalogging in “AutoProm” mode (TunerPro only). When the switch is switched away from the serial or USB port, the AutoProm is in bypass mode. This mode allows the PC to communicate directly with the car through the ALDL cable. This allows the AutoProm to function as a simple ALDL cable. Use this mode to communicate with your OBDI vehicle using most ALDL data acquisition software such as WinALDL, CarBytes, Datamaster, etc.

      What is the firewire connection on the rear of the AutoProm for?

      The firewire connection on the backplane of newer AutoProm units is used for connecting (via a special connector available from moates.net) the 3 channel A/D module.

      What chips can I burn and read with the AutoProm?

      The Serial and USB AutoProm can read the following:

      2732A, 27C128, 27C256, 27C512, 27SF512, 29C256, 29F040, Moates F2A Ford Adapter, Moates F2E EEC reader

      The Serial AutoProm can write to the following chips:

      29C256, 29F040, 27SF512*, Moates F2A Ford Adapter

      * USB AutoProm only

      Why does the USB version support writing 27SF512 chips, but the serial version does not?

      Because of the simplicity and size of the USB connector, there is more room on the hardware layout for the electronics necessary to write to 27SF512 chips. The serial version does not have enough room for the required components.

      What chips can I emulate using the AutoProm?

      The AutoProm can emulate virtually any chip up to 64MBit in size (64KB) with 28 pins or less.

      What are the 3 additional channels of analog to digital (A/D) conversion for and how can I make use of them?

      With the AutoProm, you can monitor and datalog up to 3 channels of analog data. This can be used to monitor external temperature sensors, voltage levels, etc. To make use of the this feature, you need the appropriate interface connector available from www.moates.net. Once connected, you can use TunerPro to monitor the data or datalog the data in the normal ALDL stream (see the TunerPro help documentation).

      I’ve hooked up the USB AutoProm to the computer, but the software cannot find or detect it.

      The USB AutoProm requires a driver to be installed. See the appropriate question in this FAQ for more information on finding and installing this driver.

      Emulation does not seem to work. The SES light flickers and/or the cooling fans come on when I turn the key on.

      There are a few things to try or check.

      1. Make sure you do not have a chip in the ZIF adapter. At no time other than reading or writing a PROM should you have a chip in the AutoProm ZIF.
      2. Make sure your checksum is correct or disabled if your ECM requires it. Checksums can be disabled on GM ECMs by uploading 0xAA to the Mask ID byte.
      3. Make sure the chip header is installed in your ECM correctly. Make sure pin 1 is oriented correctly and that all pins are making contact. This may require making adjustments to your ECM chip adapter.
      4. If you’re using a C3 ECM (7747, etc), make sure you’ve soldered in your chip adapter correctly. Make sure your car runs as expected from your stock (or known-good) chip.
      5. Make sure your emulation header cable is not too long or in a place where electrical interference could be an issue.

      After uploading my bin to the AutoProm successfully, verification fails.

      There are generally two causes for this: 1) You have a chip in the AutoProm ZIF, 2) Your USB cable is bad or inadequate. Try a different brand or type of USB cable.

      I can’t seem to read or write a chip. What am I doing wrong?

      Make sure the chip is properly oriented in the AutoProm ZIF. Pin 1 should be towards the back (connection) side of the AutoProm, and the chip should be all the way towards the front of the ZIF, such that any unused pins are between the chip and the ZIF handle.

      I can’t seem to connect to my ECM with the AutoProm.

      If your AutoProm is in bypass mode and you’re using TunerPro, make sure TunerPro is configured to use “Max232” as the adapter interface. If you’re using a USB AutoProm in bypass mode with WinALDL, make sure WinALDL is configured to use 4800 baud. There are a few ECMs that cannot be connected to un non-bypass mode. Please contact Craig or Mark for more information if you continue having difficulties connecting.

      Could tell me how to connect with the APU1/ALDU1 step by step?

      • Turn vehicle off.
      • Close all programs including TunerPro.
      • Connect the APU1 or ALDU1 to the USB port and the vehicle ALDL.
      • If using the APU1, set the horizontal switch to the ‘inside’ setting for use with TunerPro. Set it to the outside for use with WinALDL or DataMaster.
      • For 8192, if using 1227165 ECM, set vertical switch to ‘up’ position (looking at it with the vertical switch to your right).
      • For all other 8192, set it to the ‘middle’ position.
      • If you want to ‘flash your codes’ set it to the bottom position and turn the key on.
      • For 160 baud (older TBI, etc), set it to the ‘top’ position.
      • Open up your Windows Control Panel, under ‘System’ and ‘Hardware’ and ‘Device Manager’ under ‘Ports’. Find the USB Serial Port, and go to the Port Settings tab. Go to the Advanced button, and make sure the COM port setting is either COM3 or COM4. Set the latency to 1. If having connection issues, you might try a latency of 5. Once settings are applied, hit OK and close out all Control panel stuff. Keep in mind that this will be valid and ‘keep’ for the particular USB port you are plugged into for next time. If you plug into a different USB port you’ll need to do this again for that one.
      • Open un TunerPro, and go under the Tools/Preferences section. Go to the ALDL/Emulation tab. If using APU1 with the switch to the ‘inside’, select ‘AutoProm’ for datalogging device type. If using the ALDU1 or the APU1 with the switch ‘out’ then select ‘MAX232/etc’ as device type and specify the correct COM port assignment (remember this from the Windows Control Panel exercise, probably COM3 or COM4). Once set, hit apply or OK and close that window.
      • Go to the Tools/ALDL-Datalogging/Setup section of TunerPro, and ‘browse’ for the correct datalogging definition file (ADS file). You may need to download it from the TunerPro website. The name of the file should tell you if it’s the right one. Once selected, you’re ready to go almost.
      • Close TunerPro and open it back up. That’ll make sure all your options ‘stick’.
      • If using APU1 with the switch ‘in’, you should see a message at the bottom of the TunerPro window indicating “Connected: AutoProm blahblah” whereas if you have the switch ‘out’ or you’re using an ALDU1, you will see ‘Hardware Not Connected’ and that is OK.
      • Go back to the Tools/ALDL Datalogging/Setup option, and now turn your key on. Click on the ‘Connect to ECM’ button. It should connect. If not, then something isn’t correct or something is wrong. Could be corrupt binary, bad connection, hardware problem, or something else. Some of the older 165 (pre-89) have difficulty, and you may need to upgrade to the 89 (6E) code. Some of the SyTy/late-model TBI trucks/LT1 stuff has problems because of a ‘silence mode’ command requirement. This is being worked, and should be fixed soon.
      • Once connected (you’ll see the ‘connected’ indicator), you can monitor variables. Go to the Tools/ALDL/Datalogging menu, and you’ll see where you can show ‘Flags’, ‘Values’, ‘Dashboard’, ‘Traces’, all sorts of user-definable stuff. To choose values for your dashboard display, you can right-click and select something you want to show from a pulldown menu.
      • Now you’re up and running. Don’t forget: NEVER disconnect the APU1 or ALDU1 from the PC while the software is open! No damage will occur, but the PC side will hang up and get confused. So, always connect and disconnect your hardware when there is NO software open and running (safe rule of thumb

       

      Once you do all the stuff above, next time all you should need to do is:

      • Connect USB stuff
      • Connect ALDL stuff
      • Set switches
      • Start TunerPro
      • Turn key on
      • Connect and datalog
      • When finished, turn key off and close TunerPro session
      • Disconnect ALDL
      • Disconnect USB

       

      How do I make an ALDL data recording with Tuner Pro?

      For ALDL data acquisition the AutoProm has two modes: Passthrough and AutoProm. Passthrough mode is set by placing the horizontal switch on the backplane away from the USB connetor. In this mode, TunerPro must be set to MAX232, since the AutoProm, when set to this mode, is just like any other ALDL cable. To set it to AutoProm mode, place the horizontal switch towards the USB port. In this mode, TunerPro must be set to AutoProm mode. The purpose of passthrough mode is to allow the AutoProm to be used for gathering ALDL data using applications other than TunerPro. In this mode you cannot make changes to the emulation buffer in the AutoProm mode. In AutoProm mode (again, set on the AutoProm itself and in TunerPro’s settings), you can emulate and datalog at the same time.

      To record an ALDL data log, see the TunerPro help file, but here’s a summary:

      • Connect the AutoProm ALDL cable to your Vehicle
      • Set the AutoProm and TunerPro to the appropriate mode (see above explanation)
      • Connect to your ECM
      • Hit F4 to open the ALDL setup window
      • Click “Select Log File for Record/Play” and browse to a file to record to (or enter the name of a new file)
      • With TunerPro actively getting data from your ECM, hit the Record button
      • When done logging, hit the stop button
      • Hit the play button to play back the log you just recorded

       

      How do I emulate with the Autoprom and Tuner Pro?

      The TunerPro help file has a step-by-step outline of how to emulate. Here’s a an abridged overview:

      • Attach the AutoProm to your PC and to your Vehicle
      • Make sure the horizontal switch is towards the USB port on the AutoProm
      • Start TunerPro (note that TunerPro automatically detects the hardware)
      • Load your bin and bin definition into TunerPro
      • Upload the bin to the emulator (see the related menu or toolbar buttons)
      • Enable emulation (again, in the tools menu or on the toolbar)
      • Start your vehicle
      • Make changes to the bin
      • Hit “update” in the respective item editor after every change to update the emulator RAM with the new data.

       

      Note that you may need to disable the checksum in your bin. This is done by changing the mask ID byte to 0xAA. More information on that can be found in the various tuning forums, including the forum at www.thirdgen.org/techbb2 (DIY PROM forum).

       


      Ford tuning Frequently asked questions

      What do I need to start tuning a Ford?

      It really depends on what you want to do and how you want to do it. The F1 and F3 adapters are plugged into the J3 port. You cannot change anything with these while they are plugged into the J3 port, you have to unplug them and use the burn1 to write the modified bin file to the adapter. These adapters “override” the stock programming and allow you to change anything you want ,and get your “tune” exactly where you want it. To do this though you really need a way to datalog, and a Wideband O2 sensor is a great help as well.

      The F1 adapter is designed for use with most EEC-IV processors, it doesn’t work with the 4 cyl turbos, and it does not come with a chip. The new F3 works with both EEC-IV and EEC-V processors up to 2003, it is switchable between 2 memory locations , giving you multi-chip capability. It also comes with chip installed and with the optional F2A adapter, can be programmed without removing chip.

      You also need some software to be able to edit your bin files, the bin file is the binary code within your PCM. Both Tuner Pro and EEC Editor support Ford stuff and work well with Moates hardware. You will need to make sure there is software support for your particular application.

      Another way to tune is with a emulator, basically with this device you can make changes while the car is running, this greatly simplifies the tuning process. Currently Moates offers the Ostrich, which will interface with EEC IV and EEC V PCMs using the FORDEMU. Also the Autoprom will work with only EEC IV PCMs using the F1.

      I have a 2.3 Turbo (PC1, PE, PF2, PF3, PK, PK1,etc) what do you have for me?

      Typically folks have used the F2 adapter to override their stock EEC program via the J3 port. However, the F2 adapter is no longer available. The F1 adapter does something similar, but it doesn’t work with turbo type applications, only N/A EEC-IV (pre-96) stuff. So, I have the F3 and F4 adapters (single program and switchable). They will be made available soon. They will work with EEC-IV and EEC-V as well as the Turbo EEC-IV.

      The Burn1 is a chip programmer, and is used to program the J-3 adapters via the F2A. The F2A is merely an adapter to go from the BURN1 to a chip adapter such as the old F2 or F3/F4. The BURN1 can also be used in conjunction with the F2A adapter. This is being redesigned so that it can be used with the APU1, and will be renamed probably to just the FA. It is used for a couple of different purposes. First, it can be used in conjunction with the F2E to read the ‘stock’ content from the EEC-IV and EEC-V computers. Second, it can be used to read chip modules such as the F1, F2, F3, F4, and others such as the TwEECer. The binary from these exercises can be saved and edited offline. The BURN1/FA combo can also be used (as well as the APU1/FA combo) to program chip modules such as the F2, F3 and F4. This way, you go directly through the BURN1/APU1 interface via the accompanying software and USB interface. No need to remove the chip from the module.

      In all these cases, there is no desoldering involved. Just clean the contacts on the J3 port and stick the programmed adapter module (F3 or F4 in your case) in there.

      How do I know what bin file I need?

      You start by getting the catch code off of the processor (see image), this will be the .bin file name. This one would be a Z2D1.bin

       

      What is a J3 port?

      It’s the port on the back of your processor that the adapter plugs into (see pic).

       


      F1 J3 adapter Frequently asked questions

      Which way does the chip go into the socket on the adapter?

      The top of the socket on the F1 adapter has a notch in it, line it up with the notch on the chip facing the same way, the chip installed all the way at the bottom of the socket(see picture).

       


      F2/F3 J3 adapter Frequently asked questions

      What chip addressing do I use when programming a F2 or F3 for EEC-IV ?

      When programming for EEC-IV, you want to put a 56k binary from 032000-03FFFF.

      What chip addressing do I use when programming a F2 or F3 for EEC-V ?

      When programming for EEC-V, use the following addressing:

      BANK0: 002000-00FFFF

      BANK1: 012000-01FFFF

      BANK8: 022000-02FFFF

      BANK9: 032000-03FFFF

       


      F2E Frequently asked questions

      Does the F2E (EEC computer reading interface) use an external power supply ?

      No, its uses the USB port to power the PCM.

      Do I have to remove the PCM from the car to use the F2E ?

      No, it works either way, either on the bench or in the car.

      Is the F2E a stand-alone unit, will I need anything else to read the chip ?

      No, it is not a stand-alone unit, it is designed to work with the burn1 and F2A Ford programming adapter.

      How do I use the F2E ?

      Attach the F2A to the Burn1, then plug the cable that came with the F2E into the F2A, then the F2E to the cable, then plug it into a CLEAN J3 port (see pics below).

       

       

      What addressing do I use to pull out a bin from my EEC-V ?

      When pulling a bin from a EEC-V, use the following addressing:

      000000-03FFFF will pull out an entire 256k file with the banks at the following addressing:

      BANK0: 002000-00FFFF

      BANK1: 012000-01FFFF

      BANK8: 022000-02FFFF

      BANK9: 032000-03FFFF

       


      burn1 Frequently asked questions

      Which way does the chip go in to the socket?

      The top of the socket on the burn1 is the handle, line it up with the notch on the chip facing the same way, the chip installed all the way at the bottom of the socket(see picture).

      My software doesn’t see the burn1

      Follow the documentation on setting up a com port and installing the USB drivers in the documentation section on the Moates.net web site here.

       


      Wideband F.A.Q

      Can I use a Wideband O2 sensor in my factory harness?

      The wideband O2 sensor itself looks much like a standard O2 sensor. It does in fact install similarly, with the same threads. However, it requires a separate control box. It is a heated sensor which requires special heating rates and such, and can’t be controlled straight off of a factory harness. Instead, what you do is ‘add’ it to your exhaust, keeping the stock O2 sensor in place and adding the wideband sensor at another point in the exhaust system by cutting a hole and welding in a bung. Then for the control box, you use either the LC1 or the LM1. For the LC1, you can monitor it via the laptop and what-not, and for the LM1, it has a local readout which you can view. Both the LM1 and LC1 have a ‘serial’ output which can be used to either hook up to a PC for logging or to a gauge like the XD1.

      As a more advanced topic, if you’d like to ‘replace’ your factory O2 sensor with a wideband unit, you can use what is called the ‘simulated narrowband output’ of a unit like the LC1. To do this, you need to splice into your existing harness slightly and program the LC1 to match. The LC1 has two programmable analog outputs, one of which can be used to ‘feed’ the factory ECU.

      In any case, the wideband controller (LM1 or LC1) is a critical part which is needed.

       


      Tunerpro F.A.Q

      Where do I find support for TunerPro software?

      At the TunerPro website http://tunerpro.markmansur.com/, Mark has a nice F.A.Q posted there.

       


      EEC Editor F.A.Q

      Where do I find support for EEC Editor software?

      On the EEC editor mailing list http://groups.yahoo.com/group/eeceditor/.

      Or check this web page to D/L the software and def files: EEC Editor


      Moates.net Software F.A.Q

      Where can I find information on using the Flash & Burn Software for the Burn1?

      This information can be found in the Burn1 Use document in the Documentation section of the Moates.net web site.

      Where can I find information on Chip addressing?

      This information can be found in the Using offsets when programming chips document in the Documentation section of the Moates.net web site.

      What chip addressing do I use when using the F2 in a EEC-IV ?

      When programming for EEC-IV, you want to put a 56k binary from 032000-03FFFF.

      Can the firmware of my Moates.net device be updated?

      There are 3 devices which can be reflashed in terms of firmware: APU1, BURN1, and Ostrich.

      Whatever you do, do NOT reflash your unit with an update that is designed for another! For instance, don’t reflash your AutoProm with a Flash&Burn firmware. Otherwise, you’ll be sending it back to me. I don’t know how to state this more explicitly. Be careful and deliberate, and DON’T reflash with the wrong firmware! Step by step instructions are below:

      1. Download the Firmware updater program and the correct firmware for your application from Moates.net, i.e AP_2_8_A.zip is for the autoprom, notice the “AP” at the beginning of the file.
      2. Open up the Firmware updater program, you should see a window like below:
      3. Click on the open file button, browse to the directory you downloaded the firmware and select it.
      4. Make sure you have the correct firmware loaded before this step! Now click update, you should see this screen when update is done:
    • Unsupported Honda Setups
    • A Word of Warning

      This article was accurate as of the time it was written (2009) but things may have changed.  At Moates.net, we rely on information from our users about what works and what doesn’t work.  Please investigate on PGMFI.org and elsewhere to confirm the information you find here!  Things may have changed and we may not be in the loop.

      Unsupported Vehicles

      • V6 Hondas have very limited hardware and software support
      • K-series Hondas have no support from hardware we make at this time
      • 2001+ non-K series Hondas (D17, R18, etc.) have no support from hardware we make at this time
      • Automatic Hondas have very limited support. Very little has been done with automatic transmission controls and many tuning packages eliminate the code used to control auto transmissions.

      Unsupported ECUs

      • Anything pre-1988 probably lacks spark control. There isn’t much if anything available software-wise for these ECUs. You might find 24 or 28 pin EPROMs inside, you might not. Your mileage may vary.
      • 1988-1991 DPFI (Dual Point Fuel Injection – Throttle Body Injection) ECUs have zero software support. 90-91 models can be chipped like an OBD1 ECU hardware-wise, but that doesn’t solve the software issue.
      • 1988-1989 Civic Si (PM6) and 1988-1991 CRX HF ECU (PM8) require a daughterboard we do not sell in order to be chipped. Use a 90-91 ECU on these model years.
      • 1992-1995 JDM GSR Automatic ECUs (hardware design makes chipping them impossible. Auto JDM P30s are ok)
      • 1996-2001 ECUs (OBD II – hardware design makes chipping very difficult to impossible, requires surface mount soldering tools and chips no longer available on the market.)
      • Prelude ECUs (trivially chippable, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
      • V6 ECUs from Legend (early models can be trivially chipped, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
      • NSX ECUs (early models can be trivially chipped, but unless you are going to develop the software support, it doesn’t currently exist)
      • Basically any ECU other than an Integra or Civic ECU is not well-supported

      This information was last updated 2/4/09 by Dave Blundell.

    • USB Driver and BURN2 Troubleshooting
    • The following is something which can be applied to anyone trying to troubleshoot a BURN1, BURN2, or APU1 with respect to chip programming. It is also useful to get the USB device drivers correctly configured.

      It is unlikely that your chip or burner has failed, such events are actually quite rare. All devices are fully tested for all functionality prior to shipment.

      We have many folks that send their units back to us, but very few that actually exhibit failure during bench testing once they arrive.

      However, it is possible that something is wrong with your procedures.

      Please utilize the following test matrix. This should take about 5 minutes:

      1) Disconnect all USB devices, close all software, and re-install the CDM_Setup.exe file from here:
      http://osc.moates.net/zips/CDM_Setup.exe

      2) Re-connect the Moates device, and allow the drivers to associate with it. Wait about 30 seconds.

      3a) Go into the Windows Device Manager, and look under 'Ports(COM/LPT)'. If there is a 'USB Serial Port' listed, right-click on it and select 'Properties'. If not, carry out step '3b' on this list first.

      3b) If you saw the 'USB Serial Port' from step (3a) then go directly to Step 4. If not, then expand your 'Universal Serial Bus controllers' section, and right-click on the 'USB Serial Converter'. Go to the 'Advanced' tab, and check the box indicated as 'Load VCP'. Then hit 'OK', unplug the device, and plug it back in. You should then be able to carry out (3a) successfully.

      4) Go to the 'Port Settings' tab and then click the 'Advanced' button. Change the COM port setting on the pull-down to COM4, COM5, or COM6, regardless of 'in use' warnings. Accept any warnings. If you are running multiple devices (for instance an Ostrich and BURN2), make sure you assign different COM port numbers to each of them. But, make sure your COM port assignments are in the range of COM4-COM8. Also, while you're on this page, change your 'Latency timer' to 1mS via pulldown. Click OK to apply all settings and close all Windows Control Panel sub-windows. If you like, you can unplug and replug the USB cable to the device to verify that it appears in the list with the new settings.

      5) Download and install the latest version of Flash-n-Burn from here:
      http://tunerpro.net/download/SetupFlashBurn.exe
      Note: If you're working with an APU1, check the back and make sure the horizontal switches are placed in the 'outboard' position, away from the USB connection.

      6) Download a 64k 'test' bin from here:
      http://osc.moates.net/zips/00-512-TEST.zip
      Unzip it, and open the FlashBurn software.

      7) Within the FlashBurn software, make sure the chip burner is recognized in the white dialog window. Select 27SF512 on the top left, and load the 64k 'test' file to the buffer. Make sure that the file size displayed in the dialog window is 65,536 bytes. If you're loading a 32k file (like for Hondas etc), make sure the file size is 32,768 exactly.

      8) The addressing should auto-select on the top right, but make sure it is correct. Chip addressing should be 000000-00FFFF. Buffer addressing should also be 000000-00FFFF. If you are loading a 32k file rather than the test file, make sure chip addressing is 008000-00FFFF and buffer addressing is 000000-007FFF.

      9) Insert the chip into the socket, with the notch (pin 1) facing up toward the ZIF handle and USB cable. Make sure the chip is positioned furthest away from the handle and USB, such that the 4 empty slots are closest to the handle.

      10) Select 'erase chip' and 'blank check'. Verify that these steps were successful. Look up again at you addressing, and make sure it matches what is specified in step (8).

      11) Select 'program chip' and then 'verify chip'. Make sure you have success in the dialog box.

      At this point, if everything checks out, you have illustrated that your chip and programmer are working correctly. If any of these steps fail, please send us a screen capture of the part of the process which failed, and we'll do what we can to help you troubleshoot further.

      Other problems can come from corrupt, incorrectly sized, or mismatched binaries for target application, incorrect chip and buffer addressing for a given file size, or incorrect COM port settings within the client software (such as Crome, etc).

      For the burner itself, typical 'next step' troubleshooting would include taking apart the enclosure, blowing it out with compressed air to remove any metallic dust that might have accumulated, gently prying loose the ZIF socket to make sure there are no bent pins underneath where it snaps in, trying a different USB cable, trying a different chip, or trying a different PC or USB port.

      Certainly if there is a true hardware failure, we'll be glad to take care of it at no cost, but we doubt you want to spend time shipping back and forth if there isn't a real hardware fault.
       
    • USB Driver Installation
    • USB Drivers are needed for almost all products.  You only need one driver package for ALL Moates USB products.  One for all and all for one?

      As a rule of thumb, the WHQL drivers which will be downloaded automatically will work fine.  However, it is recommended that you use the drivers from our site with Win98, WinXP and Vista.  Automatic drivers will generally work fine for Win7 but there are certain known good drivers.  We specifically recommend the latest drivers available from FTDI for machines running Windows 8, 8.1, Win10 or newer.

      Specifically recommended driver versions:

      • Windows 98/ME drivers can be downloaded by clicking here.
      • Windows 2000/XP/Vista drivers can be downloaded by clicking here.
      • There is a Vista Specific Guide that may be helpful to those running Vista.  Vista is also known to work well with the 2.08.x.x series of drivers in addition to the drivers listed above.
      • Windows 7 is known to be stable with the 2.08.24 driver (available under “no longer supported drivers”) as well as the 2.12.x.x series (latest at time of writing) which are both available here.  In some cases, the 2.08 series works better than 2.12 series, your mileage may vary.  Use of drivers older than the 2.08 series is not recommended!
      • 8 and 8.1 are known to be stable with the 2.08.24 driver (available under “no longer supported drivers”) as well as the 2.12.x.x series (latest at time of writing) which are both available here.  In some cases, the 2.08 series works better than 2.12 series, your mileage may vary.  Use of drivers older than the 2.08 series is not recommended!
      • Windows 10 and newer machines are highly recommended to use the latest and greatest VCP drivers available directly from the USB chip’s manufacturer here. (at time of writing: 2.12.28.0)  In rare cases, the 2.08.24 driver (available under “no longer supported drivers”) can work better but this is NOT recommended.  Use of drivers older than the 2.08 series is known to cause issues!

      If you have trouble, start with this troubleshooting guide.

      If you have trouble, you may also want to look at FTDI’s Installation Guides for your OS.

    • USB Drivers – FTCLEAN
    • FTDI provide a utility called “FTCLEAN” that forcibly removes drivers from your computer.  WARNING: THIS WILL BREAK ALL DEVICES THAT USE FTDI DRIVERS, NOT JUST MOATES HARDWARE. Do not attempt this procedure unless reloading the drivers has failed to restore your devices to full functionality.  You should not be thinking about doing this unless you have followed all the steps in USB Troubleshooting 101 and USB Driver Installation Again, this is a procedure to save as a LAST RESORT.  WARNING WARNING WARNING!

      With that out of the way, you’re looking at this page because your USB drivers are very broken.  You have devices in Device Manager with yellow exclamation marks that cannot load, cannot start or just plain don’t work.  This procedure will forcibly remove everything FTDI related and allow you to start over with a clean slate.

      1. Step one: download FTCLEAN from FTDI’s website – link
      2. Step two: unzip the file into a directory on your computer.
      3. Step three: run FTCLEAN.EXE
      4. Step four: click “Clean system” then click Yes to confirm
      5. Step five: REINSTALL FTDI DRIVERS!!!  You should be starting from scratch.
    • VTEC Conversion
    • This page is here to add VTEC capability to your otherwise non-VTEC ECU.

      The reason we are able to do this, is because when Honda designed their ECUs, the boards for the P05, P06, P28, etc were basically all identical. For the ECUs like the P05 and P06 that did not require VTEC, the components that are used for VTEC functionality were simply not installed.

      Thanks to the guidance of the forums on PGMFI.org, we were able to collect these missing components, organize them into kits and sell them to you.

      You can convert the following ECUs to VTEC:

      • P05
      • P06
      • P75

      The first step in the process is to identify the board in your ECU. In these ECUs, the only factors that affect board revision is the time that the ECU was produce. Meaning that just because you have a P06 doesn’t mean you’ll necessarily have a particular board.

      First, identify your ECU to find out what board you have.

      It will be one of the following. Clicking these will bring you to their respective page on our online store.

      Your kit will come with a handful of components as well as a card with pictures that indicates the place to install the components. Sometimes this isn’t enough. Here is a better picture:

      1720 Conversion

      1720: VTEC Conversion

      1720: VTEC Conversion

    • What Hardware do I Need to Get Started?
    • What Hardware Do I Need to Get Started?

      This is one of the most frequent questions we see in our Moates.net support inbox. The answer, of course, depends highly on a few factors:

      • What make, model, and year of vehicle?
      • What Engine is in it (e.g. TPI, TBI)?
      • What ECM or PCM is in it?
      • What do you want to do (burn chips, emulate, datalog, or all three)?

      The last question above is probably the most relevant in terms of making a decision regarding what to buy. Many people just becoming interested in EFI (electronic fuel injection) tuning don't have a clear picture of the basic tuning hardware categories. We're going to answer this question for each vehicle make Moates.net supports.

      General Motors (Chevrolet, Pontiac, Buick, Olds, GMC)

      Datalogging

      The basic feedback mechanism for determining what and how much to tune is datalogging. A datalogging interface is a piece of electronics that translates the signals from your vehicle's computer into data that your laptop or PC can read.

      Datalogging allows you to monitor and record (depending on the software you choose to use) real-time vehicle and engine parameters, such as RPM, speed, fuel trim, spark position, etc. This data is pretty much required in order to have a chance at successfully tuning.

      Moates.net offers datalogging interfaces for GM OBDI ('85-'95 vehicles) and Honda.

      Chip Burning

      The least expensive tool for EFI tuning is the chip burner. The disadvantage to chip burning is iteration time during the burning process. Chips need to be burned, installed, and the results checked until a desired tune is achieved.

      For most applications that accept chips, Moates.net offers the BURN1 (Flash & Burn) and 27SF512 EEPROMs.

      Emulation

      A more convenient alternative to burning chips during the tuning process is emulation. An emulator is a special piece of hardware that emulates a chip from the ECM's perspective, but that the PC can talk to directly. This enables changes to be made in real-time, while the engine is running. This greatly reduces the time necessary to achieve the desired tune.

      Moates.net offers 2 emulators, the Ostrich 2 and the AutoProm.

      All Three?!

      What if you want to do all three? If you're a GM owner and your vehicle accepts chips, the AutoProm can do all three - emulate, burn chips, and datalog. It also includes a license for TunerPro RT, which works with nearly all GM OBDI vehicles, EEPROMs to get you started (27SF512), and a GM OBDI cable.

      Adapters

      In order to plug in a new chip, as well as to interface the emulator chip header, you'll need an adapter for your car's computer. If you buy an emulator or chip burner, you'll also need an adapter. Some adapters, like the G2, are solder-in, while others, like the G1 and G3, can be easily removed and moved to another vehicle.

      If your vehicle uses a calpak (a.k.a. memcal) and you wish to read the stock chip with the BURN1 (or any burner/reader), then you'll need an HDR1. Use of the HDR1 is optional, since most stock binaries are available on the Internet. Also note that if your vehicle uses a calpak, your vehicle is compatible with both the G1 and G3 adapters (the G3 is a switching version of the G1).

      The GM Compatibility Table

      This table is abbreviated. If you don't see your application here, please email us.

      Vehicle Identification
      Chip Burning
      Adapters
      Emulation
      All-in-One

      Datalogging
      Year & Model
      ECM/PCM Part #
      86-89 Firebird, Trans Am, Camaro, Corvette TPI
      1227165
      X
      X
      X
      X
      -
      -
      X
      X
      X
      X
      -
      90-92 Firebird, Trans Am, Camaro, Corvette TPI
      1227730
      X
      X
      X
      X
      -
      -
      X
      X
      X
      X
      -
      86-93 TBI
      1227747 | 1228747
      X
      X
      -
      -
      X
      -
      X*
      X
      X
      X
      -
      94-95 Corvette, Impala LT1
      16181333 | 16188051
      -
      -
      -
      -
      -
      -
      -
      X
      X
      X '94
      X '95
      92-93 Corvette LT1
      16159278
      X
      X
      X
      X
      -
      -
      X
      X
      X
      X
      -
      86-87 Buick Turbo, 89 Turbo Trans Am
      1227148
      X
      X
      -
      -
      -
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      -
      91-93 Syclone/Typhoon
      1227749
      X
      X
      X
      X
      -
      -
      X
      X
      X
      X
      -

      * Socket Booster (S_BOOSTER) required for Ostrich 2 emulation and TBI ECMs

      An example answer to the question, "What do I need to get started," assuming the customer owns an '87 Firebird TPI

      The table above shows what Moates.net hardware is compatible with this vehicle. The cheapest route is to get a G1 adapter, BURN1, and a couple 27SF512s. You'll absolutely need an ALDL interface, so go for the ALDU1 + CABL1 combo. If you plan on doing a lot of tuning, an emulator is a wise, but optional, choice (Ostrich 2). You can just go with the emulator and avoid the BURN1 and 27SF512s altogether (the vehicle can run on the emulator full-time), but getting a chip burner is often a good idea so that you can burn a backup chip (backup chips are highly recommended). Remember, if you plan to do anything more than datalog, you'll need an adapter regardless of whether you choose emulation or chip burning.

      If you plan on doing a lot of tuning, especially if you run a shop or work on a lot of friends' cars, then you can get an APU1 and a G1 and be done with it. That will include everything you need to tune the majority of GM OBDI vehicles.

      Ford

      Datalogging

      Moates.net does not offer any datalogging products for Ford at this time. Commercially available scanners can be used to gather real-time engine parameters.

      Chip Burning & Adapters

      Ford works a bit differently than GM in that it doesn't use EPROMs. To interface with your Ford vehicle, you need at least 3 pieces of hardware: F3, F2A, and BURN1. If you wish to read your stock binary from the computer (i.e. if it doesn't exist on the Internet in the various libraries), then you'll also need the F2E in addition.

      Emulation

      If you wish to make realtime changes using an emulator such as the Ostrich 2, you'll need a FORDEMU in addition to the hardware specified above in "Chip Burning"

      Honda

      Vehicle Identification

      Chip Burning
      Adapters
      Emulation

      Datalogging
      Year & Model
      ECM Part #
      1992-1995 Civic
      P05 | P06 | P08 | P28
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      1992-1995 Civic
      P05 | P06 | P08 | P28
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      1995 Del Sol VTEC
      P30
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      1992-1993 Integra GS-R
      P61
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      1994-1995 Integra GS-R
      P72
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      1992-1995 Integra RS/LS/GS/SE
      PR4 | P75
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      Chippable OBD-0 ECUs
      PW0 | PR3 | PM6
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X
      X

      To be continued...

      MJM October 5, 2007

    • Who uses our gear?
    • This page is being created so we have a place to keep track of all the people who are using our gear for various applications.  If you would like to be added or removed from here, please email support@moates.net or leave a comment.  Hit control-F to find keywords on this page as eventually we hope this grows to a very large list!

      ECU Connections forum – mostly Bosch Motronic stuff.

      DS-MAP – MAP sensor conversion for DSM ECUs, supports Ostrich

      TunerPro RT – general purpose ROM editor that supports APU1, Ostrich, ALDU1 and most of our gear.  Useful for Nissan, Ford, GM, DSM, some Bosch Motronic (BMW, Porsche, VW, etc.) among others. (we sell this)

      ThirdGen.org – forum dedicated to the 3rd gen camaro/firebird with a great Tuning section!

      EFI Live – Supports our RoadRunner Emulator for OBD2 GM vehicles (we sell this)

      Binary Editor – Supports our QuarterHorse emulator for 86-04 Ford vehicles (we sell this)

      EEC Editor – Supports our QuarterHorse emulator for 86-04 Ford vehicles (we sell this)

      TunerCat – supports APU1, ALDU1, Ostrich, etc. for OBD1 GM vehicles

      Neptune – supports Demon, Ostrich, BURN2,  etc.  The premiere solution for tuning 92-01 distributor Hondas (we sell this)

      eCtune – supports Demon, Ostrich, BURN2, Hondalog, etc.  Another great 92-01 distributor Honda solution

      Crome – supports Demon, Ostrich, BURN2, Hondalog, etc.  an older and poorly maintained 92-01 distributor Honda solution

      TurboEdit – supports Ostrich, Hondalog.  an old and finicky software package for 88-91 distributed Hondas

      BRE – supports Ostrich, Hondalog.  an old and finicky software package primarily aimed at 89-91 Vtec hondas

      Pgmfi.ORG – Home of the DIY Honda community.  Birthplace of CROME, TurboEdit, BRE and loosely affiliated with other softwares.  Still a great resource for Honda ECU tuning.

      Nistune – supports Ostrich, dual Ostrich.  Nissan ROM tuning software, dealer version works with our hardware.  Programs made with Nistune work with our Nissan 2Chip adapter.

      Tuning Porsche 944 turbo vehicles using TunerPro, Ostrich, SocketBooster (thanks Joshua)

      Turbo Mopars using Ostrich2

      RhinoTuning using Ostrich2 / BURN2/ etc. for tuning Suzuki Swift pre-OBD2 vehicles

      Nissan Data Voice uses the Ostrich2 for realtime tuning for OBD1 Nissan vehicles

    • WinALDL Software
    • WinALDL is software to datalog on GM vehicles that use the old 160 baud rate.  This includes but is not limited to vehicles using a 1227747 and 1227165 ECM.  Most older TBI GM computers will speak this protocol.  WinALDL does NOT speak to newer GM OBD1 vehicles that use 8192 baud communication.

      WinALDL is available from http://winaldl.joby.se/

      WinALDL was written several years ago.  It will work best on Windows XP or older operating systems, if available.  You may need to use a VM or Windows XP compatibility mode on newer Windows7 systems in order for it to run 100% properly.

      WinALDL will work with both our ALDU1 and AutoProm.

      Setup

      There are a few setup tasks that need to be performed.

      • Ensure that your ALDU1 or AutoProm is assigned a COM port between 1 and 4.  Make sure you choose a port that does not conflict with system resources.  (see USB guide)
      • If you are using the AutoProm, ensure that it is set to pass-through *NOT* AutoProm mode. (see AutoProm troubleshooting guide)
      • On most 160 baud applications, you will need to set the switch to 10k mode on your AutoProm or ALDU1
      • Set the COM port selection in WinALDL to match what it set up to on the USB driver under the control panel.
      • Set the baud rate to 4800 within the WinALDL program.
      • Select the ECM type in WinALDL which matches your ECM.
      • Make sure the ALDU1 is connected to the laptop prior to starting the software.
      • Turn your key off, connect the ALDU1 to the car, and start the software.
      • Turn the car on, it should connect.
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